Spare wheel winder access via socket extension

[Stuart02]

I promise I've searched hard to find the answer to this, but can some one please tell me if they've done the 'hole in the floor with a socket extension attached to the winder' operation, without removing the third row seats and putting in a false floor?

It seems to me you'd have to at least remove the plastic cowlings off the seat hinges. And then removing or puncturing that rubber bung would potentially let in a fair bit of dust?

If someone could engineer a traditional access via the rear bumper option, or a motorised remotely operated option, it'd be worth several hundred bucks to owners to fit, rather than having to go the rear wheel carrier option.

All I want to do is be able to put a fridge on a slide in the back of the car!!!

Many thanks

[eddomak]

Check out this thread, particularly the end of it with quite a few pictures:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/105413-extension-socket-spare-wheel-mechanism.html#post1271066

I tried doing a search through the forum as well, but it was too hard (not enough "advanced" options to ensure all the words were there).

P.S. You can get Google to do the hard work and restricting it to a specific domain/site by prefacing your search with site:<domain name>
eg site:www.aulro.com (http://www.aulro.com) spare wheel socket extension between seat

[Stuart02]

Check out this thread, particularly the end of it with quite a few pictures:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/105413-extension-socket-spare-wheel-mechanism.html#post1271066

I tried doing a search through the forum as well, but it was too hard (not enough "advanced" options to ensure all the words were there).

P.S. You can get Google to do the hard work and restricting it to a specific domain/site by prefacing your search with site:<domain name>
eg site:www.aulro.com (http://www.aulro.com) spare wheel socket extension between seat
Ah thanks so much Eddomak - at the administrators' discretion I'll leave the thread up, perhaps it'll help others find what they're looking for too.

[rufusking]

The only thing I have found with this arrangement is the dust that comes up through the opening. Using the existing rubber blanking plug try punching / cutting a hole just less then the diameter of the extension shaft and to make it easier to get the head of the extension through put a couple of cross cuts in the rubber. My version of this is based on a old cross wheel brace where I cut of the cross piece off and the opposite end of the socket leaving about 30mm sticking above the deck. I drilled a 6mm hole through the shaft and put a removable tommy bar through it when I need to drop the spare.

[Glynhouse]

I am glad it is not just me that has a problem with the search function on this site, I can never find anything !
Will try the google tip next time thanks.

DD

[johneyles]

I promise I've searched hard to find the answer to this, but can some one please tell me if they've done the 'hole in the floor with a socket extension attached to the winder' operation, without removing the third row seats and putting in a false floor?

It seems to me you'd have to at least remove the plastic cowlings off the seat hinges. And then removing or puncturing that rubber bung would potentially let in a fair bit of dust?

If someone could engineer a traditional access via the rear bumper option, or a motorised remotely operated option, it'd be worth several hundred bucks to owners to fit, rather than having to go the rear wheel carrier option.

All I want to do is be able to put a fridge on a slide in the back of the car!!!

Many thanks

Hi Stuart02, I use a:

Kincrome 250mm Wobble Extension Bar (http://www.myshopping.com.au/GO--1218476235_shopping)
Chrome vanadium steel hardened tempered chrome plated and polished for corrosion protection Enables sockets to be driven at up to 15 degrees to the vertical. Spring loaded ball bearing holds socket securely.

This allows me to leave one seat down (with the fridge and slide on top) while I lift up the other seat, take off the rubber cover and slip the socket with the Wobble extension onto the winder and then use a standard 1/2 inch ratchet to wind the spare up or down.

best of luck, john

[PaulGOz]

I have found the factory rubber cover very effective at keeping the dust out having forgotten to put it on once. I actually now use a piece of wire coiled into a circle under the factory cap that has one end extending up between the seats I can then pull this wire and slide the cover aside to get to the socket with the 1/4 inch drive. It is not easy to get the rubber on but I figure if i needed the spare I probably have bigger worries than a little dust or water ingress.

