$3500 for a pair of spotties What The ?????

[400HPONGAS]

While looking through the August 4 X 4 ,seen an add from Hella ,showing Alan Whitings D3. Those spotties are advertised as $3500 WTF !
So spotties @ $3500
so ARB Bar @$2000
So Winch @ $2000
So Bilsteins @$1500
So UHF setup @ $1000
Easy way to spend $10,000,and we havent been past the bullbar
And the goddam ugly RAI .

Anyone know of some reasonable priced spots , and which winches can be fitted to a ARB bar ?

[Summiitt]

Dollar for dollar, I still think you can't go past a set of hella rallye 4000, they are old technology but they are extremely well built, heavy steel construction and give out a fantastic light...hid lights would be nice but I think the Hellas are good value for money, mine are about 6 yrs old and have done 500,000km on some really crap roads, taken kangaroo strikes and are still in good working order, wonder if Alan whiting paid for his lights?!

[Bigbjorn]

If you have room for them, Hella 1503 or 1507 searchlamps are the ultimate long range driving lights.

[Glynhouse]

Interesting that it is still on the market, I considered it when I was looking back in February.
Have not seen the magazine so maybe just an article ?

DD

[oldsalt]

I fitted a "Tigerz 11" 12,000 lb winch to my ARB bar (with plasma rope) for around $800 from memory, haven't used it in anger as yet but I gave it a good trial run on a mates block up near Mansfield and it pulled the D3 no worries - it'll do me :)
cheers

[weeds]

I fitted a "Tigerz 11" 12,000 lb winch to my ARB bar (with plasma rope) for around $800 from memory, haven't used it in anger as yet but I gave it a good trial run on a mates block up near Mansfield and it pulled the D3 no worries - it'll do me :)
cheers


pretty sure richard around the corner from me has this setup as well on his D4

[TerryO]

When my air conditioning compressor failed I asked around re if this was common, the workshop I had it done at said most of the ones they knew of that had failed had a bar, spotties and a winch fitted. Their reasoning was the spotties etc reduced the airflow through the grill causing reduced cooling. They believed the Spotties were the main issue.

It would be interesting to hear if others have heard similar story's.

Cheers,
Terry

[PeterOZ]

I have the Landrover OME spotlighjts on my D3 and they are rubbish, very poor light output. I repalced the globes with uprated ones, fitted a relay that draws direct from the battery and it triggered off the high beam cirecuit. Yes it has the switch on the dash to kill it as per legal requiremnts.

Even with that the light output is very poor. Wonder if there is an aftermarket spot lens etc that can be retrofitted into the LR housing??

[Tombie]

If you have room for them, Hella 1503 or 1507 searchlamps are the ultimate long range driving lights.

Maybe in 1984 :p

And Hella 4000's are rubbish as well, light arse tin, average optics... Not sealed....

Theres are much better products out there...

And I cant even tell you what I'm running - They dont "exist" - yet :D

[ghoti]

Lightforce seem to be a popular after market light and they have a variety of filters available to tune to your requirements. Roo Lights are a cheap knock off of the lightforce units. I have had Roo Lights on my Pajero for 5 years and 190,000 km and couldn't be happier.

[SBD4]

I am quite keen on the Lightforce Striker 170s HIDs:

http://www.lightforce.com/hid/products/hid_170_striker

I think you can get them for about $450 a pair.

this post from Skuilnaam discussing Halogen vs HID made me a bit less keen on HIDs:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/153948-led-light-bar-7.html#post1720711

I didn't like that HIDs lose 20% of their output after a relatively short period of use - according to him. The post is part of a thread discussing the virtues of LED lightbar which is another option.

Not having a bullbar, I'd be interested to know if anyone has done a direct to bumper mounting of lights (non LR) - I know there is a thread on the D3uk site but that is for the D3 and I believe the Landrover driving light mounting brackets are different between the D3 and D4.

Tombie, good to see you back. Your lighting arrangement sounds intriguing - something you are working on?

[StephenC]

When I need extra night vision, I get the wife to crank down the pax window and hang out with the Dolphin Torch.



Sod paying three and a half grand for spotlights.

[PAT303]

When my air conditioning compressor failed I asked around re if this was common, the workshop I had it done at said most of the ones they knew of that had failed had a bar, spotties and a winch fitted. Their reasoning was the spotties etc reduced the airflow through the grill causing reduced cooling. They believed the Spotties were the main issue.

It would be interesting to hear if others have heard similar story's.

