RoverGauge for 14CUX ECU

[LittleRed]

Has anyone else tried the rovergauge software for the 14CUX ECUs? I downloaded it the other day and I have to say I'm rather impressed. It does require a USB to serial adaptor. I got one from DonTronics for $33.33 incl. shipping. Probably more than I would have liked to pay, but I do have other uses for it.

Basically, I thought it might be useful for diagnostics on my newly rebuilt 3.9. It isn't running as smoothly as I would like, so I though this would be an easy way to check all the sensors that the ECU cares about. As it turns out, they all seem fine, so now I have to look closer at the ignition, but I do still like this software, almost enough to install a permanent computed in my dash.

Download and docs can be found here: rovergauge - Graphical display for data read from the 14CUX engine management system - Google Project Hosting (http://code.google.com/p/rovergauge/)
Here's a screenshot:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/542.jpg

[LittleRed]

In addition to the first post, I found that this software also allows you to manually control the IAC valve. Very useful for testing whether it is functioning properly. I've also posted a quick YouTube video showing it working.
Testing Rover V8 IAC valve stepper with RoverGauge - YouTube

[njz]

This is very cool. Thanks for sharing. :cool:

I'm going to try it out myself.

Was it difficult to build the cable?

How did you connect it to diagnostic plug?

[LittleRed]

No, not too difficult. I got the cable with the header on it, then used a four core phone wire to solder to the diag connector, then to a pin strip that plugs into the USB cable. I did this as a temporary thing until I decide on the best way to permanently wire it. Here are some pics:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/465.jpg
Note the thinner wires (black, blue and red) from the phone cable. I just soldered them onto the existing crimp connectors.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/466.jpg
The wires from the USB that are needed are the black, orange and yellow.

[Grimace]

Excellent, You have just given me something else to do. Thanks

[Grimace]

Well I finally got round to making a cable up and testing this out...

Been over my installation three times and just can't get this to work.

As soon as i attempt to connect to the ECU I hear a relay click twice, before the second click the engine has died and communication is lost (although still connected preventing the vehicle from starting until disconnected)

Not sure where I have gone wrong?


Cheers
Grimace

[Grimace]

Also tested on another vehicle and while that vehicle continued to run it did not connect correctly, switching the red and green communication light and could not give any data or read fault codes...

I did utilise a 390ohm resistor instead of the 400ohm, but I read others had done this with success. Guess first thing to do is get a 400ohm resistor and then make another cable! grrr

[Grimace]

Well I figured it out, woke up wondering if it was a software error and just mow got it working.

Somehow I had not programed the FTDI to remain RXD inverted. Argh why did I not think to double check that yesterday?

Think my little error may have damaged the wifi on the laptop as the networked did drop out after I connected to the second vehicle, now it seems I can no longer connect to wireless, lol.

No worries thou it workin for everything else.

Guess I just want to point out that I had to specifically program the FTDI cable from the FTDI software. Not sure if that's a step that I invented or if it was just obvious to most?

Anyways thanks again, now to get back to sleep!!!

[LittleRed]

Glad to hear you got it working Grimace. I never had to use the software as I use Linux and the instructions differ slightly. I can't imagine why it would affect your wireless though, the two shouldn't be related at all.

You also have to remember to remove the loopback on the connector that comes out of the vehicle. Apparently this simply grounds the line to limit interference, but I can't say I've noticed any difference with leaving it off.

[Grimace]

Cheers again LittleRed, I have been using this with some success over the last few weeks.

It has helped me diagnose faulty MAFs, a fault (more so and oversight) in a Mark Adams supplied chip, Check correct TPS operation. Also check true ECU rpm readings against my tach.
Above all it has allowed me to better understand the running temps of my engine to aid in tuning the Haltech interceptor.

Only minimal task, but all useful!

Now I just need to get a better quality cable as the one I am using is looking pretty beat up already.


Cheers
Grimace

[Grimace]

Update of rovergauge has been released recently.
Not many changes but just thought I would mention it for those interested.
Link to download - Downloads - rovergauge - Graphical display for data read from the 14CUX engine management system - Google Project Hosting (http://code.google.com/p/rovergauge/downloads/list)
Changelog info below;


0.4.1

Added 'idle' light, which will be lit when the ECU is working to maintain idle. Adjacent to this, the current target idle speed is displayed.
Added online help documentation.
Added Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
Updated code that reads the tune number; this is now done on the order of milliseconds and no longer requires reading the entire ROM image.
Removed setting for the maximum value on the speedometer gauge. The max value is now defaulted to 160 (for MPH) or 240 (for km/h and ft/s.)

[jazzaD1]

i wish this was around when i had my v8, it would have made diagnosis of problems heaps easier!

