Brake Light Switch Replacement D4

[BobD]

On Wednesday, I decided to get Barbagallo to replace a chafed hose that they had ordered for me so I decided to drive the D4 TD3 SE to work instead of my BMW motorbike.

After 5 minutes in stop start traffic the car decided to have a second or more delay between pressing the accelerator and deciding to move. Once into the inner suburbs the delay increased and then, when pressing the accelerator and trying to go with nothing happening, every error message under the sun flashed onto the screen. Rolled to a stop, restarted the engine and then everything was OK until the next traffic lights when the same thing happened.

I managed to get the car to BB after about 10 kms of delayed throttle, but no more error messages. To their credit they looked at it straight away and after one false diagnosis and getting the car back to them on a truck after I left to try it out, they replaced the brake light switch. So far, the car is running perfectly with the new switch, so it looks like the problem is solved.

Looking back, there has been a slight delay when accelerating from a stop over several months. It felt like turbo lag but it has now disappeared and the response is instant. This lag is probably an early sign of the stop switch failing so something to be aware of. My car was first registered in Jan 2010 and has done 70,000 km. It just had a major service 2 weeks ago.

My wife usually drives the car and she did not notice anything. However, now she tells me that the car takes off straight away instead of feeling like it doesn't want to move like it did before. It was a very subtle change until the almost total failure, which came on very suddenly.

Looks like a good spare part to carry on remote trips! The part is "Switch-assembly Stop", part # ROXKB500110, for future reference.

Bob

[Graeme]

My Nov 09 3.0 doesn't instantly get moving straight after stopping so it might have the same malady. I notice it every time I stop at the local railway crossing where the stop is almost always just to comply with the sign.

[BobD]

Graeme,

Yes, it sounds like the same thing. It is just enough delay for you start to think "I wonder if or when it will go" and then it is off before you can really fully think the thought!

Bob

[discotwinturbo]

My Nov 09 3.0 doesn't instantly get moving straight after stopping so it might have the same malady. I notice it every time I stop at the local railway crossing where the stop is almost always just to comply with the sign.

I have the same issue.....mine actually sits in second as I am almost at a halt. Put the foot down and it takes sometimes a scary and dangerous period of time (probably only a second) before it jumps back to first.

This happens in the same spot for me each and everyday, so if I drive it in sport approaching this spot and there is no issue. Appears to be poor programming.

Brett....

[Graeme]

I have another thought though. After recent major surgery on the D4 the response was immediate for a while before it returned to having its previous "think" time. Perhaps BobD's gearbox adaptations were reset because that often overcomes the delay so I'll reset mine and see if there's any change.

[~Rich~]

Following the Transmission fault / HDC fault thread I bought a brake light switch off eBay here:

Land Rover Discovery 3 Brake Light Switch | eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190682059206)
Pity it's gone up $10 in the last week!

Easily swapped over, the old one had "Landrover" on it so it was an original switch. Luckily it has lasted 7 yrs!
The new one has "FoMoCo" ( Ford Motor Company) on it.

[101RRS]

I find it amazing that a faulty brake switch can cause suspension faults - the programmers of the software in these vehicles need to take a reality check.

Thankfully in 18 months of ownership and 25,000km I have had few issues but get worried when I hear about such stupidity.

Garry

[trif]

I have the same issue.....mine actually sits in second as I am almost at a halt. Put the foot down and it takes sometimes a scary and dangerous period of time (probably only a second) before it jumps back to first.

This happens in the same spot for me each and everyday, so if I drive it in sport approaching this spot and there is no issue. Appears to be poor programming.

Brett....

Ditto. This is very interesting. I have a MY11 HSE. I thought is was turbo lag for a split second and then there is a power surge and off you go.

I might get the local dealers to have a look at it, and while there have a drive of a new D4 3.0lt and see if there is any difference.

Regards Trif.

[BobD]

The D4 is still running perfectly, several days after replacing the brake switch, so it appears to have been fixed, thank goodness.