Cheers,
Terry

Something I've been saying for the last 10 years ;). Pat

[Piddler]

Maybe in 1984 :p

And Hella 4000's are rubbish as well, light arse tin, average optics... Not sealed....

Theres are much better products out there...

And I cant even tell you what I'm running - They dont "exist" - yet :D

Welcome back Mike
good to here from you hope you are well
cheers

[clubagreenie]

In addition to the lights, I'm currently running the D2 without the grille, and it's gone from running in traffic at around 98deg (or higher when stopped) to around 94 and on the highway would sit on 96.7 at constant 100-110 to 91 even when pushed out to 130.

I'm looking at what options I have for smaller lights or bar. The bar doesn't have the distance output I'd like. But has the profile. I could mount the lights on top of the bar but both don't want to look like a bogan & they sit in your eye-line and also I'm sure it's illegal.

I'll also be modifying the grille by cutting out most of the centre and replacing with some expanded metal mesh. Kind of Saudi style but a fraction of the price. Which also may leave the option of mounting some smaller lights in cups into the mesh itself.

Finally what about getting some hal;ogen based lights and later (or sooner) fitting a HID upgrade kit?

[DeanoH]

Dollar for dollar, I still think you can't go past a set of hella rallye 4000, they are old technology but they are extremely well built, heavy steel construction and give out a fantastic light...hid lights would be nice but I think the Hellas are good value for money, mine are about 6 yrs old and have done 500,000km on some really crap roads, taken kangaroo strikes and are still in good working order, wonder if Alan whiting paid for his lights?!

HELLA RALLYE 4000 METAL FF 4WD DRIVING LIGHTS W/ COVERS | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HELLA-RALLYE-4000-METAL-FF-4WD-DRIVING-LIGHTS-W-COVERS-/300485844222?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45f65a1cfe)

Perhaps they're worth a bit more than you thought. ?

Deano :)

[clubagreenie]

Pity they're not 4000's

[Summiitt]

Jeepers! Hope they got a decimal point in the wrong spot!:eek:
didn't pay anything close to that for mine!

[Bigbjorn]

Maybe in 1984 :p

And Hella 4000's are rubbish as well, light arse tin, average optics... Not sealed....

Theres are much better products out there...

And I cant even tell you what I'm running - They dont "exist" - yet :D

Unless you have found a way to repeal the laws of physics, these are far and away the best long range driving lamps available. Remember your Year Twelve Science text books? The maximum output from a light source is achieved by mounting the source at the focal point of a parabolic reflector. The output from a light source increases as the diameter of the reflector is increased.

They are industrial lamps, not automotive and thus have full parabolic reflectors as does the Bosch SL5. They are 250mm and 220 mm diameter. I do not know of any automotive lamps that have full parabolic reflectors or are this diameter. They are normally truncated to limit the distance they protrude from the front of the car.

Check the Hella catalogue for the diagrams of reach and spread.

4000 pencil beam, one lane spread and <700 metres reach.
4000 spread beam, two lane spread at 200 metres and <500 metres reach.
1503 searchlamp, six lanes spread at 300 metres and almost 800 metres reach.

The ideal setup is to have two of them mounted slightly cross-eyed to give an around the corner effect near maximum range. I use 12v 150 watt QH bulbs but there is nothing stopping you fitting an HID conversion if you have a low output alternator.

[d@rk51d3]

While looking through the August 4 X 4 ,seen an add from Hella ,showing Alan Whitings D3. Those spotties are advertised as $3500 WTF !
So spotties @ $3500
so ARB Bar @$2000
So Winch @ $2000
So Bilsteins @$1500
So UHF setup @ $1000
Easy way to spend $10,000,and we havent been past the bullbar
And the goddam ugly RAI .

Anyone know of some reasonable priced spots , and which winches can be fitted to a ARB bar ?

They weren't attached to a $46,000 RRC, were they?

:D:D:D

[discotwinturbo]

Nope....a D3.

Brett....

[Tote]

I'm running an ALDI winch and have used it in anger a few times with good results. I went from Hella Rallye 2000 lights to Lightforce XGT with halogen bulbs that I got second hand off a Jeep forum (those blokes seem to change their accessories much more frequently than Land Rover owners )
The XGTs are better than the (10 year old ) Rallye 2000s were but not by a staggering degree.
Regards,
Tote

[400HPONGAS]

Now these were the ones I was referring to , LED SPOTLIGHT
the add is in the latest Overlander as well, are we sure we are referring to the same lights,Mr Hjelm as there looks like more than 1 parabolic reflector in there !
HELLA RALLYE 4000 LUMINATOR LED SPOTLIGHT METAL 4WD LAMPS | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HELLA-RALLYE-4000-LUMINATOR-LED-SPOTLIGHT-METAL-4WD-LAMPS-/120871297377?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c247da161)

[NomadicD3]

Hi All,
I'd have to agree with summit. Ive had the rallye 4000's since about 96 and converted them to HID's a few years ago and , like simmit have had them submerged, bashed and vibrated alot and they've never even needed a new bulb yet.
TerryO, I got the same story from the AC tech when I had to replace and over haul my AC system. He claimed that the 4000's reduced airflow by up to 25%. Not sure if there was any science in that number or just 30 yrs experience with AC units.

