View Full Version : 10" brake retaining ring bolts
Warb
26th May 2012, 03:21 PM
The retaining rings on 10" brakes are shown to be secured with bolts and locking tabs. The set I have removed were hex head set bolts, secured with spring washers but no tabs, so as the bolts were in fairly poor condition I ordered new bolts and lock tabs.
The new bolts, however, are hex flange heads which means the locking tab must be bent back over the flange to lock on the flats of the hex. Is this correct? It seems to be what is shown in the Series III parts book, but the SII book shows bolts with no flange......
Is it best to use the locking tabs, or spring washers and/or Loctite, or both?
Johnno1969
26th May 2012, 03:30 PM
Is it best to use the locking tabs, or spring washers and/or Loctite, or both?
I'm not sure. I've just run out to have a look at my brake shoes and the  bolts on the retaining rings have neither lock tabs nor spring washers. You've got me worried now. Mind you, they haven't given any trouble in twenty years.
I think I'll be fitting spring washers and dosing the threads with Loctite when it comes time for reassembly....
Blknight.aus
26th May 2012, 03:34 PM
the OEM fitment is a stock bolt with a pair of or U shaped locking plate (a plate 2 or more bolts fit through with tabs to secure one or more flats of the bolt)
Pretty much any bolt of the right grade and dimension secured with loctite 262 or a appropriate locking nut will be ample.
Warb
26th May 2012, 04:45 PM
The reason I bought the "correct" bolts is that they self tap in to an unthreaded hole. In fact the new brake pads have what can best be described as a semi-threaded hole, it's not a full thread but there is a very rough "start" of a thread. That being the case, I ordered what are alledgedly the correct self tapping bolts - but they turned out to be flanged!
I think, unless persuaded otherwise, that I'll use Loctite (probably 243, I think 262 might be overkill!) and the locking tabs. That would mimick the factory setup, albeit with flanged bolts, and add Loctite to compensate for any loss of locking caused by the tabs folding over the flanges....
Blknight.aus
26th May 2012, 05:10 PM
I think, unless persuaded otherwise, that I'll use Loctite (probably 243, I think 262 might be overkill!) and the locking tabs. That would mimick the factory setup, albeit with flanged bolts, and add Loctite to compensate for any loss of locking caused by the tabs folding over the flanges....
I use 262 on brake bolts due to the slightly better temperature tolerance and chemical resistance.
Warb
26th May 2012, 08:08 PM
Both are resistant to brake fluid, and whilst 262 looses slightly less strength when hot, its heat ageing results are slightly worse. However 262 starts off stronger and ends up stronger, the losses don't change that.
I tend to use 243 simply because I've never had it fail, it provides ample resistance to vibration, and it can be disassembled far more easily than 262 which often needs a great deal of heat, certainly on larger thread sizes.
I have a stack of different Loctite products, everything from the wick-in version (I can't remember the number, but it's specified for the Disco II diff housing drain or fill plug, from memory) to the high strength ones I use in hydraulic systems. But to be honest, unless there is a particular one specified I tend to use 243.
Warb
4th June 2012, 02:26 PM
I've just taken a good look at a set of 10" brakes on a vehicle I'm using for parts, and they looked "wrong". Then I realised that the retaining rings on this particular vehicle are bolted to the LEADING shoes. Closer study shows that the trailing shoes don't even have the holes for the retaining ring bolts. The leading shoe has the pin for the pull-off spring AND holes for the retaining ring, the trailing shoe has neither.
When I look at the old parts book, I notice that the brake shoes are shown reversed when compared to the back-plate, and that neither shoe is shown with holes for the retaining ring (although the ring and its bolts are in the picture).
Were the old (replacement) shoes supplied without these holes, such that the mechanic had to drill them to suit? Is there any other (polite) explanation for this "alternative configuration"?
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