View Full Version : Bonnet Seal?
geodon
5th May 2012, 09:12 PM
Is there meant to be a seal between the bonnet & the top of the mudguards?
That gap must allow alot of water in.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1274.jpg
Or have I assembled it wrongly?
JayBoRover
5th May 2012, 09:44 PM
Mine has a small rubber block that the front of the bonnet sits on just near the latch on the guard. There is a large gap between the bonnet and the guard just like yours has. The bonnet rests on the radiator panel along the front edge only (and hangs from the hinges at the rear obviously). I'll add a photo tomorrow if no-one else has one.
Old Land Rovers are allowed to let a lot of water in as long as they let it out as easily.:D
JDNSW
6th May 2012, 06:09 AM
Is there meant to be a seal between the bonnet & the top of the mudguards?
That gap must allow alot of water in.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1274.jpg
Or have I assembled it wrongly?
It appears to be assembled correctly, and gap is normal. Any water in here is far less than comes in through the radiator when driving in rain. And any that does run in simply runs down the inner side of the guard, though the holes (if any) in the footwell onto the floor (or your feet) and thence to the ground through the holes in the floor. There should be a 'seal', actually more of a rubbing strip, along the top of the radiator panel where the bonnet hits it.
Late model Series 3 diesel had a rubber seal rivetted to the turned over edge of the bonnet, but this is for noise not water. Clip on door seal can be used for this if so desired.
John
chazza
6th May 2012, 07:16 AM
That gap would also be extremely useful for letting out excess heat from the engine bay.
Your car looks fantastic by the way :D
Cheers Charlie
geodon
6th May 2012, 07:53 AM
Yes, it's coming along nicely now.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1269.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1270.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1271.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1272.jpg
The rear panel is still floppy hence the wierd door gaps. It's only held on with vice grips until the window panel & roof are on. Only then will I drill new holes for the mounting bolts thru the new reinforced plates I installed.
The major things left:
Roof: so full of bog I thought it was fibreglass! And the inside is lined with shag pile carpet. This will be Limestone like the wheels.
Floor, seat box & seats: from an ex-army unit. This will be in Masai Red as per the body but I will use enamel instead of acrylic for durability. Black seats to match the door trim panels I intend buying.
Tray: a thing of beauty & functionality! Timber dropsides plus upper stake sides and a roof in weldmesh which will be in Gal or painted in cold Galvit where it's not.
The vehicle used to belong to the Mornington Peninsula (Vic) snake wrangler, ie the guy your wife rang when she found a Copperhead in the lounge room. The vision of cages of hissing reptiles in the back is enough to make my head spin! Yes, I dismantled it very carefully with thick gloves on.
clubagreenie
6th May 2012, 08:51 AM
1" +/- 1" = British Panel Gaps.
There should be a canvas type strip under the front edge of the bonnet though.
Reads90
6th May 2012, 09:39 AM
1" +/- 1" = British Panel Gaps.
There should be a canvas type strip under the front edge of the bonnet though.
Or as the BMW chiefs said when they took over land Rover. and this is true
" there are two things you can see from space. The great Wall in China and the panel gaps on a Land Rover ."
geodon
6th May 2012, 12:33 PM
Or as the BMW chiefs said when they took over land Rover. and this is true
" there are two things you can see from space. The great Wall in China and the panel gaps on a Land Rover ."
OMG, PMSL!!
Yes, I have the canvas strip over the radiator! It's a bit like the Dutch boy sticking his finger in the dyke wall while the embankment next door has collapsed!
geodon
6th May 2012, 01:02 PM
If your rear window clasps need work, ignore your MIG welder!
There is a VERY small pin which can be driven out with (at the most!) a 1/16th punch:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1261.jpg
It's hard to see until you wire brush off 50yrs oxidation!
If your drive this out, the spring loaded device comes out & you can get at the plungers.
Once again, DERRR!
geodon
6th May 2012, 01:12 PM
Woops!~
Wrong thread! Too much Mornington Peninsula Merlot!!
Ref the window glass thread.
chazza
6th May 2012, 01:18 PM
Yes, it's coming along nicely now.
This will be in Masai Red as per the body but I will use enamel instead of acrylic for durability.
Really; really, nice work!
I was told by the paint shop that acrylic is more durable and through experience, this seems to be borne-out by the amount of badly faded and chalky enamel on my Bedford truck,
Cheers Charlie
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