[IvanR]

As PaulGoz said use a 1/4'" extension bar adapted to a 22mm socket. The bar will just slide forward between the seats. I have put a cable tie through the tag on the dust cap in a loop and lined up with the gap so as to remove it. The dust cap is definitely needed, as I found out after leaving off. Ivan

[Stuart02]

Hi John,
Just to digress my own thread:- fridge slide attached to the back of the 3rd row seat, or a false floor? Thanks!

[/B][/B]
Hi Stuart02, I use a:

Kincrome 250mm Wobble Extension Bar (http://www.myshopping.com.au/GO--1218476235_shopping)
Chrome vanadium steel hardened tempered chrome plated and polished for corrosion protection Enables sockets to be driven at up to 15 degrees to the vertical. Spring loaded ball bearing holds socket securely.

This allows me to leave one seat down (with the fridge and slide on top) while I lift up the other seat, take off the rubber cover and slip the socket with the Wobble extension onto the winder and then use a standard 1/2 inch ratchet to wind the spare up or down.

best of luck, john

[Stuart02]

As PaulGoz said use a 1/4'" extension bar adapted to a 22mm socket. The bar will just slide forward between the seats. I have put a cable tie through the tag on the dust cap in a loop and lined up with the gap so as to remove it. The dust cap is definitely needed, as I found out after leaving off. Ivan

And I'm guessing worst-case scenario on a water crossing, water could get in too?

[~Rich~]

Seal off around the hole as explained in the before posted link. Caver D3 has photos posted in that link. I did it too before I put in an auxiliary tank.
Looks original & is water & dust proof.

[CaverD3]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/537.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/538.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/539.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/540.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/541.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/542.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/543.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/544.jpg

[johneyles]

Hi John,
Just to digress my own thread:- fridge slide attached to the back of the 3rd row seat, or a false floor? Thanks!

[/B][/B]

Hi Stuart,

My slide is held in place by bolts inserted in the two hold down anchor points and a hook under the seat back that the fridge slide is sitting on.

regards
John

[PJJ]

Gday Stuart02

My solution for this problem has been tried & tested & passed with flying colours.

Parts needed -

One 22mm socket with a 1/4 inch drive in the top.(can be made if none available)

One 225 mm 1/4 drive extension rod

One 1/4 inch drive ratchet (most of this came from Supercheap)

Method -

With the back seat/s up, open the rubber cover plug & place the 22mm socket on the spare wheel 22mm winch drive nut. (it will live there from now on)

Now, with a Stanley knife or similar, carefully put two cuts (X) in the center rubber cover plug. (about 25mm each cut to form a cross directly over the center of the socket. )

Replace the rubber plug back into original position.

Keep the ratchet & extension bar in a handy accessible place.

Lower the rear seats.

To Use-

Carefully slide the extension bar between the plastic covers of the rear seats (it just fits) onto the center of the cross cut into the rubber cover plug. Continue to push it through the plug until it 'engages' the socket under the plug.

You can then lower the spare with the ratchet.

When finished, simply remove the extension bar. The socket stays on the drive nut even if it lifts a little as it will 'top out" on the rubber cover.

I have used this system in my D3 for the last 6 years with no problems.
Because the rubber cover was cut with a 'cross', the drive can enter & retract with little pressure. I have never had any dust get past the cross cut in the rubber & the rubber seal has never lifted from its position.

Because all this happens a short distance from the Tailgate, you can perform the whole operation without removing any gear from the load area. Using the ratchet also makes it easier.

I have just converted my D4 & it works as before - all good.

I hope this is a simpler fix tor you.:)

[Fred Nerk]

My system is based on the pioneers who went before. You may take advantage of what I consider to be improvements.

I have a 3/8in drive 22mm socket engaged to the nut that lowers the spare wheel. To this I have fitted a 3/8 to 1/4 drive reducer. I have applied a little dab of silicon to these to make them stick and not disengage unless a deliberate force is applied. I made a snug round hole in the rubber cover that accommodates the 1/4 drive. (sorry about the blurry picture). I have used three little dabs of silicon (Edit: at the periphery where it seals with the flange/hole in the floor). This is to keep the rubber cover from coming off. The plastic covers on the third row seat hinge covers have been removed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/75.jpg

I have a 1/4 drive extension and a 1/4 ratchet driver. I store it with the jack and tools.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/76.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/77.jpg

