Lets get serious

[AnD3rew]

Hi all.

I have had my D3 for just over 3 years now and it has been a gem, no major hassles other than some small warranty niggles with Land Rover who are ******s and this has been a universal experience over 3 Land Rovers.

That aside my warranty has ended so don't have to worry about them anymore.

I have become after some minor outback forays in my standard D3 increasingly enthusiastic about the idea of getting serious in this department. For the last year my plan has been to replace the disco with a Hilux and kit it out. This because the received wisdom is that Land rovers are not reliable enough and if you get in trouble in the bush you need to have a Toyota.

But in the last few weeks I have realized I love my D3 TDV6 and would be very sorry to part with it. It has only done 50,000k and has been totally reliable from a mechanical point of view.

So sorry for the long lead up. 2 questions. Is it a dumb idea to spend a lot of money on a 3 year old D3 to prepare it for extended outback touring?

And how much should I expect to spend. (roughly)
I am thinking
Bull bar with winch and lights
Longranger tank
Kaymar rear bar with wheel and Jerry carriers
Roof rack.
Safari snorkel
UHF radio

I realize I am probably asking the converted but I would be very interested to hear your thoughts.

[chuck]

Andrew

Don't do it.

I sold my D3 in January & bought a Prado Altitude with all the ARB gear.

The Prado does not drive anywhere near as nicely as a D3 although to be fair was more than competent off road.

I now have a D4.

Spend the money on the D3:
17's if you can.
GOE's manual air bag inflation kit.
Rock Sliders.

I regret selling my D3 (someone on this forum bought it)

Cheers

Chuck

[Graeme]

Is a winch necessary for your expected touring, considering having to carry the extra weight all the time?

You might consider a fault code reader.

[discotwinturbo]

With the long range tank is the kaymar bar really necessary to carry extra fuel ? I had a kaymar for 6 years on my patrol and never once did I need to remove one tyre let alone two....and it has been to most remote tracks in australia.

I put a long range tank and a single wheel carrier on (keeping factory bumper). Factory bumper has had a few scrapes, but to me the weight and extra fuel usage was of greater benefit to me.

Brett....

[Tombie]

Hi all.

I have had my D3 for just over 3 years now and it has been a gem, no major hassles other than some small warranty niggles with Land Rover who are ******s and this has been a universal experience over 3 Land Rovers.

That aside my warranty has ended so don't have to worry about them anymore.

I have become after some minor outback forays in my standard D3 increasingly enthusiastic about the idea of getting serious in this department. For the last year my plan has been to replace the disco with a Hilux and kit it out. This because the received wisdom is that Land rovers are not reliable enough and if you get in trouble in the bush you need to have a Toyota.

But in the last few weeks I have realized I love my D3 TDV6 and would be very sorry to part with it. It has only done 50,000k and has been totally reliable from a mechanical point of view.

So sorry for the long lead up. 2 questions. Is it a dumb idea to spend a lot of money on a 3 year old D3 to prepare it for extended outback touring?

And how much should I expect to spend. (roughly)
I am thinking
Bull bar with winch and lights
Longranger tank
Kaymar rear bar with wheel and Jerry carriers
Roof rack.
Safari snorkel
UHF radio

I realize I am probably asking the converted but I would be very interested to hear your thoughts.

Perceived perhaps!!! Reality often bites...

Toyota reliability is NOT what it seems...

And as one who suffers a Hilux (or occasional 70 or 200 series) daily for work... They are horrendously uncomfortable, require constant ongoing parts replacement (racks, tailshafts, CV boots, CVs) and ride like an Amish Buggy...

Stick with the D3... They're not that scary to maintain..

[dullbird]

Is a winch necessary for your expected touring, considering having to carry the extra weight all the time?

You might consider a fault code reader.

I would say after just returning from the cape that I would put a winch right up their in something that should be on a touring vehicle.

Depending on where your going to tour that is I guess. but if you plan on touring on your own and you decide to take an off the beaten track they are invaluable to have if you get stuck....

I would however save weight a bit by putting on a synthetic rope

[Disco_owner]

If you really Enjoy the D3 and the driving Comfort then why change ? I'd keep it and put all the gear on it and enjoy it for outback Touring for next few years , I see a lot of Kitted out D3 's now in my area and it seems a lot of these Folks use their D3's a lot. :cool:

[Redback]

Hi Andrew, just a few things we have experienced with our fully kitted out D4.

