Defender Heaters

[David]

Morning all
With winter approaching, I want to make a concerted effort to get my heaters working better in my 1996 110 Defender Tdi.

The cooling system is in good condition but there does not seem to be too much heat coming out of the vents. Does anybody have any tips for getting a bit more heat into the cabin?

Thanks in advance

David

[rainman]

Hi David,

Probably the first thing to check is that the flaps in the heater box are moving as they should. Sometimes the outer cables can slip through the clamps on the heater box and then the flap won't move it's full travel. From memory the cable (and therefore lever) on the top of the box controls a flap which directs the incoming air either around the matrix or through it. Disconnect the inner cable and move the lever by hand to make sure it feels like it's moving full travel. Perhaps mark or take note of the lever position at either end of the travel and then reconnect the cable and adjust to the same limits.

Another possibility is that your matrix is blocked (or maybe the hoses running to it), but I think they are more prone to leaking than blocking. If this is the case, or you can't work out if the flap/flaps are operating correctly you might have to pull the whole box out and open it up to have a look inside. It's a very simple, self explanatory process, but allow about two hours.

A new matrix will cost you about $130 here or GBP35 + freight from the UK.

James.

[landy]

Hi David.

I agree with all above but have just replaced the heater unit complete on mine. If yours has A/C allow time to remove the under dash evaporator unit to get at the two bolts at the back of the foot well. The bracket that holds on to the A/C unit is too long and I couldn't undo the bolts. And of course allow $100 or so to re-gas the system.

i have a spare heater matrix in good nick if you want it.

Nino

[David]

Thanks Niño mine is not air conditioned so it could be an easier job but I will check all of the flaps and their operation in the first instance and see how that goes. If it is not successful then I will contact you again about the heater matrix.
Regards
David

[camel_landy]

Agree with other comments.

Also... Reach under the heater box, grab the rubber bung and rip it out! Instead of letting water drain, it often just silts up and then clogs everything else up.

M

[Bushie]

Defenders have heaters :confused::confused::confused::confused:

Martyn

[TimNZ]

Defenders have heaters :confused::confused::confused::confused:

Martyn

Yes, all Defenders have radiant heaters in the form of the transmission tunnel. Some even have additional fan forced units.

Cheers,

Tim

[Loubrey]

Defenders have heaters :confused::confused::confused::confused:

Martyn


:D:D:D

Back in the UK SWMBO used the 90 to drive 3 miles to work and the only way she would do this in winter was for me to "pre-heat" the cab with a portable 240v fan heater before I left for work! Extension cord through the back door and 10 minutes on full heat to de-ice the inside and outside of the windscreen! :D

[manic]

I recently went all the way with mine.

After disconnecting hoses, and undoing 3 or four bolts the heater box wiggles out without too much trouble. I drilled out the rivets and peeled back the lid (maybe not required on newer verions), cleaned out all the innards and put in a fresh heater matrix. The flaps usually have some foam on each side to help them seal when shut, this had all perished so stuck some fresh stuff on. The seal between bulkhead and heater box had also badly perished so changed that along with the one that mates to the wing intake. Put it all back in and set the cable controls to shut the vent flaps hard. oh and I silicon sealed the seams of the box also where I could feel air leaks.

Toasty as can be and much stronger flow through.

[Jojo]

Australian winter and heating required??? C'mon, don't be sissies, mates! And then, in a Defender???
True, check all that has been said but remember that even if everything is working alright the output is rather, well, ineffective, especially if you take into account all the options for the heat to escape again out of the cab.
Where I live it can get really chilly in winter and any possible heater effect will be offset by the ambient temperature from around -5°C and below. Then, even inside the vehicle, only gloves and a woolly hat will make driving at least acceptable, but by no means comfortable. And I only have a CC, owners of a STW will often add a fuel-powered heater or hanging a curtain behind the front seats to preserve some warmth.
Sissy that I am, I have heated seats (front only, so the kids have to wear some extra jumpers :p), but without my better half would probably refuse to get inside even at moderate (for us, that is) temperatures.
There also is an "Arctic Package" available from LR, consisting of some radiators for the rear of the truck and pipe work to connect them to the cooling system. But don't worry about this in Oz, not even down there in Tassie it would make sense.
Now it's spring time here and, yes, it's snowing...:mad:
Cheers

[JamesH]

I have a strange issue with my heater; it won't work unless I put the (non working) fan on full (lever all the way down). It puts out lovely warm air but without a fan, not in the amounts needed. The car has been rebuilt after a prang I had and I guess the people who put it back together got something mixed up in there.


The fan died after huge rain storm years ago when I had the flaps open. No it's not the fuse alas, water must have got right in and killed the fan motor. The car has airconditioning and Ive heard it's a major job the pull the aircon out get at the heater fan and workings and replace whatever bits are stuffed (ive heard the fans are exxy)

One thing I can say to those who want to increase the amount of air coming through the vents, those bonnet scoop thingies you put over the intake on the from wing make little difference.

[landy]

James

It was the fan that died in mine too. I got a new fan from paddocks in the UK delivered for less than I was quoted for a second hand unit here.
The reason that you get heat when you operate the fan slider is because there is a cable attached from the slider to the heater flap. That's normal. You bleed in the warm air first then force it with low or high speed fan. Removing the A/C was a bit fiddily but not to much trouble. It's a one man job but cost $100 to regas and a couple of bucks for new seals.
I fitted a new heater box that I was given and agree with above on the difference the internal foam makes on sealing the heater unit. It's working really well now. Just need some cold weather!!!!

Cheers Nino