Dual batteries?

[Summiitt]

Has anyone fitted up a dual battery system to an l322 rangie? I'm thinking about putting a second battery in the rear left hand compartment in the cargo area.this would require a bracket to be made up to secure the battery, but it looks pretty straight forward..any other ideas would be welcome.

[pat911]

How about the right hand side where the cubby hole is. If you remove the cubby a battery will fit perfectly. Most dual battery installs I've seen put the battery there. Here's a good link.
Dual Battery Installation for Range Rovers (http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrades/dualbattery.html)

Cheers
Pat.

[33chinacars]

Get a dual battery kit from Traxide, he's a sporsor on here. Lots of knowledge

Gary

[Homestar]

Yep, I have done it on mine - I have fitted 2 batteries into the RHS cubby hole. Wiring is a snap - there is a huge 100 amp supply running to the rear fuse box, and in mine, there was a spare maxi fuse holder - I have wired them through that, then down to the batteries. Works a treat.

Cheers - Gav

[harlie]

Link to my install below contains a pic of the Fuse box connections Gav mentions. Acording to RAVE that Maxi Fuse and connection is unused on all varients.

I was advised not to use the rear fuse box and run a dedicated twin cable from the front but that is simply not needed. I’ve measured over 30amps going into the second battery and If the battery is really low, after a couple minutes of running V is over 14 - so loss is not an issue. Make a good earth connection, use 13mm2 wires. Performs flawlessly.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l322-range-rover/125625-dual-battery-connection.html

[drivesafe]

Hi Folks and at long, LONG last I have finally begun putting a Dual Battery kit together that is specifically intended for the L322 Range Rover, and this post is just to see what sort of interest there is for a kit for L322 RRs.

The kit will be fairly easy to fit although you will need to dismantle some of the rear cargo area, to fit the battery, but the electrics are very straightforward.

The kit will be around the $200 mark and will have all cabling needed and this will all be cut to exact size, crimped and heat shrink fitted.

The kit will contain cables, a set of battery terminal clamps and a short 2 wire loom to rewire the rear power socket from the cranking battery to the auxiliary battery, a circuit breaker to protect the battery to battery circuit and an In-Lin fuse to protect the Accessories output and all pre-wired.

The main difference from any other potential set up is the introduction of a new DUAL ISOLATOR, the DT90.

The DT 90 is actually two isolators in one and is being specifically programmed for this new kit.

The new DT90 Isolator has the standard 90 amp Cranking Battery to Auxiliary Battery operation, but it also has a 30 amp Accessories Power Supply output.

The Accessories output is controlled by a microprocessor which monitors both batteries so both the Cranking Battery and the Auxiliary Battery are protected against over discharging.

Like the SC80 and USI-160, if the common voltage of the batteries reaches 12.0v ( 50% SoC ), the cranking battery is isolated but the Accessories Output continues to provide power to any accessories until the Auxiliary battery reaches 11.6v ( 20% SoC ). This is a safe cut-off voltage for any deep cycle battery.

The new DT90 is only slightly larger than a pack of cards which will make it much easier to fit.

The L322 kit will also include a special “Z” terminal to make it easy to connect to the cable in the rear of the L322.

The kit does not include a battery hold down bracket be cause of the different size batteries that could be installed.

[Homestar]

Sounds good! I have the batteries fitted in the back, but currently connected all the time - when I want to isolate them, I pull the fuse out I have wired them up through. Let us know when you have it ready to go, I'll be in for one for sure.

Cheers - Gav

[Summiitt]

Yep, I'm keen if it's available before mid aug, my battery is mounted and ready for the wiring.

[CBH25]

Yep Im in too.
A few noob questions, sorry in advance if they're dense:

1. Have you got a pic of the microprcssr display?
2. Would you need electrical training to install? Sound pretty easy to me :question::eek:
3. Do you have a qld workshop that could install as well, if so what's the cost?
4. What battery have you put in the rear of yours? What would you recommend?

Thanks for your help.

[harlie]

Sounds good Tim. I don't need one, mine is done, if it wasn't i would have one. Make it easy and they will sell.

However, I too am interested to here what batteries are being fitted in the RHS cubby.

[drivesafe]

Hi folks and the isolator is ready to go, I am just finalising the kit and the price.

Here are a few pictures but there will be a full set of installation instructions, with more pictures and a step by step guide on how to disassemble, wire in the isolator and reassemble your L322.

CBH25, I have set the kit up so you don’t need anything more than a few basic tools to do the installation so you should be fine doing it yourself.

At this point in time, I have only tested an Optima D34 battery in the location, but I have some more photos to take so I will place a few other batteries in the location and see if the fit.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1105.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1109.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1161.jpg

[Camo]

You ripper

One for me please.. need another for the classic aswell. A lot of $$ to run a fridge but is worth it:D

Camo

[drivesafe]

Camo, PM me your phone number, I have been trying to get in touch with you for a few weeks now, but kept getting side-tracked.

[jsp]

I would like a kit too - no issues with venting gas?

[drivesafe]

First off, Summiitt, sorry mate for highjacking your thread.

OK folks, as there is a bit of interest, earlier I quoted a guesstimated kit price of around $200.

It will be $250 for the kit but as so many of you are interested, I will have the kit ready by the end of this coming week.

Those who pay between in advance, by Wednesday, can have the kit for $200, including postage, as an introductory price.

Don’t do anything just yet as I will post up a lot more info about the kit, between now and tomorrow evening.

Just to give you some more details, the kit includes a similar In-Cab module to the one supplied with the USI-160, but as the DT90 will NOT have Jump Start or Winch features, because the Land Rover cable running to the back is not suitable, the DT90 In-Cab module will have both a green and red display LED but no mode selection switch.

The In-Cab module does have two miniature DIP switches in it.

These switches will allow you to select two different voltage Cut-OUT levels for both batteries.

The kit will be supplied with the Cut-Out levels set at 12.0v ( 50% SoC ) to isolate the cranking battery and 11.6v ( 20% SoC ) Cut-Out for the Auxiliary battery.

One switch will allow you to set the Cranking battery Cut-Out level to 12.5v ( 90% SoC ) and the second switch will allow you to set the Auxiliary battery Cut-Out to 11.8v ( 35% SoC ).

The two LEDs will not only indicate when the isolator is running in SHARED mode, but will indicate how much of the total useable capacity you have left, so you will, at a glance, know when you need to go for a drive to top up your batteries.

The DT90 In-Cab module is on a short lead so you can locate it in the rear cargo area. But if you want to have it in the front of your RR, it is a simple chore of adding a length of 4 core security cable, which I can supply.

I will post more pictures and info over the next day.

[Homestar]

I have 2 smaller batteries in mine - they are Sprinter S12V120 batteries we used to use at work. I have used these for 3 days straight running the Engel with no problems - they were down to about 11.5 volts but I have had no issues with them - not sure if they are really suitable, or what they are worth, but they were lying around looking for something to do, so I used them. Please ignore the wiring, I haven't done much with it - Drivesafe's kit will sort all that out.:)

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/L322/photo.jpg

Cheers - Gav

[drivesafe]

Hi Gav and that battery set up is fine.

If you buy a kit, remind me and I’ll two extra cables to allow you to parallel the batteries with thicker cable.