Still no delay when accelerating after a long or very short stop, so I am very happy. The only time it takes any time at all to think about which gear to select etc is after coasting slowly and then accelerating. Still nothing like I have been used to over the last couple of months.

Bob

[Graeme]

I've just reset mine's gbox adaptations so will monitor for any improvement tomorrow.

[NavyDiver]

I've just reset mine's gbox adaptations so will monitor for any improvement tomorrow.

It seem beyond incompetence that an issue so well noted in Disco 3s is now kicking D4s. I wonder if it is a world wide issue or just local? I am almost speechless. Landrover needs a kick over this.

[Learner]

Hi weakestlink,
I think that you'll find that the problem afflicts other makes with the "same" gearbox. Hence, it is a ZF problem more than an LR one.

[Graeme]

After clearing adaptations the slight think time has gone. I didn't consider the wait particularly significant but it is nicer to take off immediately and smoothly rather than with a bit of a delayed surge. It would be good if there was an option for the gbox to not learn.

[BobD]

or tell it to learn not to think so much!

Glad you don't have the problem I had Graeme.

Bob

[101RRS]

Ok - blew the front left indicator globe tonite - can I now expect the suspension to go to super extended mode now or something equally silly?

Garry

[NavyDiver]

Hi weakestlink,
I think that you'll find that the problem afflicts other makes with the "same" gearbox. Hence, it is a ZF problem more than an LR one.

If Landrover knows the problem occurs with volatage fluctuations then volatge regulation like we have for in U.P.S. systems for server or even work station computers would have been a simple and easy way to avoid a small problem impacting on so many areas of our landrovers systems.

A gear box issue should not be able to affect susspension or DSC. A brake light should not be able to stuff up our cars. Landrover gets very poor kudos for Q.A. for allowing a known issue to be a ongoing issue when a fix would have been fairly straight forward. Surely there is a little slack in $100,000 odd purchase price to avoid a multi systems failure cuased by one of several minor problems which have a minor effect on voltage?

Now a 18inch wheel option is available I could look at a D4 to replace my D3 when needed. Now I am not at all sure I would consider it given this problem. It is fixable but should not exist. Zulu Bravo!

[gghaggis]

If Landrover knows the problem occurs with volatage fluctuations then volatge regulation like we have for in U.P.S. systems for server or even work station computers would have been a simple and easy way to avoid a small problem impacting on so many areas of our landrovers systems.


Voltage regulation to the level expected by many IC manufacturers is a lot harder within the environment of a car engine bay than your 240V supply at the office. Military-spec components will achieve it, but at cost and around a 5 year lag in features/development. Hence the dog-chasing-tail attempts of car manufacturers to produce fail-safe systems that can reduce catastrophic systems failure. They get a fair bit of it right, but there's still a lot of "butterfly effect" that is in practice untraceable, let alone being addressed.

Cheers,

Gordon

[Graeme]

Its got nothing to do with voltage, rather the "smartness" of the gbox ecu to adapt its gear selection to a driving style but the minor lag that seems to develop over time is an inappropriate consequence and IMO should better programmed. However my gbox behaves much more reasonably since its s/w was updated a few weeks ago than it did previously.

Its also my opinion that LR erred in having the suspension ecu react to any fault reported by the ABS ecu by lowering the vehicle to a "safer" height.

[gghaggis]

Its also my opinion that LR erred in having the suspension ecu react to any fault reported by the ABS ecu by lowering the vehicle to a "safer" height.

That decision's got me stumped too - it should "freeze" the car at whatever height it's currently at. I don't understand the logic behind thinking that the system is only safe at access or bump-stop height. Short of a compromised air-bag, it's a better bet to leave the car at current height. I've tried getting a D3 out of a forest track on its bump-stops, and it wasn't pretty .........

Cheers,

Gordon

[101RRS]

That decision's got me stumped too - it should "freeze" the car at whatever height it's currently at. I don't understand the logic behind thinking that the system is only safe at access or bump-stop height. Short of a compromised air-bag, it's a better bet to leave the car at current height. I've tried getting a D3 out of a forest track on its bump-stops, and it wasn't pretty .........