[Tombie]

Unless you have found a way to repeal the laws of physics, these are far and away the best long range driving lamps available. Remember your Year Twelve Science text books? The maximum output from a light source is achieved by mounting the source at the focal point of a parabolic reflector. The output from a light source increases as the diameter of the reflector is increased.

They are industrial lamps, not automotive and thus have full parabolic reflectors as does the Bosch SL5. They are 250mm and 220 mm diameter. I do not know of any automotive lamps that have full parabolic reflectors or are this diameter. They are normally truncated to limit the distance they protrude from the front of the car.

Check the Hella catalogue for the diagrams of reach and spread.

4000 pencil beam, one lane spread and <700 metres reach.
4000 spread beam, two lane spread at 200 metres and <500 metres reach.
1503 searchlamp, six lanes spread at 300 metres and almost 800 metres reach.

The ideal setup is to have two of them mounted slightly cross-eyed to give an around the corner effect near maximum range. I use 12v 150 watt QH bulbs but there is nothing stopping you fitting an HID conversion if you have a low output alternator.

Define best...

Best "hot spot dot" at their focal point?
Best construction / mount / materials?
Best "usable" beam?
Best value for money?
Best bulb output?

150w means very little without the lumen/watt data... :cool:

There are other true Parabolic lights on the market and when it comes to light design for maximum performance there are more ways than "parabola and focal point".

[superquag]

Cibie Super Oscars ? - If they're still in production...

[clubagreenie]

Oscars/super oscars, most all cibies still in production.

[Tombie]

Unless you have found a way to repeal the laws of physics, these are far and away the best long range driving lamps available. Remember your Year Twelve Science text books? The maximum output from a light source is achieved by mounting the source at the focal point of a parabolic reflector. The output from a light source increases as the diameter of the reflector is increased.

Agree, providing all other things being equal, however.

The output of a light is relative to the focal point, depth of the reflector and the light source itself. EG: a large diameter reflector with x mm focal length can have the same captive angle of total light as a smaller reflector with a shorter focal point therefore the same amount of light projected forward.

The light source is relative also, as with different styles of halogen filaments and hid arc lengths there is only a very small portion of the light source at the true focal point. So the rest of the light source forward, backwards and sideways of this theoretical point is actually out of focus which is not projected directly ahead. If it did, the light would look like a laser, not a diverging beam. Therefore a halogen filament will have at least part of its filament passing through the focal point, provided it is mounted centrally. Where as none of a HID arc mounted in a central horizontal position in the reflector is actually at the true focal position because the arc burns in a vertical curve between the arc terminals thereby passing over the top of the theoretical focal point. Therefore the configuration of the light source and the efficacy of the lamp will make a huge difference to output.

Halogen lamps vary from approx 17 lumens per watt to about 40 lumens per watt and HIDs also vary greatly due to manufacturing quality, gas mix, Kelvin and wiring design so it is not as simple as it first appears to make a generalisation about one parameter being all that matters to a lights output.



They are industrial lamps, not automotive and thus have full parabolic reflectors as does the Bosch SL5. They are 250mm and 220 mm diameter. I do not know of any automotive lamps that have full parabolic reflectors or are this diameter. They are normally truncated to limit the distance they protrude from the front of the car.

Most Auto headlights have some if not all parabolic portions in them and always have been. These headlamps have generally used facetted glass lens to then redirect the light where required.

All driving lights of a “spot” configuration use a parabolic reflector or you would not get a spot. This includes the old style OEM Lucas sealed beams with clear glass lens (Jaguar and others).

In recent times the auto industry has moved on some auto models to “freeform” reflectors to change the direction of some of the light beam instead of using facetted lenses. The other change is to projector type lens to reduce bonnet height, therefore better vehicle aero dynamics.

