D2 ACE speed signal modifier

[Graeme]

I can now supply a speed signal modifier for use with the D2's ACE system which can allow the bars to be unlocked at any speed and can remove the 40 kph limit on ACE's rough road handling function. It consists of a module, a 3-position rotary switch c/w red/green LED and a wiring harness which has to intercept ACE's speed signal wire and connect to ignition and earth, all of which are at available at the ACE ecu connector. Switch positions are Rough Road (green), normal (off), Unlocked (red). If the vehicle has a Truspeed module fitted then the input speed signal must be the unmodified SLABS signal.

I built one of these for my previous D2 and used it extensively and also made a couple for other people. I recently had a few PCBs made so can readily make them on request.

The cost is $60 including postage which covers the parts cost and a nominal charge for the time it takes to make the module, switch and leads.

Edit: Unlocked could be speed-limited if required, changing to either rough road or standard at higher speeds.
Edit2: If there's any interest, jumpers could be added to the pcb (10 pcbs only cost $14) to allow over-riding an unlocked speed limit (eg 50 kph) and whether to apply the standard or rough road setting if the speed limit is not over-ridden, rather than produce bespoke versions.

[d2dave]

Graeme, Having just purchased a D2 two weeks ago this ACE is all new to me. Can you please explain what this rough road function is, as well as any other functions?

[Graeme]

ACE's rough road function detects when a vehicle is travelling over rough ground from the signals obtained from the 2 accelerometers. The bars will be partly or fully relaxed as necessary (they are usually locked unless cornering when they will progressively push against the lean) to make the vehicle ride more smoothly, as long as its not cornering hard and the speed is less than 40 kph. The general idea is good although because the vehicle stops rocking when the bars are relaxed, the bars are locked again because ACE thinks the road is now smooth so the ride cycles between rough and smooth, but better than always rough. Unlocked is smoothest but handling through corners is woeful by comparison and lack of push against the lean going through S bends is not something to be without, because it is so good.

I found that with the 40 kph limit removed the ride on country roads can be significantly improved to the extent that I almost always used that option, only returning to standard operation if I wanted to travel particularly quickly around sharp bends. Rough road allows more lean because it allows more lateral acceleration.

My rough road setting removes the 40 kph limit by providing a 35 kph signal for speeds above 35 kph. The bars-unlocked setting provides a 2 kph signal, although that's going to be speed limited by default to around 40 or 50 kph (not decided yet - opinions welcome!) after which, if not disabled by a pcb jumper, either the actual speed or rough road speed will be used if set by an alternate pcb jumper. I suspect that speed limited then rough road would be the best configuration.

[d2dave]

Graeme, This is how I deciphered your explanation. When rough road setting is activated, the vehicle will ride better on a rough country road in a straight line, but the ACE will not work when cornering. Is this correct?

I know this next question is impossible to answer. How much difference does this make to the ride?

[Graeme]

ACE still operates to push against the lean when cornering in its rough road mode, its just that the system allows a bit more flexibility - not quite so sports car like.

I wanted ACE on my 2nd D2 because I didn't like the rigidity of the standard ARBs on my 1st to the extent that I permanently removed a link from a front bar. I was quite dissapointed to discover the ride was worse with ACE due to the much stiffer bars that were locked in a straght line, so set about creating a solution. After fitting my modification I occasionally would switch back to standard to remind me just how much better the ride was. I was also driving my 84 RRC which has no bars and the RRC rode so much more smoothly than standard ACE so the RRC was my yardstick. Very occasionally I would encounter a particularly rough section of highway where standard ACE or bars unlocked rode better at speed.

I found tracks with pot-holes were so much smoother with bars unlocked because wheels could drop into depressions and rise over bumps without trying to take the chassis with it.

Edit: With rough road enabled the first few bumps of a rough patch were felt then the vehicle would float over the rest, as long as the patch wasn't so long that rough road handling would be ended causing the next few bumps to be felt.

[twr7cx]

Where's the switch mount? I like the concept and capability it will offer, but hate the idea of scaring the dash of the HSE obtrusively.

[clubagreenie]

Me too, I'm discussing a way to use smaller switches with Graeme.

[Graeme]

I'll be able to provide either the module with the rotary switch (Jaycar SR1212 a double pole, setup as on-off-on with attached LED) or the module with a miniature SPDT toggle switch & LED that can, if desired, be replaced with an equivalent switch or even 2 SPST switches, 1 for each option. The rotary switch uses 3 wires & 3 pin connector whereas a single pole switch and LED will use 4 wires & 4 pin connector and be programmed accordingly.

[clubagreenie]

Graeme,

After spending the morning at Jaycar, I found a SPST switch, the SK0975. It's a mini sized switch that will fit into the blanks that surround the instrument binnacle or alternately in the extra switch panel that will replace the coin/ash tray. It has three locations, I'm planning on using two for switched and the third for the LED indicators.

