Fitting a Exbox

[Def_9]

What a way to spend a lazy Sunday, fitting a Exbox to my 2011 D90. So a 3 or 4 hour job turned into a whole day of messing about.

Anyway to the purpose of this thread, I bought the Exbox with the fuse block and wiring and I'm wondering where to attach the negative lead? I figure I have a couple of options.
One, straight onto the terminal but seems a bit to complicated due to no apparent connecting points.
Two, connected to a free bolt sticking out of the bottom of the battery compartment, this will be the easiest option but I'm not sure if this point is earthed well enough.
Three, Undo the insulation and pull the wire back through and connect it to the chassis rail, what I probably should do. Opinions?

Next after pulling the wires through and putting them into the Exbox of course you end up with a gapping hole in the seat box, so what are your ideas on what to fill the hole with?

Lastly for the life of me I can't seem to work out what the right angle bracket (see photo) is for in the passenger seat box? I'm sure it's obvious but i cant work it out.

Thanks in advance for any lessons learnt.:)

[x-box]

That metal thing is a wheel chock :p

[Def_9]

Ha HA, I new it. It had to be something like that! How ridiculous do I feel... any way whats with all the holes in it?

[splatters]

Ha HA, I new it. It had to be something like that! How ridiculous do I feel... any way whats with all the holes in it?


In the discos, the same part sits where the Second battery would go and the holes are used too fix the bottle jack bellow it, they are also used in the Army 110 and 6x6's too fit it over the bottle jack in the wheel bin.

Id post a photo of how it sits with the holes but im lazy

[chook73]

I would take the ground back to the battery, this will by far give you the best connection. If Daniel hasn't included a lug for the end of the cable you can get them at any auto electrician. Do not ground it to the battery box as this will not give you a good connection.

I simply riveted and siliconed a piece of alloy plate over the loom hole, quick and easy. What was the pig of a job was getting the bracket off from under the seat (the one right at the back).

Enjoy the exbox I love mine it's such a great simple mod.


Sent from my iPhone using Thumbs

[patclan]

Ha HA, I new it. It had to be something like that! How ridiculous do I feel... any way what's with all the holes in it?


I always wondered what that was for, it being some kind of stand for the jack even went through my mind, glad you asked!! now I know I can chuck it..

cheers
Patrick

[carlschmid2002]

Another option is to buy a dual battery kit and connect the X box positive and negative to that. That's what I have done as I use the X box plugs for my fridge and charging things. The National Luna kit from Mulgo works well.

[chook73]

Another option is to buy a dual battery kit and connect the X box positive and negative to that. That's what I have done as I use the X box plugs for my fridge and charging things. The National Luna kit from Mulgo works well.

You connected them to the second battery correct?

[carlschmid2002]

Just the fuse box for fridge and accessories.

[jasonedu]

I was looking at that on the weekend and thinking what the hell it was. and now I know as well.


I always wondered what that was for, it being some kind of stand for the jack even went through my mind, glad you asked!! now I know I can chuck it..

cheers
Patrick

[chook73]

Just the fuse box for fridge and accessories.

Cool your post just read like you connected them to the solenoid.


Sent from my iPhone using Thumbs

[Def_9]

Another option is to buy a dual battery kit and connect the X box positive and negative to that. That's what I have done as I use the X box plugs for my fridge and charging things. The National Luna kit from Mulgo works well.

Of course, thanks. Thats on the to do list, once I decide which way to go with the dual battery charger. [bighmmm]

[n plus one]

I'll put in my vote for the Traxide unit.

[Mulgo]

Anyway to the purpose of this thread, I bought the Exbox with the fuse block and wiring and I'm wondering where to attach the negative lead? I figure I have a couple of options.
One, straight onto the terminal but seems a bit to complicated due to no apparent connecting points.
Two, connected to a free bolt sticking out of the bottom of the battery compartment, this will be the easiest option but I'm not sure if this point is earthed well enough.
Three, Undo the insulation and pull the wire back through and connect it to the chassis rail, what I probably should do. Opinions?


Until you decide on the dual battery system I would suggest you connect the negative lead to the chassis. Connect it to the same bolt where the negative battery cable is connected to.







