D3 TDV6 torque converter problem

[PeterOZ]

hoping some of the knowledgable folk can advise on this one.

My D3 has for about 6 months had this "noise" and vibration that comes in at around 50 - 70 kmh and it noticeable as you just back off a little on throttle or slightly apply throttle.

It almost sounds like a "brrttttttttt" sort of noise, and apprears to resonate through the drive train causing a vibration to be felt.

Very apparant when cold.

I have had it to the stealer about 5 times for this and they have no idea, keep telling me they can not hear it and when one of their guys came for a drive one day he did hear it but still they can not dignose it.

They did a transmission service, covered by the lease company thank goodness but no difference. The noise and vibration is gradually getting worse.

I spoke to MR auto at Redcliffe about servicing costs etc for my D3 as I'm about to come off lease and keeping the car. I mentioned the symptoms I am getting and immediately he said it was the torque convertor. they have had several present of late with this exact issue and symptoms.

Anyone else have this expereince? The car is at the stealers at present and have asked to to look again at this and told them what MR had stated.

Not sure if it is a warranty type thing or not. As I have had it to LR now 5 times including extended periods left with them, 3 & 4 days I expect that LR should warrant this problem. The car is covered by LR extended warranty.

Would love to see what people have expereinced with this and what the costs are.

Cheers
Peter

[Ivan]

Had exactly the same with my D3 when I first got it. Was taking it in for some warranty work when I felt a vibration, it was like driving over a rumble strip. Got to the garage and they eventually replaced the torque converter. That solved the problem and thankfully it was still under warranty.

HTH

Ivan

[PeterOZ]

thanks Ivan, I'll continue to push for this to be resolved.

[NomadicD3]

Hi Peter,
If you want to talk to someone who has been through this then normthe1 ,on this forum would probably be able to help you out. If I remember correctly his was right at the end of the extended warranty and I think he ended up with a complete gearbox reconditioning, not sure about that but if you were to PM him I'm sure he's be happy to talk to you as he seems like a good guy:)

[PeterOZ]

thanks mate shall do

[driverkelly]

Not sure about your description of the noise but the vibration has been a big problem with the Poms on their forum DISCO3.CO.UK They call it the Judders there is quite a lot of posts there to read and the problem they have had has been rectified for all of them by a simple oil additive called Dr trannie shudder fix, or something close to that. May be worth a look if you have to fork out for the converter. They swear by it. But dare I say it they are P... Regards.:D:D:D:D

[KOOS BEST]

I have had similar problems, especially when towing.

Agents told me I require a new TC,
ZF specialist told me the same
Independants told me the same.

Well I did a double flush , with FUCHS 4400 as recommended by a guy on a BMW forum.Did not use the L/Rover spec Shell oil 1375.4

Made it much better still had a slight shudder.

Then on the Ford F150, BMW and Jaguar forum, the guys had exactly the same troubles in their ZF6HP26 boxes as we experience, but they add an additive with excellent results.
I for one don't believe in additives, but what I have read I couldn't believe. After an e mail to LUBEGARD USA I eventually found an agent in South Africa.

Ordered the stuff added it and .................................................. ......
MY GEARBOX AS SMOOTH AS THE DAY I BOUGHT IT AND ZERO SHUDDER.

Have driven 500km now, and it's amazing stuff.

Long term , can't comment yet.

The stuff is
LUBEGARD Highly Friction Modified ATF Supplement (http://www.lubegard.com/C-177/LUBEGARD+Highly+Friction+Modified+ATF+Supplement)

and then I added the magic potion
Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx (http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-230/Dr.+Tranny+Instant+Shudder+Fixx)


Really this worked for me!!!!

[PeterOZ]

I have had similar problems, especially when towing.

Agents told me I require a new TC,
ZF specialist told me the same
Independants told me the same.

Well I did a double flush , with FUCHS 4400 as recommended by a guy on a BMW forum.Did not use the L/Rover spec Shell oil 1375.4

Made it much better still had a slight shudder.