I have also cut a little flap in the floor mat to allow the spare wheel to be lowered without unloading the back of the wagon or disturbing the fridge etc.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/78.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/06/79.jpg

No dust has entered despite trips on the Birdsville Track and a trip through William Creek and the Northern Flinders. I reckon it would be water-proof too, but Ive not been deep enough to test it :)

Cost was about $40, but it's worth much more in the effort it saved.:D

[thomasb]

fred ....thanks for posting this refinement i am in the process of getting a similar set up .....(extension bar down through drawers and false floor ) ....but very hard if not impossible to find a 1/4 ' extension bar greater than 150 mm ....any ideas where in sydney such a thing could be found ......also is there any way a 3/8 extension bar would fit down in between the seats if the plastic cover s are removed or is the gap just too narrow ...i think there are longer extension bars in 3/8 and they are easier to find
Also does the 3/8 to 1/4 adaptor interfere with the seats setting back down ...it looks like in the photo it sits pretty flush with the top of the rubber cover .....is it really necessary to remove the two plastic bits ...looks like they are held by 1 or two screws so should not be a big job if i have to ............

cheers
thomas b

[Fred Nerk]

It was easy to find the extension bar at Sprint Auto parts and at Autobahn. There were cheap sets of extension bars of various lengths.

The hard-to-get bit for me, was the 3/8 to 1/4 reducer.

A 3/8 extension bar just wouldn't fit between the seats in my car. This may vary depending on the tolerences when the rear seats are fitted. You might be lucky.

The seats are well clear of the cover and the 1/4 drive socket and there is no issue with the normal function of these seats.

It is necessary to either remove the plastic hinge covers (two screws each) or there is an earlier post in this thread showing a groove cut across the plastic to accomodate the extension bar. I preferred removing the covers. I don't notice that they are gone. They can easily be replaced by the next owner if desired.

[scarry]

The hard-to-get bit for me, was the 3/8 to 1/4 reducer.

.

Trade tools have a good range of these.I picked up a 3/8 male to 1/4 female for another job today for $2.50.

Good thread, another thing i gotta do to the D4.

[Dfourfun]

Fred - and the ingenious gentlemen pioneers before you - you have now solved the 2nd of my three D4 bugbears. Brilliant in it's simplicity and elegant in it's execution, plus I can put it all back to (almost) original condition when need to sell it. (The Mitch Hitch solved bugbear #1 of the 'plough'; now how to get bigger fuel capacity without moving the spare wheel to the rear bumber bar to fit a long range tank... guess it is gonna be jerry cans on the roof)

[eddomak]

Hi all, there is a 20% off all floor stock at SuperCheap Auto this Saturday (7/7/2012), which may help out with the cost of this. :D

[Stuart02]

I have a 1/4 drive extension and a 1/4 ratchet driver. I store it with the jack and tools.



Hi Fred,
Is your drive extension just 150mm, or longer?
Cheers
Stuart02

[Stuart02]

In the end Bunnings had all four components (3/8dr 22mm socket, 3/8M to 1/4F adapter, 150mm 1/4" extension and cheap 1/4" ratchet) for about $35.
I have come across a super short 22mm socket designed for removing motorbike axle nuts, I'll update on the fit-for-purpose when it arrives.

[Fred Nerk]

Sorry that I had not answered earlier, but I have not been checking the threads.

I am pretty sure that the 1/4 extension is 150mm in length and it is a comfortable fit as per the pictures. I'll check it next time I have time and correct this if its wrong.

[Stuart02]

Turns out my wheel winder is slightly off centre to the left. Don't know why, but I only had to take one plastic seat-hinge cover off to get the 1/4" extension through.
The super-short socket doesn't make much practical difference.
The 150mm-long extension comes up about 30mm above floor height, which is probably handy if you're thinking of a false floor.

[Disco4SE]

It was easy to find the extension bar at Sprint Auto parts and at Autobahn. There were cheap sets of extension bars of various lengths.

The hard-to-get bit for me, was the 3/8 to 1/4 reducer.

A 3/8 extension bar just wouldn't fit between the seats in my car. This may vary depending on the tolerences when the rear seats are fitted. You might be lucky.