As soon as the whether eases up, I’ll get some more picture and I’ll post up full details in the VERANDAH section but at the full price.

The introductory price is good till the weekend when the kits will be ready.

Cheers and thanks for the orders so far.

[RangieBit]

Been away for a little while and I am now playing catch up with the various fora.

Count me in for one of these kits please.

Not sure how to get the funds to you Drivesafe but if you, or anyone else, can PM me the details I'll get them to you before the sun sets on Friday.

It's certainly sounding like a great little kit. Looking forward to more of your photos.

Cheers,
Iain

[Homestar]

I too can transfer the money on Friday, but like Rangiebit - not sure of the details.


Drivesafe - can you please PM us the details, or post what we need to know?

Cheers - Gav

[Camo]

Thanks for taking my order Tim.

Is this the right battery?

OPTIMA YELLOW TOP BATTERY 12 VOLT NEW AGM D34 750CCA DEEP CYCLE ALPINE PIONEER | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OPTIMA-YELLOW-TOP-BATTERY-12-VOLT-NEW-AGM-D34-750CCA-DEEP-CYCLE-ALPINE-PIONEER-/320931747556?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab905d6e4#ht_2108wt_907)

Camo

[Homestar]

Hi Gav and that battery set up is fine.

If you buy a kit, remind me and I’ll two extra cables to allow you to parallel the batteries with thicker cable.

As soon as the whether eases up, I’ll get some more picture and I’ll post up full details in the VERANDAH section but at the full price.

The introductory price is good till the weekend when the kits will be ready.

Cheers and thanks for the orders so far.

Just realised I didn't remind you about the extra two cables for my setup - I have done a funds transfer and PM'ed you - if you remember, can you please include the extra cables? No biggy if this gets missed, I'll sort something out myself.:)

Cheers - Gav

[drivesafe]

Hi Folks and there is a slight delay in the delivery time.

The new isolators are made up and just need to have the specific cables bolted to them, but I am trying to develop a battery hold down for the rear battery mount in the L322.

If I succeed in producing a hold down for the kit, I will include this with all the prepaid customer’s kits at no extra cost.

The problem is, until I develop the bracket, if I can, I can not make up the cables till I know exactly how long each cable will need to be.

Please note, I have experimented with a few conventional battery sizes and none fit very well, other than the Optima D34, so I am designing the bracket set up specifically for an Optima D34 battery.

I am flat out at this time with some back orders I must get out over the next two days ( supplies finally arrived today ) so I will fill these back orders first and then concentrate solely on the L322 kit over the weekend and will ship them with or without a hold down bracket set up on Monday.

Sorry for the delay but I need to get this kit as a finalised set up before I list it on my web site, but hopefully you will benefit from the addition of a bonus hold down bracket.

[Camo]

Sounds good to me. No hurry for me.

Camo

[RangieBit]

X2

Works for me too. No hurry for me.

It would be nice if you could engineer a hold down for a D34 (since that's what I have). It is not going to be the end of the world if you can't or don't though.

So, all up, not a problem.

Cheers,
Iain

[CBH25]

Thanks for the notice, I'm impatiently awaiting mine :D

Just got the battery today so was hoping to bugger up the install on the weekend.

Never mind, I can screw it up later.

[drivesafe]

The parts I need arrived this afternoon and I will test my test battery hold down set up over the weekend.

So far, the test unit is both simple and holds the battery securely, but I modified a standard hold down bolt to test the theory and now I have all the parts needed for the complete kit so they will be shipped Monday or Tuesday next week.

I have to finish the installation instructions and need some more pictures and once these are taken, I post some up.

I’ll be posting the full kit info in the Verandah section next week and once again, thanks again Summiitt for letting me highjack your thread.

[drivesafe]

Hi folks and sorry for the delay but I needed to make some changes to the software as there may have been a potential problem when attempting to charge a low Optima battery.

This problem will not occur with any other battery but because of the high currents an Optima can draw during a charge, I needed to make allowances for this.

A short explanation. About 6 or 7 years back, I was testing the ability of charging batteries down 10mm2 twin cable and I was using a very discharged Optima Yellow Top 55Ah as the current draw and the starting up current draw was over 60 amps.

Now to the dilemma this high current draw could have caused.

The DT90 isolator’s primary purpose is to allow for the charging of an auxiliary battery while protecting the cranking battery from being over-discharged.

In the normal charging state, the DT90 has three 30 amp relays all powered up together to allow for the safe handling of up to 90 amps to current from battery to battery. Each of these relays draws just 50ma while turned on.

The unique feature of my isolators is the ability to allow the use of up to 50% of the cranking battery capacity to be used for powering accessories while the motor is off. This is called the SHEARED mode.

Now the DT90 is specifically designed to draw even less power than the SC80 or the USI-160, while in the SHEARED mode it does this by reducing it’s own current requirements further while shearing the power between two batteries.

It does this, when the voltage at the DT90 drops below 12.75v, by randomly selecting any two of the three relays and shuts them down, saving an additional 100ma and while this doesn’t sound like much, over a few days camping, it can be a good power saving.

This is where the potential problem may have occurred if the Optima was in a very low state and the suspension compressor was running at the same time, the voltage drop at the DT90 could possibly drop below the 12.75v SHEAR mode threshold, causing the isolator to shut down two of the relays.

This under normal motor off type usage is exactly whats supposed to happen, but if it happened while the motor was on, because the Optima is in such a low state, it could be pulling as much as 60 amps through a 30 amp relay.

This situation could not be allowed to happen.

I have added some additional software routines to the program to allow the isolator to avoid the potential problem but I still needed to test both the current load capacity of the Range Rover’s rear power feed and that the new subroutines did what they were supposed to.

I carried out a worst case charge cycle for a single battery this morning, and the new programming does it’s job but while the drive this morning did not produce the low voltages I suspected it might, it did give a good idea of what the recharge capability of the new set up can achieve.

NOTE, the DT90 is not only capable of charging a single battery in the rear of the RR, it can easily handle the charging of a set of batteries in a camper trailer or caravan being towed behind the RR. Hence the potential low voltage scenario.

This is the basic results of the test which may be of interest:-

Both batteries had been in a rested state for about 15 hours and while the Optima was showing a State of Charge voltage ( SoC ) of 11.93v, it had actually been discharged down to 11.55v the day before.

The cranking battery was at 12.36v

Approximately 1 minute after starting the motor, the alternator voltage rose to 14.93v.

NOTE, I had deliberately keep the DT90 disconnected from the RR while I measured the start-up voltages at the cranking battery.

I then connect the DT90 and once it activated, the voltage at the Optima rapidly rose to 13.80v and there was a current draw of 47.7 amps, BUT, because the RR was idling, the voltage at the cranking battery was pulled down from 14.77v and as I was by myself, I did not have a means of increasing the revs to get the voltage back up to 14.93v.

If I could have lifted the voltage up to 14.97v, the maximum registered this morning, I would probably have measured as much as 55+ amps being drawn by the Optima.

After 20 minutes driving, the current draw at the Optima were still 41A and the volts were 13.91v with the motor idling. The cranking battery voltage was 14.77v at idea and was at 14.97 while driving.

