Installing front shocks ... problem

[Fluids]

Rear ones went in quick & easy :D ... front ones have become a lesson in frustration :mad:

Started on the front left, as per Rave & alternative posts/pic's on AULRO ... the strut tower won't come up through the inner guard as the brake lines from the ABS mod' are fouling the space ... and the intercooler pipe from the turbo outlet is in the way ....

Slunnie says he drops it all out from below. OK .... I disconnected the sway bar, and dropped the axle out until the prop shaft hits the crossbar .... nope. (Do I need to drop both sides at the same time) The tried the ratchet straps on the coil ... gave up on the premise that I might get it compressed far enough, but the ratchet releases with a BANG, and there's no clearance to fold the ratchet strap handle back 180 deg' to release the mechanisim ... and it there was, the spring is going to expand instantly .... :eek:

The front LH spring is a Purple/Purple ... is that standard fitment/length ? (2004 D2a Td5 Auto)

What am I doing wrong ?? It all looks soooooo easy on Rave and AULRO .... sigh :( If the strut tower would come out like it's supposed to it WOULD be easy.

... and then there's the RHS to do.

[Yorkie]

kev,
not sure what mods you have done to the top but that is how i have changed mine in the past removing the tower. bit of wriggling has always got it out.
if your not using spring compressors try putting the bottle jack between the axle/chassis and push the axle end down you are working on, might give just enough to remove the spring and shock. easier with spring compressors though. ;)

[999]

Have you tried using the d2 jack between the top of the diff and under the chassis .

[SiddersC]

I had a similar issue when I did my fronts, couldn't remove the tower completely, easiest way I found was to put a ratchet strap on the shock and compress that and use spring compressors on the spring, there is plenty of space to get the strap onto the shock and compress it from the top, then compress the spring until you can remove it, pull out the spring and then unbolt the shock top bolt and remove that, easy when you have done it!

[simonmelb]

I believe removing the crossbar will allow the struts to be lowered further and allow them to clear the guards. (I compressed the springs instead). Keep trying Kev !

[twr7cx]

Slunnie says he drops it all out from below. OK .... I disconnected the sway bar, and dropped the axle out until the prop shaft hits the crossbar .... nope.

Remove the crossbar. It's only 8 bolts.


The strut towers can be a rear pain to get out through the top. I have done this before but it was crud and required a crowbar to encourage it.

[Fluids]

How easy was that ! :)

LHS done ... time for a bite to eat.

Compress the springs a bit with the ratchet straps (after unbolting the brake/abs lines from the lower spring perch - making room for one of the ratchet straps levers), then jack the diff down ...
(seems the tailshaft wasn't on the crossmember like it looked, but it's close) ... and then lift the spring out .... pop the shock up the tower, sit the spring back in, release the bottle jack & then jack the axle up to contain the spring then release the ratchets straps. I couldn't believe how easy that was :angel:

Dinners finished ... Going to do the otherside now ...

[OffTrack]

The official remove/refit procedure was revised in 2005. There are a number of differences, including undoing the outlet hose on the turbo.

LT204-002 - Discovery II - Method Change: Front Damper Renew
TOPIx - 204 Suspension (http://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/topix/content/document//lookup/select?groupId=105&cat=BULLETINS)

[Fluids]

The official remove/refit procedure was revised in 2005. There are a number of differences, including undoing the outlet hose on the turbo.

LT204-002 - Discovery II - Method Change: Front Damper Renew
TOPIx - 204 Suspension (http://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/topix/content/document//lookup/select?groupId=105&cat=BULLETINS)


... now he tells me :angel:

Can't access that info/link Paul ... ??

[Slunnie]

Well done with it.

I use spring compressors on the springs though. They already scare the hell out of me with the energy stored in them. You're a much braver man than me by using a ratchet strap!

[OffTrack]

Looks like the link only works for a current session. Don't make life easy do they.

[Fluids]

Jobs done !

Didn't touch the tower this time .... axle stand under the chassis, lifted high, just compressed the spring with ratchets straps. undid the bottom shock bolts, jacked the axle down, compressed the shock (std LR shocks coming out / going in - no gas) up into the tower, and lifted the spring out, extened the shock, undid the top shock mount bolt, and drop the shock out ... reverse to install. That's how easy it's supposed to be ! :)

First use of my new ratcheting ring spanners .... don't know how I lived so long without a set of these. Brilliant !!