Bullbar is a necessity, if only for peace of mind, our last trip to SA we hit an Emu, that was our first animal strike, if it wasn't there, that would have ended our trip, that was day 5 of 20 days away, the bar paid for itself right there.

Winch, you may only use it once, but that once is going to get you out of trouble, on a trip to the High Country, we were stuck on a slippery hill, can't go back, the second vehicle on the trip was behind us, the winch saved us.

Rear bar, Kaymar bars in my opinion are not worth the money you pay for them, just get a wheel carrier from Frontrunner, you'll save money and a bit of weight.

Long Range tank, yes, saves carrying jerries, gives extra Ks and you need them if your towing.

The weight of a bullbar is 45kg and winch (with plasma rope) is 27kg

A kaymar bar weighs 48kg, each carrier weighs 25kg

Longrange tank is 25kg to 30kg.

BUT, the gear is not cheap

Bullbar $1450 from Opposite lock(the cheapest) ARB is $1600, ECB is $2000, LR bar is $4000

Winch, $1050 ours is a VRS from OL

Kaymar bar $1850 and 2 wheel carriers $1300 at the time of purchase, I think the wheel carriers have gone up in price.

Long Range Tank $1600

Got a package deal on installation of everything from OL.

We have not noticed any difference in the car after adding these accessories, fuel economy maybe 1/2 a litre per 100k.

Now, all this talk about not taking Land Rovers to remote areas really gets up my nose, I'm actually sick to bloody death of it.

We bought our D4 to tour the outback and other places, don't care what these halfwits say, this is what we wanted, so they can get stuffed.

Kit it out with what you think you want and need, and get out there.

Baz.

[Tombie]

Now, all this talk about not taking Land Rovers to remote areas really gets up my nose, I'm actually sick to bloody death of it.

We bought our D4 to tour the outback and other places, don't care what these halfwits say, this is what we wanted, so they can get stuffed.

Kit it out with what you think you want and need, and get out there.

Baz.

Probably the best quote you've made on this forum ever Baz ;)

[discotwinturbo]

There is a reason why there is a big service network for Toyotas....quite simply they need it.

Brett....

[Stuart02]

I'm hanging out for my D4 to "mature" and kit it out! The first few years are just familiarisation - you've done the work now enjoy!

Have you actually driven a hilux in anger? Tombie's not exaggerating!

I'd put a second battery and tyres right at the top of my list. I think GOE sell compressor guards which'd have to be good insurance too.

[~Rich~]

Frankly I'd be more scared of taking a kitted up Hilux to some remote places, especially if you plan on towing any sort of trailer.
Many a tale of chassis cracking as they are not heavy enough.
This is particularly true with all brands dual cab utes.

On my last trip http://www.aulro.com/afvb/multi-state-reports/155953-simpson-desert-trip-australia-geographical-centre-july12.html read it especially re the Patrol, on the D3 everyone on it loved the air suspension for three main reasons:

Load the D3 right up and it does not need a suspension kit, it still sits level!

The ability with LLAMS fitted to have more clearance than just about every 50mm lifted 4wd.

The ability to soak up the bumps better than any other brand!
Yes you still feel the bumps but it is not violent and throw you about needing to hold on for grim life in the passenger seat.
Corrogations can be travelled with much more safety & confidence as the vehicle feels "solid" in these conditions.

I've owned 4wds with winches and would not fit another. Travel in convoy, carry a Sat phone when needed. Carry a tirfor or even a long rope & snatch block for slingshot recoveries.

Like Baz said save on the Kaymar rear bar, just fit one that fits under the existing bumper.
Yes to the long range tank too.

Rich

[101RRS]

Carry a tirfor or even a long rope & snatch block for slingshot recoveries.

What is a slingshot recovery?

[stray dingo]

I bought the D4 recently after a Nissan. I turned up at my 4wd club meeting expecting a good natured ragging - but just kept getting told how good they are off road. Even better kitted out.
As for Hilux, we have one in the club, cos no one else wanted to waste money on their constant repairs. The 'unbreakable' status certainly does not apply to current or previous models, but those from many years back.

Stick with the D3 that you know. You'll lose money on any changeover if buying new with no guarantees of anything 'better' off road, especially in stock form. You'll then need to spend just the same on any other vehicle to get it off road ready. They all come out of the factories as 'road cars' effectively. Spend the money on a good fit out!!!