The seats are well clear of the cover and the 1/4 drive socket and there is no issue with the normal function of these seats.

It is necessary to either remove the plastic hinge covers (two screws each) or there is an earlier post in this thread showing a groove cut across the plastic to accomodate the extension bar. I preferred removing the covers. I don't notice that they are gone. They can easily be replaced by the next owner if desired.
Did mine yesterday.
Got the bits from Bunnings for $33.00 and took about 10 minutes.

Thanks heaps for the useful advise.

BTW: I was surprised how far off centre the lowering bolt was.

Cheers, Craig

[eddomak]

Although I purchased most of the parts last month, I finally got around to completing this modification on Saturday as I was doing a trip on Sunday.

I got:


Kincrome 3/8 drive 22mm socket (Part # K2847) (<$5)
Kincrome 3/8 to 1/4 reducer (Part# K2933) (<$5)
Sidchrome 1/4 150mm extension ($9)
Supertool 1/4 ratchet driver ($7 - in comparison Sidchrome / Kincrome are around $15-$20 each)

Not all Bunnings have these in stock, and neither did my local Repco.



Installation notes:


I found that I do need to remove the seat hinge covers
Cutting an "X" in the rubber dust seal cover does not suffice - a snug hole is better
I used "Shoo Goo" instead of silicone. It tends to be stickier and is also easily removed without a trace. It will also give way if you need to access the area. (I use it a lot in radio control car applications for both metal and plastic).
I think the 150mm extension is fine and protrudes enough from the floor to make it easy to turn. If you get the 225mm extension you may have issues if you have a drawer system (sorry, can't comment from experience).
At first I was concerned that the length of the 1/4 ratchet handle might be a little short (all brands seem to be around the same length) and make it hard work to wind, or too narrow in diameter to give it strength, but all is fine. Note that the picture in Fred's installation seems to be a 3/8 handle (decent length and girth) -> 1/4 adapter -> 1/4 extension -> 3/8 adapter -> 3/8 socket.

Thanks again Fred and others for the great write-up and pictures.

[Nmritchie]

I experienced a flat tyre on my 2014 Discovery SDV6 SE before I appreciated the need for the modifications documented so well in this topic. Murphy arranged a remote Tasmanian gravel road, steep hill and hairpin bend, towing a camper trailer and with the Disco luggage area full with fridge and other gear for me to try lowering the spare wheel. I was just glad there was no traffic, rain or mud!


My first project on returning home was to ensure that experience is never repeated, so I am really grateful for the solution on this forum. My problem was that Land Rover, instead of addressing the problem by enabling the spare wheel to be lowered with an external system, changed the winder on the MY2015 model from a 22mm nut to a boss with a hole.


I had to modify a 3/4 socket to engage the boss and not come off, in order to use the 1/4" extension drive solution. The plastic hinge covers on the 3rd row seats still had to be removed. The snug holes in both the rubber dust cover over the winder and in the rubber cargo area mat are small improvements to the previous design, and by using a plastic valve cap to seal the hole in the mat I hope there will be no issues with dust or water ingress from above or below.


The photo collage illustrates the modified solution for the MY2015 Discovery. I hope other Disco3/4 owners make this modification before the long arm of Murphy's law taps you on the shoulder!


Neil

Sorry, I don't seem able to insert the actual photo.

[eddomak]

Neil,

We were just replacing a tyre on the updated D4 during the last Range Rover Club Sand Driving course, and commenting on the new design and how it might mean the old method wasn't as viable. Well done on the solution. The picture looks fantastic and well explained. (There is a thread here (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/rules-guidelines/25511-how-post-photos-forum.html) on how to attach pictures inline).

Here are the photos to save others needing to click:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/795.jpg

[LRD414]

I had to modify a 3/4 socket to engage the boss and not come off, in order to use the 1/4" extension drive solution.

Neil, this is an excellent solution. I have been using a standard 1" socket with only 6 sides. I have found that the flats of the socket are ok to turn the boss but it's a bit loose and I do wonder if the socket will come right off.

