L322: Remove calipers to change front pads?

[spudboy]

Need to replace the front pads (warning msg on the info console) so took off the wheel to check things out.

There is a tricky looking spring catch thing on the front brakes that seems to hold the 2 parts of the caliper together.

Do I just unclip this to get to the pads, or do I need to remove the whole caliper from the knuckle?

Searched through a few posts here, but no-one mentioned how they changed their pads, just that it was relatively straightforward.

If anyone has a pictorial tutorial on how to do it, post away!

Thanks
David

[Homestar]

No pics, but the caliper comes off in one piece - there are no clips holding it together. The only clip I can think of would be the anti rattle clip that keeps the pads jiggling around. It should be fairly apparent how they come off and go back on. Sorry I can't look at the moment, as SWMBO has the car. If no one else has posted be the time she gets home, I'll take a look.

Cheers - Gav

[RangieBit]

I'm with Gav on this one.

Haven't had to change the brake pads on my beast (yet!) but have changed plenty of BMW ones.

The only spring clip there is the anti-rattle one as correctly stated above.

You may have to squeeze the piston apart a little to get the pad(s) out. While it can be done with the caliper in situ if you're practised and very careful, the easiest and quickest way is to release the caliper assembly. Only remove one bolt so you can swing it clear of the disc. Then you can prize out the pads (they have clasps on the back) and reinsert the new ones. Swing the caliper back into place and you're done.

If you have a copy of RAVE, Dave (Incisor) has them available in the shop if not, the writeup and actual process is straightforward.

I think there was a tutorial with pictures on RangeRovers.net, so you might try looking there too.

Cheers,
Iain

[Laurie]

Good video from RWSolutions for disc and pad replacement.

Range Rover MKIII - Replace Brake Pads and Rotors - YouTube

One thing I do with all pad replacements which I didn't see here was; I open the brake fluid reservoir but leave the cap on top, just keep an eye on how much fluid is returned when the pistons are pushed back for the new pads (don't want to spill it over everything)

Laurie

[jx2mad]

Followup question. When calipers removed do you need to clamp the flexible hose to stop piston popping out? Jim

[Homestar]

Followup question. When calipers removed do you need to clamp the flexible hose to stop piston popping out? Jim

No, not unless your planning to push on the brake pedal while the caliper is off - (Don't do this:) )

You will need to push the piston back in before refitting the pads. Easiest way is to crack the bleed nipple and use a pair of vice grips or multi grips to push the pistons in. Don't forget to top up the brake fluid when your all done.

Cheers - Gav:)

[Daniel]

The common sense method of disc pad wear monitoring is done by drop in fluid reservoir level. The pad wear sensor is the expensive way to monitor pad wear as it needs to be replaced once the warning lamp comes on.

In other words never top up your reservoir as when you press the old pads apart to replace with new ones the level is restored. You should not remove the cap when doing this as the reservoir cap has a diaphram built in that prevents air contact with the fluid to prevent moisture absorption.

As with all disc brake systems before doing anything use a lever carefully to prise apart the old pads as far they will go. The rest is simple. Undo the caliper holding bolts and replace the pads using the retaining clips/springs.

[Homestar]

The common sense method of disc pad wear monitoring is done by drop in fluid reservoir level. The pad wear sensor is the expensive way to monitor pad wear as it needs to be replaced once the warning lamp comes on.

In other words never top up your reservoir as when you press the old pads apart to replace with new ones the level is restored. You should not remove the cap when doing this as the reservoir cap has a diaphram built in that prevents air contact with the fluid to prevent moisture absorption.

As with all disc brake systems before doing anything use a lever carefully to prise apart the old pads as far they will go. The rest is simple. Undo the caliper holding bolts and replace the pads using the retaining clips/springs.