Cheers,

Gordon

Too bloody smart for their own good. The D3/4/RRS is a great design exercise but its execution - particularly software is a worry. Seems to have complexity for the sake of complexity. I want full control of the height selection, I want to be able to engage/disengage the CDL when I want and I would like a brake switch issue to only impact on the the brake lights coming on.

I guess there is the Right Way, the Wrong Way and then there is the British Way - Heath Robinson comes to mind.

Garry

[elsey]

I experienced quite a distinct lag when accelerating form a stop when I first took delivery of my April 2010 D4, it was a real concern (and somewhat dangerous) particularly when trying to pull out and merge into fast moving traffic.

After I had the Q093 upgrade the problem improved considerably however there was still a noticeable lag. I raised the issue with my local dealer who suggested replacing the 'brake light switch'. After that was done the problem disappeared.

As I am a left foot breaker when driving autos the only time I ever had a problem now is if I touch the accelerator before completely lifting my left foot off the brake peddle. The vehicle becomes a little confused thinking that it is still trying to slow/stop rather than go, then it realises that it should be going as no further pressure is being applied to the brake peddle and then all is well.

I have bought and now carry a brake light switch (just in case).

Elsey

[jonesy63]

Left foot braking is a no-no in D3/D4 - it does the same thing as having a faulty brake switch.

[elsey]

Left foot braking is a no-no in D3/D4 - it does the same thing as having a faulty brake switch.

Yes you are right jonesy63 however it is not only D3/D4s that do not like the brake and the accelerator to be applied simultaneously most current models that depend highly on electronics become confused if that occurs. I was highlighting a potential problem for those who may not have been aware.

When driving in the city, particularly Sydney, I only right foot brake so that there is no possibility of the problem occurring.

Elsey...

[MC D4]

We have a 2010 D4 2.7 now done 45,000kms.

Just got home from a long weekend today with the caravan in tow. After stopping at a T junction I noticed that something was not right. Felt like the trailer brakes did not release when I went to take off (running a redarc brake controller). Did manage to drive away from the junction only to get multiple error and fault reports (gearbox, sway assit, HDC, ESC, park brake). Pulled over and tried the old ignition on/off several times without any luck. Decided to limp home as we had only 30kms to go. We got 100 meters up road only to get suspension fault error and car lowered to safe height (LR should rename that "uncomfortable" height especially when you have a 2.5 tonne caravan in tow) :mad:. Ended up getting home ok and noticed that the error codes had cleared when I moved the car (some 30 minutes after stopping).

After reading this thread it sounds like I may have a faulty brake light switch. And now that I think back I also experienced "lag" issues which I put down to "technical wisardry". It was as if the ECU would not give you full power when the wheels were not pointing straight!! And yes did cause some scary moments especially when you needed to execute a speedy merge in peak hour traffic.

Let's see what Southern LR have to say tomorrow.

PS - I tried to get SWHBO on the iPad looking up the AULRO site to relay me some technical advise whilst I was limping the D4 home and lets just say that was a "fault error code" of another kind. At least she appreciates that there is some helpful info on here unlike the crap she finds on wastebook! :D

[discotwinturbo]

We have a 2010 D4 2.7 now done 45,000kms.

Just got home from a long weekend today with the caravan in tow. After stopping at a T junction I noticed that something was not right. Felt like the trailer brakes did not release when I went to take off (running a redarc brake controller). Did manage to drive away from the junction only to get multiple error and fault reports (gearbox, sway assit, HDC, ESC, park brake). Pulled over and tried the old ignition on/off several times without any luck. Decided to limp home as we had only 30kms to go. We got 100 meters up road only to get suspension fault error and car lowered to safe height (LR should rename that "uncomfortable" height especially when you have a 2.5 tonne caravan in tow) :mad:. Ended up getting home ok and noticed that the error codes had cleared when I moved the car (some 30 minutes after stopping).