The gaiter on the front talishaft just compressed down onto the cross member just enough to prevent having to remove the cross member. This method is way easier than trying to remove the shock tower.

Changed the steering damper while I was at it as well. Full set of Fr & Rr and steering damper genuine LR shocks (for SLS vehicles - exactly the same p.no's as I took out) with approx' 10,000k's on them for $150 delivered ... not ready to do a lift just yet, but the old shocks were 160k old and I'm tired of the body roll, and the rubber bushes are much softer/weaker than the ones that went in (btw thanks to twr7cx for the hardware !)

I can keep saving now for some billies/sls blocks & all the gear needed to do the lift right first time.

... and btw, a swaybar disconnect is invaluable doing this otherwise the swaybar wants to hold the axle up.

Thanks for the help folks! :) For a while there I thought the beast had beaten me ...

[twr7cx]

I use spring compressors on the springs though. They already scare the hell out of me with the energy stored in them. You're a much braver man than me by using a ratchet strap!

Agreed.

[Fluids]

Well done with it.

I use spring compressors on the springs though. They already scare the hell out of me with the energy stored in them. You're a much braver man than me by using a ratchet strap!

Thank you Simon ...

Brave or stupid ? ;)

That's why I gave up first time round ... WAY too much stored energy and the spring was no where near compressed enough ... but jacking the axle down meant I didn't have to compress the spring anywhere near as far as the first attempt (std spring, not a lifted spring), and the ratchet straps weren't excessivley tight ... and I don't own any spring compressors ... never needed them ... in fact, this is the first time I've ever changed shocks on any vehicle I've owned.

.... now if I was putting a 2" lifted spring in, I don't think the ratchet straps would cut it :eek:

[Slunnie]

Mind you, this has got me thinking about how to pull it apart with bilsteins in the front and the force that they always want to be open with. The ratchet straps might be really good there to compress them.

[twr7cx]

Mind you, this has got me thinking about how to pull it apart with bilsteins in the front and the force that they always want to be open with. The ratchet straps might be really good there to compress them.

You can close the shockies by hand. I have done numerous times.

[alpick]

I used ratchet straps front and rear to install springs and bilsteins, very good for compressing the bilstein pre charge when fitting the shocks. Makes doing it solo a breeze.

[OffTrack]

I'm not sure the revised fitting instructions would really make much of a difference given the hoops everyone seems to be jumping through.


This is the revised procedure for the Td5 LH Damper as an example. The procedure no longer requires jacking the vehicle or removing the road wheel. Either LR don't have a clue or AULROistas are making a simple job much harder than it needs to be?

The billable time allowance for each side is 18 minutes.


Damper - LH - renew - Land Rover, Discovery Series II (LT), Td5
Remove

Disconnect battery ground lead. For additional information,
refer to Global Technical Reference (GTR) Discovery Series
II Workshop Manual Section CHARGING AND STARTING,
Battery (86.15.01).



Release the retaining clip and disconnect the charge air cooler hose from the turbocharger.

Remove the bolt securing the top of the damper though the damper turret.

Remove the four nuts securing the damper turret base to the chassis. Refer to illustration on Step 5.

Compress the damper downwards.

Care must be taken to avoid damage to the brake pipes. Release the damper turret from the chassis and manoeuvre out from the engine bay.

Remove the two bolts securing the bottom of the damper to the axle.

Remove damper.

Install
Install damper and align the lower bolt holes.

Install and tighten the bolts securing the damper lower mounting to 45 Nm (33 lbf.ft).
10.
Maneuver the damper turret in to position and align the damper top mounting in the damper turret.
Install the bolt securing the top of the damper to the damper turret, but do not tighten at this stage.

Install the retaining nuts securing the damper turret to the chassis and tighten to 23 Nm (17 lbf.ft).

Tighten the damper upper retaining bolt to 125 Nm (92
lbf.ft).

Install charge air cooler hose to turbocharger and secure the retaining clip.


Connect the battery ground lead. For additional information,
refer to Global Technical Reference (GTR) Discovery Series
II Workshop Manual Section CHARGING AND STARTING,
Battery (86.15.01)

[Fluids]

Thanks Paul .... I note item 5.