I had assumed that slotting and drilling a socket would be very difficult. Did you use a special drill bit? And how did you achieve such a neat slot?

Cheers,
Scott

[Nmritchie]

Thanks for adding my photo, and pointing to the thread on adding photos. I will use that next time.


Thanks also for the encouraging feedback.


The 3/4 socket was a spare that did not have a brand, and I was lucky that it was not too hardened to cut. I found a hacksaw was best to cut the slot. I cut multiple cuts as close together as possible, broke out the remaining pieces and filed the base smooth. I was able to drill the side holes without any problem, ensuring they were as low as possible. The slot had to cut into the centre of the socket a few mm so the bolt would go through the hole in the winder.


All I can suggest is that if the socket is too hard to hacksaw or drill, try another brand. A slightly bigger size should also work. The slot was just wide enough to fit over the winder. I had considered using a cutting disk but was not confident of the accuracy I would achieve.


Regards
Neil

[scarry]

You would think if LR were to change things they would make easier to drop the wheel without unloading the vehicle,but i suppose that would be to much to ask for.

I have the socket on mine and keep an extension bar and ratchet in one of the door pockets.

[LandyAndy]

I havent re-visited this issue since removing the rear chairs.
As in the previous post,my MY14 has the ears cut off the winder so no normal socket can fit.
My idea of a fix was to weld a matching wheel nut to the winder,or weld 2 flat bars to a matching wheel nut then drill thru and bolt to the winder.
I do have a collection of matching wheel nuts from the camper trailer build.
Andrew

[Stuart02]

I don't know if the cargo bay under-floor area of 5 seater discos is similar to the RRS which is filled with a space-wasting polystyrene block (does it have any structural value or can I just pull it out?), but has anyone actually drilled a hole in the compartment cover of one of these to get winder extension access? It seems the only way...

And why hasn't someone made an aftermarket electric winch winder yet?? :D

[sandgroper57]

Would anyone in WA have the a ratchet/winder mechanism laying around for sale? Just stuffed mine up, wound it up without any loading while I got a puncture repaired and now its stuck half way and won't budge.
Just read a few posts on this issue of winding it up without a wheel in...... bugger, to late!!!!!
Cheers

[sandgroper57]

I got prices for a replacement from 3 well known rover parts and repairers in Perth.
$400. $275. $195 all new.
Pays to shop around.
Cheers

[BMKal]

Would anyone in WA have the a ratchet/winder mechanism laying around for sale? Just stuffed mine up, wound it up without any loading while I got a puncture repaired and now its stuck half way and won't budge.
Just read a few posts on this issue of winding it up without a wheel in...... bugger, to late!!!!!
Cheers

Have you tried Steve at Lifestyle 4WD in Morley.

He fits quite a few long range tanks and rear wheel carriers, and removes the OEM winch as part of the process. Not sure what he does with them once removed (they are not returned to the vehicle's owner unless specifically requested). ;)

If Steve doesn't have one, maybe also try any other businesses in Perth who supply & fit long range tanks.

[sandgroper57]

Thanks but already committed to the $195 unit.


Cheers

[Oztourer]

I don't know if the cargo bay under-floor area of 5 seater discos is similar to the RRS which is filled with a space-wasting polystyrene block (does it have any structural value or can I just pull it out?), but has anyone actually drilled a hole in the compartment cover of one of these to get winder extension access? It seems the only way...

And why hasn't someone made an aftermarket electric winch winder yet?? :D

I've been looking into motorising mine using a 12v hub motor like the ones used on bikes or mobility carts. Haven't found anything suitable yet but if I do I'll post something.

[Stuart02]

I've been looking into motorising mine using a 12v hub motor like the ones used on bikes or mobility carts. Haven't found anything suitable yet but if I do I'll post something.

I'll buy one!!!

[Jimlr]

There a "winder-o-matic" product available in the UK, which brings the winder nut back towards the tailgate, so you can access it from between the seats. Not electric.
Winder-O-Matic Discovery 3/4 (http://hr-parts.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=59)
I recently had a look at having something like this commissioned locally, with a view to having it available through the forum - basically two sprockets and a chain in a custom plastic box - development costs for a small run were prohibitive though.

