Lt230se transfer box differential thrust washer inspection.

[alien]

After the centre diff thrust washers where mentioned on various threads when doing the oil leaks I thought I best look for signs.
After finding a few brass peices behind the 2 cover plates I decided to inspect the centre diff while I have the trasfer box out.
48525
*This is what I did, it may not be as done in professional workshops*
These photos where taken after the dissasembly for this thread.

Remove the High/Low cross shaft housing.
48523
Remove the diff lock switch and lock the diff assembly.
Undo the bolts holding the output housing to the main housing.
48522
Slide the housing off carefully.
48527
I undid the bolts for the diff at this point with an open ended spanner.
As I found 2 missing washers I striped out the High/Low shaft for inspection.

Lossen the detent grub screw for the high low selector shaft.
Idealy remove the screw, spring and ball.
I didn't at this point, I used a small allen key after the shaft was out to push them from the inside.
48530

Continued next post...

[alien]

Slide the diff assembly out with the High/Low shaft attached.
48539
Undo the diff bolts after marking the housing for reassembly purposes.
Split and remove the retaining ring.
Note the position of the cross shaft and planet gears and remove.
48541
Mine after inspection had 2 badly worn washers and 2 missing from the planet gears.
Note the dammage to the housing.
48543 48551
I also removed the 2 sun gears to inspect the thrust washers.
Don't mix them up as they are selectable shims!

Reassembly will be the reverse of the above with locktite used as needed.
Thanks to those who posted elsewhere for the heads up on this inspection.
While some dammage has been done it could be worse.

Sorry for the picture size, hope you get the idea.

[justinc]

good work!!

notice also in the last set of pics there are bits of thrust washer all the way up to the input bearing...:o

not unusual :( i did one last week where there were no thrust washers left at all.


jc

[alien]

good work!!

notice also in the last set of pics there are bits of thrust washer all the way up to the input bearing...:o

not unusual :( i did one last week where there were no thrust washers left at all.


jc
Thanks JC.
It was one of your posts about this that made me look:)
Clean up tommorow and I'll go from there.

[Homestar]

Thanks again for today mate - I think we all learned a lot. Having now pulled mine down I have the spider gear shims to replace on mine, but at least they were all there, although paper thin. The sun gear shims and the intermediate shaft shims are all in good nick, so only that and the intermediate shaft 'O' rings on mine.

Oh, and one other difference is that mine has gaskets on all surfaces, not just silastic, so I'll need a few of those as well.

Cheers - Gav

[Hall]

This I believe is something I need to do to mine. So you find that you need shims. Where do get them from?
Cheers Hall

[wrinklearthur]

I am going have to have a good read of this thread.
Thanks.

[Homestar]

This I believe is something I need to do to mine. So you find that you need shims. Where do get them from?
Cheers Hall

Apparently this is the place to get all this sort of stuff - British Car Components - spares and parts for British cars, Melbourne Victoria, Australia (http://www.britcar.com.au/)

I will be dropping in there this week - I think Alien will be too, I think the shims are only a couple of bucks each.

[Homestar]

Just had another thought after cleaning some parts on the TC today. As my box is put together with gaskets, and not just a bead of silastic, is there anything I need to be aware of as far as the centre diff bearing pre load goes? The gasket in effect will alter the pre load I would think - for any expert out there that has done this - am I on the right track here? Is it just a mattter of using a new gasket and torquing everything up to the correct spec, or do I have to go through all the trouble of measuring everything once assembled to check to see if I have this right?

Also, I have found that the input shaft is quite tight to turn - what should I be looking for here? Again, the end plate at the non drive end of the input shaft uses gaskets - is this likely to upset the preload? - the spec for this is fairly tight - 0.000 to 0.003 inches, so not much wiggle room so to speak. Just wanted to check before I pull this apart.

Hope that makes sense - Gav

[alien]

What number box is yours Bacicat2000? Lt230???
Yours is an earlier box as we spoke about(just so others are on the same page).
Gaskets not salastic, different intermidiate shaft location and method of preloading those bearings.

Have you got any of the old gasket left?
You may be able to check the thickness of both.

I droped my input shaft out today.
The cover is just that, it then has another plate sandwiched to the main housing.
The bearing end float is done with the sandwiched peice on mine via shims behind a pressed in bearing cone.
I've done a clean up and all the bearings I've checked are good.
This means I don't need to do any endfloat adjustments, just a refit.

[Homestar]

What number box is yours Bacicat2000? Lt230???.
Yes, an LT230 - but I'm not sure of any other numbers or designations it may have - it is out of my 86 Rangie. The intermediate shaft is in the same spot, but is supported in a different way - bearings are different, and it has a thrust washer on each side of the gear set, and a shim that sets the end float.



Have you got any of the old gasket left? .
Yes - I'll measure these, and I'll also take a sample in when I get new ones.



I droped my input shaft out today.
The cover is just that, it then has another plate sandwiched to the main housing. .
Just had a look - mine is the same, but I may have to check the preload, and re shim this... not something I wanted to do, but it really does feel tight, so I don't want to risk it.

Cheers - Gav

[Homestar]

Looks like I'm going to learn how to set the input shaft preload.:( As the input shaft was tight, I measured the endfloat - 0.000, which technically is within spec, but there is 0, and then there is 0, and mine is on the tight side of 0:D.