-----------------------
Mulgo Pty Ltd
Expedition Vehicles & Equipment
69 Anderson Road, Mortdale NSW 2223
P 0438183507 - www.mulgo.com.au

purchase your 4WD equipment online:
www.expeditioncentre.com.au

Family Off Road Trailer:
www.missiontrailers.com.au

[jc109]

What a way to spend a lazy Sunday, fitting a Exbox to my 2011 D90. So a 3 or 4 hour job turned into a whole day of messing about.



Any chance you could help me avoid the same fate? I'm in the process of fitting mine right now and can see this blowing out to at least a full day.

Are there any things you found along the way that you'd do differently now with the benefit of hindsight?

A couple of things I've just noticed: the 'feet' on the Puma's cubby box are strips of timber that appear to be screwed on from inside. Hard to remove these (as instructed to) without damage. And How is the box sealed to the vehicle? The plate I've removed has rubber strips attached that have prevented what looks like a ton of mud from making its way inside. The exbox hasn't been supplied with anything similar. Is silicone or sikaflex required?

Cheers!

[Drover]

And How is the box sealed to the vehicle? The plate I've removed has rubber strips attached that have prevented what looks like a ton of mud from making its way inside. The exbox hasn't been supplied with anything similar. Is silicone or sikaflex required?

Cheers!

Use a good quality double sided tape, 3M or something as good. Can't help with consul as the SVX is different.

Some good advise, take your time and don't rush it. Also get some heat shield to fit to the under side of the of the ExBox, it will pay off in the long run and it is near impossible to retro fit.

Good luck.

[chook73]

Use a good quality double sided tape, 3M or something as good. Can't help with consul as the SVX is different.

Some good advise, take your time and don't rush it. Also get some heat shield to fit to the under side of the of the ExBox, it will pay off in the long run and it is near impossible to retro fit.

Good luck.

Second the heat shield, I wish I had done it and there is no way I could do it now.

The feet came off my cubby easily.

[jc109]

Use a good quality double sided tape, 3M or something as good. Can't help with consul as the SVX is different.

Some good advise, take your time and don't rush it. Also get some heat shield to fit to the under side of the of the ExBox, it will pay off in the long run and it is near impossible to retro fit.

Good luck.

Thanks heaps Drover. I'd never have thought of the heat shield. I bought some Sikaflex today but I'll do a search for that tape tomorrow.

As far as taking my time with things goes, I don't really have much choice! I've always considered myself pretty handy, but I don't think I'll be driving much over the next few days given how things are progressing with the wiring.

And Chook, thanks for the advice on the feet. They were just glued were they? I know you have a Puma so I'll assume that ours are the same. I guess I'll see what happens once I use a bit of force.

Cheers gents.

[Def_9]

Hey JC, Yes looking back like Drover mentioned take your time and do it properly, read the instructions from mulgo carefully and then re-read cause there are points that get forgotten along the way. I think unless you fit a couple of these the first time will take a while for you to get your head around the details and I cant really think of any short cuts other than pull the front seats out, if not both at least the drivers side, makes access a lot easier.

The heat shielding is a good idea, I couldn't source anything here in Karratha so I'm hoping to find something when Im back closer to civilisation, any suggestions on sourcing something suitable? Drover?

As for the cubby box yes the feet were defiantly stuck on mine but with some gentle persuasion they came off. Although I didn't like the fact that the only thing holding it to the exbox is about 5mm of MDF that is likely to allow the bolts to pull straight through so I used some panel washers to spread the load.

Sealing my exbox around the trans tunnel at the moment is some of the same sort of stuff as original (foam tape/weather seal) from the local auto pro until I sort out the heat shielding/sound proofing.

That's about all i can think of at the moment. But defiantly make sure you enjoy modifying your D with the care only yourself would take, or at least thats what i tell myself when I end up spending a ridiculous amount of time on a job. :eek::D

[DEFENDERZOOK]

what is being used for heat shielding.....and where exactly......?
i too want to purchase and fit one of these one day when i have some funds available.......so this information and experience will be greatly appreciated......