Care must be taken to avoid damage to the brake pipes. :eek:

If I had of perservered with removal of the LH shock tower, I reckon I'd be replacing brake pipes ... the method written appears to be quick & simple IF all goes according to plan ... ;)

Much easier to just take the wheel off to get access imho.

My way took longer but was way less stressful ... to me :)

[CJT]

When I fitted the replacement Bilsteins in my D2 (V8 with ACE), two days after fitting the first set, I simply removed the shock turrets from the engine bay and lifted the shocks out.

From memory it was rather easy and took around 30 minutes to replace both shocks and not much more than an hour to repalce all four on the vehicle.

Seems like there is more in the way on the TD5 though.

[Hay Ewe]

When I fitted the replacement Bilsteins in my D2 (V8 with ACE), two days after fitting the first set, I simply removed the shock turrets from the engine bay and lifted the shocks out.

From memory it was rather easy and took around 30 minutes to replace both shocks and not much more than an hour to repalce all four on the vehicle.

Seems like there is more in the way on the TD5 though.

this is exactly what I did on my 04 TD5, no problem. i found the hardest part was getting a good access on to the bolts holding teh lower end of the front shocks on. the coils of the spring were just a bit in the way.

I jacked him up, high, put him axle stands, wheels off, so the front axle could hang as low as it wanted and easy.

I also followed the Haynes manual.

Hay Ewe

[It'sNotWorthComplaining!]

... now he tells me :angel:

Can't access that info/link Paul ... ??
I believe you need an account and password to view

[OffTrack]

I believe you need an account and password to view

you'll actually need a subscription to access the content of the bulletins. The account and password are free and give you access to additional information above and beyond browsing.

it costs about $5 for an hour or $8 per day to access the tech bulletins. There are quite a few changed procedures released since the final RAVE CD was published in 2002.

[Tombie]

Well done with it.

I use spring compressors on the springs though. They already scare the hell out of me with the energy stored in them. You're a much braver man than me by using a ratchet strap!

Why are you needing to use spring compressors?

I've done 2 D2s now with Lovells 4" springs...

Just fitted by hand....

[Fluids]

Well, just to update this ... with the new (old) shocks in, and a trip to Lithgow for some offroading last weekend, I'm really pleased with the ride imprevement :)

The old units were 120k old when we bought the disco, and I thought it rode nice ... now with the 10k units in it's amazing ... and way better offroad.

Feels like a new car :)

Thanks for the assistance everyone.

... and YAY, I've popped 2000 posts and didn't even realize :eek:

[stallie]

Just did my left front. Couldn't undo the bolt in the top without starting to burr... :o

Undid the tower, and the shocks at the bottom.

Undid the turbo hose (as I'm replacing it with silicone anyway) and the whole tower and shock was able to wriggle out gently. All good.

now for the rest :D

[stallie]

Didn't work on the other side as the ACE pipes were in the way, and I didn't want to bend them too far.

I dropped it out through the bottom using the ratchet strap compression method - pulling the spring up.

[twr7cx]

I changed my front springs and shockies today. I:
jacked the vehicle up.
Axel stands under the bullbar.
Wheels off.
Removed the ABS cable and brake line front the spring seat bracket.
Removed the through bolt at the top of the shock absorber.
Removed the lower bolt on the panhard rod.
Removed the lower bolts on the shock absober.
Stood on the wheel hub and pushed the diff down while jiggling the spring and shock absorber out.
Reverse procedure for fitting.

All up about two hours from start to pack up. Admittedly this is the third or fourth time I have done the front on a Discovery 2.

Note: I have a 2" spacer lift in addition to the spring lift, for someone without this you may have to also remove the front crossmember as the tailshaft can hit it.

[Andrew D]

Gents

What shocks do you recommend? Bilstein are a no go from what I have been told due to ACE.

I have a D2a 2003 with ACE and not SLS. 95% on sealed road and 5% unsealed roads.

Are Dobinson any good? (about $285 for a pair I think). Plan to do all 4 plus the steering damper.

Also what's the latest news with regards to fitting. Has anyone tried fitting without jacking the car.

Regards
Andrew

(This is the 2012 Xmas project)

[Tombie]

Who told you that BS ;)

Billies are fine. Some get slight valving changes made is all.

As for fitting, depends how you want to go about it.

[winaje]

Gents

What shocks do you recommend? Bilstein are a no go from what I have been told due to ACE.

I have a D2a 2003 with ACE and not SLS. 95% on sealed road and 5% unsealed roads.