It is worth noting also that in the absolute sense it would be difficult to find a true parabolic reflector in lighting due to the reflectors being made of materials that have inherent shrinkages and stresses induced during processing (EG: Plastic, spun alloy, castings etc) that once removed the finished product changes to something not exactly the same as the forming tools which may be in themselves perfect parobolas. But they are generally close enough for the purpose.




Check the Hella catalogue for the diagrams of reach and spread.

4000 pencil beam, one lane spread and <700 metres reach.
4000 spread beam, two lane spread at 200 metres and <500 metres reach.
1503 searchlamp, six lanes spread at 300 metres and almost 800 metres reach.

The ideal setup is to have two of them mounted slightly cross-eyed to give an around the corner effect near maximum range. I use 12v 150 watt QH bulbs but there is nothing stopping you fitting an HID conversion if you have a low output alternator.

Out of curiosity, what P/N are the 12v x 150 watt QH globes you are using?

cheers
Tombie

[Tombie]

Brian.... Can you provide the part number for the 150W globes you're using?

Any feedback on my response?

I'm keen to hear your views

[PAT303]

If you have to have the biggest and best so you can be a hero at BBQ's,in other words a tosser,buy big lights,if you travel alot at night you'll find long ranged lights a PITA as you have to turn them off too early because of oncoming traffic.From personal experience doing alot of night driving I want a wide beam that cuts into the bush 40 feet either side of the road and about 500 feet forward,I want braking room/reaction time nothing else. Pat

[DeanoH]

Never had much luck with driving lights, corrugations usually win in the end with lights pointing all over the place or on the road somewhere behind. One one memorable occasion the LH spotty was driven past the bull bar and through the grille of the RRC by a large kangaroos head and its remains (spotty) were resting against the air con condenser.
I've found it's better value to have quality relay fed H4 headlamps protected in the guards and as Pat points out, you've got to dip driving lights with oncoming traffic so IMO good Lo/Hi headlamps are a better choice..
Mostly I avoid night driving like the plague, it's a mugs game. All sorts of animals about at night time, including two legged ones. Much better to be sitting around a campfire with a glass of Port. :)

Deano :)

[superquag]

Pat, first bit of sense I've heard for a long time... :p

[BigJon]

If you have to have the biggest and best so you can be a hero at BBQ's,in other words a tosser,buy big lights,if you travel alot at night you'll find long ranged lights a PITA as you have to turn them off too early because of oncoming traffic.From personal experience doing alot of night driving I want a wide beam that cuts into the bush 40 feet either side of the road and about 500 feet forward,I want braking room/reaction time nothing else. Pat

I used to do a lot of night driving and I had two sets of driving lights on my RRC. A pair of Hella search lights (of the type much loved by Brian) converted to HID and a set of Hella Rallye 4000 spread beams also converted to HID.

If I could see the glow of oncoming vehicle lights I would switch off the spot lights first. Then as the oncoming glow got brighter I would switch off the spread beam lights. When I could tell the vehicle was close to line of sight I would dip back to low beam.

I for one think there is no such thing as too much light going both down the road and spreading to the sides.

[Boxhead63]

Spotties are a PITA in the Kimberley. The roads are generally flat and straight and the on coming traffic makes it all a great nuisance. Therefore I only drive at night in emergencies and at 80kph. Hitting one of the BFO Brahmans that frequent The Derby Hwy could be rather painfull and besides it would cost me a carton in penalties to the social club. The only real answer to the conundrum of night driving is do it only if you have to.

Cheers
Rob

[AGRO]

I too have a strong preference is to drive during day light hours.

How ever circumstances dictated early night travel recently coming west across the Nullabour.

"Spot light blindness" is signifcant having to travel on low beam for far longer than necessary. Approaching drivers often have to travel at low beam for bloody kms because neither driver can judge the distance between when one vehicle has spots operating.

I don't think there are too many drivers like BigJon who progressively dip their lights - thanks BigJon

[BigJon]

As an addition to my comments, I also never "outdrive" my low beam headlights. If I feel that I can't see well enough on low beam I slow down. It isn't that hard to do and in the grander scheme of things doesn't add a lot to a trip time.

[Tombie]

Brian...

Whats happening mate? Why wont you reply?

[Tombie]

I use 12v 150 watt QH bulbs but there is nothing stopping you fitting an HID conversion if you have a low output alternator.

Again...

Please advise the part number for the QH 12v 150w bulbs you claim to be using...

I ask this because - No known manufacturer makes them in H3 (which is what the spots you talk about take)...

I've always been impressed by your knowledge Brian, but this time were you 'caught out' ? Or just not interested in adding information to a thread that I believe has become quite informative...