[~Rich~]

What is a slingshot recovery?

A slingshot is very simple, place a tree trunk protector and snatch block up further than the car ( which of course is first in line and unable to proceed further) around a good anchor point, run the rope up to the snatch block and back behind the first car to one behind. The second car reverses back ( or turn around if able) and with the first car driving pulls it forward. The use of more snatch blocks can reduce the load required to assist. This page might help explain the concept:
Block and tackle - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

[AnD3rew]

Thanks everyone, you are all doing a good job of validating the decision I wanted to make:D

Some excellent advice and tips here too.

I think I need to head over to opposite lock for a chat. SWMBO will be delighted.:angel:

[101RRS]

A slingshot is very simple, place a tree trunk protector and snatch block up further than the car ( which of course is first in line and unable to proceed further) around a good anchor point, run the rope up to the snatch block and back behind the first car to one behind. The second car reverses back ( or turn around if able) and with the first car driving pulls it forward. The use of more snatch blocks can reduce the load required to assist. This page might help explain the concept:


thanks - happy with that - took your original point to be something that could be done with one vehicle.

Cheers

garry

[Doug145]

Hi AnD3rew,
We are just returning from our first major touring trip. We bought Chuck's D3 earlier this year with the intention of turning it into our tourer. Our main focus was to cross the Simpson Desert. We did this about a week ago as solo travellers. I am cautious to say this, but we did it easily. And comfortably, So comfortable. We didn't use any of the recover gear we took, not even the maxtrax. We did drop the tyre pressures.
We are just coming up to 9000km for this trip and it will be over 10000km by the time we get home. No bad backs, never got out of the car stiff after the long days. Just great.
We had the car serviced before we left. However the air compressor failed on our way up through the Flinders before starting the Oodnadatta Track and the Simpson. The failure left us with normal height only so was still drivable and allowed us to drive the 500 odd km back to Adelaide where it was replaced under the LR extended warranty at Solitaire Land Rover (excellent service from those guys - I am hoping they keep it up because my rear brake pads have warn out during this trip. I was told before the trip that they had 10k km left. Pretty accurate estimate really! I am hoping I can get them done before returning home). We had some fault messages during the crossing but nothing that stopped us.
I am hoping that I can do a proper write up later including the additions we made to the ones Chuck had started. But I can only say that the D3 is a joy to drive for long distances and is excellent on dirt roads. The best part about the modern electronics is that they alert you to potential mechanical problems before they stop the vehicle completely. Reliability is about good maintenance. The electronics still sits on top of a mechanical system. Keep the mechanical system in order and keep an eye on the electronics. Follow the recommendations from the experienced folks on the forum for trip preparations. I just keep being impressed by the D3.
I didn't put rear wheel carriers or permanent long range fuel tank because there was only about 500kg between kerb weight and the GVM. Every thing you add to the vehicle eats into you load carrying capacity. 500kg isn't much, especially since this has to include all of your passengers. I did add an ARB bullbar and winch.
Cheers,
Doug

[DoctorJ]

Don't be fooled by the whole Toyota is more reliable argument I spent a lot of time researching my next vehicle and after spending a fair bit of time on the pradopoint and hiluxnet forums you will be surprised at how many problems and how common they are ranging from the D4D issues( injectors with a 4k fix, if you get it in time) cracked inner guards, clutches, cracked dashboards and the list goes on needless to say I'm the proud owner of a D3 and I will tell everyone I meet why I chose this vehicle as opposed to a prado/hilux . I'm not buying it as a toorak tractor I'm currently in the process to build mine up with many accessories listed above and plan on using it for what the LR engineers designed it for.

Cheers
Julian

[DiscoWeb]

Hi all.

Is it a dumb idea to spend a lot of money on a 3 year old D3 to prepare it for extended outback touring?

And how much should I expect to spend. (roughly)

Longranger tank
Kaymar rear bar with wheel and Jerry carriers
Roof rack.
Safari snorkel
UHF radio

I realize I am probably asking the converted but I would be very interested to hear your thoughts.

AnD3rew,

No it is not a dumb idea !



Sounds like the list looks something like:

1. Front Bar (and maybe a winch)
2. good set of roof racks with and basket/expidition rack set up;
3. goods set of L/T tires on 17 in rims;
4. UHF - these are petty easy
5. Llams
6. Some forme of extended range fuel storage or tank.

