CDL Home Made lever idea...

[Disco Muppet]

G'day all
I'm currently assembling all the pieces for the standard home made CDL lever, which is the drive extensions and uni joints idea.
The one thing that has had me racking my brains is how to make a suitable handle, so that its out of the way, works well, and looks reasonably pretty :D
My idea is I keep the socket on the end of the drive extender, and construct a small, detachable lever out of another drive extender, have the socket just protruding from the base panel of the centre console, with some sort of plastic cap.
When you want to engage CDL, pop the cap off, insert the lever and twist.
Simple, reasonably unobtrusive, and would look pretty cool IMHO.
The two problems that I can think of are as follows:
1. Length of the drive extender. It's a 10" extension, and I don't want it sticking way up in the air. Could i simply cut the bottom end off, shape it so it will still fit in the first uni joint and then weld into place?
2. Size of the socket. The socket is considerably larger than the main part of the extension, thus meaning I have to drill larger holes in the centre console panel and the tranny plate. Is this an issue? Would it be worth making some sort of adapter plate to fit over the hole in the tranny plate, so that it wasn't quite so large after the socket fits through, or would it be better to just fit some rubber around it, or something similar?
If anyone has used the socket end for their lever, any advice on how to make it work?
cheers
Muppet.

P.S If pics are needed, let me know and ill put what's in my head into a visual form! :D

[Alex 110]

There is a thread on exactly this type of CDL actuator but I couldn't find it just now:(
Shouldn't have to drill into the transfer case - if you have the CDL internals, the actuator should be visible on top of the transfer case just behind the front output shaft. As for a big hole for the socket - why not connect the extension to the socket after putting the extension thru, so you only have to make the hole big enough for the extension bar.

[Alex 110]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/78614-cdl-activator-woohoo.html
found it!
Cheers,
Alex:)

[Disco Muppet]

Thanks Alex, but it's not the transfer case you need to drill!
It's the plate, between the top of the console and the transfer case itself :D
And I certainly could connect after drilling the holes, but that'd probably rule out welding it in place, as welding inside the bowels of a disco miiiiiiight not be a good idea! :D
Cheers for the input
Muppet

[Disco Muppet]

Anybody know how much force you need to activate CDL with the home made lever? Just wondering if my idea will provide enough mechanical advantage to turn the spigot.
Cheers
Muppet

[Alex 110]

Anybody know how much force you need to activate CDL with the home made lever? Just wondering if my idea will provide enough mechanical advantage to turn the spigot.
Cheers
Muppet

If the spigot hasnt' seized it doesn't take much force at all. You aren't actually locking the centre diff, just shifting a shaft and tensioning a spring which then locks the diff once everything lines up. Also, the CDL light doesn't come on until the diff is actually locked, unlike jap c@#p where the light comes on as soon as the transfer case lever/electric dash button is moved.

[Disco Muppet]

Yeah, I've done the 10mm spanner method before, just getting sick of it :)

[AussieAub]

Anybody know how much force you need to activate CDL with the home made lever? Just wondering if my idea will provide enough mechanical advantage to turn the spigot.
Cheers
Muppet

Very little force needed at all, assuming all is good with the internals.

Cheers,

[Adarewyr]

Hey guys, so I may just be retarded (likely) but I am pretty sure I do have the CDL internals, as I've got the stud with three bolts and the center stud on a td5 2000's d2, but I can't get a 10mm socket or spanner onto that stud. I've got a zoomed in photo from another forum of the bolt on that stud and it looks a lot bigger than what I can feel on my truck, and suggestions? I will try to get a video for myself to see what I can feel when I have some time in the sunlight. Really want to try get the CDL to work as the truck seems very capable with just the ETC on open diffs, managed to outdrive my rear lockered d23 on our first trip out

[Campaspe Man]

You can work out for sure by locating the stamped number on your transfer case, and then checking it against lists that are published identifying which transfer cases have the internals. I suspect that Ashcrofts in the UK have the list, as they manufacture and sell a retrofit transfer box locking mechanism. Hopefully a 2000 box will have the internals.

I fitted the Ashcroft to my 99 D2. It makes a huge difference on gravel/loose surfaces, and frankly I hardly ever seem to lose enough traction for the electronic system to be needed.

