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Spalm89
27th May 2012, 02:16 PM
Hi guys,

With my 88' nearly completely stripped I come with a question.

Removing the steering damper.

Not realising how rusted this component would be a left it till the end to make sure I had plenty of room, BIG MISTAKE. This little sucker doesn't want to budge had two big pry bars and a BFH - didn't budge.

Next idea was to chain a spring pack to the chassis and place a bottle jack in between, didn't like that idea as I had no way of keeping the spring parallel with the cross-member. Might try a bit of steel as it may be easier to control - trouble is setting up as I cannot tension the chain until the jack applies pressure.

Does anybody have any ideas that might aid my endeavors?

I have supplied 2 pics of what I call the steering relay as I have noticed a discrepancy in nomenclature among forumites.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/280.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/281.jpg

Lotz-A-Landies
27th May 2012, 02:28 PM
It is the steering relay box and if some call it something else they are wrong.

Try lots of WD 40 and heat the relay housing and let cool with a jack under the relay and leave it over night. May need multiple attempts.

You can also use dyna bolts to chain the chassis to the ground.

If all this fails, rebuild the relay in the chassis.

geodon
27th May 2012, 02:53 PM
I left mine alone based on 2 criteria:

1. It was working fine with no slop

2. The USA LR bogsters claim it needs a Tactical Nuclear Waepon to remove it.

JDNSW
27th May 2012, 03:12 PM
As Diana said, except I would not even bother to try to remove it - just overhaul it (if necessary) in place - but read the manual before doing so - the spring can be dangerous.

Some years ago I converted a Series chassis to a trailer - it still has the relay attached.

The relay rarely needs attention unless it is allowed to run dry, and in any case it can be overhauled in situ.

John

Spalm89
27th May 2012, 05:03 PM
Thanks for replies,

Tried putting the jack under the weight of the chassis, with heat + WD40. Dyna bolts are bit extreme for the garage floor...

Wanting to remove the steering relay as I am planning on getting the chassis dipped, repaired and galvanised.

Cheers,
Sean

JDNSW
28th May 2012, 05:56 AM
Thanks for replies,

Tried putting the jack under the weight of the chassis, with heat + WD40. Dyna bolts are bit extreme for the garage floor...

Wanting to remove the steering relay as I am planning on getting the chassis dipped, repaired and galvanised.

Cheers,
Sean

Disassemble the relay, taking care (see manual, can be dangerous), and try heating it from the inside - you can get it quite hot (even red heat) without damaging it, and even if you do, it will is reasonably cheap to replace. Allow it to cool, then pack with ice, or better, dry ice, and after twenty minutes or so have another go, if necessary, heating the crossmember first.

Another advantage of disassembling the relay is that you could make a puller , using a suitable size RHS with a plate and large (25mm+ nut and a large bolt as a puller.

As a last resort, cut the entire section out of the crossmember, top and bottom, and rebuild it.

John

chazza
29th May 2012, 08:10 AM
Sean, on my S1 chassis I turned it upside down on trestles and soaked it in penetrating oil for about 4 weeks and used a very big sledge hammer to get it moving, as I didn't have heating equipment at home.

If you use a trolley-jack, place a chain under the jack and around the chassis - protect the chassis with wooden blocks - and whilst the load is on the relay, give the top a whack with a hammer.

If that fails and you can't do what John suggests be prepared to cut the chassis to get to it,

Cheers Charlie