Dual battery Install

[discobaz4311]

So last year i was searching through this forum and found a really good, very detailed outline of an install of a dual battery into one of the rear cargo Bins. Im fairly sure that it was for a series 2... But now that i really need that info i can't seem to relocate it. Does anyone know where it could be hiding or maybe which member did the install?

Thanks

discobaz

[isuzutoo-eh]

You are probably looking in the wrong spot, you have posted in the Series Land Rover section, not the Discovery section.

[p38arover]

Moved to the correct area.

[Mundy]

Discobaz,
There's a good thread on dual battery install into rear cargo bin in post:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/137182-d2-dual-battery-setup.html

Within this long thread there is a lot of discussion of issues and there are links to other install instals.

Not sure if I've pasted the link correctly as I am not sure how to do it.

I've just finished relocating my dual battery from under bonnet to rear left bin. I'll take and paste a photo for you shortly.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Great post Mundy:cool:

any pitfalls with a rear bin install??

[Mundy]

Great post Mundy:cool:

any pitfalls with a rear bin install??


Not really, for me. I'd already had the cabling to the rear power users (lights, compressor, water pump, fridge, camera, outlets) from the original installation so the only difficulties were getting support under the bin bottom for the heavy battery without pulling everything apart, and getting the location of the drilling through the bin and vehicle floor right so you don't hit one of the various captive nuts or floor ridges. Of course, space is always a premium so I've lost 3/4 of the bin and don't know quite what to do with the stuff I had in there. I am in the process of making a shelf to go over the battery.

I also included a bypass switch in the rear bin, in parallel with the isolator, so that if the isolator dies, the second battery dies or if you wish to connect both batteries without the engine running you can get power to the rear power users. I also used eyebolts as through the floor so so I can easily connect the battery hold down bolts and also remove the battery without leaving unsealed holes in the floor.

The only other thing is that I have gone to using bus bars for power supply but am amazed you can't seem to get 12v bus bars with covers. So I've had to come up with a cover for the positive bars to avoid unfortune shorting contact.

[Jedimastermat]

Hi All
I went from SLS to coils, just a personal liking, I have seen many a debate eaither way here. It left where the compressorwas free under the passenger door. Does anyone know of a dual install with the battery there? It looks like an 80Ahr will fit there. Its just the bracket to hold it in that would stump a double left thumbed person like me.
cheers
Mat

[Fluids]

Hi Mat. I have a client at work who has a D2a V8 with coils, and he installed a 48A/Hr Optima Yellow top, on it's side, on the SLS compressor tray. He has a solar panel permanantley on the roof rack connected to the Optima.

[Mundy]

As promised, attached are the photos of the rear bin battery install. Looks a little like a dog's breakfast in the first photo but it isn't that bad. The second photo shows the shelf installed.

[discobaz4311]

Thanks mundy thats a great help, definitely got more of an idea of what i need to do for the dual battery install in the rear cargo bin. Just curious after looking at your photos, is that a little water pump i can see there? pretty sure ive just bought the same one and was wondering if they were any good?

Thanks once again

Disco baz

[Mundy]

Discobaz,
In terms of water flow rate, it works very well for me and I love the system. I have a 45L poly tank wedged behind rear passenger seat (there's a post on this from a couple of years ago with a sketch and photos).

The only niggles are:
1. if you don't use the pump for a while, it flavours the water that's been sitting in it, which is a little disappointing as is supposed to be for drinking purposes. However, not a big issue, before I take the water, I just run a cup or two before first use or if its been sitting overnight.
2. the pump cuts off when you shut the tap but doesn't seem to seal completely and "blips" on and off every 10s or so, which I find annoying. So, I turn the pump on and off with the blue switch you can see in the photo.
3. the outlet barb is a funny size (small) and I had to make a series of step up fittings and hose sizes to be able to fit a reasonable tap on the end of the hose. It may be the issue in 2. is to do with the fittings but I haven't seen any leaks so I assume its the pump which allows a little backflow.