[rufusking]

From memory I think it was Ritters that have a similar product. Basically it's a couple of small bike sprockets and a it of bike chain inside.

[Oztourer]

I'll buy one!!!

The trick is to find a geared motor small enough and more importantly cheap enough:D

[Stuart02]

The trick is to find a geared motor small enough and more importantly cheap enough:D

Run something off a compressor???

[Oztourer]

Run something off a compressor???

Nice thought. Didn't think of that. Will start new search!

[Ben_Vapid]

There a "winder-o-matic" product available in the UK, which brings the winder nut back towards the tailgate, so you can access it from between the seats. Not electric.
Winder-O-Matic Discovery 3/4 (http://hr-parts.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=59)
I recently had a look at having something like this commissioned locally, with a view to having it available through the forum - basically two sprockets and a chain in a custom plastic box - development costs for a small run were prohibitive though.

I'd be interested in that. I've just fitted rear drawers so i'm looking for an elegant fix. I've got an MY13 and the socket fix doesn't seem to work for me, seems they've removed any edge off the winder so there's not really anything to grab onto.

[Ben_Vapid]

The trick is to find a geared motor small enough and more importantly cheap enough:D

Has anyone tried a low speed cordless drill?

[Oztourer]

Has anyone tried a low speed cordless drill?

That would work fine instead of a socket driver but I'm looking to have an in-built drive that does not protrude above the floor of the cargo space. Others have mentioned flex drives which is still an option as I'm not having any luck sourcing a low profile motor of any kind :(.

[kiwirich]

I remember seeing one on the Disco3 site that was made with a Window Winder motor.
It was Low profile, geared down and worked well .....

Of course now I can't find it to save myself

Richard

[kiwirich]

And of course now I found it ....

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - [For Sale] Electric spare wheel winch (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic119759.html)

It looks like the hot plan

Richard

[Oztourer]

And of course now I found it ....

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - [For Sale] Electric spare wheel winch (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic119759.html)

It looks like the hot plan

Richard

Certainly does! This was what I was hoping to come up with. I was thinking about window motors however they tended to be quite expensive (new). Might be more reasonable from an Auto Dismantler

[cjc_td5]

And of course now I found it ....

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - [For Sale] Electric spare wheel winch (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic119759.html)

It looks like the hot plan

Richard

Now THAT is a great idea. I have a D1 in the shed with twin sunroofs that I am going to part out. Looks like I might be pulling the roof lining and having a look soon to see if the motors might be suitable?

Thanks
Chris

[LRD414]

I have revisited this and fabricated Mark II thanks to a mate with a lathe.

We have done this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/793.jpg

It is made from 1" stainless round bar with a slot cut into it.
The slot required a slight taper to suit the eye and the bolt is an M8 cut down to suit.
One side is ground flat for the spring washer and the other side is tapped thread instead of a nut.

Machined up a plastic bush to go in the eye to keep it from rattling:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/794.jpg

For the top, a recess was machined for a socket to be press-fit. It is a tight interference fit that was pressed using the vice.
Tested with a long breaker bar to ensure that it wouldn't spin.

Looks like this in place without cover on:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/1053.jpg


Can't take too much credit, it was inspired by one earlier in this thread, described here:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/eddomak-albums-d4+spare+wheel+winder+%28new+version%29-picture5306-my15-wheel-winder.jpg


Cheers,
Scott

[LandyAndy]

I think I will weld a wheel nut onto the winder.I have quite a few the same size as a D4.I was putting it off hoping some coins would fall out of the sky for a long range tank.
Andrew

[veebs]

So to resurrect an old thread - did anyone here actually manage the electric solution mentioned? I changed a tyre the other week, with not a whole lot in the boot, and it was still a total PITA to access the winder...

I did like the solution on the Disco3 site using a sunroof motor!

[Disco-tastic]

AFAIK the only one to have done it and made it public was that guy on the disco UK site.

Unfortunately I havent the time to muck around with all of it, as it would be a fun little project.

[cjc_td5]

I acquired a sunroof motor to have a go at this but ended up building a chain winch accessable from under the vehicle. See my posts in my "Introducing Lance" thread. I can provide a link when I get home later today.