Myles

[AK83]

Hey guys, so I may just be retarded (likely) but I am pretty sure I do have the CDL internals, as I've got the stud with three bolts and the center stud on a td5 2000's d2, but I can't get a 10mm socket or spanner onto that stud. I've got a zoomed in photo from another forum of the bolt on that stud and it looks a lot bigger than what I can feel on my truck, and suggestions? I will try to get a video for myself to see what I can feel when I have some time in the sunlight. Really want to try get the CDL to work as the truck seems very capable with just the ETC on open diffs, managed to outdrive my rear lockered d23 on our first trip out

If you have the 3 bolt cover and the stud, you have CDL internals.
approx 2002 models don't have the internals, or external hardware for locking diff ... don't need to ask me how I know this!! [bigwhistle]

There's a very good chance that you have the spanner in the wrong location, or the shaft is heavily mucked up with hardened gunk ... half of which is probably baked on gear oil! [biggrin]
IIRC, the two flats on the stud line up pretty well with the front and rear of the car, i.e. longitudinally. So if you start with your 10mm open end spanner(not socket!!) to get a feel for the flats on the shaft coming in from the front, and just keep trying. If you have an angled spanner, the most likely orientation of the spanner handle will be approx above the pass side front bolt of the 3 bolt cover, as it kind of gets in the way a bit.

if it is gunked up badly, maybe try getting a small screw driver on it to scrape it a bit, see if anything flakes off. You can get your hand up and onto it to get a feel for the orientation of the flats to be sure.

Don't use socket or ring spanner, has to be a open end spanner, as the shaft, which is circular has two flats, and that's where the spanner sits.

Just remember that you're not trying to turn the nut(if fitted). You're trying to turn a shaft that has a small protrusion where a 10mm spanner will fit onto the flat of the shaft.

[Adarewyr]

Hey guys I've got the lever from a d1 installed now, was surprised how easily it all went together tbh. A couple of issues I've got now are I cannot seem to select N or L I'm stuck in 4H, although it was also stupidly difficult before I changed the levers etc over. Second issue I've got is the diff lock light won't show on the dashboard, although I have had it on there before when I've been playing around, is this where I need to get the newer slab computer to allow me to have CDL and the TC on? I'm a roofer not a mechanic so this is all new territory for me

[V8Ian]

The lever can be very stiff, if the transfer has not been regularly changed.

[sierrafery]

... is this where I need to get the newer slab computer to allow me to have CDL and the TC on? ...
Yes

[AK83]

..... A couple of issues I've got now are I cannot seem to select N or L I'm stuck in 4H, although it was also stupidly difficult before I changed the levers etc over. ....

My D1(auto), when I first bought it, was same, super hard to get it to L or H once it did move either way. set trans into N or or manual into neutral to make it easier too, sometimes just a small amount of movement can get it to mesh in easier too. Once it got moving, just kept doing it a few times and it 'freed' something up and then it was easier from then on.

D2(also auto) was easy to move from H to L and vise versa from the get go.

I remember the owner I bought the D1 from never even knew about diff lock, nor High Low ... was surprised it was there when I tested it on the test drive.
D2 owner was a bit more of an off road type person, so I assume the lever got a bit more of a workout.

[Tins]

D2(also auto) was easy to move from H to L and vise versa from the get go.



Mine is locked out unless in P or N. But then, mine also has two levers...

[admiralranga]

Mine is locked out unless in P or N. But then, mine also has two levers...

Least from experience (limited) and the hand book the trick is to drop it into N and change range while the car is still moving under its own momentum.

[AK83]

Least from experience (limited) and the hand book the trick is to drop it into N and change range while the car is still moving under its own momentum.

Yeah, I think it even says on the centre console label, up to either 5 or 8k/h or something.

But weird how (for me), one was as hard as Adarewyr says(D1), was nigh on impossible to move, then slowly freed itself up over time. But the other(D2) snicks in and out easily(if in P or N)

[Tins]

Least from experience (limited) and the hand book the trick is to drop it into N and change range while the car is still moving under its own momentum.Yep, can do that. Just like matching gears to revs.

[Tins]

Yeah, I think it even says on the centre console label, up to either 5 or 8k/h or something.

