Replacing Window Glass

[geodon]

I'm starting this now.

I have new door tops but need to remove most of the glass. This is just a bit scary due to the state of the original door tops:


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1444.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1445.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1446.jpg

What's the best way to remove the old glass from doors in this state?

I have 2 spare fixed panes:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1447.jpg

I was going to use clear Sikaflex silicone to fix them in. Anything better?

I plan to attach the Bailey channel with stainless self drill screws.

Do I put the channel in then the glass via the "lift & drop in" method?

[JDNSW]

I'm starting this now.

I have new door tops but need to remove most of the glass. This is just a bit scary due to the state of the original door tops:


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1444.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1445.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1446.jpg

What's the best way to remove the old glass from doors in this state?

I have 2 spare fixed panes:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1447.jpg

I was going to use clear Sikaflex silicone to fix them in. Anything better?

I plan to attach the Bailey channel with stainless self drill screws.

Do I put the channel in then the glass via the "lift & drop in" method?

The fixed glass is retained using the bottom bailey channel, plus two alloy strips. I would use the original sealant to bed it - makes it easier to replace if necessary.

Then fit the upper bailey channel, remove it, then refit it sort of hinging the sliding glass into place with it.

Don't forget to make/line up the hole for the window lock before fitting the bottom channel. Note that the top channel has a rubber block with a S/T screw through it at the front end to act as a stop and prevent rattles. There should be a seal on the front of the sliding glass, but its absence is not critical. Similarly, there should be a bit of glass glued to the inside to move it by, again not too critical.

Before finalising the position of the fixed glass, ensure the back edge is vertical and overlaps the sliding glass.



Finally, fit the back bit of bailey channel. Note there are three spacers behind the fixed glass.
Hope this helps,

John

PS Don't forget to do the final painting before finally fitting glass

[The ho har's]

as above....

try window frame without glass in door top first to make sure it lines up with windscreen etc.

Frame can be adjusted before glass is fitted/glued by tapping it gently on the diagonial corner.

Sikaflex bonds better but mastic is easier to clean out if you need to replace glass, both messy to clean up.

Allow overnight to dry.

removing glass.....remove all screws in top bailey channel then the glass and channel should fall to the inside of the window.


Take note where all the aluminum packers/shims come from.


super glue will glue the little glass handle on:D

Dictated by hh

Mrs hh:angel:

[chazza]

I have just done this and it is rather straight-forward; the only hassle for me was that on one door the screw heads had rusted so badly that they had to be ground off, to get the bailey channel out.

As the others have said use windscreen sealant rather than Sikaflex,

Cheers Charlie

[Ozdunc]

Don't want to hijack, but it seems sort of relevant here.
I've got a station wagon top for Bill with all the glass, but no rubbers.
Are rubbers still available, or is it just a matter of heading down to Clark's to get some generic stuff?

Cheers

[JDNSW]

Don't want to hijack, but it seems sort of relevant here.
I've got a station wagon top for Bill with all the glass, but no rubbers.
Are rubbers still available, or is it just a matter of heading down to Clark's to get some generic stuff?

Cheers

Rubbers are still available, if you are talking about window fitting (some mouldings are hard to get, but not for glass), and should be available from any of the usual suppliers. But it is likely that most will be available from Clark Rubber as well, although you will have to go armed with a sample and lengths.

John

[Ozdunc]

A sample you say? Unfortunately I have lots of glass and lots of aluminium but no rubber. Actually no rubber anywhere. Door surrounds, windows, nothing.

Ooh tell a lie, I do have the channels for the glass in the door tops.

Anyone have a part number I can chase with? SWB, side windows, either side of the door and the lift up top tail gate.

Thanks

[JDNSW]

If you don't already have the 'Rave CD' from the AULRO shop, might I suggest you get it, I believe it includes a parts book.

However, if you phone or visit any of the usual suppliers (non-dealer Landrover specialists, e.g. Land Vehicle Spares in Sydney) they should be able to supply given a description of the vehicle and which rubber you need, without needing a part number.

John

[chazza]

I bought all of my seals from here Land Rover Parts | Range Rover Spares & Accessories | Paddock (http://www.paddockspares.com/).

Get yourself a parts book, because some of ones available are not listed on their website,

Cheers Charlie

[Ozdunc]

Cheers fellas.
That Rave CD sounds like a handy bit o kit.

