flat battery advice please

[stray dingo]

Twice today the car has told me I have a low battery, and naturally the car wouldn't start. I've also been working on the electrics for the last two weekends, so would seek anyone's advice as to a possible cause please;

Last weekend - installed the traxide second battery kit with anderson plug and two rear power sockets. Everything seems ok - both power sockets tested ok, but I haven't tested the anderson yet.

Today I installed dvd headrests which gain power only from a 12v poser socket plug. I have not hardwired them. Although the power socket in the back of the centre console seems to be powered only when ignition is on, they were plugged in most of the day.

I also installed a UHF which is taking power from the console cooler plug under the cup holders. Again it seems to be active only when the ignition is on.

Whilst I worked today, I had the radio on (except when actually plugging anything in). After an hour or so the entertainment unit screen warned it would turn off in three minutes due to low battery. This occurred twice, both times the car wouldn't start straightaway. I toggled the switch on the Traxide unit allowing to jump start, and it started fine both times. The first time I went out to get a few bits and pieces. and after each stop started fine again.

Any suggestions?
Can the entertainment unit alone drain the cranking battery that quick?
Could something else I've done have affected something?

Thanks
Andrew

[Drafrete]

Hi,

I think that the entertainment system can drain the battery that fast. If it is a D4 and you have the smart key, was it in the cabin while you were working? Because if so, then the car seems to sit with the "ignition" on even though it is not started. I think all the computers and ECU stay up and running and together they drain the battery pretty quickly.

Just my observations based on my D4..

[CSBrisie]

I didn't know there was a switch on the Traxide unit - is that only on the new version?

[stray dingo]

Thanks I'll have to watch it then - I often work with the radio on (well...used to :))

Stornoway, Traxide had an option for for the controller/isolator which allows both batteries to share power when required (winching/flat cranking battery). Glad I spent the extra now!

[Glynhouse]

For what it is worth ignore the UHF, I have been running sets in all my vehicles (mainly vans all with Z70 batteries) since it became available in Aust. They were always hard wired and were permanently on 24/7 7 days a week.
Never had a problem with any batteries, if the vehicle went out of service for a week or so I would turn it off but for a few days did not worry just left it on, started with FM320's went to GME and Uniden treated them all the same.

DD

[drivesafe]

Hi Andrew and using the sound system while working on an RR, RRS, D3 or D4 is a NO-NO if the motor is not running.

Even with the volume down low, the sound system is not the only device being powered while the sound system is on.

In worst case, you can be pulling as much as 30 amps and no battery can tolerate that for long.

By the way, and I know you probably don’t need any excuse but you need to take you wheels for a good drive.

An hour at least, to get a good charge into your cranking battery and to fully charge your Optima.

NOTE, once you have had your drive, and before you turn the motor off, make sure the switch on your In-Cab module is switched away from the LED.

This puts the isolator in SHARED Mode and while the motor is off, will allow your Optima to back discharge into your cranking battery and help to charge it a bit more, after each drive.

[stray dingo]

thanks Tim
went for a drive yesterday after posting (and today) and all good again.

I've got to wonder though, if the radio has such a huge draw, why they even allow it to switch on without the engine running......??????

[gghaggis]

thanks Tim
went for a drive yesterday after posting (and today) and all good again.

I've got to wonder though, if the radio has such a huge draw, why they even allow it to switch on without the engine running......??????

I imagine a lot more people would complain if they couldn't have the radio on for a few minutes? It will limit itself to low-power mode when on too long - as long as you heed that and switch off, there should still be adequate power to start. Mine always has.

Cheers,

Gordon

[stray dingo]

I can appreciate that, but at the same time can many times when people would prefer it playable for a length of time. (although it would keep the caravan parks a lot quieter :))

In my case, I was working in the garage, not looking at the screen to heed the warning. The first time it shut itself off, but the battery was still drained by then. However, when trying to start the car, the message came up to turn off the radio (which I couldn't cos the power would immediately die). The second time, I did see the message appear, turned off the radio, and the car still didn't start.

I can't see why turning on a radio with out the ignition on should start so many systems that the power drain is so high.

[101RRS]

I can't see why turning on a radio with out the ignition on should start so many systems that the power drain is so high.

Because there is the right way to do things, the wrong way to do things and the Landrover way of doing things - make it more complicated than it needs to be and put in sub standard systems to support it.

Try replacing the standard radio with a better aftermarket one and see how far you get.

Garry

[Robocop]

NOTE, once you have had your drive, and before you turn the motor off, make sure the switch on your In-Cab module is switched away from the LED.

This puts the isolator in SHARED Mode and while the motor is off, will allow your Optima to back discharge into your cranking battery and help to charge it a bit more, after each drive.

Hi drivesafe

Is the in-cab module a new addition to the kit? I've had my Traxside kit in for maybe 6-8 months & only have the module under the bonnet..

Cheers Rob

[drivesafe]

Hi Rob and it depends on which isolator you have.

The SC80 is still the standard isolator it always has been but I have been supplying the new USI-160 isolator for about 18 months now and it is still a case of which isolator you get for what operations you are going to use it for.

The SC80 is still the best isolator for fit-n-forget set ups.

The USI-160 is intended for vehicles where electric winch operations are going to be carried out.

[Robocop]

Fit & forget is what I must have.. I've managed to run the cranking battery flat while running the stereo for hours while working on the car. Tried to jump start using the 2nd battery & it didn't work. Every so often, especially if I've been doing a lot if short trips around town I'll put my charger on the cranking battery overnight..

Rob