At 25 minutes, the optima’s readings were 30A @ 14.21v.

At 30 minutes, 22.5A @ 14.35

A short time after 30 minutes from the starting of the motor, the alternator voltage dropped from 14.97v to 14.04 at the cranking battery while driving and 13.99 at idle

At 40 minutes, 12.7A @ 13.72

At 45 minutes, 10.6A @ 13.76

At 75 minutes, 5.6A @ 13.82. This last reading was just before the motor was stopped and the cranking battery voltage was 13.96.

Again note that if your were towing a CT or Caravan, with a few batteries being charged, the current draw would be higher but the resulting voltage drop would place a quasi current limit on the system to somewhere around 75 to 80 amps.

Anyway, with all testing and programming finalised, I will start shipping all the kits early next week.

Again sorry for the delay but I always prefer to be as cautious as possible when developing new systems.

[drivesafe]

I’ll post some more pictures this afternoon and I have also found another battery that will fit the L322 rear compartment.

It’s an Allrounder MRV48, a 60Ah battery.

Supercharge Batteries - Car Batteries, Maintenance, Expanded Grid Technology (http://www.supercharge.com.au/product_detail.php'seq=95)

[Daniel]

Thanks for taking my order Tim.

Is this the right battery?

OPTIMA YELLOW TOP BATTERY 12 VOLT NEW AGM D34 750CCA DEEP CYCLE ALPINE PIONEER | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OPTIMA-YELLOW-TOP-BATTERY-12-VOLT-NEW-AGM-D34-750CCA-DEEP-CYCLE-ALPINE-PIONEER-/320931747556?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab905d6e4#ht_2108wt_907)

Camo

Why not go for the blue top OPTIMA - same price/ specs but has SS wing nut terminals in addtn to SAE posts.

[drivesafe]

Hi Daniel, the Yellow Top is both a deep cycle battery and a winching battery so it can be used to jump start but the Blue Top is a cranking battery and is NOT recommended for deep cycle use.

See the info on Optima’s web site for a comparison of battery types

[drivesafe]

Hi Folks and sorry for the delay but they are just about ready to go ( tomorrow or Wednesday ) but in the meantime, can everybody who prepaid please send me a PM with your E-mail address so I can send a PDF of the installation instructions to you.

I have not finished the instructions but will get them to you in time to fit the kit this coming weekend.

As part of the kit I will also be adding a 50 amp Anderson plug on short leads ( at no extra cost ) so that your can run high current devices like an inverter or air compressor off your auxiliary battery.


Here are some more pictures of the set up and a bit of pre-installation work you will need to do.

The first shows the rear battery compartment. In the TDV8 there is a threaded screw sticking up in the front driver’s side corner. This screw is used to hold a wire Tiedown in place.

The screw needs to be removed to allow the battery to fit squarely in the box and to allow the battery hold down bracket to be a safe distance from the battery’s positive terminal.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/48.jpg



This picture shows the battery hold down bolt in place and you can see where the screw was removed. I covered the spot with liquid zinc.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1108.jpg



This picture shows the battery with the bracket in place.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1110.jpg



This last picture shows the battery with the base plate back in place.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1111.jpg

There will be a far more comprehensive set of instruction provided with the kits.

[Daniel]

Hi Folks and sorry for the delay but they are just about ready to go ( tomorrow or Wednesday ) but in the meantime, can everybody who prepaid please send me a PM with your E-mail address so I can send a PDF of the installation instructions to you.
........


Looks great! - Will the kit include the battery terminal connectors as shown fitted to the yellow D34 or do I need to obtain them myself?

I've sent you the PM although I think you already have my email address from prior correspondence - regards, Daniel

[drivesafe]

Hi Daniel and you will not need anything other than the battery.

The kit includes all cabling with an in-line circuit breaker on the main cable, an in-line fuse on the accessories output wire, battery terminal clamps, battery hold down bracket and mounting hardware, main module plus a remote LED and control module, a short pre-assembled lead to plug into the rear power socket and a pre-wired 50 amp Anderson Plug.

As mentioned earlier in the thread, there will be a small “Z” terminal used to connect to the main cable in the back of the RR, I will pre-bolt this to the cable as I found it is a bit hard to get the assembly straight without using a vice and it’s a lot easier for me to assemble it before I assemble the rest of the kit’s cabling than it would be to do while installing the kit.

[RangieBit]

Just wondering,

Did anyone receive their Traxide L322 DBS kit this week?

With yet another wet and miserable weekend scheduled here I was looking forward to a few hours indoors installing this in the back of the rangie.

Not quite looking forward as much to the aches and pains from hunching over the back of the beast screwing, bolting, grinding, hefting and hauling. Of course accompanied by the usual array of cursing and muttering. :p

Ah well, there's always next weekend. :angel:

Cheers,
Iain

[Daniel]

Just wondering,

Did anyone receive their Traxide L322 DBS kit this week?

With yet another wet and miserable weekend scheduled here I was looking forward to a few hours indoors installing this in the back of the rangie.

Not quite looking forward as much to the aches and pains from hunching over the back of the beast screwing, bolting, grinding, hefting and hauling. Of course accompanied by the usual array of cursing and muttering. :p

Ah well, there's always next weekend. :angel:

Cheers,
Iain
.
.

You will live in a "wet and miserable" city won't you?

I spoke to Ian on Friday afternoon and he is now planning to send the aux battery kits out this week.

[Daniel]

Hi Daniel, the Yellow Top is both a deep cycle battery and a winching battery so it can be used to jump start but the Blue Top is a cranking battery and is NOT recommended for deep cycle use.

See the info on Optima’s web site for a comparison of battery types

.
.

Got my yellow top Optima on Friday but still waiting for the Traxide aux battery kit to arrive.

It appears that the advice on Optima batteries is wrong.

Optima "Blue Tops" come in 2 different types. The standard blue top (light grey sides) is indeed identical to the yellow top but has SS male thread posts in addition to the SAE posts. The non standard blue top (dark grey sides) is a marine cranking battery and as advised is not suitable for deep cycle use.

I should have researched this further before taking the advice on face value:(

The male thread posts are so much more useful for aux battery use (wing nuts with no spanners etc)!

[RangieBit]

.
...

You will live in a "wet and miserable" city won't you?

...

Actually according to the statistics collected by the Bureau of Meteorology over the last hundred plus years, NSW has a higher rainfall and more actual "wet" days per year than down this way in Victoria. I know this from personal experience too, having lived further north than here for about 20 years. Still, the myth continues. Some folk just never learn.

Anyway, this thread isn't about the weather, thanks for the update on the kit availability via Tim.

Sorry to hear about the confusion over battery types. To my mind the extra terminals on the D34M would end up being a pain as using them would mean having to leave the covers over the main posts to prevent accidental shorts. That's just my view though and others such as yourself may find them handier than the regular posts. Never needed them in previous incarnations of dual battery systems. Maybe I'm just used to the terminals with the little bolts now.

Cheers,
Iain



Cheers,
Iain

[drivesafe]

Hi Folks and sorry for the continual delays and while the kits are not finished, I’ll explain below, all pre-paid kits were shipped via express post this afternoon so you will all have them tomorrow.