And a dose of reality that not all LR are unreliable and not all Toyotas are unbreakable !

Based on Redbacks post, circa 125 kg for the rear bar and wheel carrier and somewhere close to $5,000 seems excessive.

There are some very neat BOAB poly storage solutions that can fit to foot wells and or behind seats etc, I am sure one member hear had some shots of a very well sorted set up that added 50 or 80 lt at what would be a fraction of the cost and is removable and ways next to nothing.

Allows you to keep the spare where it is and with a decent set of racks throw one up top.

Good luck and enjoy.

George

[AnD3rew]

AnD3rew,

No it is not a dumb idea !



Sounds like the list looks something like:

1. Front Bar (and maybe a winch)
2. good set of roof racks with and basket/expidition rack set up;
3. goods set of L/T tires on 17 in rims;
4. UHF - these are petty easy
5. Llams
6. Some forme of extended range fuel storage or tank.

And a dose of reality that not all LR are unreliable and not all Toyotas are unbreakable !

Based on Redbacks post, circa 125 kg for the rear bar and wheel carrier and somewhere close to $5,000 seems excessive.

There are some very neat BOAB poly storage solutions that can fit to foot wells and or behind seats etc, I am sure one member hear had some shots of a very well sorted set up that added 50 or 80 lt at what would be a fraction of the cost and is removable and ways next to nothing.

Allows you to keep the spare where it is and with a decent set of racks throw one up top.

Good luck and enjoy.

George


Thanks, I actually hate the spare tyre where it is and have already buggered a stupidly designed tyre winch so am happy to relocate it, but the other option without replacing the full bar looks good and itsq true with an extra tank you probably don't need the extra Jerry.

I will have two teenagers with me so don't want to fill wheel wells with tanks and don't like the idea of fuel in the cabin in any case.

Agreed Llams is necessary, discovered that on my last western QLD, NSW trip, lots of good roads which can easily be travelled at 80kph or above, but have a mound in the middle.

I do want a winch because we often travel alone. I am not massively worried about the weight because will probably get a camper trailer, that's the attraction of not buying a new Disco but staying with the old one is that it allows me to spend the upgrade money on mods and a trailer.

How important is it to go to 17"s do you think? I have 18"s with GG AT2 tyres and have been pretty happy so far.

[Redback]

Thanks, I actually hate the spare tyre where it is and have already buggered a stupidly designed tyre winch so am happy to relocate it, but the other option without replacing the full bar looks good and itsq true with an extra tank you probably don't need the extra Jerry.

I will have two teenagers with me so don't want to fill wheel wells with tanks and don't like the idea of fuel in the cabin in any case.

Agreed Llams is necessary, discovered that on my last western QLD, NSW trip, lots of good roads which can easily be travelled at 80kph or above, but have a mound in the middle.

I do want a winch because we often travel alone. I am not massively worried about the weight because will probably get a camper trailer, that's the attraction of not buying a new Disco but staying with the old one is that it allows me to spend the upgrade money on mods and a trailer.

How important is it to go to 17"s do you think? I have 18"s with GG AT2 tyres and have been pretty happy so far.

Your better off with just the carrier if you want to save some dollars and weight, if you don't need the rear bar, no reason to waste your money on one.

As for 17"rims, what this does is give a wider range of tyres to select from and also more options when in remote areas, 18" tyres aren't carried in great numbers in country towns and there's a greater chance they don't carry 18s at all, also you can get tyres in LT(Light Truck)construction with 17" rims, in Australia all 18" tyres are not light truck, so you have a greater chance of getting a puncture, especially if you drop your tyre pressures when on dirt roads.

Baz.

[101RRS]

in Australia all 18" tyres are not light truck,

18" BFG ATs are LT.