But weird how (for me), one was as hard as Adarewyr says(D1), was nigh on impossible to move, then slowly freed itself up over time. But the other(D2) snicks in and out easily(if in P or N)

Ian said it, and Mike ( Britrest ) shows it. If not used regularly it will seize up.

Which reminds me, I have to get under mine and adjust the CDL. It has become hard to disengage.

[Campaspe Man]

Hey guys I've got the lever from a d1 installed now, was surprised how easily it all went together tbh. A couple of issues I've got now are I cannot seem to select N or L I'm stuck in 4H, although it was also stupidly difficult before I changed the levers etc over. Second issue I've got is the diff lock light won't show on the dashboard, although I have had it on there before when I've been playing around, is this where I need to get the newer slab computer to allow me to have CDL and the TC on? I'm a roofer not a mechanic so this is all new territory for me

Well, I fitted the CDL on my 99 D2, and didn't need to do anything for the diff lock light to come on... I did however follow the steps to access the wiring in the passenger foot well so as to cut one specific wire, removing the problems with traction control. I found the instructions somewhere on the internet... if you like, I can try to find them and post here?

Myles

[Adran]

Well, I fitted the CDL on my 99 D2, and didn't need to do anything for the diff lock light to come on... I did however follow the steps to access the wiring in the passenger foot well so as to cut one specific wire, removing the problems with traction control. I found the instructions somewhere on the internet... if you like, I can try to find them and post here?

Myles

I personally went and changed the slabs unit with the later d2a one that had the diff lock programmed into it on my 99 model ;) about $150 from the UK

[sierrafery]

Well... I did however follow the steps to access the wiring in the passenger foot well so as to cut one specific wire, removing the problems with traction control.

Myles
Just be aware that this "trick" is not flawless hence they released the upgraded ECU ... IMO at the beginning it was a good reason for the TC to be disabled with locked diff in the earlyer modells cos there are cases when the locked diff and TC could come in "conflict" as the unit was not configured for both enabled and the result is overheating brakes and even losing traction when you need it more. Happened to me when i knew too little about this system and cut the wire as in that tutorial, got stuck in mud with almost no traction and once i disabled the CDL the TC saved me then i tried the same path only with CDL engaged and ABS relay removed and went through as well while stuck with both in action. I found the technical explanation too for that but it's a long and comlicated story, a part of it starting from here: Discovery TD5 52 plate centre diff lock | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum (https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/discovery-td5-52-plate-centre-diff-lock.293081/#post-3634209)

[Adarewyr]

Well, I fitted the CDL on my 99 D2, and didn't need to do anything for the diff lock light to come on... I did however follow the steps to access the wiring in the passenger foot well so as to cut one specific wire, removing the problems with traction control. I found the instructions somewhere on the internet... if you like, I can try to find them and post here?

Myles

I've got a slabs from a later model, not the 04 one but the one before that, I believe serial number ends with 150 so I'm hoping this will work to help the TC issue, I've got everything else working now. Just need to find someone with a nanocom to help install that slabs unit and sort an issue with my airbags, although just happy to be able to drive truck again!

[shack]

I've got a slabs from a later model, not the 04 one but the one before that, I believe serial number ends with 150 so I'm hoping this will work to help the TC issue, I've got everything else working now. Just need to find someone with a nanocom to help install that slabs unit and sort an issue with my airbags, although just happy to be able to drive truck again!The 150 should also be ok.

[johnp38]

I've got a slabs from a later model, not the 04 one but the one before that, I believe serial number ends with 150 so I'm hoping this will work to help the TC issue, I've got everything else working now. Just need to find someone with a nanocom to help install that slabs unit and sort an issue with my airbags, although just happy to be able to drive truck again!

I have the 150 version (dated 03) which I got off an 04 plated car (mine is 99 year) and it does the chimes thing on engage and disengage, I also have a later transfer box with the 2 switches to detect lock and they were both dead. They are wired in parallel and only one functioning one is needed so I bought one and that sorted the diff lock light, the other one I cut the top off and screwed it back in as a plug.

Also while I had console out I took note of the wiring across the top of the gearbox as ppl say they rub through and sure enough mine had been unhooked at some point and was rubbing through so I chucked it and stripped back and re sealed a newer donor one and mounted it properly so it sits firm and that fixed the going into limp mode when getting too wet underneath.