The kits are for all in tents and purpose, finished but, I have to put the installation instructions together yet, plus I have decided to provide a warning sticker, to be placed near the cranking battery, to indicate there is a second battery fitted in the RR.

The reason for this is that unlike any other dual battery installation, the Range Rover engine bay shows absolutely no indication that there is a second battery fitted.

Any other vehicle, even when the second battery is located somewhere other than the engine bay, there will be an isolator fitted in the engine bay or at least additional cables coming off the cranking battery.

With the RR dual battery set up, there are no such extras in plain view and if someone was to work on the RR and think that by removing the cranking battery leads they have remove 12v from the vehicle, no so.

I have the vinyl material to make the warning stickers I just haven’t had the time to do the artwork.

As soon as the stickers are ready, I’ll post them out to you.

Thanks for everybody’s patience.

[Daniel]

.......
Sorry to hear about the confusion over battery types. To my mind the extra terminals on the D34M would end up being a pain as using them would mean having to leave the covers over the main posts to prevent accidental shorts. That's just my view though and others such as yourself may find them handier than the regular posts. Never needed them in previous incarnations of dual battery systems. Maybe I'm just used to the terminals with the little bolts now..........
Cheers,
Iain
.
.
Good points - by "little bolts...." do you mean lead SAE posts that are squared off with bolt holes through them?
The reason I don't like using the lead SAE posts in whatever form is that they always suck acid up them and corrode connections. The marine type SS bolts appear to have better seals and never leak acid thereby providing the obvious benefits. As far as battery top shorts - this is an issue that needs attention no matter what connections are made and really is no different between for example the yellow top of blue top - if one doesn't take precautions then an accidental short will occur. Given the ease of making plastic extrusions I can;t belive that in this day and age batteries do not have included a hard plastic cover over the battery top that would prevent any short.

At least the DIN spec batteries as fitted to LR have the recessed terminals and base mounting - it would appear to have been so easy to design a battery top cover that would completely cover and protect the terminals and associated wiring connections.

My 2005 L322 has to its credit an isolated positive terminal and a negative terminal at the top of the front LHS strut - this allowed LR to fit a decent + battery terminal cover.
My 2007 L322 does not have this useful feature.

[CBH25]

I have decided to provide a warning sticker, to be placed near the cranking battery, to indicate there is a second battery fitted in the RR.

the Range Rover engine bay shows absolutely no indication that there is a second battery fitted.

if someone was to work on the RR and think that by removing the cranking battery leads they have remove 12v from the vehicle, no so.



Hi drivesafe, thanks for the extras you've put into the Pre-orders.

Can you please just give a noob a bit more info on the dual battery disconnecting. With your set up, how would one disconnect the battery to work on the car?

Do I have to remember to disconnect both each time?
Or will the isolator do something tricky when one is disconnected?

[Daniel]

Hi drivesafe, thanks for the extras you've put into the Pre-orders.

Can you please just give a noob a bit more info on the dual battery disconnecting. With your set up, how would one disconnect the battery to work on the car?

Do I have to remember to disconnect both each time?
Or will the isolator do something tricky when one is disconnected?

I agree that if the main battery is disconnected then an isolator powered by the original main battery should isolate the auxiliary battery so that the only part of the wiring loom alive is the main lead from the aux battery to the isolator. That wire is seen (of course) when one sees the aux battery.

I guess that are some fools around (especially in dealer's workshops) that would still need to be warned.

[RangieBit]

X2 for the kits (and extra bits)

Thanks Tim.

I found the attached pics while I was sifting through some stuff looking for something else the other day. I think they may have originally been on a rangerovers.net thread. Can't remember now. Seems that the extra positive lead running away from the rear fuse box wasn't enough of a giveaway that more lurked beneath.

Might be worth considering, as Daniel rightly points out there are still folk around who need to be coddled outrageously.

I guess you can never have too much labelling when working with these electrically/electronically sensitive beasts.

Cheers,
Iain

[drivesafe]

Hi folks and I just got in and just read Iain’s PM.

Sorry folks but I forgot to include the battery terminal clamps in the kits.

I’ll have them in Mondays post.

I’ll have more on the installation info posted up in the morning.

As far as the label goes, it is needed with my isolators because unlike other isolators, my isolators keep the batteries connected and if one is removed, the other battery still keeps the whole circuit powered.

So there needs to be a warning up front, for anybody working on the cranking battery, to let them know another battery is in the system.

Cheers.

[bluegreygreen Rangie]

What they need is a jack to put under the suspension arms, Changed my rear the other day and put a peice of hardwood under the a arm at the back and used a little trolly jack.. too easy

Never tried to use the stock jack.. but if it dont work then thats bull$hit and we are all entitled to a new one



Dave

[CBH25]

Hi drivesafe, got my kit friday as well thanks.

When you mentioned LED I was thinking of a little display which might show a voltage level per battery. My fault for assuming.

Do you sell any small led/lcd readouts which show voltages, and can be incorporated into this system?

Thanks

[Daniel]

What they need is a jack to put under the suspension arms, Changed my rear the other day and put a peice of hardwood under the a arm at the back and used a little trolly jack.. too easy

Never tried to use the stock jack.. but if it dont work then thats bull$hit and we are all entitled to a new one



Dave
.
.

I suspect that somehow you have posted this into the wrong thread!
This is the dual batteries thread and not the L322 jack thread.

[Daniel]

Hi folks and I just got in and just read Iain’s PM.

Sorry folks but I forgot to include the battery terminal clamps in the kits.

I’ll have them in Mondays post.

I’ll have more on the installation info posted up in the morning.

As far as the label goes, it is needed with my isolators because unlike other isolators, my isolators keep the batteries connected and if one is removed, the other battery still keeps the whole circuit powered.

So there needs to be a warning up front, for anybody working on the cranking battery, to let them know another battery is in the system.

Cheers.


Thanks for that - but a lot of this is 'double Dutch' until we see the kit and the instructions - i thought that you were going to email us the instructions?

[drivesafe]

Hi Daniel and I am working on the instructions right now and have been for the last few hours.

BTW, You should have your kit by now?

[drivesafe]

Hi folks and this link will take you to the installation instructions for the new kit, and some time tonight, I will e-mail out the PDFs to those who have the bought new kits.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?p=1737352#post1737352

[RangieBit]

Hi Tim,

Thanks for that. Very concise, clear and well ordered set of instructions. oh, and well illustrated too.

Thanks for all your work on producing the kit and instructions. I look forward to the PDF version in my mailbox.

Cheers,
Iain

[drivesafe]

I look forward to the PDF version in my mailbox.

Hi and thanks Iain, and I still have to post up the way the LED works, particularly for CBH’s benefit as it should save him from having to buy a volt meter.

[RangieBit]

Great stuff Tim,

I was actually going to ask earlier about the different states of the LED, and then I thought that you would probably have something about that in the final cut.

I guessed right it seems.

Cheers,
Iain

P.S. I like the look of the warning sticker too. That should save a lot of issues during servicing (unless some dolt really isn't paying attention).

[Daniel]

Hi Daniel and I am working on the instructions right now and have been for the last few hours.

BTW, You should have your kit by now?