Sincerely

[roamer]

Again...

Please advise the part number for the QH 12v 150w bulbs you claim to be using...

Sincerely

Don't know what Brian uses,
but Osram make a 12v 150w for FYRLYT, part # 16000

[Tombie]

Don't know what Brian uses,
but Osram make a 12v 150w for FYRLYT, part # 16000

Roamer, I know that one thanks mate.

But no-one makes a H3 in 12v 150watt...

Osram makes the Xenophot #16000 for Fyrlyt exclusively...

I'm more interested in Brians comment, and his refusal to answer a general question, or discuss the specifics of the "If you know your physics" comment ;)

Seems he may have told a little "porkie" and feels a little shy :angel:

cheers

[Bigbjorn]

Here are the distance and spread diagrams from the Hella catalogue.

I got the 12v x 150 w bulbs from Supercheap at least 5 years ago. No idea of make.

[DeanoH]

This mob in the US claim to give you a pair of 150 watt H3 globes with these lights. Not sure if it's bull**** or not.

2 150 WATT 4X4 OFF ROAD JEEP DODGE FORD BRONCO TOYOTA FOG LIGHTS DRIVING LAMPS | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-150-WATT-4X4-OFF-ROAD-JEEP-DODGE-FORD-BRONCO-TOYOTA-FOG-LIGHTS-DRIVING-LAMPS-/330752636718?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4d0264b72e)


Deano :)

[Tombie]

This mob in the US claim to give you a pair of 150 watt H3 globes with these lights. Not sure if it's bull**** or not.

2 150 WATT 4X4 OFF ROAD JEEP DODGE FORD BRONCO TOYOTA FOG LIGHTS DRIVING LAMPS | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-150-WATT-4X4-OFF-ROAD-JEEP-DODGE-FORD-BRONCO-TOYOTA-FOG-LIGHTS-DRIVING-LAMPS-/330752636718?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4d0264b72e)


Deano :)

I'm messaging with him now. He's being very cagey...

[Tombie]

Here are the distance and spread diagrams from the Hella catalogue.

I got the 12v x 150 w bulbs from Supercheap at least 5 years ago. No idea of make.

Brian

You are not providing me anything with that drawing... Its a modelled beam pattern.

Another 240mm Lighting product (also Parabolic!!!!) claims 1 lux at 1200 mtrs, in spot mode with similar "pattern"

And they are far from useful as a spot only!!!!

BTW: Add a clear lense cover / filter and they're 83% output....



BTW - No known manufacturers make a 150W (rated - not claimed equiv output) H3 globe that even industry experts I know have ever found / seen.

We're chasing down some leads, but H3 in all known brands top out at 130w

Rang Supercheap - They've never stocked a 150w H3 in their system (nationwide).

Can SOMEONE show me a pic of the base showing this 150w.....?????

[DeanoH]

I'm messaging with him now. He's being very cagey...

Yeah ! If it's true he's the only vendor in the world selling 150 watt H3's, he's sure to make a fortune. :p
Doesn't mean to say people aren't selling 130 watters re labelled though.:o
I haven't checked but 150 watters may be available in different (non H3) bases.

Deano :)

[Tombie]

Yeah ! If it's true he's the only vendor in the world selling 150 watt H3's, he's sure to make a fortune. :p
Doesn't mean to say people aren't selling 130 watters re labelled though.:o
I haven't checked but 150 watters may be available in different (non H3) bases.

Deano :)

True :) But still not useful to the punter either!!!!

Whats (pun intended) worse is that people believe that Watts is the measure of light output. Its not, just a measure of power consumption.

So if you have a 150w globe running at 20 lumen/watt then you're pulling a lot of power for little luminance.

Using IR technology you can get a lot more from a filament now.... Were talking serious output...

[Roulston]

I also have a Tigerz ??? On my Defender and it is great. I dont know if it would match the duty cycle of a name brand, but man of hose are coming ut of the same chinese factory. It serbed me well, but only in anger about four times in the past 18 months.

If you are one that tries to get stuck and spend more time winching than driving you mght want to make a more serious investment.

I also mounted a pair of HID lights that blind roos at 500 meters, wonderful. Maybe $700

Cheers, tony


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[DeanoH]

True :) But still not useful to the punter either!!!!
....................

At the risk of being a total cynic, does the vendor care ?

I'm sure that if a 150 watt H3 globe was feasible it would be out there. Perception is reality in the real world. The relationship between power and light output is an old one. More is good MUST be better.

It's only relatively recently with LED lighting becoming common that Lumens/Lux vs. watts has become more widely understood.