[veebs]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/204873-introducing-lance-8.html#post2657773

Looks awesome Chris :)

[ATH]

I emailed one of the suppliers of drawers etc. whose products have been shown here and asked what they'd done to access the winder when their product is installed. I didn't get an answer so guess who won't be getting any money sent their way.
AlanH.

[Rextheute]

I'm looking at the front runner drawer set - to suit a d3/4 but to fit my sport .
They supply a long bar a attachment .
The drawers have an access port for the winder , you have to cut an extra slot in the boot tho .

the PDF for instructions is avail on their site

[Stuart02]

I'm looking at the front runner drawer set - to suit a d3/4 but to fit my sport .
They supply a long bar a attachment .
The drawers have an access port for the winder , you have to cut an extra slot in the boot tho .

the PDF for instructions is avail on their site
Have you talked to Drifta at all? They're pretty happy to customise, and they're also doing a sliding fridge-drawer set up which I thought could be great in the Sport where room is limited - and if you want a permanent fridge in the car of course! (And also if the fridge leaves the winder clear)

[ATH]

I've decided to build my own as I did for our Prado some years ago and they lasted through all the bumps and lumps we travelled over. To overcome the prob. of accessing the winder until I get an RWC I shortened the bottom shelf by about 60mm and took the plastic covers off the 3rd row seats where they swivel. Then fashioned a cunning hook device from a coat hanger to pull the rubber cover off the winder hole.
Then cut about 5mm of the hook on the jack tool at the end of the bend, filed a small chamfer on it and made sure the hole in the winder was facing the back of the vehicle.
Now with the aid of a torch I can access the winder and use the jack handle to lower the wheel.
It ain't fancy but it it's cheap...... [bigsmile]
AlanH.

[scomac]

124451
124452
I just have to take a drawer out and fit a 1/4' drive ratchet with short extension, works a treat!

[shamirj]

in the end pretty simple, removed drawers, got new 22mm socket in 3/8 (i think) from supercheap $1 each so grabbed two (one as a spare), had the extension and ratchet, no reducer needed which was a bonus, 3/8 fits between the gap of the seats with the black plastic seat side covers removed and a tight fit. clearance for my application is great as the drawers sit high enough for clearance. don't have to remove drawers to unwind or upwind. may think of something else to secure the extension rod in its place secured to underside of drawers for extra protection. now for a replacement jack...

[ATH]

I've got mobs of various size sockets but no way can I get one to actually fit and hold that post the jack hook goes into. Sometimes I say '"Bloody Land Rovers" then I buy another one....
AlanH

[AndrewM]

I've got mobs of various size sockets but no way can I get one to actually fit and hold that post the jack hook goes into. Sometimes I say '"Bloody Land Rovers" then I buy another one....
AlanH

My MY16 D4 uses the jack handle through the top of the winch so there is no hex head to use. This is a fool of a development by Work Experience Kid at LR, and especially useless if you have drawers fitted as the handle is way too long to use.

So similar to Scott's Mk1 version, I just cut a tapered slot in a rusty old 3/4" socket with a hacksaw so the socket sits snugly over the winder lug. Then I put a 6mm bolt through the side of the socket, sleeving the hole in the winder lug that takes the jack handle with some retic hose and now I just use a 1/2" speed drive. The profile of the socket is low enough for the rubber cover to go on, so it is still dust proof. The size of the socket is not all that important or whether it is 1/2", 3/8" or even 1/4", just take care to make the tapered slot a nice firm fit and tighten the locking bolt.

Andrew

[ATH]

Thnx. Andrew. I've been wondering how the hell anyone can get a socket to fit on the stupid bloody spigot thing and guessed it was just another design project for LR apprentices......
I've yet to have to use what I've done but I reckon it'll go OK.
AlanH.

[DI5CO]

Do you have pics Andrew?

[AndrewM]

Do you have pics Andrew?

Sorry but no [bigsad]and I'm overseas until end July[bigsmile1]. I'll do it then if I remember when I get back.[bigwhistle]
Andrew

[jliquorish]

Hi Guys,

Just an update and a renewal of thread for anyone searching.

