glenhendry
11th June 2012, 08:59 AM
I ran out of fuel the other day due to a bad sender unit showing the wrong level. I switched to LPG and drove to a fuel station no problem. I got 98 litres into the tank so it was really empty! After I filled it with premium, it wouldnt start on fuel. No matter how long I cranked it.
There was no pressure at the fuel rail schraeder valve. I switched out the fuel pump relay - no change. The fuel pump fuse was blown, but after replacing it, it still didnt start! I couldnt hear the fuel pump running, but then I never really have. I opened the petrol cap to vent, no improvement. I was getting voltage at the fuel pump connector. With the access hole cut I could hear the pump running, but it must have been too weak to pressurise the system. Either way, running out of fuel is a bad idea, as it finished off my pump, and somehow made the fuel pump fuse blow.
I decided I needed to put another fuel pump in, but I had just filled it with 98 litres which makes it hard to drop the tank down. I have another tank and pump, so I opted to open up the floor under the back seat and access that way. Here are some pics and lessons learned.
Main instructions here (http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/fuelpump4.html)on RR.net.
Excellent pics of the cut dimensions here (http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/tank-fuel-pump-template-p38-109368.html).
I cut the carpet with a stanley knife and then cut the insulation out in a square piece. Then I cut the metal floor with a dremel (I went through about 7 crappy little discs) being careful not to go deep and cut any of the fuel tank pipes. Turned out to be no problem. The cutting only took about 1.5 hrs. Then I bent up the new access hole plate and took the hose to it for 15 minutes, to wash all the crud away from the pump retaining ring. Then I used a hair dryer to thoroughly dry the area.
It was easy to get the pump retaining ring off and on without the LR tool, I just used hammer and screwdriver carefully. I reused the existing fuel pump rubber gasket - if it comes off the tank with the pump, remember to put that gasket onto the tank before finalising the pump in its position, you wont be able to get the gasket to sit right if you leave it attached to the pump.
Back to the old fuel filter position question - there is none visible or obvious on the 99+ models. It certainly isnt under the sil like in the GEMS models. I thought there was one in the tank, but I found no such filter in there.
So it fired up after the new pump went in, and the fuel gauge works again! Also, I have a tidy access hole for the next pump to be changed. :)
Here is the alternate link for the pics (https://picasaweb.google.com/105878078807082914833/RRP38FuelPumpReplacementJune2012?authuser=0&feat=directlink).
There was no pressure at the fuel rail schraeder valve. I switched out the fuel pump relay - no change. The fuel pump fuse was blown, but after replacing it, it still didnt start! I couldnt hear the fuel pump running, but then I never really have. I opened the petrol cap to vent, no improvement. I was getting voltage at the fuel pump connector. With the access hole cut I could hear the pump running, but it must have been too weak to pressurise the system. Either way, running out of fuel is a bad idea, as it finished off my pump, and somehow made the fuel pump fuse blow.
I decided I needed to put another fuel pump in, but I had just filled it with 98 litres which makes it hard to drop the tank down. I have another tank and pump, so I opted to open up the floor under the back seat and access that way. Here are some pics and lessons learned.
Main instructions here (http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/fuelpump4.html)on RR.net.
Excellent pics of the cut dimensions here (http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/tank-fuel-pump-template-p38-109368.html).
I cut the carpet with a stanley knife and then cut the insulation out in a square piece. Then I cut the metal floor with a dremel (I went through about 7 crappy little discs) being careful not to go deep and cut any of the fuel tank pipes. Turned out to be no problem. The cutting only took about 1.5 hrs. Then I bent up the new access hole plate and took the hose to it for 15 minutes, to wash all the crud away from the pump retaining ring. Then I used a hair dryer to thoroughly dry the area.
It was easy to get the pump retaining ring off and on without the LR tool, I just used hammer and screwdriver carefully. I reused the existing fuel pump rubber gasket - if it comes off the tank with the pump, remember to put that gasket onto the tank before finalising the pump in its position, you wont be able to get the gasket to sit right if you leave it attached to the pump.
Back to the old fuel filter position question - there is none visible or obvious on the 99+ models. It certainly isnt under the sil like in the GEMS models. I thought there was one in the tank, but I found no such filter in there.
So it fired up after the new pump went in, and the fuel gauge works again! Also, I have a tidy access hole for the next pump to be changed. :)
Here is the alternate link for the pics (https://picasaweb.google.com/105878078807082914833/RRP38FuelPumpReplacementJune2012?authuser=0&feat=directlink).