I still find it strange looking at the transfer case lever now sitting leaning towards me instead of vertically.

[Campaspe Man]

Just be aware that this "trick" is not flawless hence they released the upgraded ECU ... IMO at the beginning it was a good reason for the TC to be disabled with locked diff in the earlyer modells cos there are cases when the locked diff and TC could come in "conflict" as the unit was not configured for both enabled and the result is overheating brakes and even losing traction when you need it more. Happened to me when i knew too little about this system and cut the wire as in that tutorial, got stuck in mud with almost no traction and once i disabled the CDL the TC saved me then i tried the same path only with CDL engaged and ABS relay removed and went through as well while stuck with both in action. I found the technical explanation too for that but it's a long and comlicated story, a part of it starting from here: Discovery TD5 52 plate centre diff lock | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum (https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/discovery-td5-52-plate-centre-diff-lock.293081/#post-3634209)

Blimey! There's always more than meets the eye. Thanks though - even if not great news. If I get to obtaining an updated ECU, I'll have to hope that I cut the wire in such a way that I can reconnect it!

Being a newbie here I'm very grateful for all the help, but to receive advice from LR royalty, is a bit of a thrill...

Cheers,
Myles

[Adarewyr]

Blimey! There's always more than meets the eye. Thanks though - even if not great news. If I get to obtaining an updated ECU, I'll have to hope that I cut the wire in such a way that I can reconnect it!

Being a newbie here I'm very grateful for all the help, but to receive advice from LR royalty, is a bit of a thrill...

Cheers,
Myles

I'm sure its not much different in AUS as it is in NZ, but i paid $200 for the newer computer and my local LR parts place had plenty of stock

[Campaspe Man]

I'm sure its not much different in AUS as it is in NZ, but i paid $200 for the newer computer and my local LR parts place had plenty of stock

I see, thanks - looks like I need to look into this! I'm assuming an older ECU can't be upgraded for this purpose (as I have a spare that is almost certainly the older one)?

By the way, why is the Nanocom needed for the installation - obviously not 'plug and play'?

Myles

[Adarewyr]

I see, thanks - looks like I need to look into this! I'm assuming an older ECU can't be upgraded for this purpose (as I have a spare that is almost certainly the older one)?

By the way, why is the Nanocom needed for the installation - obviously not 'plug and play'?

Myles

you'll be able to check the model number on the unit to see which one it is, I have no clue about the nanocom tbh, I will fit mine this weekend and see what my mechanic reckons, if it needs it I guess it is just to tell the computer you've added a new module. Mechanic reckoned he needed to do it on his RR sport when he did a transmission because the car can tell something is new but needs you to tell it what?

I'll reply when I do mine and report on how plug and play it is

[johnp38]

I see, thanks - looks like I need to look into this! I'm assuming an older ECU can't be upgraded for this purpose (as I have a spare that is almost certainly the older one)?

By the way, why is the Nanocom needed for the installation - obviously not 'plug and play'?

Myles

You don't need a nanocom just install the replacement all good.

[admiralranga]

By the way, why is the Nanocom needed for the installation - obviously not 'plug and play'?


You don't need a nanocom just install the replacement all good.

if it's coiler to coiler sure, if not you'll need one to either set it to coils or to set the heights.

[johnp38]

if it's coiler to coiler sure, if not you'll need one to either set it to coils or to set the heights.

Good point, mine came off coil jobbie, I forgot about the inflatable discos.

[Adarewyr]

Good point, mine came off coil jobbie, I forgot about the inflatable discos.


Mines on airbags so this will be an issue for me, although ATM I've got fuses pulled and the bags inflated together so I guess it should be sweet for now

[sierrafery]

Mines on airbags so this will be an issue for me, although ATM I've got fuses pulled and the bags inflated together so I guess it should be sweet for now
If you pulled fuses which have to do with SLS/SLABS and you dont get any warning lights there is a problem

[Adarewyr]

If you pulled fuses which have to do with SLS/SLABS and you dont get any warning lights there is a problem

Thats a good point how do I have no warning lights on my dash.....

[Adarewyr]

You don't need a nanocom just install the replacement all good.

Can confirm it's plug and play, I had an abs light but it went out after about 5 minutes, truck went well with it all done