[Graeme]

Would a 3mm LED fit in the same panel with a switch?

[clubagreenie]

It'll be awful close. I'm planning on putting it into the side (more curved side, the outer side if looking at the binnacle) which will face down and not be so glaring but still visible.

If possible could you supply one unassembled at the switch/LED end (unless you can work out but you'll need the switch panel)

The switch panel is available at Switch Housing - AWR1159LNF | Discovery Series 2, Range Rover Classic | Land Rover, Range Rover | British Parts UK (http://britishparts.co.uk/products/7916-switch-housing-AWR1159LNF)

[Graeme]

Unassembled if that's what you want.

The LEDs wont be run at full voltage so that they're not excessively bright at night.

[CJT]

My rough road setting removes the 40 kph limit by providing a 35 kph signal for speeds above 35 kph. The bars-unlocked setting provides a 2 kph signal, although that's going to be speed limited by default to around 40 or 50 kph (not decided yet - opinions welcome!) after which, if not disabled by a pcb jumper, either the actual speed or rough road speed will be used if set by an alternate pcb jumper. I suspect that speed limited then rough road would be the best configuration.

Graeme,

Will you be able to provide a unit with a bars unlocked setting with no speed limit.

I want to use the unit in conjunction with swaybar disconnects and need to be certain the ACE hydraulic is not going to activate when unlocked.

[clubagreenie]

Graeme, there's a better way to fit the LED in with the switch in the blank.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1753.jpg

Pull a blank and look at the long section that pushed into the hole, that can be cut off just behind the clips that hold it into the binnacle. The cover pulls off. The switch can fit into this and is just small enough to fit into the long section (might need to mark out its location on the rear to cut out the switch hole right).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1754.jpg

Now where the cover clips on, one side is slightly longer than the other. There'd be room there for the LED to fit, hot glued from behind and a touch of matt black to stop light escaping the rear and the legs could go into the side of the long section to join into the wiring.

The switch is also marked I/O on the front and I'll be painting them out in satin black to match the blanks.

[Graeme]

Graeme,

Will you be able to provide a unit with a bars unlocked setting with no speed limit.

I want to use the unit in conjunction with swaybar disconnects and need to be certain the ACE hydraulic is not going to activate when unlocked.
The speed limit can be disabled by fitting a supplied jumper. I didn't have a speed limit on mine but that was for my use only.

ACE unlocks the bars by opening valves that are closed by default. If using disconnects I think it would be safer to remove the ACE fuse although it wouldn't take much of a test to discover if that was needed.

[Graeme]

I fitted a miniature toggle switch to one of those blanks, along with 3 LEDs initially then only 1 LED for a later version. However it was quite time-consuming filing out the opening so I wanted to provide a switch that was faster to make. However if you're prepared to make your preferred switch fit then go for it. The rotary switch is needed for my Llams kits because 4 switch positions are used.

[clubagreenie]

Since I have the three empty switch positions at the ash tray spot, I'll use two for the switches and the third for the 2 LED's rather than what I said earlier about putting it into the side.

I'm also fitting one of the Traxide 160 dual battery systems and using the same switch and fitting the LED into the side of that blank. Which will be on the RH lowest switch position of the binnacle.

[twr7cx]

Being an HSE I don't have any spare switch blankets, except for the one underneath the left side of the instrument cluster. This one is large enough to fit some of the rocker switches. I'll have a look into some options on the weekend.

[clubagreenie]

You'll fit one mini SPDT switch & LED as described by Graeme in post #8 into a single blank.

[Graeme]

This is what I ended-up having in my D2. I have toggle switches to spare.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/1723.jpg

[clubagreenie]

How did you end up with the cruise control button over there? Just wondering about the harness length.

Don't have a spare audio control switch for D2 about do you? Need to get one for adapting for a different use. On that, the rotary coupling has only one part no. Does it have the connections for the audio even if not fitted.

[Graeme]

The upside-down CC switch was for driving lights. The CC switch is latching hence just right to operate a relay.

I don't have any D2 switches.

[twr7cx]

You'll fit one mini SPDT switch & LED as described by Graeme in post #8 into a single blank.

Reference the picture above. The only blank I have is the odd one that is below the LED. It's a small rectangular one there underneath the instrument cluster surround. I have seen some people fit a small rocker switch into that position.

[Graeme]

That marked cut-out is where the dimmer switch is mounted if you decide to install one.

[twr7cx]

That marked cut-out is where the dimmer switch is mounted if you decide to install one.

Dimmer switch for?

[Graeme]

Instruments. There's another thread going about the dimmer switch.

[Nova]

Hi Graeme,

Do you still have these available? I am looking for one for an upcoming trip.