Are Dobinson any good? (about $285 for a pair I think). Plan to do all 4 plus the steering damper.

Also what's the latest news with regards to fitting. Has anyone tried fitting without jacking the car.

Regards
Andrew

(This is the 2012 Xmas project)

Andrew, I have a 2000 with the same spec and usage, I'm looking at the +45mm Dobinsons/Bilsteins combo below, seems to be a good match from my research... (No affiliation with vendor)

Bilstein Shocks (front) BE5B994 (rear) BE5B995 $1000 Discovery Series 2 2" lift Bilstein Shocks X4, Suspension Stuff (http://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop/product_info.php?products_id=535)

Bilstein rear stone guards $50 Discovery Series 2 Bilstein Shock Stone Guards, Suspension Stuff (http://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop/product_info.php?products_id=1834)

Dobinson Springs +45mm front c51-042 rear c51-015 $350 Discovery Series 2 2" Lift Dobinsons Coils Springs X4, Suspension Stuff (http://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/shop/product_info.php?cPath=1980_27_94_113&products_id=1261)

[walker]

Does anyone know what the spring rate of the Dobinson coils are? I just had a feeling they were very hard.

[AndyW]

Hi have done a 2inch lift and shock replacement on both a V8 and a TD5 now. Both 2004 D2A's.
I found the Terra Firma's video on a 3 inck lift to be spot on. You can find it here...

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/121657-terrafirrma-3in-lift-install-video-3.html

The shock towers definitely come out through the top on both motors. From memory on the V8 I has to remove the MAF and ajoining pipes on the passenger side and it was fairly straight forward on the drivers side. On the TD5 it was the same on the passenger side. (you need to do a fair bit of wiggling past the ABS and turbo hoses but it will come without too much drama) On the drivers side is a bit tougher on the TD5. You need to lift your expansion tank out of the way. No need to remove any hoses just unclip it and pull it up out of the way to allow the shock tower to pass. There is a bit of a knack to it but not too difficult though. I must say the guy in the video makes pushing the lifted springs into place a lot easier than it actually is. It was all I could do to push a 2 inch lift spring in. You would need a fair bit of fore arm strength to get the 3 inch spring in I would imagine. This is definitely harder on the driver side as the prop shaft contacts the cross bar. I was however able to get enough articulation on the axel on both vehiles to allow doing the job without removing the cross bar.

I did both vehicles at home on the drive way with a trolley jack, bottle jack and stands. It would be well within most peoples abilities as long as you have a very basic mechanical knowledge and the jacks and stands. Just make sure the stands are well placed and I kept the trolley jack under the axel at all times as well just incase anthing went astray.

[AndyW]

Does anyone know what the spring rate of the Dobinson coils are? I just had a feeling they were very hard.

Not sure on the actual spring rate but I can confirm that the 2 inch lift Dobinson constant loads I have in the front of my TD5 are considerably firmer than the Brit Parts Constant loads I had in my V8.

[winaje]

Does anyone know what the spring rate of the Dobinson coils are? I just had a feeling they were very hard.

Thanks Adam, this is a good question. Hopefully someone knows...

[Andrew D]

Who told you that BS ;)

Billies are fine. Some get slight valving changes made is all.

As for fitting, depends how you want to go about it.


These guys (eshocks.com: Shocks and Struts: Discovery II (http://www.eshocks.com/bil_veh.asp?Model_Index=0Q58&Manf=All&SubChar=Q)) have confirmed it. Also there site indicates it. The same comments is made on other site which sell Bilstein.

By the way these guys have quoted me $750 for all four shocks plus the steering damper including delivery (US $). Pity they are not suitable. Great price.

Regards
Andrew

[Tombie]

These guys (eshocks.com: Shocks and Struts: Discovery II (http://www.eshocks.com/bil_veh.asp?Model_Index=0Q58&Manf=All&SubChar=Q)) have confirmed it. Also there site indicates it. The same comments is made on other site which sell Bilstein.

By the way these guys have quoted me $750 for all four shocks plus the steering damper including delivery (US $). Pity they are not suitable. Great price.

Regards
Andrew

That's funny!!!

Eshocks supplied my 7100s and I run them with off the shelf valving!
The only difference is slightly different rebound settings on "ACE" shocks.

It's not a drastic issue and std will work just fine...

Just get them and fit them.