Also, the bearing shells are showing signs of wear, and while it is not really bad, and I have reused worse:angel: - I may as well change both bearings while I am at it.

So off to get some parts ordered tomorrow, and I'll go from there. It's a bit of a pain, because to do this properly it looks like you have to buy a thinner shim than what you start with, assemble everything, measure up the endfloat, then pull it apart, order the correct shim for it, and put it all back together again... The shim goes in behind the rear bearing shell, and at least they have made it easy to get the shell out - there are releifs cast into the housing, so not a huge job.

I'll post the results, but it probably won't be for a couple of weeks - I am away with work all next week, so Ill be stuggling to get it done in time for the Wombat weekend me thinks...:(

Cheers - Gav

[MacMan]

Gav, I'm part way through my LT230 rebuild - been going on so long I can't remember which boxes all the bits are in :o. However, I have some shims here that might be of assistance in the fit/try process. Gimme a call if you're interested. You're actually at the stage where I stalled. LR Australia don't keep any of the shims in stock when I asked them. Makes it a very slow process to get right.

[Homestar]

Well, have ordered all the bits I need - they had some stuff in stock - they just had to order the bearings and the spider gear shims (someone who shall remain unnamed went in yesterday and bought the set he had in stock:D) I was able to buy a whole kit that contains all gaskets, seals, o-rings, etc for the TC, and the prices are very reasonable - about $100 all up for the kit, and the bearings for the input shaft.

The only other thing I will need is the correct shim, which I won't know what size I need until I fit the new bearings.

[MacMan]

Winner!

[Homestar]

Winner!

Thanks - if you can find those shims you have lying about I will probably be ringing you for a lend of them the week after next - I am away all next week and I have plenty on my plate to keep me out of trouble until then.:)

Cheers - Gav

[MacMan]

I'll have a rummage now. Have a couple of other things that might be handy too.

[MacMan]

Found the following:

1 spare set of spider gear shims (doh!).

1 x FRC9928 shim - 3.20mm as shown here (http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/6772/FRC9928-SHIM.html) to be used for measurement of float. This was as close as I could get to the 3.15mm that is supposed to be used to measure up.

I also have the FRC9954 3.85mm shim that came out of the box I intend to finish. There's one that measures 3.78mm currently in my running box but that doesn't directly translate to a Rover part number because it appears to be an in between size.

Have you bought a new crush spacer for the intermediate gearset? Those bearings wear and you might as well replace them and the crush spacer, and if the intermediate shaft is worn you might as well spring for a new one of those at the same time. Pay close attention to the condition of the casing where the o-ring end of the intermediate shaft locates. The alloy frets up and then causes the leak again in quick time, not to mention allows the gear to rock and roll as you go on and off the power.

[alien]

And nice shiney shims they where:D
Now covered in oil and fitted where they belong.
Even got the box bolted in tonight, just got all the bits that bolt onto it to go.

I think your on the right track Gav., do it now and you shouldn't have to worry about for about a decade:p

[Homestar]

Found the following:

1 spare set of spider gear shims (doh!).

1 x FRC9928 shim - 3.20mm as shown here (http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/6772/FRC9928-SHIM.html) to be used for measurement of float. This was as close as I could get to the 3.15mm that is supposed to be used to measure up.

I also have the FRC9954 3.85mm shim that came out of the box I intend to finish. There's one that measures 3.78mm currently in my running box but that doesn't directly translate to a Rover part number because it appears to be an in between size.

Have you bought a new crush spacer for the intermediate gearset? Those bearings wear and you might as well replace them and the crush spacer, and if the intermediate shaft is worn you might as well spring for a new one of those at the same time. Pay close attention to the condition of the casing where the o-ring end of the intermediate shaft locates. The alloy frets up and then causes the leak again in quick time, not to mention allows the gear to rock and roll as you go on and off the power.


Thanks for that - the 3.20mm shim should be just right to measure everything up.

Mine is the early box, and doesn't run the intermediate shaft crush spacer. It runs a larger diameter shaft, with needle bearings, 2 thrust washers, and a shim to set end float. The book says to replace the thrust washers, but I won't for a couple of reasons - 1, mine are in very good nick, and 2, there are none in the country, and by all accounts can be hard to find. The end float I measured before I pulled it apart was within spec,and the shaft and casing have no wear or damage, so the only treatment the intermediate shaft will get is new 'O' rings on each end.:)

Cheers - Gav

[Jode]

What number box is yours Bacicat2000? Lt230???
Yours is an earlier box as we spoke about(just so others are on the same page).
For those who don't know how to identify your TC, here's a quote from Ashcroft's website:

The serial number will be stamped in one of 2 possible places, either on the bottom left of the main casing or on the earlier vehicles right at the bottom of the left hand side face of the main casing obscured by the exhaust pipe in which case you will need a knife (to scrape the muck off) and a mirror. You are looking for Eg. "28D123456E, we are interested in the first two and the last, i.e. we call this a "28E". Please have a look in the LT 230 Technical Section to find a list of Serial numbers / Ratios.

Cheers.

[Homestar]

Just thought I'd post a link to my project in Members rides as I have just posted about setting the end float on the input shaft after renewing the bearings. It's not exactly what the subject of this thread is about, but it fits in with this if you have your TC in bits. Mine is the earlier style box that uses gaskets, whereas the newer boxes don't use the gaskets, just sealant, but everything else is the same.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/1786903-post42.html

Cheers - Gav