I have just purchased a RAW jack from Trekoverland in the UK.

RAW Jack - Land Rover Discovery 3 & 4 Spare Wheel Removal Tool - RAWJK – Trek Overland Ltd (https://www.trekoverland.com/products/raw-jack-land-rover-discovery-3-4-spare-wheel-removal-tool-rawjk01)

It has a 22mm socket already cut for the later D4's that dont have the nut. It was just a case of trimming the dust boot, putting the socket over the loop and giving it a light hammer with a plastic/rubber hammer replacing the boot and placing the rectangular mechanism over the socket with it fitting snugly against the rear wall of the cargo bay under the plastic trim of the tail door drop down panel.

Now the 22mm nut is right at the back in the opening between the seats and easily accessible with a normal 22mm socket on a short extension with a ratchet now kept in the car for the purpose. It still means you have to keep a vey small space available to wind down wheel but it is way easier than the existing arrangement and doesnt mean fiddling with the previously mention extension.

Cheers
John

[dirvine]

I have been looking at this sort of modification given I have 265/65/18 tyres and the spare is a tight fit. But that would equate to AU$200. Bit expensive but I guess neater finish. Think I will follow the slotted 22mm Socket with a locating bolt drilled through and extension rod. That should only cost $10 from a Sunday market stall.

[ATH]

I gave up on this and fitted a Rijidij RWC instead. Now I'll remove the spare wheel protector and that's it.
AlanH.

[Mog60]

I gave up on this and fitted a Rijidij RWC instead. Now I'll remove the spare wheel protector and that's it.
AlanH.

Hi Alan, I am assuming you are talking about the stiff protective plastic strip that runs around the front of the tyre and just behind the exhausts protecting the spare tyre from stone damage etc. Cheeky of me I know, but I have 2014 LR4 and my spare wheel protector has taken quite a beating, so if you are chucking yours out and it is in good shape, I would love to take it off your hands if you are amenable [bigsmile1] I am in Perth, so I could come and pick it up from you if you are happy to give it a new home.

Peter

[ATH]

Haven't taken it off yet Mog60 but yes you can have it for a small monetary consideration [bigsmile1] .......I'll let you know (probably next week as I'm out today) when it's off.
AlanH.

[Mog60]

Thanks Alan. Definitely no rush at all for it from my perspective . PM me when you are ready.

Peter

[Nicky]

The "winder-o-matic" a device available in the UK, puts a winder nut towards the tailgate, access from between 3rd row seats when down or up. Works really well.
Winder-O-Matic Discovery 3/4 - two sprockets connected by chain drive in a custom box

[veebs]

If someone can come up with a commercial version of this, I'd bet there was a market for it

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - [For Sale] Electric spare wheel winch (https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic119759.html)

[cjc_td5]

I replaced my winch with a chain winch accessible from under the vehicle. Its in my build thread.

[Nmritchie]

I experienced a flat tyre on my 2014 Discovery SDV6 SE before I appreciated the need for the modifications documented so well in this topic. Murphy arranged a remote Tasmanian gravel road, steep hill and hairpin bend, towing a camper trailer and with the Disco luggage area full with fridge and other gear for me to try lowering the spare wheel. I was just glad there was no traffic, rain or mud!


My first project on returning home was to ensure that experience is never repeated, so I am really grateful for the solution on this forum. My problem was that Land Rover, instead of addressing the problem by enabling the spare wheel to be lowered with an external system, changed the winder on the MY2015 model from a 22mm nut to a boss with a hole.


I had to modify a 3/4 socket to engage the boss and not come off, in order to use the 1/4" extension drive solution. The plastic hinge covers on the 3rd row seats still had to be removed. The snug holes in both the rubber dust cover over the winder and in the rubber cargo area mat are small improvements to the previous design, and by using a plastic valve cap to seal the hole in the mat I hope there will be no issues with dust or water ingress from above or below.


The photo collage illustrates the modified solution for the MY2015 Discovery. I hope other Disco3/4 owners make this modification before the long arm of Murphy's law taps you on the shoulder!


Neil

As the photo had disappeared, it is reproduced below.


171080