[Andrew D]

That's funny!!!

Eshocks supplied my 7100s and I run them with off the shelf valving!
The only difference is slightly different rebound settings on "ACE" shocks.

It's not a drastic issue and std will work just fine...

Just get them and fit them.


I'm obviously too cautious. I did ask a second time to confirm so I'm not willing to risk using something when the advice clealy recommends not to.

I also asked if they had a alternative (Bilstein), to which they don't.

I'm also dubious when more than one website (pretty sure it was the 'Bilstein' Site) notes the same advice. Must be for a good reason.

Regards
Andrew

[Tombie]

Or it could just be they haven't duplicated the same valving and won't commit to ride quality!

Have you fitted aftermarket springs?

The vehicle manufacturer doesn't recommend these either!

Or bullbars and non OEM products...

It's called backside covering!!!!

[Andrew D]

Sometimes it is just baskside covering and then sometimes it's for a good reason. I'm thinking this is for a good reason. I did give the sales people the opportunity to offer an alternative as well.

The truck is currently all genuine. I wasn't that keen on the blue and yellow anyway. I just want good quality. Genuine are around $145 each plus postage from the UK so probably another $150.

Regards
Andrew

[Roberto]

Bilsteins may be fine on the bitumen, and indeed mine were. But they self immolated on corrugations.

The first sign of trouble was smoke coming from the engine bay. Both Billies looked very unhappy. With no option other than to press on slowly, it was soon apparent that the Billies had let go and the front of the car was wallowing up and down like a boat.

Before too long the left side Billie had completely disintegrated, and managed to jam itself cross way through the spring. It was jammed against the tyre and the car was going nowhere.

Yes, conditions were extreme, but the shocks were less than a year old and this was their first major trip.

I have changed over to Tough Dog adjustables. They have survived the same trip, which makes them a better shock than the Bilstein, but its too soon to comment about their longevity.

[walker]

I had to laugh at this as my experience is the exact opposite.

In my last Disco I started with tough dog adjustables and they only managed to make it through 1/2 a Simpson trip before the failed to continue dampening properly.
Once back home I ended up forking out the money on the Billstein 994/995 and they were fantastic through another 3 Simpson Trips and a Madigans Line which would be the hardest trip in australia on Shocks.

I think you must have had a faulty pair or they were not valved correctly for the vehicle.


I have just ordered Koni heavy duty shocks for the new Disco. I liked the look of the Raids but after looking around the Koni's HD's had the best stroke while still having the correct closed length.

[mattg]

Dobinson shocks and stock springs are holding up well. No Simpson trips to test them but happy so far might get around to the lifted springs soon. In the shed just need time to make the sliders so family can get in

[Andrew D]

Adam & Roberto,

Do you have ACE on your vehicles? As I noted earlier, the Bilstein were not suitable for rigs with ACE. This is with reference to their current product for D2s.

Also, I pressed on with some more research outside of the forum and one of the more reputable Land Rover service centres in Brisbane is no longer in the Bilstein game. They have changed to Terrafirma. Apparently to many problems with Bilsteins.

Anyhow, by Monday/Tuesday I will have finalised the transaction for Terrafirma All Terrains. Will let you know the price when it's confirmed but there's going to be a fair bit of spare change to spend on tools (and this is with reference to all that I have looked at).

Regards
Andrew

[walker]

Yes, I had ACE, never had a problem. The 994/995's were designed in Austrslia specifically for the D2 and only available here.

I looked at Terrafirma this time, but they are just not long enough extended. It is almost pointless having a lift with shocks that ate the same length as standard, your travel will be severely limited.

[TD50WA]

"not recommended for vehicles with ace?"

How? Why?

Ace is not connected to the shocks, it is a sway bar mechanism. It does not inhibit the up and down motion of the car, the car can freely bounce as much as it likes, the is why d2s with ace had softer springs from the factory to give a more supple ride - ace was an "upmarket" ride experience - this info from LR factory sales site.
ace only assists with turning and uses accelerometers to activate so traveling in a straight line and having wheels go up and down will not activate ace.

Simple to test...drive down a bit of selected track, then return to start. Pull ace fuse and drive the same track again, I doubt you will find any difference in the shock feel......I'm talking straight line here not bendy roads.....and if there is bends, remember your ace is switched off!