After reading this thread it sounds like I may have a faulty brake light switch. And now that I think back I also experienced "lag" issues which I put down to "technical wisardry". It was as if the ECU would not give you full power when the wheels were not pointing straight!! And yes did cause some scary moments especially when you needed to execute a speedy merge in peak hour traffic.

Let's see what Southern LR have to say tomorrow.

PS - I tried to get SWHBO on the iPad looking up the AULRO site to relay me some technical advise whilst I was limping the D4 home and lets just say that was a "fault error code" of another kind. At least she appreciates that there is some helpful info on here unlike the crap she finds on wastebook! :D

That would certainly be no fun!
Would be interested to see what Joe and the guys at southerns come back with.
I have purchased a brake light switch....just in case.
Brett....

[BobD]

MC D4,

Certainly sounds like what happened to me so I hope they sort it quickly for you. Other than the general lag for some time before the major failure, I first really noticed it when turning right into side streets at low speeds when the car refused to accelerate. This seems pretty similar to your experience. Once this happens it is only a short time until everything goes haywire.

In my case they first did a software update, which seemed to prevent all the errors from happening. However, the throttle problems still remained and got worse until they replaced the brake switch.

The car is still running brilliantly since the fix so no bad news yet.

Bob

[Graeme]

Not being able to just drop into a dealer to get a spare switch, I've ordered one from the UK costing $22 delivered.

[Beamin]

For a $20 part that has the potential to cause so much grief and warranty expense, you'd think they might start routinely replacing this part every 2nd service or so, just to manage the risk.

[discotwinturbo]

For a $20 part that has the potential to cause so much grief and warranty expense, you'd think they might start routinely replacing this part every 2nd service or so, just to manage the risk.

Now that's what they call "thinking". Nothing like preventative maintenance. Just imagine if a manufacturer would think that way....that could be land rover LoL

Brett.....

[Graeme]

Oils, filters and brake pads are replaced before the absolute end of their useful life during normal servicing so why not a part that retails for only a few dollars and is easily accessed, perhaps every 2 years or 50K kms?

[jonesy63]

The brake switch in my D4 only lasted 9 months and about 15,000km from new. I might ask the dealer to put a new one in each 12,000km! :wasntme:

[SBD4]

Oils, filters and brake pads are replaced before the absolute end of their useful life during normal servicing so why not a part that retails for only a few dollars and is easily accessed, perhaps every 2 years or 50K kms?

especially if it would avoid irate customers and tainted product/brand image - no brainer you would think.

[Mungus]

Is it possible to replace the two contact switch for two single contact switches, one n/o and one n/c. That way the low power switching n/c contact would not get fouled by dust created by the high power switching n/o contact. For those that know how the conacts are located inside this swtich I would be rotating the switch if possible, putting the n/o contact for the brake lights on the bottom to try reduce the amount of dust fouling the important switch. Definately sounds like a spare part to have in your kit.

[Duke4]

Not being able to just drop into a dealer to get a spare switch, I've ordered one from the UK costing $22 delivered.

That's excellent do you mind saying where from and the part number if it is different to the one in the first post? I assume it's also for a D4.

Another thought do you think these dodgy brake light switches also contribute to the old push the start button with no start syndrome?

Mine seems to come and go you get in the car foot on the brake push the start button and all lights go on but no start do it agin and everything is fine.

[BobD]

Duke4,

I had starting problems occasionally with my dodgy switch. Just before the complete failure of the switch my wife couldn't get it to start and ended up putting the key fob up under the steering column as she read in the manual might fix it. This got it started that time.

No problem at all with starting the eingine since the switch was replaced so it must have been having some effect. Ever since we started to drive to Perth from Sydney after picking up the car in December we have had the odd problem with the car telling us to press the brake or not wanting to let the engine start. This has all gone now.