Your kidding right? brake wear sensor is $8! The reason I undo the bleed nipple is so that I don't push fluid back through the system the wrong way. Not sure on Rangies, but on other cars I've worked on this can cause damage to check valves and abs components... I could be wrong, but I didn't think the system monitored the brake fluid level - apart from a low level switch - which is usually a worry if they go off - generally not worn brakes, but a leak somewhere...

[Daniel]

Your kidding right? brake wear sensor is $8! The reason I undo the bleed nipple is so that I don't push fluid back through the system the wrong way. Not sure on Rangies, but on other cars I've worked on this can cause damage to check valves and abs components... I could be wrong, but I didn't think the system monitored the brake fluid level - apart from a low level switch - which is usually a worry if they go off - generally not worn brakes, but a leak somewhere...

Kidding? push fluid back the wrong way???? Now you've got to be kidding me!
Just stop and think what you are saying!
You are telling me that every time you brake the fluid goes and pushes the pads against the discs and then cannot retract? If that was the case your pads would last 100km and you would always have your brakes jammed on full strength!
Just goes to show that a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing.

No body has mentioned fluid level monitoring but of course the RR and every other car on the road has to have that by ADR and has so since the 1970's or thereabouts - look at your instrument warning lamps next time you turn your start key to position 2 before cranking - have you never done that?

[Homestar]

Kidding? My first statement about "You must be kidding" was your post about the senosors being expensive. You stated "The pad wear sensor is an expensive way to monitor pad wear" at $8 I don't think that is the case - it's probably one of the cheapest parts of the car.. push fluid back the wrong way???? Now you've got to be kidding me!
Just stop and think what you are saying!
You are telling me that every time you brake the fluid goes and pushes the pads against the discs and then cannot retract? - No, I understand how brakes work, but there is a difference between the fluid coming back when the pads retract, and pushing heaps backwards up the lines in an ABS system like you do pushing the pistons all the way back in during a pad change. Sorry if you don't agree with me, both ways will work - you do it your way and I'll do it mine - but that's the way I was taught by a mechanic & brake specialist - go and tell him he knows **** all about brakes - he has only been making a living off them for the last 18 years... If that was the case your pads would last 100km and you would always have your brakes jammed on full strength!
Just goes to show that a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing. You don't have to get nasty mate - it's just a difference of opinions.:)

No body has mentioned fluid level monitoring but of course the RR and every other car on the road has to have that by ADR and has so since the 1970's or thereabouts - look at your instrument warning lamps next time you turn your start key to position 2 before cranking - have you never done that?

Cheers - Gav

[Homestar]

Just rang my mate up and he directed me to look at a few sites that show exactly what I was saying - on an ABS system, it is not advisable (or even possible on some models) to push the pistons back in without releasing the bleed nipple. He also said that in some factory repair manuals there are warnings not to push the pistons back without releasing the bleed screw.

"Although in pre-ABS brake systems you can merely take the top off the fluid reservoir and if necessary remove some of the potential back-flow as the pistons are pushed back into their wells, in ABS brakes there are valves which prevent this and hence it is suggested that you open the bleeder screws in the calipers and let the fluid come out of there. This will reduce the overall amount of fluid in the brake lines, of course, and it will be necessary to check the amount of loss by inspecting the level in the reservoir, and bringing it back up between the min/max indicator as needed. "

This was one of the first things I found, so I'm not being a numpty here, and my original post regarding moving the pistons back remains valid. So, I'll keep doing it the way I do, and you can keep doing it the way you do - no biggy, but don't make it personal again like that mate - it's not very nice.:)

Cheers - Gav

[Daniel]

Cheers - Gav

Point taken Gav - a little bit of misunderstanding all around - my comment about the cost of the brake sensor is that quite often by the time you get to change the pads the rotors are stuffed (unless done very soon) especially with original LR pads as they are very soft and cannot be relied upon to survive very long at all after the warning lamp is activated. So it is not the cost of the sensors (although that is considerable in Aus) but the cost of replacing rotors plus labour etc.