[Sharkee]

Gday disco baz, I dont know if your interested but here is a link to some pics of my dual battery installed in the right hand third row seatwell of my old td5.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/119541-d2-dual-battery-set-up-compressor-cb-fitting-rear-shovel-axe-holder.html

[discobaz4311]

Thanks sharkee, thats a pretty good set up aswell, havent decided whether or not to go for the battery case like yourself or try and set it up so the cargo bin still looks normal. Only problem being is im not too sure if a deep cycle battery will fit in the cargo bin? the set up i look up said that the exide orbital deep cycle/cranking battery would fit, but surely a sealed century one would be similar. With the stock cigarette lighter outputs, did you run them out of the auxillary battery once it was installed? or leave them off the main power?

also love your shovel holder mount of the rear tyre, was hoping to do something similar for a set of maxtrax with some sort of locking mechanism!

thanks

[Sharkee]

Gday Baz I had it originally like you see but then changed it as I purchased the 5 seater bins and fitted it in there. I made up some brackets that utilised the seat mount bolts to hold the battery. I had a deep cycle in there, I think it was the one I still have now a 120a/h fullriver. I very carefully took the pins out of the lid to make it easier to get in and then replaced the lid on afterwards. I ran a fusebox in there and ran those 12v sockets you see in that pic. 2 inbuilt and the 2 independant ones. I dont think I have a pic of it installed in the bin. Was great to have all that power and ya did'nt even know it was there.Unfortunately my shovel/axe holder had to stay on the 80 I just sold as it was also holding the number plate.

Steve

[discoteck]

Dss do bus bars with covers

[discobaz4311]

Definitely want to go for the rear bin option like you have sharkee, with a volt meter up near the dash so i can check the volts of both batteries. Also would like something installed at the other end near the rear cargo bin that tells me how many amps is being drained from the battery. That way i know for certain how much each appliance is pulling out of my auxillary battery. would i be looking for an ammeter to do this?

[Mundy]

Definitely want to go for the rear bin option like you have sharkee, with a volt meter up near the dash so i can check the volts of both batteries. Also would like something installed at the other end near the rear cargo bin that tells me how many amps is being drained from the battery. That way i know for certain how much each appliance is pulling out of my auxillary battery. would i be looking for an ammeter to do this?

I have installed a voltmeter in my front dash pod, with a switch to choose either the main or auxilliary battery. Next time I'd not bother with reading the main battery charge. I almost always just read the auxilliary. I never need to know the state of charge of the main battery unless I have a problem and then I can use a multimeter. You can tell the alternator output voltage from the auxilliary battery meter.

If you wish to know about current draw then you will need an ammeter. I assume you can get 'tong' type ammeters but usually the issue with an ammeter is all the current needs to go through the meter, which means thicker cables, some voltage loss and increased risk of an open circuit. This isn't the case with a volt meter. In my opinion, knowing the instantaneous current draw isn't as important as knowing the state of charge of the battery. So, for example, a fridge may draw 4A when cycled on, but almost nothing when off. So how do you know how much you've used over an hour, unless you stand and track the on and off times? In my view, an ammeter is only of real value in problem solving, not general running.

[Roberto]

My second battery (Optima yellow top) is mounted down the back where the plastic thingy used to be (I stripped out all the unnecessary plastic bits). The cable from the front battery runs under the car along a chassis rail and up through the L rear tail light assembly into the cabin. There is a voltage sensitive switch and a 50 Amp fuse near the front battery, and a Ctek charger down the back to raise the voltage to 14.6 for effective charging. The system is monitored with a Nasa Battery Monitor.

[Sharkee]

Gday Baz I just picked up my new TD5 today and I will be getting some of the 5 seater bins (mine is a seven seater) to put mine in there again. Its neat and out of sight. Best way to go I think!
Mmmm got to start all over again:(

[Franz]

Great post Mundy:cool:

any pitfalls with a rear bin install??

There is one - it's that you are adding another 25+kg behind the rear axle - more stress on the rear suspension. Does not seem drastic but add in drawers, fridge and other paraphernalia and you easily get 180kg of additional weight over the rear axle.