[Tote]

My D3 has done the Simpson Desert west - east via Mt dare and up the Hay river track as well as a trip to Darwin via the Oodnadatta track, the High Country, Fraser Island and assorted other locations as well as being a daily driver. It now has over 200,000Km on it and has not had failures on any of these trips. My equipment list is below:

ARB bullbar
ALDI winch
Factory RAI
short Windcheetah roofrack with spare tyre carrier
Dolium rear door ladder
Long Ranger Fuel tank
Intelligent 4x4 wheel carrier
Home made rack and cargo barrier with a fridge slide
Land Rover headrest TV screens fed by a WDTV media platyer and USB Hard drive
Lightforce XGT lights
Traxide Dual Battery system with Optima yellow top battery
Foxwing
40 Litre footwell water tank that can sit behind the front seats
General Grabber 18" AT2 tyres on standard rims with a second spare the same
LLAMS height control
ARB compressor mounted under the bonnet
ICOM IC440 UHF

The list above is the culmination of the bits we added for the Simpson trip and there isnt much else I will do to the vehicle. As the kids are growing I'll probably redesign the cargo barrier and fridge frame and rebuild it in aluminium so that it incorporates a different water tank but that is a slowtime project.
The only other suggestion have is go and get your transmission serviced and keep the oil changes up to it as I had to replace mine prior to the simpson trip due to torque converter failure. There is plenty of info on here about that though.

Before I fitted the winch and the extra tank in the Vic high country.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y127/toteau/IMG_3427.jpg

Regards,
Tote

[AnD3rew]

18" BFG ATs are LT.


General Grabbersand Pirelli Scorpion ATR are as well from my understanding.

[101RRS]

GGs are not LT.

However does it matter - a passenger grade tyre with a load rating of say 120 will be similar in strength to an LT with a load rating of 120.

The difference is that most passenger tyres in the sizes we are interested in will have a rating of around 110-112 where most LTs in similar sizes will have a rating of around 120.

I am not sure that in these days the difference between the two is not as great as it used to be in days gone by.

Garry

[Tote]

As an aside with 180,000 on two and a half sets of AT2 GGs I have had three punctures, one on the Hay river in the tread was patched with a plug, coincedently the same tyre was punctured in the sidewall on an outcrop of vertically tilted shale on our property a couple of months later. The only other puncture has been from a tek screw which was repaired.

Regards,
Tote

[Tombie]

18" BFG ATs are LT.

Only in 31.5" (LT265/65R18)

[Redback]

General Grabbersand Pirelli Scorpion ATR are as well from my understanding.

Neither are LT, how much are BFGs in 18" though:o

I had 3 punchures in 2 days with my GG AT2s, they have a soft spot just below the tread line in the sidewall.

Still think 17s will give a greater chance of getting a replacement in remote areas, but it's your choice, I'm only given you my opinion.

Baz.

[AnD3rew]

Neither are LT, how much are BFGs in 18" though:o

I had 3 punchures in 2 days with my GG AT2s, they have a soft spot just below the tread line in the sidewall.

Still think 17s will give a greater chance of getting a replacement in remote areas, but it's your choice, I'm only given you my opinion.

Baz.

I value the opinions that's why I asked. Thank you :D

[jonesy63]

I just arrived home yesterday, after a 6 week trip to Flinders, Oodnadatta track, Painted Desert, Uluru, Kakadu (incl. Jim Jim Falls), Darwin, then over the Gibb River Road and Mitchell Plateau (Mitchell Falls), then to Broome. Came home the highway, with offroad jaunts to Wolfe Creek (300km of Tanami track), Bungle Bungles, etc.

My D4 2.7 performed fantastic - air suspension soaked up corrugations and the LT245/70R17 BFG KM2 were fantasic, as usual.

I took:
1) one jerry can - which I only needed twice - so I could get the range to make it to my fuel card garages :) But I still had to pay cash for diesel at Drysdale and Mount Barnett.
2) one spare carcass on roof rack and spare in usual location.
3) home made storage rack and fridge.
4) snatch strap, shackles, hydraulic jack, etc - unused.
5) two Rhino roof baskets - long one for Oztent/air mattress and short one for chairs and tyre.
6) Safari snorkel
7) Icom IC440N UHF radio and 6.6dB antenna mounted on roof rack.

Just about 16,000km in total - and do back up what Baz said earlier re bull bar. While going into the Flinders, I had a wallaby commit suicide. I'll be getting a bull bar asap. Damage count to driver's side: plastic bumper skin, parking sensors, headlight washer, fog light, wheel arch and inner guard. Cable ties held it together for the remainder of the trip. Lucky for me it was a fast wallaby and main hit was to the steel bar behind the plastic. Unlucky for the wallaby - sliced in half. :angel: On the second day of the trip - it could have been the end of the holiday - had it been a slow wallaby.