[geodon]

The rear window gave me some grief.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1286.jpg
One of the catches for the sliding glass was well & truly rusted in.
My 1st reaction was to weld a nut onto the countersunk screw but I was worried the glass might crack under the heat so U drilled off the head.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1287.jpg
Then I welded the nut onto the stump. The heat also served to loosen the thread and I was able to save the clasp.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1288.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1289.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1290.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1291.jpg
Another problem was one of the detent balls/plungers was stuck. In a fit of stupidity I tapped it to loosen it & only drove it deeper and completely inaccessible. Desperate measure were required & I gambled on the MIG by putting a blob of weld on the steel ball knowing the weld would not stick to the diecast aluminium.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1292.jpg

This gave me someting I could grab with vice grips & pull it out. Then a sharp blow with a cold chisel split the blob off. Damage to the casting was very minor & not seen once assembled.

[geodon]

(That's queer. I thought I had posted about this but I can't see lt.)

The mounting of these locks has me perplexed. There is a rectangular hole on the door top frames but I can't see how the push-pull latches go into the Bailey channel UNLESS a hole is drilled above the rectangular holes.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1276.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1277.jpg

And is there meant to be that space under the latch??

Have I got it wrong?

The locking devices supplied with the car as purchased were non-original "aftermarket" i.e. 2 lengths of steel rod that dropped into the Bailey channel. Crude but very effective!

[JDNSW]

You have it wrong. The push-pull latch you have is a Series 2/2a latch, which goes on the top of the door. The door top you have is a Series 3, which has a slide lock which is flush with the inner surface and has a plastic 'bolt' that slides up through a slot in the bottom of the bailey channel. (Not sure the change was exactly at 2a->3, but about then)

If nobody else does I'll see if I can get pictures today.

John

[geodon]

AH HA! Thnx, John!

As a Vietnamese acquaintance would say, "The Dong drops!" (they don't have pennies.)

Well, the door tops are here to stay, regardless of the Rivet Counters! Will the older latches work in this spot? Or are later latches available?

[chazza]

Have a look here: 347322 | Window Lock - S3 - push up with thumb (http://www.paddockspares.com/347322-window-lock-s3-push-up-with-thumb.html)

Cheers Charlie

[geodon]

Thnx Charlie, I've bought a couple!

Now, what's the best way of installing these thingies:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1024.jpg

The only experience I've had is where the seal is a complete loop and one stretches it over the glass, wraps some twine around the lip that goes inside the panel and then with one person pushing the glass in, t'other person pulls the twine & thereby the lip into position.

With this set-up, all I can imagine is to glue the seal on the glass using masking tape at the points it wants to lift off & then working as above.

Comments?

[chazza]

You need a locking-rubber installation tool; I found one on eBay.

I fitted the rubber to the glass first and then eased the lip of the rubber over the panel, whilst the panel was lying on the bench.

Once this is done the locking rubber then has to be inserted into the groove using the tool to push it into place. The tool I bought had nasty sharpish edges, so I spent 5 mins with and engraving tool and a small stone rounding-off the edges. Pushing the rubber in whilst dragging the tool was seriously hard-yakka but with the aid of liberal amounts of detergent and water brushed onto the seal, it went in eventually. In places the locking-rubber didn't go in completely, so I helped it with a small, blunt screwdriver,

Make sure the join in the seal is at the bottom of the window,

Cheers Charlie

[geodon]

Charlie, I tried that but the rubber wouldn't stay on the glass.

I tried black Sikaflex to hold it on & only made a mess. Supa Glue was cleaner but I still found it too damn hard.

I eventually got them in by putting the rubber on 1st.

(BTW Clark rubber sells this by the metre & VERY good quaility)

Then I started the window in the groove (be carefull- there are different grooves for glass vs metal) and by pushing the glass in from the outside while levering out the lip with a plastic paint scraper, the glass went in. I used a rattle can of silicone lubricant.
I have the doover for the strip. I only have to work out how to use it!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/893.jpg

[chazza]

Charlie, I tried that but the rubber wouldn't stay on the glass.

I have the doover for the strip. I only have to work out how to use it!


Whoops! Yes; my mistake, fit the rubber to the body first!