Then on the Ford F150, BMW and Jaguar forum, the guys had exactly the same troubles in their ZF6HP26 boxes as we experience, but they add an additive with excellent results.
I for one don't believe in additives, but what I have read I couldn't believe. After an e mail to LUBEGARD USA I eventually found an agent in South Africa.

Ordered the stuff added it and .................................................. ......
MY GEARBOX AS SMOOTH AS THE DAY I BOUGHT IT AND ZERO SHUDDER.

Have driven 500km now, and it's amazing stuff.

Long term , can't comment yet.

The stuff is
LUBEGARD Highly Friction Modified ATF Supplement (http://www.lubegard.com/C-177/LUBEGARD+Highly+Friction+Modified+ATF+Supplement)

and then I added the magic potion
Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx (http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-230/Dr.+Tranny+Instant+Shudder+Fixx)


Really this worked for me!!!!


WOW! dunno mine is a shudder per se, more like a vibration and rumble, like a resonance through the drivetrain. Hard to describe.

I had major noise, vibration issue in the diff of my old Toyota surf a few years back and added a "magic" additive as well, made a world of difference.

[Geedublya]

Just be careful when replacing fluid or adding additives to correct a shudder, either may correct the shudder (for the moment) but it could be masking the real problem. When you change the fluid and filter cut open the filter and check for debris.
Any metal or clutch fibres indicate that there is a problem which a fluid change or additive addition won't fix.

It is common for torque converter clutches to be the cause of these shudders due to them breaking apart. This can be repaired by either replacing the torque converter or cutting it open and replacing the clutch.

[KOOS BEST]

Just be careful when replacing fluid or adding additives to correct a shudder, either may correct the shudder (for the moment) but it could be masking the real problem. When you change the fluid and filter cut open the filter and check for debris.
Any metal or clutch fibres indicate that there is a problem which a fluid change or additive addition won't fix.

It is common for torque converter clutches to be the cause of these shudders due to them breaking apart. This can be repaired by either replacing the torque converter or cutting it open and replacing the clutch.

I have done that, replaced the sump with a steel sump and a new filter.
The old sump had ZERO filings on the magnets and ZERO filings in the plastic filter.
What this additive do is to remove the glaze that forms on the TC clutches.

I have just returned home last night with this vehicle, really she is so smooth and than all SHUDDER IS GONE.

My concern is , that the OEM oil SHELL 1375.4 cannot cope with our heat and weight we lug around here in Africa, and it cannot last 240 000km or ten years. If you read the specs this oil say nothing about anti shuddering properties while other brands its build in.

Just this weekend I travelled with a friend in his Prado 4.0 V6 and true nuts going uphill he has shuddering too, he denies it's from the gearbox , I told him it's same symptoms I had in my D3 and its from the tranny.


I am so impressed with this product I ordered it again just to have it in stock.

[adzee]

Might just give this a try... Thanks!

[Geedublya]

I have done that, replaced the sump with a steel sump and a new filter.
The old sump had ZERO filings on the magnets and ZERO filings in the plastic filter.
What this additive do is to remove the glaze that forms on the TC clutches.

I have just returned home last night with this vehicle, really she is so smooth and than all SHUDDER IS GONE.

My concern is , that the OEM oil SHELL 1375.4 cannot cope with our heat and weight we lug around here in Africa, and it cannot last 240 000km or ten years. If you read the specs this oil say nothing about anti shuddering properties while other brands its build in.

Just this weekend I travelled with a friend in his Prado 4.0 V6 and true nuts going uphill he has shuddering too, he denies it's from the gearbox , I told him it's same symptoms I had in my D3 and its from the tranny.


I am so impressed with this product I ordered it again just to have it in stock.

Execellent. I wasn't so lucky. My filter had metal and clutch fibres.

Try the fuchs oil it is a full synthetic and is better able to handle the abuse from what I've been told.

[KOOS BEST]

Execellent. I wasn't so lucky. My filter had metal and clutch fibres.

Try the fuchs oil it is a full synthetic and is better able to handle the abuse from what I've been told.

I have filled my box with FUCHS ATF 4400, got a recommendation from a rep. in Germany that it will work and it's the same spec as ZF FLUID 6+ OR 8 for the newer 8 spd boxes.

So far , so good , and easily available.