Cheers,
Rob

[Graeme]

How much noise do you hear from those tyres on sealed roads, especially on long travel days? I have 1 and have thought about getting another 3 but hesitant due to possible noise.

[NavyDiver]

Hi all.
It has only done 50,000k and has been totally reliable from a mechanical point of view.

2 questions. Is it a dumb idea to spend a lot of money on a 3 year old D3 to prepare it for extended outback touring?

And how much should I expect to spend. (roughly)
I am thinking
Bull bar with winch and lights
Longranger tank
Kaymar rear bar with wheel and Jerry carriers
Roof rack.
Safari snorkel
UHF radio


My D3 has your list less Kaymar rear bar. Rear wheel carier on OEM rear bar, sliders and dual battery tanks. Lights are interesting. HID on our D3s range is great. A good flood from a LED on top of your roof rack if you can or on the bar allows you to see roos and bigger critters well of to the side where the dark would otherwise put them in a blind spot if they what a swift death.:( Cows, camels and dingos all avoided on a long night run up the oodnadatta track. 17 inch rims if you can, LLAMS if you get wet rock hopping or realy dirty. If you put a spare on top check the hight of your garage:wasntme: VMS for navigation and put a reversing camera on it.


1/4 of a million on mine. I am still happy to spend a little if needed to keep it mickey mouse to allow me to take her far and wide. Mates hilux is costing a packet to fix to keep running, it also drives like a cow and your bum would not like the ride or the seats after a long drive after yours.

My must do tip is to look for LED lights bulbs for the Brake lights reversing and tail lights now before you think your car is falling to bits:D see Richs post http://www.aulro.com/afvb/1640875-post5.html then have some fun.

[jonesy63]

How much noise do you hear from those tyres on sealed roads, especially on long travel days? I have 1 and have thought about getting another 3 but hesitant due to possible noise.

They would be the quietest MT tyre I've ever heard. The most noise is at 40-60km/h, and then it gets quieter, the faster you go. NT now has 130 km/h speed limits... but I did go a little faster than that - to overtake some road trains. :wasntme::angel: Rated to 160 km/h, so felt safe doing so. :cool:

[Redback]

They would be the quietest MT tyre I've ever heard. The most noise is at 40-60km/h, and then it gets quieter, the faster you go. NT now has 130 km/h speed limits... but I did go a little faster than that - to overtake some road trains. :wasntme::angel: Rated to 160 km/h, so felt safe doing so. :cool:

This is the tyre we will be getting next, they were brilliant on our old D2, hard to believe how quiet they really are.

Sounds like you had a great trip Rob, buggar about the damage though, we hit an Emu in the Gawler Ranges on day 5 of our trip, hit him dead centre of the bullbar, this was the damage.

Bent number plate
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Moved the spottie
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Only down side, I had to go back and put it out of it's misery:(

I can't imagine the damage if we didn't have the bullbar:o also a big thumbs up for the Lightforce spotties, not a mark on it.

I'll be looking forward to your report Rob:D

Baz.

[Gords]

Agreed Llams is necessary, discovered that on my last western QLD, NSW trip, lots of good roads which can easily be travelled at 80kph or above, but have a mound in the middle.


Don't forget about the GOE shortened rods! I've got them on my D3 and reckon they're great!!! Cheap, quick and easy to swap between heights and rods (for servicing if under warantee still), leaves you with spare rods which people take bush anyway, hassle free!

Both vendors are on here and both have great products, just making sure you're aware of both options.

With repsect to the wheel sizes I take bush 18's with 2 complete spare rims & wheels and a third tyre carcase incase the correct tyre size is unavailable in remote areas (carried on the rhino tray). This means that you aren't waiting on any tyres to be shipped in.

Get out there and use your D3 for what it was built for... I do and I love it, unfortunately too many of these awesome vehicles end up just driving to and from soccer practice, without even mounting a kerb :D!

[DiscoWeb]

AnD3rew,

One other thing that just sprung to mind and I believe is an absolute necessity if you are doing long distance touring is a cargo barrier, allows you to stack the back with kit in safety.

Good luck with all the thoughts and options.

george

[AnD3rew]

AnD3rew,

One other thing that just sprung to mind and I believe is an absolute necessity if you are doing long distance touring is a cargo barrier, allows you to stack the back with kit in safety.