Bob

[Graeme]

That's excellent do you mind saying where from and the part number if it is different to the one in the first post? I assume it's also for a D4.This is what I've bought Genuine Discovery 3 & Range Rover Sport Brake light Switch(XKB500110) | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-Discovery-3-Range-Rover-Sport-Brake-light-Switch-XKB500110-/370620124079?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item564aae4baf) 4.85 GBP postage.

[MC D4]

Took my car in to Southern LR today and they ran a diagnostic check. They reckon my brake light switch checked out ok and suggested that my issue may have been feedback from the trailer brakes. I know that Sniegy's EBC install recommended a diode be fitted to stop feedback and I have had that little job stuck on my TTD let for some months now. :angel: Looks like a job for this weekend!

Once again good service at SLR and no charge for their time today (they did comment that the brake controller install was very professionally done apart from the diode issue :D - thanks to Sniegy's excellent post of course!)

[RoverLander]

Well bugger me....

So I've been reading this topic for the last few days. Last night i decided that i would get a spare brake light switch while the car was in for its scheduled 52,000km service today. I hadnt had any of the problems outlined here but its a cheap small part to give me peace of mind in our outback trips.

Well, I'm driving the 20 kms to the dealer this morning and i get the delayed throttle response twice while driving in the peak hour traffic. It wasnt a minor delay. It was long enough for me to dabb the throttle 2 o 3 times before i got a response.

Got to the dealer, told them the symptons and that i though it was the brake light switch. The tech sort of agreed and said they would look at it.

On picking up the car they said there were no fault codes logged for it and they could not replicate it. I just purchased the spare switch and decided to head home. Well it did it again on the way home...so looks like a trip back to the dealer soon.

Does anyone know if a fault code does get logged for this problem?

The car is a my10 d4 with 47,000km on it.

[MC D4]

Whilst there is every chance that the feedback from my caravan brakes may have caused my issue the other day I am not totally convinced that my brake switch is "cleared for take off" so to speak. The lag issue is still in the back of my mind and I will be paying closer attention to the frequency and conditions that it occurs. I still plan to get a spare and keep it in the car!

[BobD]

I'm not sure what faults get logged with this problem. As I mentioned in my first post, Barbagallo's did not pick up that it was the brake switch when I first brought it in and said it was "a software issue". I think that this is a bit like going to the doctor's and being told that you have a virus. It is a catch all for things that they don't know the cause of.

When the car was finally trucked back to them it had failed completely and could not even be driven above idle speed to get it to the back of the truck. This was only 50 kms and a couple of hours after it was released by Barbagallo's as being fixed. Once it was in this state it was easier for the technicians to diagnose I think and was fixed straight away.

Bob

[Normthe1]

I really hate to put the mockas on anyone or thing, but the lag issue you are talking about also happened to me, and countless others from memory. My problem, and theirs too, turned out to be the ZF transmission, which someone else mentioned early on in this thread.

I really hope this switch is the magic remedy but just keep in the back of your mind that that exact same symptom ended up being fixed by a new transmission for a lot of us early D3 drivers.

I would have thought that LR and ZF would have had that sorted by now though...


Norm

[Dfourfun]

Very interesting thread guys. My MY12 D4 2.7 has been experiencing what I call 'power fade' on hill climbs. You start up a steep track and want to keep the revs up but appox 100m or less the engine starts losing power. Very disconcerting, so you apply more right boot and more right boot and still the thing slows down. So in desperation you jam the peddle to the floor and she starts to gain revs again slowly and you claw your way back up the hill. Till the next 100m... Took it to the LR guys on a number of occasions grumbling that this shouldn't happen but even after service with a mooted 'software upgrade' (apparently), it still happens a bit - but not as much as at first. The LR diagnostic found nothing wrong and it was suggested to me I had not selected the right off-road setting (as I am new to the joys of LR so I thought maybe it was 'operator error' and not the vehicle). An alternative excuse by LR was to blame the electric trailer brakes (even tho fitted from new by LR dealer) and I have since had the diode feedback thing retro fitted to eliminate that excuse. Maybe this brake light switch issue has something to do with the apparent loss of power i.e. the brakes are being applied by the LR magic black box which slows down one's upward progress when on an incline? This happens with or without HDC on and on Mud/ruts and Rock settings. Has anyone else experienced something like this and if so, what did you do to fix it? Thanx.