[Dougal]

Well I figured it out, woke up wondering if it was a software error and just mow got it working.

Somehow I had not programed the FTDI to remain RXD inverted. Argh why did I not think to double check that yesterday?

Think my little error may have damaged the wifi on the laptop as the networked did drop out after I connected to the second vehicle, now it seems I can no longer connect to wireless, lol.

No worries thou it workin for everything else.

Guess I just want to point out that I had to specifically program the FTDI cable from the FTDI software. Not sure if that's a step that I invented or if it was just obvious to most?

Anyways thanks again, now to get back to sleep!!!

Have you got an idiots guide for the above FTDI settings Grimace?

I bought a cable from Mark@blitzracing in the UK. I've got the cable communicating with the software (no errors, red light blinking away), but no reply back from the ECU (no green light).

[Grimace]

https://code.google.com/p/libcomm14cux/wiki/HardwareInterface

Hey Dougal,

The above link is where I got my info from originally. If you have any dramas let me know and I will run myself through the install again to refresh my memory and hopefully can help if needed.

[Dougal]

https://code.google.com/p/libcomm14cux/wiki/HardwareInterface

Hey Dougal,

The above link is where I got my info from originally. If you have any dramas let me know and I will run myself through the install again to refresh my memory and hopefully can help if needed.

Thanks Grimace

I did find that later last night and the programming interface tells me the RX signal is inverted as it should be. I'm in contact with Mark who made the cables, but I don't think he's used one on a EAS equipped rangie before (93 in my case). I'm wondering if the same diagnostic connector being used for both EAS and engine is causing a problem they haven't hit before.

Right now I've got the program communicating with the cable fine, the cable is sending (red light flickering as it should), but not getting any response (no green lights).

What vehicle are you running it on?

[Grimace]

I have ran the prog on 1990 through to 1994 (soft dash) rangies.
The soft dash had coils in place of the bags. Not sure that the EAS is the problem.
I need to get in touch with Mark about ordering one of his cables. Mine are so dodgy these days.

[Dougal]

All sorted.

The black TTS connector in the front is EAS. The white TTS buried in the back of the seat base is for the 14CUX.
It's working perfectly now. I just need to find a way to alter the lambda fuel trims without 02 sensors.

[Mercguy]

Just thought I'd update this thread to say all the previous links are now dead.

if you wish to obtain follow this link:

https://github.com/colinbourassa/rovergauge

Cheers

[nat p]

Hay all,

I cant for the life of me remember how to choose the port for the Rovergauge cable, anyone remember?

I cant seem to find the info

Cheers Nat

[DAMINK]

Hay all,

I cant for the life of me remember how to choose the port for the Rovergauge cable, anyone remember?

I cant seem to find the info

Cheers Nat

First you install the drivers for the FTDI plug.
Once you do that then you go to device manager in computer management.
Click on COM & LPT and you should see it in the list.

Even easier i found once the software for the FTDI is installed you should be able to go into the settings of roverguage and the dropdown menu for com port should show up automatically.

Sorry to dig up an oldish reply but im in the process of connecting this myself so decided to answer your question.

[brookvale]

Hi Guys - Just added/installed/connected Rovergauge to my '92 3.9

All went very smoothly and got connected on the first hit; a huge thank you to all the people who put the hard work in to create the software and instructions.

I used the "Gearmo" USB cable option (via Amazon - 5 days from ordering to delivery in NZ - impressive!)
The only minor glitch was with WIN7 on my laptop; failed to find a driver for the Gearmo FTDI converter first time but on unplug then replug, it got it's sh*t together and gave me a COM port :)

Within 10 minutes of using it I found out my coolant sensor was goosed (spare to hand). It was telling the ECU that the engine was cold all the time... So good to have the right tools to hand rather than floundering around trying to guess where the fault lay...
Neil

[drover81]

I've got the Rovergauge software working on my '92 3.9i using the gearmo cable from Amazon (don't trust the cheap FTDI converters). I need a lucas 5 pin plug to make the cable up properly, but overall it's not too hard to get it working.

All working well - cleared the fault codes without issue.

[brookvale]

I've got the Rovergauge software working on my '92 3.9i using the gearmo cable from Amazon (don't trust the cheap FTDI converters). I need a lucas 5 pin plug to make the cable up properly, but overall it's not too hard to get it working.

All working well - cleared the fault codes without issue.

If you can find an old Disco/RRC wiring loom, there are similar plug/sockets to be found in several places. Locate a plug with enough of the pins needed and attach the wires to your USB/gearmo cable.
I didn't have any so used some generic plug/sockets (Jaycar stuff) . Trouble is that I now can't just plug into anyone else's system and help them out :)