Thanks - never got to the PO last week. may be there today, I'll let you know.
The instructions have a quite a few typos in them.
It may be worth to proof read before printing off.
Also My L322 has torx socket head cap screws and not single hex (allen) socket head cap screws fastening the cargo hooks.

[Daniel]

.... and I still have to post up the way the LED works....

Actually what we need is a set of user's instructions on how the 2 batteries interact, the functionality of the isolator etc.

Also what design consideration has been made for battery fumes (hydrogen) being discharged into a non ventilated area that contains devices such as relays that makes sparks? The same area also contains the EAS compressor which is driven by a motor that has brushes + lots of sparks.

I don't see any reference to battery models warning in the instructions - all acid batteries emit hydrogen to some extent and are prone to cause explosions if not adequately and properly ventilated.

[Camo]

Actually what we need is a set of user's instructions on how the 2 batteries interact, the functionality of the isolator etc.

Also what design consideration has been made for battery fumes (hydrogen) being discharged into a non ventilated area that contains devices such as relays that makes sparks? The same area also contains the EAS compressor which is driven by a motor that has brushes + lots of sparks.

I don't see any reference to battery models warning in the instructions - all acid batteries emit hydrogen to some extent and are prone to cause explosions if not adequately and properly ventilated.

Drill a hole if you are concerned;) I seriously doubt the bay is super air tight.

[drivesafe]

Thanks Camo and Daniel, I am well aware of the potential problem of batteries gassing.

It is not an air tight battery box and it has been used as a battery box by many RR L322 owners, including myself, for many years.

And like most, my previous battery was a flooded wet cell, an Allrounder.

If you don’t want to put your second battery in the compartment, or if you want to use a bigger battery, sit one in the rear cargo area and use the RR tire downs to hold it in place.

With any other type of isolator set up, the only time you would have a potential problem was if you were charging the cranking battery and the battery charger was faulty and the voltage exceeded the upper voltage limits of the battery.

This is not a problem with the DT90 because while you could still damage your cranking battery if you used a faulty battery charger or even if you had a runaway alternator.

But because of the intended location of the second battery in the rear, the DT90 has an Over Voltage protection feature, and will shut down to stop the battery being over charged.

If you were to use a faulty battery charger connected directly to the rear battery, then the battery could not be covered while a charger was connected, so again, there is no gassing problem.

As per my e-mail to you.

The full installation instructions are in the PROJECTS and TUTORIAL section.

The only info that is yet to be included, is how the LEDs work.

[CBH25]

Hi Drivesafe, did you get my PM?
I'm anxious to install mine, but need the battery terminals.
Thanks
Craig

[drivesafe]

Hi Craig and I missed supplying all the kit with battery terminal clamps, but I posted them out the other day, along with the stickers.

You should receive them today or tomorrow.

[drivesafe]

Folks, I’ll have full operating details, and I might add, a hell of a lot more detail than is supplied with any other brand of isolator, in the thread tonight some time.

But in the mean time, to counter some of the “theories” being asked.

There is no way on gods earth that I am going to put a battery in a sealed compartment of my own vehicle, let alone advise others to do so.

The rear compartment, where the battery is to be mounted, has a whopping big vent that takes up most of the window self, right beside the rear window.

As such, even in a worst case scenario, any hydrogen that might be produced will be vented straight to the atmosphere of your cabin.

So there is no way you can get a build up or have an explosion.

I’ll post more on this when I have the time but those worried about any potential gas production, please have a look at your rear window shelf!

[Daniel]

Folks, I’ll have full operating details, and I might add, a hell of a lot more detail than is supplied with any other brand of isolator, in the thread tonight some time.

But in the mean time, to counter some of the “theories” being asked.

There is no way on gods earth that I am going to put a battery in a sealed compartment of my own vehicle, let alone advise others to do so.

The rear compartment, where the battery is to be mounted, has a whopping big vent that takes up most of the window self, right beside the rear window.

As such, even in a worst case scenario, any hydrogen that might be produced will be vented straight to the atmosphere of your cabin.

So there is no way you can get a build up or have an explosion.

I’ll post more on this when I have the time but those worried about any potential gas production, please have a look at your rear window shelf!


Thank you - asked the question and got the response.
I didn't know whether hydrogen rises or falls within air?

Either way as you have obviously considered it then that is all I ask of you.
There are a lot of recalls worldwide where car manufacturers with whole teams of expert engineers only learn of their poor designs after a couple cars in 100,000 have a problem. The question had to be asked!

I know that in RVs they never ever put the aux battery inside the cabin but always put in in a special cradle outside the cabin. I assume that there is some standard (ADR etc) that addresses the issue. I suspect that if a battery is mounted inside a vehicle cabin then a warning sign must be placed.

[drivesafe]

I know that in RVs they never ever put the aux battery inside the cabin.

Yes they do and the most common and safest place, is under an open bed or seats.




I assume that there is some standard (ADR etc) that addresses the issue. I suspect that if a battery is mounted inside a vehicle cabin then a warning sign must be placed.

Hi Daniel and there are no specific rules and no need for them.

There are also more than two dozen “NEW” vehicle models, here in Australia, with a battery mounted inside the cab and you NEVER hear of problems, plus there were 25,000,000 old VW Beetles with their cranking battery mounted under the rear seat, inside the cab and again, no exploding Beetles.

[Camo]

My parents just spent 200k on a new motorhome.. batteries are under the bed.

Defenders have them under the seat yeah?

Camo

[jsp]

Thank you - asked the question and got the response.
I didn't know whether hydrogen rises or falls within air?

Either way as you have obviously considered it then that is all I ask of you.
There are a lot of recalls worldwide where car manufacturers with whole teams of expert engineers only learn of their poor designs after a couple cars in 100,000 have a problem. The question had to be asked!

I know that in RVs they never ever put the aux battery inside the cabin but always put in in a special cradle outside the cabin. I assume that there is some standard (ADR etc) that addresses the issue. I suspect that if a battery is mounted inside a vehicle cabin then a warning sign must be placed.

mate, take a deep breath and relax :)

Tim has his normal everyday business to run, he offered a cut price offer to us on the forum, and has done his best to get it out in a reasonable time. I am sure all details will be forthcomming, as normally he would have just said a L322 kit was comming out, you would have waited 4 or 5 months, and paid allot more.

Where else are you going to get a custom kit tailor made for you car for $200?

Spend some time reading his various posts on the forum over the past few years, or better still, give him a phone call and you will quickly realise this is what he does for a living and he knows his stuff.

Patience, or go out and spend double on a generic kit where you have it all in your hot little hands right now :)

I should be bugging you on the details of the $15 high quality inline diesel pump! ;)

[Daniel]

My parents just spent 200k on a new motorhome.. batteries are under the bed.

Defenders have them under the seat yeah?

Camo

Good point!

[Daniel]

...mate, take a deep breath and relax :)...
..
thanks, I am totally relaxed and patient.

[Daniel]

...plus there were 25,000,000 old VW Beetles with their cranking battery mounted under the rear seat, inside the cab and again, no exploding Beetles.....
....
thank you that is very reassuring!

[CBH25]

Hi tim

Got my kit installed and have three questions please:

1. what is the reason for unclipping the tailgate spring loaded flappy thing? (or have I missed somthing important!)