Deano :)

[Tombie]

At the risk of being a total cynic, does the vendor care ?

I'm sure that if a 150 watt H3 globe was feasible it would be out there. Perception is reality in the real world. The relationship between power and light output is an old one. More is good MUST be better.

It's only relatively recently with LED lighting becoming common that Lumens/Lux vs. watts has become more widely understood.

Deano :)

And you're absolutely right again Deano...

Its always been a case of "mine goes to eleven" - Spinal Tap when it comes to this sort of thing.

Interestingly, whats even worse is Lumen ratings... As you may well know they mean nothing in the real world, only the initial output from the emitter.

LED lights and light bars are the absolute worst for this.

Emitter output bears only a cursory influence on useable output.

The Oledone units recently have pretty decent emitter specs, 3w Crees..
But which Cree are they using? What reflector and optics...

When I get the time I will get out my light meter and have a bloody good play :cool:

[connock]

Imho you cant go past light force, ajustable beam, poly carb construction, dont fall apart from vibration, dont rust, plastic has the best chrome and localy designed by a guy on York Peninsula SA. All parts sold sepperatly.;)

connock

[R2D2]

I dont know why but most trucks that go through my work are fitted with Lightforce lights.
IMO they are not worth the money. The mount in particular i believe is not strong enough and the UV degradation on the housings after a few years is not to good.
I have a set of FYRLYT's and couldnt be happier. To me they are almost indestructable and by far the best light i have used in 20+ years.I have them set in a crossed pattern that appears to yield the best result for me.
From memory, if you use a 24v inverter you can run a higher wattage globe for better performance.(looking into this after my tax is done)
HID are a PITA as you are blinded by the oncoming signs because of the "whiteness" of the light and cant see **** when you dip them for oncoming vehicles.
I much prefer the "light" from the Fyrlyt's.
As for the cooling issue, i am fabbing up an Arab style mesh grille this weekend before i put my CAC back in and my bullbar back on. Not because of the lights but because i think it just runs a bit on the hot side in even stock trim without them.

Just my 2c

R2

[Tombie]

Imho you cant go past light force, ajustable beam, poly carb construction, dont fall apart from vibration, dont rust, plastic has the best chrome and localy designed by a guy on York Peninsula SA. All parts sold sepperatly.;)

connock

Mate... They are a great light... But there is now better out there.

Contrary to what is claimed... You shouldn't adjust them by twisting them - and Lightforce explicitly state not to when offroad!

The Plastic has a metalised (not chromed) finish and its not hard coated. A drop of moisture and they will turn grey.

They've also changed material spec and many are going powdery now especially vehicles which spend a lot of time outside (not garaged).

Google the following and see what you find: LightFarce

Local design guy was down the road from me - Eyre Peninsula.. Not York Peninsula. His name was Ray - A dentist and Shooter

He also hired a great team who then turned a business which was going broke in the USA to a huge profit maker.

That same team has now left and started manufacturing a far superior product - In Adelaide.....

:)

[Tombie]

Imho you cant go past light force, ajustable beam, poly carb construction, dont fall apart from vibration, dont rust, plastic has the best chrome and localy designed by a guy on York Peninsula SA. All parts sold sepperatly.;)

connock

Try buying a replacement front lens or reflector..

Not rebuildable....

Add the cover and the output drops remarkably... Add a colour cover and its lower again - like %70 of what you paid for :eek:

[Tombie]

This mob in the US claim to give you a pair of 150 watt H3 globes with these lights. Not sure if it's bull**** or not.

2 150 WATT 4X4 OFF ROAD JEEP DODGE FORD BRONCO TOYOTA FOG LIGHTS DRIVING LAMPS | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-150-WATT-4X4-OFF-ROAD-JEEP-DODGE-FORD-BRONCO-TOYOTA-FOG-LIGHTS-DRIVING-LAMPS-/330752636718?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4d0264b72e)


Deano :)

I quote "They are a generic no name I get in and sell only with my lights"

I asked what do I do when they pop? He said I'd have to go back to him!

Then I asked what lumen/watt they were.. He doesnt know!!!

I'd bet no better than 20 lumen / watt

[connock]

Mate... They are a great light... But there is now better out there.

Contrary to what is claimed... You shouldn't adjust them by twisting them - and Lightforce explicitly state not to when offroad!

The Plastic has a metalised (not chromed) finish and its not hard coated. A drop of moisture and they will turn grey.

They've also changed material spec and many are going powdery now especially vehicles which spend a lot of time outside (not garaged).