[Geedublya]

Keep us informed how it performs. I want to use it at the next change.

[smrkolj.sebastjan@gmail.com]

Hi experts, I’ve seen a few conversations around D3 TDV6 torque convertor causing the vibreation and the potential solution being additives but wanted to check if someone has replaced the convertor without complete transmission rebuild? My mechanic is suggesting replacing the tranny at some point but the cost is killing me ($7,500). Interested to know if replacing TC is viable (and cheaper) option and if there is someone in NSW who can do it.

Thanks, Seb

[SeanC]

Hi Seb,

Had the torque converter vibration at about 200000kms. Had a change of transmission oil (not a mega flush) and a tube of Dr. Tranny. 25000kms later the vibration has started again. When I had it done the indie said it may help for 2000kms or 20000+kms no way of telling. Same decision for me. Torque converter or transmission rebuild. Depends on the savings in labour but I’m leaning towards a rebuild.

An oil change and Dr Tranny could get you a few more kms. Use it to save up for a rebuild.
How many kms on the clock?

[smrkolj.sebastjan@gmail.com]

Hi Seb,

Had the torque converter vibration at about 200000kms. Had a change of transmission oil (not a mega flush) and a tube of Dr. Tranny. 25000kms later the vibration has started again. When I had it done the indie said it may help for 2000kms or 20000+kms no way of telling. Same decision for me. Torque converter or transmission rebuild. Depends on the savings in labour but I’m leaning towards a rebuild.

An oil change and Dr Tranny could get you a few more kms. Use it to save up for a rebuild.
How many kms on the clock?


230,000 on the clock. Done the flush and oil change but no Dr Tranny 5k km back.

[SeanC]

230,000 on the clock. Done the flush and oil change but no Dr Tranny 5k km back.

Might be worth a Tube of Dr Tranny and an oil change. I had mine done as soon as the vibration started and it was happening only occasionally then.

[smrkolj.sebastjan@gmail.com]

Might be worth a Tube of Dr Tranny and an oil change. I had mine done as soon as the vibration started and it was happening only occasionally then.

Thanks Sean. Might try this

[PerthDisco]

230,000 on the clock. Done the flush and oil change but no Dr Tranny 5k km back.

Interested to know what was the gearbox service history prior to 225,000km and was the car used for towing? (Assuming you have owned the car for majority of its life).

[discorevy]

In order to buy a few people some time , I have in the past added 2x tubes of Dr Tranny to existing fluid , got them to drive it for a week, then flushed fluid till clear , drop old pan, fit new pan and filter , refill and add one tube of Dr tranny ..... none have had an issue since. first one around three years ago , last one 6 months ago.

I've also tested Penrite BMV on my own recently acquired RR with very good results so far , won't be passing judgement for a while yet though.

with the Dr Tranny , it usually sorts out the shudder / de-glazes the tcc by the time you've driven round the block

[smrkolj.sebastjan@gmail.com]

Interested to know what was the gearbox service history prior to 225,000km and was the car used for towing? (Assuming you have owned the car for majority of its life).

Only owned the car for the last 2 years. There was one tranny oil change prior to mine (not sure at what km). I bought it of dealer so no details on towing. I asume yes

[Ozzy119]

I had same rumble / shudder / vibration at the described scenario. One thing my mechanic asked me which immediately confirmed for him that it was the TC is the rev needle. Occasionally it fluttered (flicked up and down ever so slightly), from memory somewhere between 1200 - 1800 rpms. The unusual aspect to this is that the drive instruction was constant, ie regular acceleration, or coast. No rev change which could make the needle move up and down a few times before it made its mind up what to do.

If you see this (you'll know it when it happens) then absolutely it's the TC.

[Eric SDV6SE]

[/Quote] this "noise" and vibration that comes in at around 50 - 70 kmh and it noticeable as you just back off a little on throttle or slightly apply throttle.

It almost sounds like a "brrttttttttt" sort of noise, and apprears to resonate through the drive train causing a vibration to be felt.