If someone can show me factory references to state that special shocks are needed for ace vehicles....because of the ace and NOT the softer spring rates, or valid information to show otherwise, then I doubt that ace would cause any damage to any shocks.......in fact as an afterthought, maybe Bilstein shocks are not valved correctly for the softer springs in the ace vehicles and not anything to do with the ace itself?....an issue which is negated with replacement springs anyway.

If you have springs in your car that are nice around town and give a great comfy ride, then these are more likely to cause your shocky damage on trips when your car is all loaded up......the springs will be way too soft to deal with the extra considerable weight of all your kit. I have a set of medium springs for normal use, and a set of hds for trips....it only takes a short time to change the rears over, front stays same as bar etc stays on....

I have billies with king lifted springs on an ace vehicle.....been on plenty of bumpy roads, nil issues for me sofar.....I love the ride they give too.

Re Terrafirma, I believe their shocks for the D2 are +2" and their Prosport model is available in +3", but as yet they are not available in the remote res series, pity....

[walker]

.Re Terrafirma, I believe their shocks for the D2 are +2" and their Prosport model is available in +3", but as yet they are not available in the remote res series, pity....


The +2" are still not as long extended as the Koni and not even as long as the extended Bilsteins. I am pretty sure the +3" are to long closed without some modifications.

[TD50WA]

.Re Terrafirma, I believe their shocks for the D2 are +2" and their Prosport model is available in +3", but as yet they are not available in the remote res series, pity....


The +2" are still not as long extended as the Koni and not even as long as the extended Bilsteins. I am pretty sure the +3" are to long closed without some modifications.

I think I remember reading that new bump stops had to be fitted with the +3s...I'll stick to billies anyway:D.

[Andrew D]

For all interested these are the sites I have referred to for Bilstein

Bilstein*Shocks:*99-04*Discovery Series II (except "ACE" system); Front: Coil / Rear: Coil* - eShocks.com: (http://www.eshocks.com/bil_Ind.asp?VC=47Q10&SubChar=Q)

Parts catalogue (http://web1.carparts-cat.com/default.aspx?230=1&36=0&35=171&32=10943&34=0,100011,100121&14=4&10=D0F0E5D12439D1B7E040A8C0143E0A21018004&12=130)

Regards
Andrew

[TD50WA]

Aftermarket store, not Bilstein site, site has no reference as to why not suitable for ace.
Does not give link to model that is suitable....

An Internet search will show that this has been questioned many times. Contact with vendors returns a "no idea why they are different", its also been noted that the valving is slightly different, but again no one appears to know why or by how much. Many vendors and others have used bilsteins and other shocks marked "not for ace" for many years with no apparent issues.
The general consensus is that ace has no effect on the shocks.




Cheers

[Andrew D]

The second one is the Bilstein site. It keeps reverting back to German so you have to go back to the home page to read it unless you can read German. It notes not to be used with pneumatic suspension.

Regards
Andrew

[OffTrack]

ACE isn't pneumatic suspension.

[Andrew D]

True, therefore it makes me wonder if eShocks think it is? I didn't pursue it any further with them after I got them to recheck.

Regards
Andrew

[OffTrack]

It's possible the "not suitable" clause has been mistranslated. I could understand if what was originally intended was "not suitable for SLS" on the grounds the shocks can't accommodate the extended off road position.

[jwb]

I have just ordered Koni heavy duty shocks for the new Disco. I liked the look of the Raids but after looking around the Koni's HD's had the best stroke while still having the correct closed length.

Hi Adam. Do you have SLS? I've got Koni HD on my 02 ES. They are much longer than OEM and I don't know if they will overstretch the air bags. Any idea? I have had to extend the ABS and brake lines on the rear. Was going to try and jack up one side and eyeball the shock and air bag extension.

[walker]

No. I had SLS on a previous D2, but not on this one. I already have extended brake lines and abs lines so it should be fine. I am going tone going up 4" , cutting guards and running 35's.

[walker]

Hi Adam. Do you have SLS? I've got Koni HD on my 02 ES. They are much longer than OEM and I don't know if they will overstretch the air bags. Any idea? I have had to extend the ABS and brake lines on the rear. Was going to try and jack up one side and eyeball the shock and air bag extension.

