View Full Version : 02 TD5 Cruise, Driving lights, Check engine light!!
pormpaul
12th June 2012, 08:46 AM
Hey Everyone,
On returning from Alice Springs yesterday. After haivng covered 450kms with the cruise control on the whole time. It was strating to get dark about 50k from home. I put lights on as normal. Then switched on Hi -beam when all of a sudden Cruise control disenganged and the check engine light came on!. Pulled over. Switched off and on again. Everything worked fine and continued.
Any thoughts?
P.S thought I would share a pic of my munchkins!!!
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/246579_10151179068603275_600396651_n.jpg
Rok_Dr
12th June 2012, 09:57 AM
I'm not an expert but my first thoughts would be a bad earth or poor electrical connection some where.
I had a similar problem with a brand new Toyota V8 70 series hire wagon, last week in Alice. The blocked fuel filter light triggered in concert with dash lights randomly flashing and a loss of power on high beam. Fuel filter was clean as a whistle. The client was not happy as it restricted what we could achieve in the time available in the field. At the end of the day it appeared there was a loose connection most likely in the extensive suite of after market electrics fitted to the vehicle so that it it could gain entry to minesites.
Cheers
Steve
allnewlife
12th June 2012, 11:19 AM
As with any computer ecquipped vehicle, ECUs need a stable electrical environment to work. Things that can upset the system include:-
1) Poor quality low capacity battery. Should be the largest sealed calcium, or better battery.
2) Loose and/or corroded battery Terminals/electrical connections.
3) Alternator brushes/regulator need replacing. Worn brushes can cause inconsistent output/voltage fluctuations, even though the dash warning light may not indicate a problem.
pormpaul
12th June 2012, 12:25 PM
As with any computer ecquipped vehicle, ECUs need a stable electrical environment to work. Things that can upset the system include:-
1) Poor quality low capacity battery. Should be the largest sealed calcium, or better battery.
2) Loose and/or corroded battery Terminals/electrical connections.
3) Alternator brushes/regulator need replacing. Worn brushes can cause inconsistent output/voltage fluctuations, even though the dash warning light may not indicate a problem.
Its not the Battery, Thats Brand new, Terminals and connections are all fine.
Must be the Alternator. How can I test it? How hard are they to replace.
nedflanders
15th June 2012, 03:44 AM
Doesn't sound like an alternator if after restarting it was OK, sounds more like a bad earth, maybe switching the spots on put to much load on a bad earth which cut the cruise, finding it though is another matter!
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