[gghaggis]

Sounds like you're triggering the DSC by planting your foot? Try easing off the throttle when it first starts to lose revs and then gently feed the throttle in (and make sure DSC is off).

Cheers,

Gordon

[BobD]

Mine often does it in sand even with the traction control off. We had it reduce its power on us a couple of times in sand over the weekend so not related to the brake switch. Once trying to climb a steep sand hill for fun and a couple in soft sand where we needed more power and the car didn't like it until it decided that we really did need more power and it gave the power back!

I'm doing Gordon's course in a couple of weeks so hopefully I will find out then how to get the best out of the car in sand and what to do to stop the car reducing power just when we need more power.

Bob

[discotwinturbo]

Mine often does it in sand even with the traction control off. We had it reduce its power on us a couple of times in sand over the weekend so not related to the brake switch. Once trying to climb a steep sand hill for fun and a couple in soft sand where we needed more power and the car didn't like it until it decided that we really did need more power and it gave the power back!

I'm doing Gordon's course in a couple of weeks so hopefully I will find out then how to get the best out of the car in sand and what to do to stop the car reducing power just when we need more power.

Bob

The only way I got around this on the calcup dunes down south, was low range, dsc off, sand mode.....I could not get over the tallest dune without this setting. I almost decided to take the D4 down for a swim.....my old patrol never had a problem with these dunes, and had much less power. Dsc came on whenever power was needed....and always at the wrong time, even though dsc was turned off.

Brett....

[sniegy]

Very interesting thread guys. My MY12 D4 2.7 has been experiencing what I call 'power fade' on hill climbs. You start up a steep track and want to keep the revs up but appox 100m or less the engine starts losing power. Very disconcerting, so you apply more right boot and more right boot and still the thing slows down. So in desperation you jam the peddle to the floor and she starts to gain revs again slowly and you claw your way back up the hill. Till the next 100m... Took it to the LR guys on a number of occasions grumbling that this shouldn't happen but even after service with a mooted 'software upgrade' (apparently), it still happens a bit - but not as much as at first. The LR diagnostic found nothing wrong and it was suggested to me I had not selected the right off-road setting (as I am new to the joys of LR so I thought maybe it was 'operator error' and not the vehicle). An alternative excuse by LR was to blame the electric trailer brakes (even tho fitted from new by LR dealer) and I have since had the diode feedback thing retro fitted to eliminate that excuse. Maybe this brake light switch issue has something to do with the apparent loss of power i.e. the brakes are being applied by the LR magic black box which slows down one's upward progress when on an incline? This happens with or without HDC on and on Mud/ruts and Rock settings. Has anyone else experienced something like this and if so, what did you do to fix it? Thanx.
Hey Dfourfun,
What gear are you doing your hill climb in out of curiosity?

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

[Dfourfun]

I have been using low range, HDC off and (usually) in Mud/Ruts version but have left the gear choice to the auto (thought the gear box would be smarter than me trying to pick the gear, then again, maybe not). I note some guys are finding the same thing, maybe I should try the Sand selection?

[Dfourfun]

[QUOTE=gghaggis;1701090]Sounds like you're triggering the DSC by planting your foot? Try easing off the throttle when it first starts to lose revs and then gently feed the throttle in (and make sure DSC is off).


Thanx Gordon, tho easing off the throttle sounds counter-intuitive when you actually want more revs not less. I only plant the foot hard when after trying to gently coax more revs from the engine without the desired result. I originally thought it was an engine issue - even in a LR more gas should = more revs. Not sure I'm following your logic of easing off the gas...

