View Full Version : Things I need for Head Gasket change
PeterAllen
1st June 2012, 12:44 PM
I am really getting out of my comfort zone and am planning to tackle the head gasket. Suspect leak from right hand bank blowing out to the side on cylinder six.
I need to know what I need to order to acheive this.
1. VRS Kit ( not sure what this has in it though)
- Head Gasket x2
-Inlet manifold Gasket
- manifold seals x2
-Plenum gasket x1
- rocker cover gaskets x2
-head bolt set
2. New Camshaft?
3.New timing chain?
4. Cam bearing?
5.Valve seals x 16?
6. Crank gear
7. New lifters x16?
8. Timing cover seal ?
9.Timing cover gasket?
Is this a complete list? Too much? or things I have missed/
Any advise appreciated.
Once all apart, I expect the heads will need to be machined at least thats what I have read. Is this the way to go or just enough to clean the face up and whack it all back together. If yes to machining, has anyone a reliable resource in Sydney.
33chinacars
2nd June 2012, 12:02 AM
If Thats IF its just a head gasket you will only need a VRS kit & have the heads checked for straightness & if needed machined. Also check to see if liners have slipped. Unless your doing a rebuild you shouldn't need other parts. Not sure on Rover head bolts.
Gary
Blknight.aus
2nd June 2012, 06:27 AM
v8, tdi series and isuzu head bolts are reusable... HOWEVER, I reccomend replacing them and saving the resuse value for when you need it in the field.
p38oncoils
2nd June 2012, 08:50 AM
When you have the heads machined ask the machine shop to machine the intake manifold as well to match up with the heads so that the ports and bolt holes match up after the heads have been machined.
DT-P38
2nd June 2012, 06:23 PM
If you are feeling uncomfortable search for PaulP38's info on top end rebuild. He makes great instructional blog's (with photo's) that will help you as a point of reference if nothing else.
This link: http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/engine-refresh/
wanglemoose
3rd June 2012, 09:19 AM
i believe you have forgotten the most important thing in undertaking a job like this....... copious amounts of alcohol, without it you will hate every minute of the job. :twobeers:
PeterAllen
3rd June 2012, 10:21 AM
Needless to say. The beer supply will be addressed before ordering the gasket kit. It seems from many that doing the cam and lifters is not necessary. Also i have been told you cant get studs for this engine and just replace the head bolts with new ones. I assume the composite gasket is preferable .
PaulP38a
3rd June 2012, 12:04 PM
If you get the thicker composite gaskets, get the heads shaved to compensate or you will lose compression... So I have been told.
PhilipA
3rd June 2012, 12:39 PM
38A all have composite gaskets.
Regards Philip A
wayneg
3rd June 2012, 06:38 PM
If you plan to replace the timing gears and chain it seems silly to me not to change the cam and lifters whilst its all accessible.
Have a read here on camshaft wear on Rover V8`s.........RPi Engineering - V8 Engines (http://www.v8engines.com/engine-4.htm)
PeterAllen
3rd June 2012, 07:02 PM
If i can get away with it i am only going to do the gasket and not the timing or camshaft.. a mechanic friend suggested taking the rocker cover off and retorquing the bolts on the head as onless the leak has actually blown the gasket part out . He reckons its worth a try. He only suggested this as its only symptom is the noise and gas escaping from the head and has not affected the oil or water passages. I will probably just do the gasket in any event
Hoges
3rd June 2012, 09:17 PM
re-torquing the head with the original stretch bolts is not really an option... there are others more knowledgeable who may be able to advise you but I am under the impression that the headbolts are one-time use. If the head bolts were replaced with studs/nuts perhaps a re-torque would be OK. I've not explored the possibility of replacing the bolts one-at -a time with head studs to achieve the same result...
42rangie
7th June 2012, 12:33 PM
Agree with Hoges. Previously stretched head bolts do not re-torque accurately.
I worked in a auto repair/parts distributor in a previos life and learned a lot from the owner. Was told this and that studs were better as there was not the
stresses on the threads in the block that could strip them. Half the things i learned there is obsolete on modern engines ( "where's my Zimmer frame?")
Regards,
Les
PeterAllen
7th June 2012, 01:31 PM
I have only a problem with the gasket between no.6 and 8 cylinder on the one bank.
I am considering only doing that head and not the other side and all in between.
Is this a mistake? should I do both sides and be done with it or safe and fair to repair only the blown side. At least if the other side blows later on I would have the experience to fix it pronto and the gasket and bolts at the ready.
What say you learned folk?
Psimpson7
7th June 2012, 02:36 PM
Having just done this (last week) on our v8 D2, I would suggest that you do both at once.
I would also convert to ARP studs and nuts.
It is a lot of work to only do one side.
I only had a slight water leak from the front of one head but did both and wouldnt even have considered just doing 1.
PeterAllen
7th June 2012, 03:53 PM
I have been in contact with ARP in the US and they have advised that they do not make studs suitable for the Gems engine.
Did yours blow on the drivers side bank or the near side?
Psimpson7
7th June 2012, 03:58 PM
Near side, very very slight water leak for ages, that got a bit worse.
As far as I can see ARP studs to suit a Rover v8 are ARP studs, and you would most likely need the 10 stud kit.
I got a 10 stud kit for our 2003 (Thor) Fitted perfectly.
Came from v8tuner.co.uk
PeterAllen
20th June 2012, 03:49 PM
Got the head gasket set and head bolts yesterday and whilst reading thru Rave noticed that you are suppose to renew the 4 rocker cover screw/bolts securing the rocker cover to cylinder head on each side. AS none of these came with the gasket kit, is this essential?
Still stumped where all these bits and pieces are suppose to go. Have 16 little rubber o rings and 16 other little fittings ( suppose they go somewhere on the valves). 8 larger rubber rings one per cylinder somewhere and three brass washes, and two larger o rings? Guess it will become obvious as pull down progresses.
Should be an educational weekend.
PhilipA
20th June 2012, 04:00 PM
Have 16 little rubber o rings and 16 other little fittings ( suppose they go somewhere on the valves). 8 larger rubber rings one per cylinder somewhere and three brass washes, and two larger o rings? Guess it will become obvious as pull down progresses.
Should be an educational weekend.
The 16 little rubber o rings are for your injectors.
The 16 other little fittings are new valve stem seals ( you should have the heads serviced anyway)
8 larger rubber rings??? you got me
two larger O rings. One will be for the water pipe from manifold to heater. probably both.
AND , no you don't have to replace the rocker cover bolts.
Regards Philip A
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