2. Once installed my rear accessory port no longer works. Any ideas where to check first?
I have green flashing led.
I've checked the connections a few times
Ive checked the device on other ports without issue.
Multimetre reports aux batt at 12.7 but no power at the small red anderson plug, fuse looks fine

3. Can I use the old white power connector that used to connect to above 12v port to power something else?

[Daniel]

Hi tim

Got my kit installed and have three questions please:

1. what is the reason for unclipping the tailgate spring loaded flappy thing? (or have I missed somthing important!)

2. Once installed my rear accessory port no longer works. Any ideas where to check first?
I have green flashing led.
I've checked the connections a few times
Ive checked the device on other ports without issue.

3. Can I use the old white power connector that used to connect to above 12v port to power something else?


As I understand it the rear 12v socket is powered from the new auxiliary battery.

I've also asked Tim by email and by post for operation instructions - the installation instructions are somewhat sparse on how the system is meant to operate. Numerous typos do not help readability either.

[drivesafe]

Hi Craig and I didn’t finish work till after 9pm last night so I just didn’t get time to post up the operating instructions.

For now, start by running your motor for a few munites.

Depending on which version of the L322 you, it will take from 30 secons ( cold motor start ) to a couple of minutes before the alternator voltage rises above the Cut-In level of the DT90.

Once the DT90 is cut-in, the Green LED will glow constantly, AND, you will now have power at the rear power socket.

See how this goes, and let me know if it does not work.

[drivesafe]

Here are the full operation instructions.


After finishing the installation of the DT90-L322 kit, start and run your motor for a few minutes.

Depending on which version of the L322 you have, it will take anywhere from 30 seconds ( cold motor start ) to a couple of minutes before the alternator voltage rises above the Cut-In level of the DT90.

Once the DT90 is cut-in, the GREEN LED will glow constantly, and you will now have power at the rear power socket.

When the motor is turned off, the GREEN LED will still glow constantly until the surface voltage in the batteries drops below 13.0v. This could take just a few minutes or all night.

Once the common battery voltage drops below 13.0v, the GREEN LED will glow constantly but there will be a short RED flash about every 2 seconds. This is to indicate the common battery voltage is still up the the surface charge level. ( between 12,7v and 13.0v ).

Again this could take just a few minutes or all night.

Once the common voltage of the batteries drops below 12.7v, ( the full charged state of a lead acid battery ), the GREEN LED will glow constantly for two seconds then the RED LED will give 5 short pulses, then the GREEN LED will again glow for two seconds, then 5 RED pulses, and this is continually repeated.

Other brands of isolators shut down between 12.5 and 12.7V

When the voltage at the DT90 drops below 12.7, this is where the isolator goes into what is called the SHARED Mode, where the DT90 randomly shuts down two of the three 30 amp relays. This is done to both extend the operating life of all the relays but it also reduces the DT90’s power consumption from around 215 ma to 115 ma.

While being used to power accessories, like a fridge, lights, an inverter, or what ever, as the batteries common voltage drops, the number of RED pulses will decrease to match the amount of usable capacity remaining in the batteries.

This is a form of a battery fuel gauge.

When the common voltage gets to 12v, the number of RED pulses will go from 2 to 1 and at that point, the cranking battery will be isolated.

The 2 second GREEN with a single RED pulse will continue, the 1 RED pulse indicates you are now powering your accessories from 1 battery, the AUXILIARY battery.

When the Auxiliary battery’s voltage drops below either 11.8v or 11.6v ( depending, on what position you have Switch 2 set in ), the DT90 will turn off the ACCESSORIES output to protect the auxiliary battery from being over discharged and the GREEN LED will give short flashes, indicating the DT90 is now turned off.

The biggest single advantage with using any of my isolators is the SHARED mode operation. By allowing up to half of the cranking battery’s reserve capacity to be used to power your accessories, you increase the amount of your auxiliary battery capacity by at least 50%

In the specific case of the L322 Range Rover set up, with just a 55Ah auxiliary battery, there is a 100% increase in available capacity.

There is also another advantage to this SHARED mode. With continual short drive use of any vehicle, the cranking battery is never properly RECHARGED after starting the motor.

With the DT90 and an Optima battery, because the Optima is a genuine fast charging battery, after a short drive, the Optima will always be in a higher state of charge than the cranking battery.

When you turn your motor off, the two batteries will settle back to their respective states of charge, but because the Optima will always be in a higher state of charge and combined with the fact the DT90 keeps the batteries connect, the Optima slowly discharges back into the cranking battery, progressively raising the cranking battery’s settled voltage.

Over a period of one to three weeks after you install the DT90 kit, your cranking battery will eventually be continually maintained in a fully charged state at all times.

This means your motor will start easier, and as your cranking battery is not working as hard to start your motor, it will have a longer operating life.

This info is based of feedback from users of my isolators over the last two decades and the advantages are more relevant now than they were 20+ years ago, when we started making the SC40 and SC80.

[Homestar]

Thanks for that. There are some really nice smarts in this unit, with features found in no other isolator.

Well done - great work.

Cheers - Gav

[CBH25]

Great news that the rear power port should now be working, thanks, ill check it tmrw.

I thought id buggered it up and considered pulling the whole thing out to start again.

[CBH25]

Yep working after a drive, thanks Tim.

[drivesafe]

Hi Craig and good to hear.

The LED module is designed to be tucked away when not in use, but there is no specific reason for needing to put it away, so over the next few weeks, if you remember, check the LED before you unlock your RR, you might be a bit surprised how low your batteries get.

If you use your RR on a daily basis, depending on how long you drive for each time you drive, you will notice that the batteries get progressively higher and remain that way.

If you don’t use your RR all that often, the LED is a great way to keep an eye on the state of your batteries with out the need to use a multi meter ( or even having to open your doors ).

[RangieBit]

.... you might be a bit surprised how low your batteries get.

....

Umm, Yes,

Fitted the kit and then left the rangie overnight. Return to see the little LED flashing red twice every few seconds with the solid green. Is that about 40% capacity? Low, anyway :eek:.

Really must make sure I take it for a long run more often.

Anyhoo, the kit is working just great. Thanks Tim.

Cheers,
Iain

[drivesafe]

LED flashing red twice every few seconds with the solid green. Is that about 40% capacity?

Hi Iain and with two Red flashes, your batteries are somewhere between 50 and 70%.

While this is OK it is still a bit low if you have not been running a fridge or the likes.

How often do you drive your RR?

[RangieBit]

Hi Tim, thanks for the feedback.

The RR only gets driven about every other day. Only about once a week does it get driven long enough to reach normal operating temp. Mind you some days at this time of year even that might take about forty minutes:o

Most trips are only about ten minutes duration start to stop (Yes, I know not really good for a diesel). So, kinda tricky for the car to get any sort of charge happening. In writing this I'm sort of amazing myself that the main battery is lasting as well as it is!

Am off on a loooong highway trip over the weekend so we'll see what happens then. I'll let you know.

Cheers,
Iain

[33chinacars]

Hi Tim . Have you used the smaller Optima D35. Any comments

Gary

[drivesafe]

Hi Gary and the D34 is the battery I have built the kit around.