[BobD]

The only way I got around this on the calcup dunes down south, was low range, dsc off, sand mode.....I could not get over the tallest dune without this setting. I almost decided to take the D4 down for a swim.....my old patrol never had a problem with these dunes, and had much less power. Dsc came on whenever power was needed....and always at the wrong time, even though dsc was turned off.

Brett....

Brett, I always drive in low range, DSC off and sand mode unless I get stuck, at which time I go slow in Rock Crawl with DSC off and low range. I usually leave the trans in auto but I notice that there is less cutting of power if you select a gear first.

Bob

[gghaggis]

- even in a LR more gas should = more revs. Not sure I'm following your logic of easing off the gas...

Mmm - not necessarily. The accelerator position is only one of a number of inputs to the ECM that determine whether it will increase revs or not. A signal from the DSC can override your request. And conversely, the ECM is only one of a number of inputs that accept accelerator position information. The DSC is another ;)

Cheers,

Gordon

[sniegy]

I have been using low range, HDC off and (usually) in Mud/Ruts version but have left the gear choice to the auto (thought the gear box would be smarter than me trying to pick the gear, then again, maybe not)?
Hi Dfourfun,
there is your issue, if you leave the gearbox in "D" this will cause the vehicle to stall on climbs as there are 2 many choices for the ecu to choose from. The vehicle bogs down & in its choices to find the correct gear you stop!

When climbing use 2nd gear :)

Cheers

[Ferret]

Very interesting thread guys. My MY12 D4 2.7 has been experiencing what I call 'power fade' on hill climbs.


The only way I got around this on the calcup dunes down south, was low range, dsc off, sand mode.....I could not get over the tallest dune without this setting.

I also have experienced this in the long, steep sand dunes of Calcup. Whilst climbing, engine power was being cut then returned then cut back again. It is like the engine is 'surging' up and down through the rev range irrespective of moment of the accelerator pedal on my part. My settings at the time were Hi range, Sand mode, Drive and I also swear DSC was off at the time.

The 3.0L easily had enough power to climb those dunes in high range until 'whatever' decided to reduce the engine power and bring it to a halt. Another run at the same hill with the same setting saw it get to top in high range easily but for whatever reason the engine surging up and down did not re occur again.

[Dfourfun]

Thanx Sneigy, I must say I didn't think of specifying a gear manually. :o I will give it a go this weekend. As a (former) Pajero man I have always worked on the basis that it was auto on the up slopes and manual selection on the down slopes... I obviously need to re-learn some driving techniques with this Disco beast. I have needlessly been cursing LR when I should have been looking in the mirror. Thanx for pointing out the error of my ways. Cheers!:)

[discotwinturbo]

Thanx Sneigy, I must say I didn't think of specifying a gear manually. :o I will give it a go this weekend. As a (former) Pajero man I have always worked on the basis that it was auto on the up slopes and manual selection on the down slopes... I obviously need to re-learn some driving techniques with this Disco beast. I have needlessly been cursing LR when I should have been looking in the mirror. Thanx for pointing out the error of my ways. Cheers!:)

I tried selecting second, but it would still kick to first, then to second, then to first. I tried to lock it in first, but the same thing happened for me, will still go up then down then up....was super annoying.
Hopefully it works for you.

Brett...

[orangepop]

This is what I've bought Genuine Discovery 3 & Range Rover Sport Brake light Switch(XKB500110) | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-Discovery-3-Range-Rover-Sport-Brake-light-Switch-XKB500110-/370620124079?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item564aae4baf) 4.85 GBP postage.

Ebay stores and RoverLord switches say compatible 2005-2010 model D3 D4 & RRS. Does anyone know if it is the same part # for the 2011-2013. 3.0 SDV6

[orangepop]

Ebay stores and RoverLord switches say compatible 2005-2010 model D3 D4 & RRS. Does anyone know if it is the same part # for the 2011-2013. 3.0 SDV6

Having now bought & fitted one the answer to my question is Yes! Also it appears that the same part is also used in the Ford Territory so could be handy if a Ford dealer is closer than the Landy dealer.