The installing tool has the locking rubber threaded through it and if you have a look at the tool and work out how it spreads the seal, you can drag it around the window, whilst at the same time encouraging the locking rubber to stay down in the groove. Along the straight bits was fairly easy, it was only the corners that were tricky,

Cheers Charlie

[RobHay]

DOOR WINDOW PROCEDURE:
The easiest way to install new window channels is with the door tops off the vehicle. The door top is held onto the door bottom by two bolts that protrude from the top and down into the bottom. Removing the inner door panels ( not applicable to Military vehicles) you will see the nuts that need to be loosened to remove the door top. Do so.
Dig out the bottom channel with a small straight screwdriver to uncover the screws and remove them. Repeat for the vertical channel.
Note: Removing these may be as simple as unscrewing them, but more likely you will need a screw extractor drill bit or combination drill/countersink bit to pull them out or chew them up. A needle nose pliers may assist you in getting out the remains.
TIP: Don't despair, if you can't get the entire screw out, you can just leave the remainder in (as long as nothing protrudes) and just drill a new hole with the 7/64" size bit.




Removing the sliding glass is easy, just remove the vertical and the bottom channels and
lift out the sliding glass.
4.Next, remove the top channel screws and the channel, the bump stop, and the retaining metal strip for the fixed glass.
5.Carefully pry out the fixed glass. Remove the residue of glazing putty from where the fixed glass was removed and clean the places where the channels will go.
Wash the glass in soap and water, scrape any off residue with a razor blade or use rubbing alcohol.

TIP : keep all the old pieces and use them to A: show you how the new pieces should fit and where, and B: show you where the screw holes are. I was lucky in that I didn't have to drill any new holes in the door top. With the old and new pieces side by side, upside down, I "eyeballed" where the old piece had a hole and used whiteout to mark where I needed a corresponding hole in the new weather stripping. I then turned the new weather stripping over and drilled the hole from the inside of the channel to the outside. I either have good hand eye coordination or very good luck; I consistently drilled through the white out mark. With the holes drilled and the arrangement of the pieces worked out, trial fitting is in order.



Install strips of glazing putty on the top, bottom, and front of the area on the door where the fixed glass was located. You may have to double up or thin down the putty to make the glass fit properly.
(alternate) Lay out the new parts (with holes drilled) and identify how the lower channel/fixed glass/filler strip all fit together. Some screws go through the filler strip and the window channel in places. Trial fit the new parts with the fixed window glass in the frame. Check the fit of the metal strip that holds the fixed glass in position; Is there a big gap between it and the glass or is the fit pretty snug? The answer will dictate how much sealer you will need to apply. You don't want the window rattling around, do you? With the glass in place, make some marks on the door top frame (to mark where to apply sealer). Try installing screws to see if all your holes line up. If everything is OK, then take apart the upper and lower horizontal window channels and remove the fixed glass. Apply a bead of Urethane based window sealer to the inside of the frame where the fixed glass will go. Too much will squeeze out and necessitate cleanup. Aim for a smooth, uninterrupted bead.
Press the fixed glass into the putty making sure the seal is good all the way around, then install the metal retainer strip, and don't worry about putty residue on the window or any irregularities in the putty at this point.
Measure the locations of the screw holes and mark them on the new window channels.

TIP: White-out correction fluid worked for me. [Very good tip. In fact, go to an office supply/art store and get a pen with white-out in it. Very handy to have around.]
Drill the new holes using the 7/64" drill bit.
TIP: It is best to lay the channel on top of a piece of wood and even better if someone can hold it for you too.
Install the vertical channel using the 1/2" long screws, and bottom horizontal window channel using the 5/8" long screws. Note: I installed the vertical channel last.



Install the rubber wiper strip on the sliding glass and secure with the metal retainer strip.
TIP: A mallet works best to push down the metal strip and it helps to have someone hold one end while you work on the other end.
With your screw driver and 1/2" screws ready, place the outer pane of glass in the top
channel, then position the pane in the lower horizontal channel and carefully slide the
window and upper channel in place.
Slide the glass to the middle and install a couple of screws to hold the channel in place, then install the remainder of the screws. Slide the glass pane back and forth lifting up and pushing down slightly to see if it is contacting any screw heads, then torque down any offending screws.
Don't forget to reinstall the bump stop.
Using a razor blade, remove any putty residue on the glass. Fill in any areas which need more putty and smooth using a straight edge screw driver.
Since you removed the door top, it would be a good idea to replace the rubber strip that goes between the top and bottom. This is held on with pop rivets but I think weatherstrip adhesive would be fine. Tip for alignment: The rubber strip protrudes into the cab of the vehicle and doesn't really show much from the outside.