Google the following and see what you find: LightFarce

Local design guy was down the road from me - Eyre Peninsula.. Not York Peninsula. His name was Ray - A dentist and Shooter

He also hired a great team who then turned a business which was going broke in the USA to a huge profit maker.

That same team has now left and started manufacturing a far superior product - In Adelaide.....

:)

Thanks for the in put I must admit the set I bourght was years ago so probably before they changed materials. I originaly went for light force because I and my father always used there hand held spotie for shooting and the amount of abuse they got was amazing,so I naturally went that way.
I have got into this thread because i,m in the market for some lights.

connock

[Sprint]

I've found most of the lightforce fans to be relatively new to lighting, and have bought them on the "my brothers best mates cousins girlfriends uncle reckons theyre fantastic"..... doesnt mean theyre any good, it just means that there are a LOT of people gullible enough to fall for the marketing and blurb without actually doing back to back comparisons.........

[Tombie]

I've found most of the lightforce fans to be relatively new to lighting, and have bought them on the "my brothers best mates cousins girlfriends uncle reckons theyre fantastic"..... doesnt mean theyre any good, it just means that there are a LOT of people gullible enough to fall for the marketing and blurb without actually doing back to back comparisons.........

Actually, optically, and mechanically they are a very good light... Their output is at the forefront of the market.

Anyone want to hazard the ratio of passenger vehicles with driving lights? Its been researched and they have the data..

And, whilst at it... Which brand of driving light do you think is the MOST popular in Australia? (Also been researched)...

[33chinacars]

That same team has now left and started manufacturing a far superior product - In Adelaide..... FYRLYT ???
:)

Gary

[Tombie]

Thats them...

FYRLYT driving lights/truck/4wd/offroad/led/hid/halogen/home/en (http://www.fyrlyt.com)

[Tombie]

Thats them...

FYRLYT driving lights/truck/4wd/offroad/led/hid/halogen/home/en (http://www.fyrlyt.com)

I'm meeting with them again tomorrow :)

Having seen the testing, data and research they've done..
And their work exclusively with Osram.

All I can say is they are doing some amazing work.

[Curious]

I dont know why but most trucks that go through my work are fitted with Lightforce lights.
IMO they are not worth the money. The mount in particular i believe is not strong enough and the UV degradation on the housings after a few years is not to good.
I have a set of FYRLYT's and couldnt be happier. To me they are almost indestructable and by far the best light i have used in 20+ years.I have them set in a crossed pattern that appears to yield the best result for me.
From memory, if you use a 24v inverter you can run a higher wattage globe for better performance.(looking into this after my tax is done)
HID are a PITA as you are blinded by the oncoming signs because of the "whiteness" of the light and cant see **** when you dip them for oncoming vehicles.
I much prefer the "light" from the Fyrlyt's.
As for the cooling issue, i am fabbing up an Arab style mesh grille this weekend before i put my CAC back in and my bullbar back on. Not because of the lights but because i think it just runs a bit on the hot side in even stock trim without them.

Just my 2c

R2

FYRLYT no longer require the 12/24volt converter. If you have a pair of the original 100watt 12 volt halogens just go to your FYRLYT dealer and get the new OSRAM / FYRLYT 12 volt x 150watt x 5000 Lumen globes and swap them over.
They have the same focal point.

Hope this helps

[clubagreenie]

So whats RRP on the Fyrlyts?

R2, pics of the grille?

[SBD4]

So whats RRP on the Fyrlyts?

R2, pics of the grille?

I found this - $594 for one:

FYRLYT Genuine 5000 Lumen Driving Lights 3 Light Sets in 1 (http://www.prestigeoffroad.com.au/driving-lights/fyrlyt-genuine-5000-lumen-driving-lights-3-light-sets-in-1)

Edit: just saw Tombies post in general section - he says they're ~$600 a pair. Much better.

[aferrier]

I love my FYRLYTs...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1558.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1559.jpg

[cyclosarin]

I imagine the best benefit is noone has heard of FYRLYT yet, so they don't get knocked off like Lightforce spotties do.

Are they securly mounted in any case?

[clubagreenie]

Thats my only dislike of the Xrox bar, the lights hang upside down so evben if they are security nuts you still have good access to them to remove with other devices. Might be a nut/loctite/punch/weld job with alarm/30,000v connection.

[Tombie]

Try this: Insight Security - Search Shop (http://www.insight-direct.co.uk/search.php)

Search fo NoGo

nogo anti tamper bolt head protector.mpg - YouTube

Or...