If you have SLS then you will definitely over extend the airbags. When I did have SLS I used to run with 2" spacers under the airbag. Not sure where you get them from these days but I am sure someone can point you in the right direction. They are not cheap but you MUST use them if you are running the longer Koni's.
I know from personal experience what happens if you don't. I was running the extended Bilsteins, but at one point I was looking to sell the vehicle so I pulled out the spacers under the airbags and changed front springs to bring the vehicle back to normal height. However I didn't change the shocks and then a few months later on a trip I managed to pull the top off the airbag after it was over extended!!!

[jwb]

I have the spacers under the bags so hopefully will be ok. thanks

[walker]

That will be fine

[biggin]

I have had 2" spacers under my air bags and +2 Terrafirma shocks for a few years now, with no problems (even in extended mode).
The ride is a little harsh though.

[Andrew D]

Anyhow, by Monday/Tuesday I will have finalised the transaction for Terrafirma All Terrains. Will let you know the price when it's confirmed but there's going to be a fair bit of spare change to spend on tools (and this is with reference to all that I have looked at).

$320 for all five shocks delivered. Excellent price.

Part No. TF118, 119 and 802

Yes, a lot of spare change for tools.

Regards
Andrew

[jwb]

I find the Koni's much more 'supple' than the previous OME's. Very nice ride but have yet to have them on an extended rough trip. The OME's were awful on corrugations so keen to see how these go.

[walker]

I find the Koni's much more 'supple' than the previous OME's. Very nice ride but have yet to have them on an extended rough trip. The OME's were awful on corrugations so keen to see how these go.

Remember you can adjust the rebound on the Koni shocks. It is probably too late now for you, but it is well worth checking the setting on the shocks before installing.
I installed some extra long raids into my Rangie a couple of years ago. I never thought they were quite right. They were very hard and one side moved around more than the other. So I removed the rears and found that they had arrived with different adjustments on them. I adjusted both to the middle setting and they were great.

[jwb]

Thanks Adam. That has been on my to do list for a little while - ironically the reason for following this thread. Rears I can do easily, it's the front ones I'm concerned about getting in and out.

cheers, John

[Andrew D]

All

Procedure on how to replace all four shocks and the steering dampner. Another one for the D2 DIYers (specifically V8)

As I mentioned earlier I purchased all five shocks from OS (Britcar-UK) $320 including delivery. The price I received in Australia was $127 per shock so I bought some new tools with the spare change :D

Mine were stuffed, genuine shocks on the car with 140k on the clock. All would compress and not retract so can only assume the ACE and springs were working overtime.

Regards
Andrew

[OffTrack]

Nice guide Andrew, although I found this after I'd done the job.

On the TD5 I found that undoing the metal pipe between the turbo and intercooler at both ends and moving it out of the way made it far easier to get the turret clear on the passenger side. If you only undo at the turbo end you can't move the pipe sufficiently and the turret still fouls.

I used a 13mm socket plus 500mm 1/2" extension and ratchet on the turret nuts in the engine bay. It's probably a bit too long but gives good clearance from all the ancillaries and make getting the nuts on an off a doddle.

cheers
Paul

[OffTrack]

I had to wind back the adjustment on my new Koni Heavy Tracks so decided to try out the LR no jack method. It's absolutely doable and quicker than jacking the car up and taking the wheels off.

As far as I can see the only advantage to jacking is that you don't need to scrabble around on the ground as much. The access to the rear lower suspension bush bolt is slightly easier with the wheel off, but that is about it. The upside is it's easier to work on the turrets with the guard at normal ride height - a big plus for a short-arse like myself.

I'd not bother jacking unless you were doing the springs as well.

I was able to remove and replace all four shocks in under 2 hours, although this was the second run in 2 days so that counts for a bit ;)

cheers
Paul

[Andrew D]

Dennis

Some reading relating to shocks in this post.

Regards
Andrew

[RisingSun]

Andrew_D did you find the rear of your disco very bouncy when under 40km/h? Almost like the Shocks weren't dampening the bounce, but fine when traveling over 60km/h?

[twr7cx]

My method is to leave the strut tower secured in place. Undo the shock at the bottom and top. Push the shock up (compress it) through the spring, jiggle the spring out, take the shock out through the bottom.

Refit is the opposite.

This has worked with both OEM, IronMan and Bilstein shocks for me. Including with the LRA White Tiger spacers installed.

[Orch]

Well done with it.

I use spring compressors on the springs though. They already scare the hell out of me with the energy stored in them. You're a much braver man than me by using a ratchet strap!

