lifted springs for series landrover?

[army2a]

hey guys, does anyone on here know of anyone who does lifted springs for series landys? ive tried dobinson and kings and neither are interested in doing a set, or is there any springs from another vehicle that would fit? any help would be great

[langy]

If you've got the cash - the old TI Console company in the Netherlands (now a different name) make parabolics.
Heystee Automotive BV (http://www.heystee-automotive.com/)

or

get a set of longer brake lines and go spring-over-axle.

[isuzurover]

The easiest and cheapest way is to get your existing springs reset for more camber - Bayside Springs can do it.

However - bear in mind that the more lift/camber you have in your springs, the less flex you will have.

[Slunnie]

hey guys, does anyone on here know of anyone who does lifted springs for series landys? ive tried dobinson and kings and neither are interested in doing a set, or is there any springs from another vehicle that would fit? any help would be great
I thought King Springs had a part number for them. Likewise they will do customs if need be.

[army2a]

thanks guys for your help, kings didnt seem interested and reckon a custom set would be around $1100 a pair!!

[Lotz-A-Landies]

You can also get Rocky-Mountain Parabolics from Canada and I thought FWD in Brisbane were the agents.

[landrover dave]

Roverparts+ do Britpart parabolics. Modern Motors do Rocky Mountain.
Try Dobinsons in Rockhampton too. Kings tend to only be interested in run of the mill stuff


thanks guys for your help, kings didnt seem interested and reckon a custom set would be around $1100 a pair!!

[Slunnie]

What about a reset?

[landrover dave]

Dont even think about a cold reset! Spring steel is heat treated and forged. This aligns the molecules in a certain way. Flexing the spring over time, causes those molecules to change their pattern. Resetting will only last a short time and will possibly break a leaf. If they are to be reset they need to be heat treated again. I know its not a very accurate description of how it all works but metallurgy is very complicated! Its probably cheaper to buy new springs.



What about a reset?

[Slunnie]

Dont even think about a cold reset! Spring steel is heat treated and forged. This aligns the molecules in a certain way. Flexing the spring over time, causes those molecules to change their pattern. Resetting will only last a short time and will possibly break a leaf. If they are to be reset they need to be heat treated again. I know its not a very accurate description of how it all works but metallurgy is very complicated! Its probably cheaper to buy new springs.
I do understand the metallury. :)

A reset doesn't have to be done cold... do people even do them cold at all? Anyway, something still worth looking at and cheaper than new leaves.

[landrover dave]

I think from memory a pair of parabolics from Roverparts was around $400. Check their website they have prices. Also the Britpart springs use std bushes!

[jakeslouw]

I second the idea of spring over axle.

[isuzurover]

Dont even think about a cold reset! Spring steel is heat treated and forged. This aligns the molecules in a certain way. Flexing the spring over time, causes those molecules to change their pattern. Resetting will only last a short time and will possibly break a leaf. If they are to be reset they need to be heat treated again. I know its not a very accurate description of how it all works but metallurgy is very complicated! Its probably cheaper to buy new springs.

Nothing wrong with a cold reset as long as the steel is tempered (heat treated) afterwards to relieve stresses. A cold reset that is not tempered will often sag quickly.

SOA is illegal in QLD (still) AFAIK.

[landrover dave]

A cold reset is just that cold! No heat treating!


Nothing wrong with a cold reset as long as the steel is tempered (heat treated) afterwards to relieve stresses. A cold reset that is not tempered will often sag quickly.

SOA is illegal in QLD (still) AFAIK.

[Series3 GT]

What about extended shackles, like military ones. Can you get shackles made up.

[Timj]

What about extended shackles, like military ones. Can you get shackles made up.

When the extended shackles were used on the military ones they were also in concert with extended spring hangers at the other end of the spring, extended bump stops, relocated shock absorber mounts and longer extension shocks. So if you just use the extended shackles (which a lot of people do) you will change the angle of the diff to the transfer case and may need to fit wedges above the spring to bring it back to what it should be. You may also need to think about extending the bump stops and shocks since it can drop further. Also on the military chassis they often had a cutout of the crossmember at the front of the gearbox to allow better propshaft clearance on drop.