Good luck with all the thoughts and options.

george

Yeah thanks was thinking about that, I assume most people put Milford in, how easy are they to get in and out, I do use my third row seats from time to time around town. Is it practical to just put the barrier in for trips?

Also roof racks, what do people recommend, I have seen a few say they are using rhino, any other recommendations?

[lpj]

... I do and I love it, unfortunately too many of these awesome vehicles end up just driving to and from soccer practice, without even mounting a kerb :D![/QUOTE]

Of course the upside is that you can buy good second hand D3's & 4's at a substantial discount, knowing that they have had no hard work at all! Suits me;)

[jon3950]

Yeah thanks was thinking about that, I assume most people put Milford in, how easy are they to get in and out, I do use my third row seats from time to time around town. Is it practical to just put the barrier in for trips?

Also roof racks, what do people recommend, I have seen a few say they are using rhino, any other recommendations?

I have a genuine Land Rover barrier, made by Hayman Reese. Easy to fit and I remove it whenever its not needed. Very similar in style to a Milford, though Milford didn't make one for the D3 at the time.

Other recommendation for a roof rack is the Wind Cheetah from Opposite Lock.

Cheers,
Jon

[Stuart02]

I /think/ Black Widow can do an upper-half barrier to go with their drawers, which would make much better use of space in the lower half. If you have the budget of course.

[Banjo_pluker]

AnD3rew,

One other thing that just sprung to mind and I believe is an absolute necessity if you are doing long distance touring is a cargo barrier, allows you to stack the back with kit in safety.

Good luck with all the thoughts and options.

george

Yes I defiantly second that. Inlaws rolled their defender years ago and there was a large dint in the cargo barrier were the gas bottle had hit the cargo barrier right were his head was.

[AnD3rew]

Ok just took my first steps, went out to Davis and bought a Llams and a Mitch hitch, (good Price btw), as well as quotes for the other stuff. And have ordered a TX3540 and aerial bundle from prestigecom.

Also went out to OL at Brookvale and have them quoting on a big bundle of stuff including:

Winch bar with VRS 9500lb winch and synth rope. (is that big enough?)
Safari snorkel
Brown Davis 120lt aux tank.
Dolium spare wheel carrier
Dual battery kit and wiring
Cargo barrier
Rhino platform roof rack with spare wheel carrier and shovel bracket
Batwing awning

I am very excited

A couple more questions

What about the jack?
My understanding is that the OEM one is pretty crap, I think the bar will have highlift points on it, can you use the mitchhitch as a high lift point for the rears.
What do you guys do? Aftermarket hydraulic? Airbag? Or is the OEM one okay.

[AnD3rew]

Ok just took my first steps, went out to Davis and bought a Llams and a Mitch hitch, (good Price btw), as well as quotes for the other stuff. And have ordered a TX3540 and aerial bundle from prestigecom.

Also went out to OL at Brookvale and have them quoting on a big bundle of stuff including:

Winch bar with VRS 9500lb winch and synth rope. (is that big enough?)
Safari snorkel
Brown Davis 120lt aux tank.
Dolium spare wheel carrier
Dual battery kit and wiring
Cargo barrier
Rhino platform roof rack with spare wheel carrier and shovel bracket
Batwing awning

I am very excited

A couple more questions

What about the jack?
My understanding is that the OEM one is pretty crap, I think the bar will have highlift points on it, can you use the mitchhitch as a high lift point for the rears.
What do you guys do? Aftermarket hydraulic? Airbag? Or is the OEM one okay.

Also the Davis guys were pretty keen to sell me a water watch system which is a water trap and alarm system for the fuel line at over a grand and an auto transmission cooler also at over a grand.

Are these really necessary? I might be towing a camper trailer but not any large vans or boats.

[Tombie]

Also went out to OL at Brookvale and have them quoting on a big bundle of stuff including:

Winch bar with VRS 9500lb winch and synth rope. (is that big enough? YES)
Safari snorkel Nice
Brown Davis 120lt aux tank. Consider Long Range Automotive or Long Ranger before BD any day...
Dolium spare wheel carrier These can be 'hit and miss' with reverse sensors, 4x4DE do a D3 specific unit which wont mess the sensors.
Dual battery kit and wiring - Not from OL... ONLY Traxide... The only LR approved unit...
Cargo barrier Good idea ;)
Rhino platform roof rack with spare wheel carrier and shovel bracket Nice :)
Batwing awning Very nice :cool:

Also the Davis guys were pretty keen to sell me a water watch system which is a water trap and alarm system for the fuel line at over a grand and an auto transmission cooler also at over a grand. Don't bother... And the fact they tried to stitch you up on unnecessary gear - I'd walk away...