Cheers,
Nova

[LandyAndy]

If they are still available I would also look at getting one.Send a PM if need be with AC/BSB details.
Thanks
Andrew

[Graeme]

Yes, still available but made as required so best to let me know how soon.

Edit: I should have 2 kits ready in a day or two using a miniature toggle switch with attached LED.

[LandyAndy]

Hi Graeme.
I have spare binnacle switch space so the mini toggle/LED will be fine.
I like the idea of rough road being selectable.Is it possible to have a 3 way toggle that does normal/rough/unlocked???
If not happy with the rough road option only for when Im travelling on OTHER Shires ROUGH gravel roads;);););););) Ours are the best you get;););););)
I do very little proper off-roading these days so the fully unlocked isnt that important.
Send me your AC/BSB via PM and I will sort the coins out.Tell me how much I owe!!!
Cheers
Andrew

[Graeme]

Andrew, it has a 3-way toggle just as you describe - normal, rough road and unlocked. The price is $60 as shown in the first post. I'll PM my a/c details when I have a couple of them ready - easier to make 2 at the same time rather than have to work out how I did the last one each time.

You must have had a hand in fixing "my" lane recently because its a racetrack now, until it rains again at least.

[LandyAndy]

AWESOME!!!
As soon as you send the details I will send the coins.
Cheers
Andrew

[Graeme]

Could the person who found the leads a bit short suggest better lengths for the switch and power/signal leads please? I can't remember how long I made them but think they could have been around 1.2 metres each. If only I hadn't sold my D2...

[LandyAndy]

Could the person who found the leads a bit short suggest better lengths for the switch and power/signal leads please? I can't remember how long I made them but think they could have been around 1.2 metres each. If only I hadn't sold my D2...

Greame
Rough measurement.LHS of glovebox across and up to LHS binnical is 1.2m so allowing to run cable around items behind the dash could be tight.1.5m may be better????
If you need a closer measurement let me know where the cable needs to run,will do a dummy wire and measure.
Andrew

[Graeme]

Thanks Andrew. I'll make a 1.5m ACE ecu to module lead and a 0.5m module to switch lead which would allow the module to sit on the tray above the pedals and the switch mounted anywhere nearby.

[clubagreenie]

I did ask about making it longer as I was/will eventually fit it under the rear of the centre consul cubby. So long enough for the full length of the consul and then across the dash to the ECU.

[Graeme]

Attached are fitting instructions for the ACE speed signal modifier. I have made the ecu to module lead 1.5 metres and module to switch lead about 75 cm. The module doesn't have to be accessible once its jumper has been set and proven to work. I'll PM a/c details.

[Graeme]

I did ask about making it longer as I was/will eventually fit it under the rear of the centre consul cubby.Do you need an extension for the ACE ecu to module lead and if so, how long does it need to be?

[Graeme]

Note that the kit contains a small 4-pin loop-back plug that can be used to provide ACE with the normal speed signal if the module is temporarily removed. It has the 2 signal pins bridged.

[Mikey]

Hi Graeme, I will take one for my D2 as well please. Pm details of payment etc.

Cheers,
Mike

[twr7cx]

PM sent.

[twr7cx]

I installed this yesterday, finally. Haven't had a chance to test it (ran out of time), but the vehicle drives as per normal when the switch is in the off position, so that is good.

I followed your instructions, and they were perfect.

For anyone not familiar with the area, worth reading Slunnie's guide www.slunnie.com :: View topic - Truespeed speedo correction installation (http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:xdnplPJNDToJ:www.slunnie.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php%3Ft%3D5+&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=au) which is what I used to install my TrueSpped.

I'll get a picture of my switch setup, I used a black missile switch cover over it to prevent anyone accidentally turning it on.

I have also used two Narva pilot lamps ( Products (http://www.narva.com.au/products/detail/421/noheaders/1/?KeepThis=true&TB_iframe=true&height=500&width=720&modal=true&parent=switches-popup-layout) ) for the indicator lights, but I am finding that they are not bright enough.

[clubagreenie]

I so have to get around to sending mine back.

[twr7cx]

I so have to get around to sending mine back.

Sending it back?

[clubagreenie]

I need a longer cable for one of them, I'm mounting the box under the cubby between the seats. Also there was a change needed on one part in the early units. It's sorted now, so unless Graeme contacted you you should be fine.

[jadan]

PM sent

[Jbin]

[QUOTE=Graeme;1901483]Andrew, it has a 3-way toggle just as you describe - normal, rough road and unlocked. The price is $60 as shown in the first post. I'll PM my a/c details when I have a couple of them ready - easier to make 2 at the same time rather than have to work out how I did the last one each time.

Hey mate. Are you still making these?

[Graeme]

I could make one up as I have a set of leads that I kept as a sample and have a partly assembled pcb.