Cheers,

TimJ.

[isuzurover]

What about extended shackles, like military ones. Can you get shackles made up.

You can buy mil shackle plates easily and cheaply. Many SWB owners fit them to the rear, however on the front they may cause the front prop to bind.

Some states say that fitting extended shackles as a means of lifting a vehicle is not permitted. If allowed in WA you would probably need mod approval...

[Series3 GT]

You can buy mil shackle plates easily and cheaply. Many SWB owners fit them to the rear, however on the front they may cause the front prop to bind.

Some states say that fitting extended shackles as a means of lifting a vehicle is not permitted. If allowed in WA you would probably need mod approval...
I wouldn't mind lifting my IIA 109 but sounds like extended shackles are a bit fidlly.

[isuzurover]

I wouldn't mind lifting my IIA 109 but sounds like extended shackles are a bit fidlly.

9 times out of 10 they work fine, and don't take long to fit.

[Series3 GT]

Well I might look at fitting some, the springs have sagged down a fair bit so an inch of lift will probably be only a bit over standard. Has anyone got some or a design they've used.

[isuzurover]

Well I might look at fitting some, the springs have sagged down a fair bit so an inch of lift will probably be only a bit over standard. Has anyone got some or a design they've used.

They are just flat steel plates, however the inner plates are threaded. Last I needed to replace some, they cost $7 each from a LR place (Maybe FWD in Brisbane).

[Ozdunc]

Aha! This ties in nicely with what I've been doing.
I've got a 2a SWB with the front springs sagging about 30mm from spec.
So rather than trying to go for a reset (as the spring still has some curve) I thought I'd make some shackles and do it cheap:wasntme:.
Since the sag was 30mm over half the length of the spring, a 60mm extention should do the do. Made the shackles easily out of 10mm plate and some 21.3x 3.2mm pipe. Pipe needs running though with a 9/16" bit as the seam makes it a bit tight.

Fitting the shackles was a bit more involved than I thought as the spring wouldn't droop as far as it needed whilst still attached to the axle even with the shock disconnected, but a long bit of timber and body weight allowed me to fit the shackle.

As soon as it was fitted you could see the pinion angle was way out. I put the jack under the spring so it could take weight, but even then the spring seemed high and the pinion was still out.
I didn't put the wheels back on and allow for fully settling, as I decided to do some calcs and work out what the pinion change would be with a 30mm lift.
What I'd forgotten to take into account is that as the spring sags the arc of the spring changes and the distance between the shackles lengthens, this means that the castor doesn't change too much as the centre of the spring stays relatively flat to the original position. This changes when you pivot around the front shackle pin when using extended shackles.
The spring pivots around the front hanger, so the distance from this to the centre of the axle was used to work out the degree of change when lifting 30mm.
Distance from front hanger to axle = 450mm
Lift = 30mm
To make the maths easier I ignored the axle path and assumed it straight, and made the isoceles triangle into 2 right angled triangles with a side of 15mm.

So using Pythagorus sin(deg)=Oppo/Hypot; deg = sin-1(15/450)
deg=1.9deg
total degree change for 30mm lift =1.9x2 = 3.8deg

This is a major change when it comes to castor and operation of U-joints, so you'll definitely need castor plates to convert back to spec.
Length of axle plate where it contacts the spring = 100mm
Need to roll the axle 3.8deg.
this means the back of the axle need to be lifted: sin(3.8)x100 = 6.6mm.

Measuring my U bolts I don't have 7mm of extra thread to accommodate the necessary wedge.

So my cheap fix is starting to look a bit more involved ( and expensive).
A set of wedges retails for between $50 and $80, and then U-bolts are ~$50 assuming you can get the right shape and length.
So you're looking at $150 to bodge a fix (assuming you build your own shackles) or $350 for a new set of parabolics.

It might be as well to go for the parrotbollox, but then do you need longer shocks, extended brake lines...