Anyone had their harmonic counterweight bush reaplaced?

[pohm66]

The bushes have just about sh#t themselves and the counterweights have dropped.

I understand that the body needs to be removed but need to confirm this as well as if the bush is a separate item or do new weights need to be purchased?

Approx $$s would be handy to...

Thanks....

[discotwinturbo]

What are those ?

I thought that the masculine versions of the D4 that have big nuts hanging down at the back of the D4 being referred to as harmonic balancers.....but I doubt they are the same thing as they will never need replacing. The D4 would make all sorts of squeaks if it lost one or more nuts.

I tried googling this, but nothing came up.

Sounds pretty scary when you start talking about the body coming off....

Brett....

[pohm66]

Thanks... Same thing Brett.

2 blocks are about 15kg that pivot off the chassis. They are actually ' n ' shaped and sit down over the rail. Visible as you say as a pair of nuts however they pivot on rubber bushes which are now cactus.

Because of their shape to lift them out means to lift them UP, hence the body coming off 8-(

I do hear though that the D4 is a lot more friendly to lift than the D3.

LR apparently don't sell the bushes as a separate you have to buy the weights as well $250 @

[BobD]

What are the symptoms that led you to believe that the bushes have gone?

Bob

[Graeme]

Because of their shape to lift them out means to lift them UP, hence the body coming off (
To replace the rear sway bar the body has to be lifted enough to remove the rubber mount forward of the left rear wheel. The task was easily accomplished by removing the rearmost 4 bolts and loosening the others to lessening degrees the closer they were to the front of the vehicle then jacking only the rear of the body. I didn't observe the clearance above the counterweights but suspect they could be removed using the same method. Note that the skirts along the sides have to be removed otherwise the chassis outriggers foul on the skirts and the jacking points are behind them anyway.

[pohm66]

To answer your question Bob the weight is actually touching the lower lip of the plastic number and I can physically lift the weight 10mm +.

It also isn't lined up with its bump stop anymore.

[pohm66]

Looking at the size of the weights Graeme, I'd assume I need about 120mm clearance.

Do you reckon your method would give this clearance?

[Graeme]

120mm might be too much because of the angle the remaining bolts have to endure without lifting the front too. ISTR that the rubber mount that I had to remove only needed 10-15mm to allow it to lift out of its seat.

1 weight touches my D4's plastic bumper and there is plenty of movement in their bushes too so your's may not actually be worn much. Have you checked-out another D3/4?

[pohm66]

Hi Graeme,

Haven't checked any other Ds however when I got the vehicle it never had a metal thud going over bumps.. it now does. Done almost 270,000ks on the clock now.

When I swing the weight manually the top part of the weight hits the chassis rail making the thud.

In the interim I have made the rubber bump stops slightly bigger diameter so the weight only hits in one direction now.

[Graeme]

In case there is still a desire to remove the weights, on the D4 at least the weights are in 2 pieces, bolted together with a single bolt at the top with the bolt head outwards. Hence there's no need to lift the body off the chassis. A single bolt through the centre clamps on the bush.

I corrected the angle of 1 of mine as the weights were too far forwards and much more readily struck the chassis at the top rear if rocked by hand compared with the other set of weights. I don't think they were hitting whilst driving though.

[CaverD3]

You could try to fit a right sized rubber bush in with the worn one?

[jspyle]

I did a search for counterwights on this board and there is an excellent description in the D3/D4/RRS section at http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/71558-rear-bumper-counterweights.html?highlight=counterweights