Yeh this! I don't like spring compressors let alone a ratchet stap! :eek:

[joel0407]

Yeh this! I don't like spring compressors let alone a ratchet stap! :eek:

The comment was that he used the ratchet strap for the shock, not the spring.

I used those pull down straps on the springs so no extra leverage other than my own strength. I only managed to get them down by less than an inch. It was just enough to slide them in.

I think the differance is you can't get a very big ratchet strap on the spring when fitting so it's not going to be holding a whole lot of force like spring compressors can.

Happy Days

[twr7cx]

If you disconnect one end of the panhard rod then you do not need to compress the springs (provided your front tailshaft doesn't hit the crossmember which may be an issue on a standard setup). You can just push the front diff down until the springs are at their full length and then pull them straight out.

[Andrew D]

Andrew_D did you find the rear of your disco very bouncy when under 40km/h? Almost like the Shocks weren't dampening the bounce, but fine when traveling over 60km/h?

I haven't noticed this. I see what I experience over the weekend but I'm pretty sure I don't experience the bounce at 40 km/hr.

Regards
Andrew

[Andrew D]

If you disconnect one end of the panhard rod then you do not need to compress the springs (provided your front tailshaft doesn't hit the crossmember which may be an issue on a standard setup). You can just push the front diff down until the springs are at their full length and then pull them straight out.

On a standard setup I think you could follow this method without removing the panhard rod.

Jack the car as high as you can with the bottle jack, place a car stand under the car on the chassis. Remove the jack. Place the jack under the front diff near the relevant shock and take the jack up to support the diff. Remove the tyre. Remove the lower bolt in the shock. Lower the jack supporting the diff.

This should now allow sufficient room to remove the spring. It might need a little bit of jiggling or compression but not much. Brakes lines have enough length as well.

Regards
Andrew

[joel0407]

On a standard setup I think you could follow this method without removing the panhard rod.

Jack the car as high as you can with the bottle jack, place a car stand under the car on the chassis. Remove the jack. Place the jack under the front diff near the relevant shock and take the jack up to support the diff. Remove the tyre. Remove the lower bolt in the shock. Lower the jack supporting the diff.

This should now allow sufficient room to remove the spring. It might need a little bit of jiggling or compression but not much. Brakes lines have enough length as well.

Regards
Andrew

Doesn't work. There is too much bind in the bushes. I've tried. You need to do both at once.

Bottle jack to full height. Disconnect the sway bar. Axle stands under the chassis as high as possible (scary, I know) wheel off and lower. Do the same on the next side. You need both shocks disconnected to get the axle to drop enough. Removing the cross member is only 4 bolts if the drive shaft touches. With the brakes a couple of mm off the ground, I still needed to compress the springs slightly.

The bind seems to be in the control arms, not the pan hard rod.

Happy Days.

[Tombie]

You lot make it hard, 4" springs easy, no spring compressor, only shocks unbolted...
Very easy...

[twr7cx]

The bind seems to be in the control arms, not the pan hard rod.

I find that hard to believe. I have fitted +2" springs with 2" spacers underneath them without any compressing at all. There's enough drop in the standard arms to get that in.

[joel0407]

I find that hard to believe. I have fitted +2" springs with 2" spacers underneath them without any compressing at all. There's enough drop in the standard arms to get that in.



Yes. As long as you do both sides at the same time. If you only do one side, the second side won't drop.


Happy days.

[twr7cx]

Yes. As long as you do both sides at the same time. If you only do one side, the second side won't drop.

Ah ok. I guess usually when I change shocks or springs I'd do both sides.

[joel0407]

Ah ok. I guess usually when I change shocks or springs I'd do both sides.



I always change them in pairs but I've tried to do one then the other. I couldn't work out for while what was holding it up. Shock was off, sway bar off, I thought there couldn't be anything stopping it dropping to the floor. The control arms obviously don't twist and rely on the pins twisting in the rubber bushes.


Happy days

[Pedro_The_Swift]

anyone run Rancho's before. I put a set on my off road datto and they were superb,,
just wondering if this is a typo, seems wonderfully cheap!
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits-Suspensions-Shocks/4-Rancho-RS9000XL-Shocks-with-4-Red-Shock-Boots.aspx't_c=1&t_s=90&t_pt=3306&t_pn=S%2fDShockingRS9000XL