[Drover]

what is being used for heat shielding.....and where exactly......?
i too want to purchase and fit one of these one day when i have some funds available.......so this information and experience will be greatly appreciated......


The heat shield is for the bottom (under side) of the X-Box, during the install the cover plate under the cubby box is replaced by the X-Box.

As the X-Box sits right above the gear box it is big source of heat transfer into the cab.

I got my heat shield from ebay, 1m x 1.2m sheet of self adhesive backed, for about $30 delivered.
Car Turbo Exhaust Muffler Insulation Heat Shield Mat | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Turbo-Exhaust-Muffler-Insulation-Heat-Shield-Mat-/230635396677?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b2f0de45)

I used the remaining to line the transmission tunnel and floor, along with some ceramic exhaust wrap, it all works a treat

[jc109]

Another point for people to note is the fact that in addition to those tools listed in the instructions you'll also need some Torx bits/keys. One for the cubby box (although I made do without in that case) and one to remove some of the cables from the fuse box.

Now can anyone tell me how to remove the other cables from under there? The white plugs don't seem to want to budge from under the fuse box and I don't want to break anything by struggling with them if there's a simple solution.

Thanks once again everyone.

[Mulgo]

Put a flathead screwdriver in between the slot on the side of the plugs. This will release the locking mechanism. Then pull the plug out.






-----------------------
Mulgo Pty Ltd
Expedition Vehicles & Equipment
69 Anderson Road, Mortdale NSW 2223
P 0438183507 - www.mulgo.com.au

purchase your 4WD equipment online:
www.expeditioncentre.com.au

Family Off Road Trailer:
www.missiontrailers.com.au

[GyroLandy]

use dinamat for heat shield (or the stuff from ebay aboe) and add 6-8mm of E-therm on top

[jc109]

G'day guys,

Can anyone tell me whether what you see in this photo is an issue?

I didn't bother to check first, and I've now found that the hole in the ExBox is a smaller diameter than the original, meaning that the rubber boot is too large for the new hole. I really want to avoid pulling everything out again to fit a new boot, and nor do I want to stuff around with a file in such close proximity to the wires. So, do you think this will be okay if I just fill the gap you see with a heap of silicone?

Thanks guys. Almost there.

[Def_9]

Hi JC,

I had the same issue, but was able to squish the boot around until the fold came out. You could then silicone it in place although I didn't because I felt it is sealed well enough.

Cheers Lucas.

[jc109]

Thanks Lucas. I'll persevere then.

[GyroLandy]

For all the wirese running from the switches to the exbox what thickness should these wires be? SHoudl I just use black and red?

I'm running a wire from my ignition to provide power to the exbox from where I will patch the necessary switches through, must this be a thicker wire?

Did you use some wort of insulation/sheath for the cables underneath the vehicle?

[Mulgo]

Thanks Lucas. I'll persevere then.

Yes, pull it through. It is a tight fit but it will properly seal. In the original under seat box, this grommet is actually quite loose and doesn't seal properly. That's the reason we made it a tighter fit. After all we want it to be water and dust tight.

Cheers,
Daniel

[Def_9]

Here is a pic of how mine looks at the moment.

[jc109]

Okay, I believe you now. It took a heat gun and a whole lot of swearing, but it's done. Thank you.

[goingbush]

I fitted my exbox yesterday (td5 110) and just found this post.
Looks like I'll have to get some heat shield .

I keep knocking my elbow on the front of the cubby box in tight left turns and my forearm is rubbing on it during gear changes, which is really annoying.

anyone else have these issues, do you put up with it or hope to get used to it,
I'll give it a go for a week or so but Think I'll have to chop it down 1 - 1.5"

[KarlB]

I fitted my exbox yesterday (td5 110) and just found this post.
Looks like I'll have to get some heat shield .

I keep knocking my elbow on the front of the cubby box in tight left turns and my forearm is rubbing on it during gear changes, which is really annoying.

anyone else have these issues, do you put up with it or hope to get used to it,
I'll give it a go for a week or so but Think I'll have to chop it down 1 - 1.5"

I knocked my elbow for a week or so until I got used to the new height. Not an issue after that.

Cheers
KarlB
:)