Very apparant when cold.[/QUOTE]

Sounds a lot like the Torque converter, however note that the valve body in the bottom of the transmission may also be in need of a clean out. If lifting off and reapplyibf throttle, the transmission may be wanting to change gear. If the solenoids are dirty and the valve galleries blocked, it won't/can't select a gear easily. Also, worn clutch piston valve (also in the body) or worn accumulator at the end of each valve train could be adding to the problem.

Especially when cold, as the fluid viscosity is higher, exaggerating the issue even more. A fluid flush may not get rid of all the crud in the VB, especially around the solenoids and valve pistons.

[PerthDisco]

Only owned the car for the last 2 years. There was one tranny oil change prior to mine (not sure at what km). I bought it of dealer so no details on towing. I asume yes

Sounds like the Dr Tranny approach well worth a try.

I’d love to know if @cripesalmighty D3 with 527,000km is still on original box?

[SeanC]

I had same rumble / shudder / vibration at the described scenario. One thing my mechanic asked me which immediately confirmed for him that it was the TC is the rev needle. Occasionally it fluttered (flicked up and down ever so slightly), from memory somewhere between 1200 - 1800 rpms. The unusual aspect to this is that the drive instruction was constant, ie regular acceleration, or coast. No rev change which could make the needle move up and down a few times before it made its mind up what to do.

If you see this (you'll know it when it happens) then absolutely it's the TC.

Cruising at 90 kph on the flat no acceleration I get the shudder. Go into manual mode, drop down a gear, all good. Might make the TC last a bit longer by doing this.

[Discodicky]

In order to buy a few people some time , I have in the past added 2x tubes of Dr Tranny to existing fluid , got them to drive it for a week, then flushed fluid till clear , drop old pan, fit new pan and filter , refill and add one tube of Dr tranny ..... none have had an issue since. first one around three years ago , last one 6 months ago.

I've also tested Penrite BMV on my own recently acquired RR with very good results so far , won't be passing judgement for a while yet though.

with the Dr Tranny , it usually sorts out the shudder / de-glazes the tcc by the time you've driven round the block


FYI,
I have had Penrite BMV in my MY13 Disco for just over 10,000 klms now and no probs whatsoever.
Did a complete flush.

[smrkolj.sebastjan@gmail.com]

I had same rumble / shudder / vibration at the described scenario. One thing my mechanic asked me which immediately confirmed for him that it was the TC is the rev needle. Occasionally it fluttered (flicked up and down ever so slightly), from memory somewhere between 1200 - 1800 rpms. The unusual aspect to this is that the drive instruction was constant, ie regular acceleration, or coast. No rev change which could make the needle move up and down a few times before it made its mind up what to do.

If you see this (you'll know it when it happens) then absolutely it's the TC.

Tested last night and it did exactly what you described. The rev needle started fluttering at 1500 rpm.

[RANDLOVER]

I wonder if the shuddering/erratic rpm throws up a fault code, and if so which one/s?

[SeanC]

I wonder if the shuddering/erratic rpm throws up a fault code, and if so which one/s?

No fault codes for me.

[Ozzy119]

Tested last night and it did exactly what you described. The rev needle started fluttering at 1500 rpm.

Oh !!

There is a positive (excluding the costs ha ha) is that you also get the steel pan installed at the same time.

[Landis3]

Could anybody assist with where I could get this same fault looked at in Brisbane? Mine has a slight shudder and slip in 2nd, hardly noticeable but does my head in. When the trans is got it is clunky between changing up and down, often doesn’t want to change down or up. I had someone do an oil change but doubt the work they did and their apparent knowledge. I need a trusted trans mechanic any help would be great.

[Eric SDV6SE]

At landis3, Get the valve body looked at, issues between shifting is related to the valves and solenoids in the valve body, not the torque converter or clutch packs. Valve body rebuild followed by full fluid flush should sort it out.

[Landis3]

At landis3, Get the valve body looked at, issues between shifting is related to the valves and solenoids in the valve body, not the torque converter or clutch packs. Valve body rebuild followed by full fluid flush should sort it out.
Thanks Eric, anywhere you would recommend in Brisbane?

[Eric SDV6SE]

Thanks Eric, anywhere you would recommend in Brisbane?
PM sent