While the D34 by itself will give you 45 amperes of usable power ( taking the D34 down to 20% SoC ), but with the way the DT90 isolator works, you actually have 90 amperes of usable power available ( taking the cranking battery down to 50% SoC ).

To get the same capacity with any other set up, you would need to have a 110Ah battery, which won’t fit in the compartment.

So the Optima D34 is the way to go in my opinion.

[33chinacars]

Thanks Tim. Only difference is that I have the SC80 that I got from you some time ago & been a bit slack as I'm yet to fit. Realy only want to run fridge of 2 nd battery

Gary

[drivesafe]

Thanks Tim. Only difference is that I have the SC80 that I got from you some time ago & been a bit slack as I'm yet to fit. Realy only want to run fridge of 2 nd battery

Gary

Hi Garry and you will get similar benefits from the SC80!

[jsp]

not to hijack he thread...I started on putting in my kit today in the back of my car.

My car is a early 2002 TD6 HSE - base model with the only electrical options being the mid stereo, it was the press car used in the magazine reviews etc.

I have found some non factory wiring I am unsure off. There is two reasonable gauge runs which dissapear under the drivers seat somewhere, orriginating from the rear fuse box.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/434.jpg

you can see them in the above picture, black cables with red/black wires inside. One of them goes into a circuit breaker/relay of some sort, which is only labelled "batt" and "aux". The other pair is spliced into a wiring loom, into wires of much lighter gauge.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/435.jpg

I guess I will check rave and see what these wires are connected too in the loom.

Apart from that there is a bunch of wires with a toggle switch and a relay, and the only connected wire goes into the trigger for the relay and is spliced into another loom and as far as I can tell is an ignition switched 12v.

Everything works in the car, and works as expected. So I am at a bit of a loss? The wire for the big relay/circuit breaker is dissconnected so I am assuming there is nothing on the other end of the run.

[drivesafe]

Hi JSP and I’m only guessing but I think that might be some sort of connection to a trailer plug.

Probably fitted before the trailer adaptor was available.

When I bought my 02 RR, they told me the adaptor was not available but would be supplies as soon as it arrived, and it was.

[jonnyjon05]

This is the route I have gone down for the Dual Battery set up. Has everything I want all packed in to one Solid State MOSFET kit. Will post a review when It is installed.

EBI Series (http://www.intervolt.com/products/electronic-battery-isolator/ebi-series.aspx)

http://www.intervolt.com/sites/intervoltcom/assets/public/Image/banner-ftr-product2.png

[Homestar]

Looks like an interesting unit.

I'm running drivesafes unit in mine which has worked great. I'm running 2 smaller UPS batteries in the back, instead of the optima it was designed for but it hasn't missed a beat - the best thing about Tims unit is that it keeps the cranking battery at a higher state of charge and I don't get erroneous fault codes popping up anymore while cranking on cold mornings. Let's face it - you generally don't use the auxiliary battery every day, so it may as well be doing something useful when it is just sitting there... :)

Can't recommend it highly enough - it is a VERY smart unit that does a lot more than any other setup on the market - well worth looking at.

Do you need to be switching 100amps up the back of the vehicle? If you're just running a fridge and some lights then a monster like that is quite unnecessary.

[jonnyjon05]

The only come in once size and unfortunately the wiring in the back is only (8 gauge) is only rated to 20 amps so I will see how go over the length of the car.
that Blue unit does exactly the same things as the drive safe unit. Just solid state.

[drivesafe]

Hi Jonny and actually, that unit does not do the same.

If your RR is pre 2006 then you should be fine, it will work as the voltage of the earlier L322 RRs is a constant 14.3v.

But if your RR is 2006 or later then like all mosfet type isolators, there will be a voltage drop and even in a pre 2006 RR, my isolator will give much better auxiliary to cranking battery recharge results.

In a 2006 RR and later, with the varying operating voltage levels, the voltage drop through mosfet type isolators can be a problem, in both directions.

Note, I saw these units when they were introduced some time back and I could not find any reference to just how much voltage drop they have, at different current loads.

[Homestar]

The only come in once size and unfortunately the wiring in the back is only (8 gauge) is only rated to 20 amps so I will see how go over the length of the car.
that Blue unit does exactly the same things as the drive safe unit. Just solid state.

You will find there is quite some difference in the operation of each unit. The Traxide unit is very smart and does a number of things - the unit you are looking at is a straight voltage dependant switch by the look of it and by the blurb on it. :)

The Traxide unit is also much more compact and fits behind the sider cover easily, and is supplied as a true kit just for the L322 that has all cables, clamps, ties and full step by step instructions for the L322. It is a very well thought out kit. Just sayin' :)

[jonnyjon05]

Thanks for the replies gentleman and I mean no disrespect to your Unit Drivesafe. I was initially intending on buying your unit when I first looked at a dual battery install and will if this unit does not do exactly what I want i will be buying the one you have made. I however have purchase the previosly mentioned unit because I want to pioneer something else with this car and one thing I have not tried is MOSFET relays. Either way the second battery is in :)

Looks like a standard boot right?

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=75572&stc=1&d=1397211863

Still looks pretty standard but there is this odd terminal in the bottom right.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=75573&stc=1&d=1397211863

The loom is now routed in front of the battery as opposed to underneath. Battery is not connected, disappointing.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=75577&stc=1&d=1397212108

This is the piece I had to cut out to mount the battery.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=75575&stc=1&d=1397211863

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=75576&stc=1&d=1397211863

Battery is a 120 A/Hr Deep Cycle.


The control unit in question is advertised to do the following:

Clear LED status display and indicators for ease of operation;
100 Amps continuously rated with a generous 500 Amps peak;
Dual sensing allows main battery to be charged from auxiliary;
Output indicator function for convenient in-vehicle monitoring;
Input for in-vehicle remote emergency combine switch (starting);
Overload and short circuit protection with automatic shutdown;
Over temperature protected with automatic thermal shutdown;
Low input voltage sensing with automatic shutdown protection;
Electronics are encapsulated in dust and water proof housing;
Compact design can be mounted in any position that suits;
Heavy duty construction designed for under-bonnet installations;
24 months warranty (subject to policy terms and conditions).

Footprint – 62mmW x 92mmL x 92 mmH

Regards,

Jonathon

[Homestar]

No offence taken.:). Just pointing out what I know from owning the Traxide unit.

I find your build very interesting, and I'm getting ideas about what I can do on mine...:D

[drivesafe]

No offence taken.:).

Hi jonno and same here.

I’m curious to see how it works out, particularly your program settings.

Please keep us up to date with your set up.

[jonnyjon05]

Well the unit is in and I am very happy with the result.
Kicks in at idle to charge the second battery after a 10 second delay (13.7V).
When I hook up the charger to the back battery it starts charging the front.
Negligible voltage drop over the MOSFET (0.05 at most).

Step 1:
Buy a battery

Step 2:
If the battery is too big to fit, make it by:
Remove carpet covering the compartment and the main boot cover carpet.
Removing the aft vertical carpet by undoing the netting clips and tie down strap bolt.
Remove the popper clip and netting clips from the fwd carpet
Undo the plastic nuts on the plastic cover pop the popper clips on the outboard side of the panel and remove.
Cut as applicable, including channels underneath for cabling.
remove the wiring stud on the floor of the compartment and re route wire to inboard side.
Test and adjust fitment of battery and plastic panels.