ArmaCap Security Bolt Cap for M10 Bolt (http://www.firstfour.co.uk/item/2008415/armacap-security-bolt-cap-for-m10-bolt'ref=2169995)

[clubagreenie]

Notice they don't mention how to remove...

[cyclosarin]

Those are not supposed to be removed. They are for anti-vandal purposes with public fixings (gates, poles, parking meters, etc).

[Tombie]

Notice they don't mention how to remove...

Easy enough, if you have the tools, time and opportunity...

[talltales]

I fitted a set of HID kits from Jaycar for Series 800 IPF lights. The lights were $200 on Fleabay and the kits $65 each. They are 30w globes and after a hours fitting for under $400 they are the best. I have been from Queensland to the Flinders Ranges and back up the Birdsville track and down Cordillo downs and not one movement a or problem. Man are they bright, like daylight. Take a bit to start up but once working wow. Just pure white light and they make the halogen high beam on the D3 look yellow.
The Ballasts were mounted behind the grill and I had to drill another hole in the light casing but a grommet was supplied to seal this. Too easy.

[isuzurover]

I did a survey of the lights fitted to trucks I passed today.

1 truck had light force XGTs. The lenses looked yellowed with age.
1 truck Britax X-Ray.
The remaining 20 or so trucks were ~ 50/50 Narva and Hella

[Tombie]

I did a survey of the lights fitted to trucks I passed today.

1 truck had light force XGTs. The lenses looked yellowed with age.
1 truck Britax X-Ray.
The remaining 20 or so trucks were ~ 50/50 Narva and Hella

Seems to depend on the day here...

Either Light Force or Hella are the most common.

Although the other day I "spotted" 2 with Fyrlyts...

Of the hella equipped vehicles, most seem to be running 4000's



Most common light fitted to 4wdrives is IPF (they have a captive audience when vehicle fit outs are being done)

[Tombie]

I fitted a set of HID kits from Jaycar for Series 800 IPF lights. The lights were $200 on Fleabay and the kits $65 each. They are 30w globes and after a hours fitting for under $400 they are the best. I have been from Queensland to the Flinders Ranges and back up the Birdsville track and down Cordillo downs and not one movement a or problem. Man are they bright, like daylight. Take a bit to start up but once working wow. Just pure white light and they make the halogen high beam on the D3 look yellow.
The Ballasts were mounted behind the grill and I had to drill another hole in the light casing but a grommet was supplied to seal this. Too easy.

Under the function of: Glare = Bright.. Yes they are....

The wavelength produces a light to which the pupil doesnt dilate as easy. Making them feel 'brighter'.

You also mentioned the exact problem - "Take a bit to start"

Well, I've seen an incident from the warming up bit - truck hit the very object his HID spotlights were supposed to help prevent..
They were warming up at the time after dipping to pass an oncoming vehicle.

Even trucks dont like 7' Reds.... :o

[PeterOZ]

"take a bit to start"

what timeframe are we talking about here?

[talltales]

The main delay is initially when you switch to high beam for the first time. Once they are lit (first to full brightness) they are instantaneous from then on.
A brilliant light.

[Tombie]

The main delay is initially when you switch to high beam for the first time. Once they are lit (first to full brightness) they are instantaneous from then on.
A brilliant light.

Sorry, but that defies the entire way they are designed to operate ;)

The composition of the tube, the way the igniter works etc cannot allow this to occur or damage will occur or the light will fail to function.

[gghaggis]

The main delay is initially when you switch to high beam for the first time. Once they are lit (first to full brightness) they are instantaneous from then on.
A brilliant light.

Perhaps "near instantaneous"? Subjectively it's hard to tell. With my HID spots, certainly the initial switch to high beam takes 4 to 5 secs to reach full luminosity. After that, a short flick to low beam then back again doesn't produce any noticeable lag to full brightness. Low beam for more than 3 mins or so will again produce a delay when switching back to high.

Cheers,

Gordon

[clubagreenie]

So something in the system has a capacitive effect but only for a short period after which it will drain and require "recharging" before reaching full illumination.

[isuzurover]

So something in the system has a capacitive effect but only for a short period after which it will drain and require "recharging" before reaching full illumination.

Of course - the "ballast" in an HID system is an inductor/capacitor.

[Geedublya]

I don't think it has anything to do with voltage, more a function of the gas being up to or close to optimum operating temperature.

[Tombie]

I don't think it has anything to do with voltage, more a function of the gas being up to or close to optimum operating temperature.

Correct... The gas must for lack of technical term "settle" before being re-ignited