View Full Version : Mods to Disco 2 (01) TD5 for towing
Suswa
31st May 2012, 03:38 PM
Hi guys,
I've just purchased an 01 TD5, and am looking to set it up for towing my horse float.
We will get a Haymen Reese with sway bars (current tow vehicle an old Rangie has the same system and float set up for sway bars). The float weighs about 1T unladen and I usually carry anything from 1.5T up to 3.5T(unlikely), but more likely to have about 2-2.5T for longer trips (1000kms each way).
I was also thinking about adding on a transmission cooler, and maybe airbag suspension in the rear?
Any other recommendations for mods or specific brands for the trans cooler and suspension that will help keep it alive & healthy whilst towing???
Banjo_pluker
31st May 2012, 05:59 PM
Unfortunately without starting a huge debate the 01 disco states in the manual that you cannot use sway bars. I had a tocunsia ( sorry spelling) it didn't work well with the electrics. This could have been the way it was installed so take care with electric brake install
Suswa
31st May 2012, 06:09 PM
Thanks Banjo - sorry I've written the wrong name for them, it is actually a Weight Distribution System.
Hayman Reese (http://www.haymanreese.com.au/products/weightdistributionsystems.htm)
OffTrack
31st May 2012, 06:17 PM
What gearbox does your D2 have? Also is it SLS or coils on the rear?
Banjo_pluker
31st May 2012, 06:20 PM
WDH was what I was thinking you meant. Unfortunately LR say you can't use them. In saying that many people use them
Suswa
31st May 2012, 06:33 PM
Off track - its an auto. I'm assuming coils and not SLS from memory
Thanks Banjo - I had searched for sway bars and discovery but hadn't come up with anything on the www - will have a chat to HR I guess and see what they think.
Suswa
31st May 2012, 06:36 PM
Off track - its an auto. I'm assuming coils and not SLS from memory
Thanks Banjo - I had searched for sway bars and discovery but hadn't come up with anything on the www - will have a chat to HR I guess and see what they think.
Finding heaps of stuff now I'm searching for the right terms :D
Banjo_pluker
31st May 2012, 07:58 PM
I found mine great to tow but I didn't have a moving object in the back
OffTrack
31st May 2012, 08:35 PM
The auto already has a transmission cooler but I believe fitting a cooler from a p38a range rover is fairly common upgrade for heavy usage.
Suswa
31st May 2012, 08:48 PM
Yeah true Banjo - it makes a big difference towing live weight than not :) Its amazing how much everything moves when on the freeway and a semi flies past, the horses only need to freak out a bit and you suddenly have a swaying metal lug attached to the 4x4.
Thanks Offtrack I'll have a look online for the part and ask the mechanic :)
Banjo_pluker
31st May 2012, 11:29 PM
The auto already has a transmission cooler but I believe fitting a cooler from a p38a range rover is fairly common upgrade for heavy usage.
If I remember correctly a post has been done explaining how to do it. I cant remember his name but he did the power change over ECU's in his spare time.
Suswa
1st June 2012, 12:17 AM
If I remember correctly a post has been done explaining how to do it. I cant remember his name but he did the power change over ECU's in his spare time.
Thanks Banjo will do some searching.
Probably stupid question - but in my searching of the forums I've come across recommendations for an Engine Saver. What does this do (sorry my car knowledge pretty much extends to changing a tyre, checking the oil & water and refueling :angel:) ETA: I think I've found my answer - its an alarm to indicate low coolant!
slug_burner
1st June 2012, 04:18 AM
Thanks Banjo will do some searching.
Probably stupid question - but in my searching of the forums I've come across recommendations for an Engine Saver. What does this do (sorry my car knowledge pretty much extends to changing a tyre, checking the oil & water and refueling :angel:) ETA: I think I've found my answer - its an alarm to indicate low coolant!
Bingo, yes it is a low coolant level alarm. Worthwhile as the loss of coolant is usually an early sign of worse things to come. If you can stop before overheating the engine your repair may only be a head gasket instead of a head as well.
WD Harness is not recommended with self leveling suspension, think it is ok with coils.
Pedro_The_Swift
1st June 2012, 06:47 AM
are horse floats built any differently to normal car trailers?
They seem to always have the wheels way back and be very low--
anyone?
Disco EMU
1st June 2012, 07:23 AM
Certainly worth while to check the towball weight of your trailer.
The airbags inside your coils WILL make a difference ... I got mine from www.truckspring.com in the states. Delivered to my door for around $150. (you'll find that they're around $300 here in AU) Easy to self install too!
Suswa
1st June 2012, 08:11 AM
Thanks slug - sounds like its worth it.
Pedro - I'll take a photo of the float to show what its like.
Thanks Disco EMU - I'll try and get to a weighbridge and work out the total weight & tow ball weight. Although won't the tow ball weight differ depending on how much I have loaded on?
slug_burner
1st June 2012, 08:30 AM
Both boat trailers and horse floats have most weight down the rear end of the trailer. To retain a positive tow ball weight the wheels on the trailer have to be moved back. For trailers that do not require a lot of ground clearance a drop axle can be used to lower the CoG, with horse floats they need all the help they can get with respect to CoG.
Suswa
1st June 2012, 10:38 AM
This is the float
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/1333.jpg
Banjo_pluker
1st June 2012, 04:04 PM
Looks like it is behind a range rover
Suswa
1st June 2012, 05:55 PM
Sure is - the old girl will now be retired!
Slunnie
1st June 2012, 07:30 PM
are horse floats built any differently to normal car trailers?
They seem to always have the wheels way back and be very low--
anyone?
As already said, they have most mass near the rear, so the axles are closer to the rear.
The construction is also different. Cross members are lighter in a horse float and made from angle etc with a high strength manufactured timber floor bolted to it. The sides of the trailer also don't produce a lot of rigidity in comparison to a car trailer. Axles closer to the rear where the load and loading door are.
The car trailer typically has RHS main rails and cross members and has a truss type structure to pull a lot of rigidity into the chassis - this is more necessary due to the point loads from the car and loading stresses when the car goes onto the trailer. Axles are in a more regular position and are regular axles, not set low with stepped/drop axles like on a horse float.
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