Step 3:
Fit and wire the MOSFET and Terminal block in front of compartment;
I made my terminal block out of a fancy stereo battery terminals from Supercheap Auto and cut off the clamp end. I then put it in a sealed box cut holes for the wires and hot glue gunned it to the side of the compartment (photo 3).
I also combined my 8 gauge cable in to one crimp (photo 4) and hooked up my earth to the point in photo 5
To mount my MOSFET I cut part of my old number plate holder (bolt holes were the same spacing) and hot glue gunned it to the front of the compartment then bolted the MOSFET to it.

Step 4:
Fit battery.

Step 5:
Re assemble


Admittedly with the battery size I used this set up is not really revertible back to stock, as can be seen from the previous photos in this thread I had to modify the plastic trim to get it to fit. The MOSFET relay is a tidy well made unit built for the purpose, however expensive and requires you to do all the work your self.

Total Cost: $570
Battery: $300
Wire and Crimps: $30
Terminals: $40
MOSFET $200 + Postage

Total Time: 3 Hours
Fitment: 1 Hour
Cutting: 1 Hour
Wiring: 1 Hour

The MOSFET
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=76152&stc=1&d=1398516759

Final Install – carpet
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=76153&stc=1&d=1398516759

Terminal block.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=76154&stc=1&d=1398516759

Integrated wiring, almost never know it was there until you see the battery
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=76155&stc=1&d=1398516759

Ground wire attaches to the visible point and then runs into the loom down to the MOSFET (black wire).
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=76156&stc=1&d=1398516759

[drivesafe]

Hi Jonny and a very interesting set up.

Can I make one suggestion. Please secure the battery some how.

That could easily became one huge missile in an accident.

[jonnyjon05]

Hi Jonny and a very interesting set up.

Can I make one suggestion. Please secure the battery some how.

That could easily became one huge missile in an accident.

Suggestion no necessary.. See attached

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=76635&stc=1&d=1399238500

[BigJon]

It is hard to tell, what is holding the battery down?

[jonnyjon05]

The battery is a snug fit on the sides, I actually have to remove the loom on the inboard side and the plastic cover slide it forward and lift from the front first to get the thing out. If it is not dead straight it wont even budge. Also the carpeted panel in the picture is hard up against the battery and the edge of the popper clip panel overhangs the battery in the center which is why the handle is removed. I was thinking of a bracket, even brought one with the battery, however I am willing to risk my safety and that of all of the members of my family and all my friends on the belief that the mount is not necessary and the battery a secure fit.

My safety is paramount in anything that I do and while some will insist on a system that is bolted down in a more traditional fashion to me secured is secured and this battery is secure. Further the impact required to move that battery form its mounted position.. I doubt I will be walking away from..

That being said I have not crash tested it, I doubt anyone who has made there own second battery kit has crash tested it (by choice). So how do you know any battery kit is going to last a collision? You don't, you secure it and hope its secure enough. Or you could get an engineer to write a report considering every variable they can think of.

If you want to put a decent sized battery in the back of your rover and are skeptical about the security of the fitment or you just want to test it out be my guest, bring your engine crane and a seat belt to Canberra and have a crack at removing it.

Complementary coffee on arrival and I might even offer a prize.

[p38arover]

I came across an interesting comment about dual batteries on the FullFatRR forum by bgennette (also on this forum) in this thread (interesting in itself!): fullfatrr.com - View topic - L322 Trailer Wiring - How it should be done, with pictures ! (https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic36665.html)

I have a dual battery system and the main and extra batteries seem to be expiring sooner than expected.


* And now for the L322 Gotcha. The Engine Management Computer measures current load over the ground lead between the starting battery and the chassis along with voltage at the positive battery terminal in order to better manage charging of the starter battery. If a second battery is in parallel with the starting battery (even if it is behind a Voltage Controlled Switch) the EMC will become confused and will not charge either battery properly resulting in (dramatically) shortened battery life. The early model L322 (2002-2005) can avoid this by connecting all extra ground leads to the chassis (never to the starting battery's ground terminal). But later models have Euro 5 level battery management and require complete isolation of extra batteries via Direct Current to Direct Current step up/down Chargers. VCS is Ok for before 2006, but later models must use DC-DC Chargers instead.

My extra batteries are in the rear so the earth lead goes to the chassis, not to the starting battery.

[drivesafe]

Hi Ron, how often are you driving and/or charging your batteries?

[loanrangie]

I came across an interesting comment about dual batteries on the FullFatRR forum by bgennette (also on this forum) in this thread (interesting in itself!): fullfatrr.com - View topic - L322 Trailer Wiring - How it should be done, with pictures ! (https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic36665.html)

I have a dual battery system and the main and extra batteries seem to be expiring sooner than expected.



My extra batteries are in the rear so the earth lead goes to the chassis, not to the starting battery.That's normal Ron, can't think of any reason why you would run aux earth to neg of main battery.

[p38arover]

Hi Ron, how often are you driving and/or charging your batteries?

It's variable Tim. I've done just over 15,000km in the 18 months the batteries have been installed - the starting battery and AGM Aux batteries (2 x 45Ah) were bought within weeks of each other.

Some weeks I may not drive the car at all as we use my wife's Suby but other weeks will see me driving it every day - but not always for long runs. I put the CTek MXS7.0 onto the batteries regularly.


That's normal Ron, can't think of any reason why you would run aux earth to neg of main battery.

Nor I.

[drivesafe]

It's variable Tim. I've done just over 15,000km in the 18 months the batteries have been installed - the starting battery and AGM Aux batteries (2 x 45Ah) were bought within weeks of each other.

Some weeks I may not drive the car at all as we use my wife's Suby but other weeks will see me driving it every day - but not always for long runs. I put the CTek MXS7.0 onto the batteries regularly.
Hi Ron, and it sounds like your batteries may be fine and just need some reconditioning.

Have a look at the link and see if this helps your batteries.

On-Line auto electrical info (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/the-verandah/246755-line-auto-electrical-info-8.html)

[Dirtymonkey38]

Hi, sorry to revive an old thread, I have found my way here from fullfatrr after some interest in installing a dual battery/split charge system in my 2011 4.4TDV8. Are these still being made and shipping outside of Oz? UK RR owner.

[p38arover]

Send a PM to Drivesafe who makes them.

[DiscoMick]

Here is the Traxide website:

Home Page | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV Lithium Batteries (http://www.traxide.com.au/)

[drivesafe]

Hi, sorry to revive an old thread, I have found my way here from fullfatrr after some interest in installing a dual battery/split charge system in my 2011 4.4TDV8. Are these still being made and shipping outside of Oz? UK RR owner.
Hi Dirty and welcome to AULRO.

The kits for the L322 are not only still available, since I put up the installation video, they are now one of my most popular kits.

Here is the link to the video and either PM me or e-mail me if you want more info about the kits.

YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFFt6C-0qZQ&feature=youtu.be)

[Dirtymonkey38]

Thats brilliant. I have a spare Varta G14 battery i was planning on using if it would fit in the space in the rear cubby hole.

[irubix]

Hi DriveSafe, sent you a PM! [bigsmile1]