Are these really necessary? No I might be towing a camper trailer but not any large vans or boats. Factory cooler is more than capable

Vehicle is going to look great! And go great too...

[AnD3rew]

Excellent, thanks for the feedback on that.

[jonesy63]

I change wheels over at home with a trolley jack and have bought a hydraulic bottle jack to use in the field, whenever that happens.

I did use the standard jack on my previous D3 to change the wheels - I used it on 3 wheels and it was buggered after that! What a useless piece of excrement it is.

[Stuart02]

Yeah that jack nearly made me cry. And that was out the front of my house.
One suggestion I liked was highlift or exhaust jack and a stand for safety, tho that's a bit of kit to lug every day...

OL's dual battery system quote was through the roof - I'm sure it works but like Tombie says, Traxide. It's a ripper.

[ADMIRAL]

Dual battery kit and wiring - Not from OL... ONLY Traxide... The only LR approved unit...



I have Traxide too.....but it is not LR approved. I doubt you will get LR to officially approve anything they don't manufacture themselves.

[AnD3rew]

OL have quoted me $1100 to supply and fit a dual battery system which includes the electronics to shut off the cranking battery to preserve it and also includes upgrading the wiring to the existing accessory sockets to allow them to draw ore amps and connect them directly to the aux battery.

I spoke with their electrician and he seemed very good. Other than price what is wrong with the OL system and why is Traxide better?

[Tombie]

OL have quoted me $1100 to supply and fit a dual battery system which includes the electronics to shut off the cranking battery to preserve it and also includes upgrading the wiring to the existing accessory sockets to allow them to draw ore amps and connect them directly to the aux battery.

I spoke with their electrician and he seemed very good. Other than price what is wrong with the OL system and why is Traxide better?

I have spoken to Tim and he should be along to help you shortly...

Basically, Traxide kits are designed to fit exactly into a D3 / D4 / RRS depending on what flavour you order...

They come with everything you need to D-I-Y and its EASY.....

They're also designed to work with modern charging systems (where alternators turn voltage up and down to their control) and give additional benefits of improved Aux capacity etc...

Drivesafe (Tim) will add more I'm sure...

[Tombie]

In the meantime - Look here:

D3 (http://www.traxide.com.au/D3_4_Index/D3-4_DBS.html)

[Tombie]

Not to mention... D3 specific kit with 2 rear sockets... $340.00

Add a battery and a couple of hours and your done!

[drivesafe]

Thanks Mike ( Tombie ) and I lead you astray.

Hi Admiral and correct they have not approved my isolators but don’t blame Mike for his post, this was my blue.

A clarifying explanation.

When the D3 first came on the market, because it was the first vehicle ( so was Jag ) to have low operating voltages, most of the isolators on the market were causing incompatibility problems with the D3’s voltage monitoring.

This lead to things like Limp Home Mode being activated when there were no problems and so on.

At the time, there were a number of LRA people who were regulars on this form. They noticed my gear was being installed in D3s without any problems being reported.

Also at that time, I was NOT aware of the low operating voltage but even if I had know, they do not effect the way my isolators work ( different operating procedures to any other type of isolator ) and because of the way my isolators keep the cranking and auxiliary battery voltages at similar level, there were no incompatibility problems being caused with the D3s.

The then head of LRA’s Maintenance Training Section contacted me and explained the problems being caused by other isolators and asked if I could supply an isolator, set to their specs so they could test it in a D3.

LRA supplied me with the D3 operating info and the specs they wanted test with.

I supplied them with a couple of isolators set to their specs and waited.

Some three or so months later, I received an E-mail stating that my isolators worked with the D3’s operating system and caused no problems and that this information had been forwarded on to Solihull.

I WRONGLY took this E-mail to be an approval and posted such up on my web site. I was politely informed a short time after this that the E-mail was not an approval but simply confirmation that my isolator did NOT effect the operation of D3s.

Shortly after this, I bought my wife a D3 and needless to say, my dual battery system was installed soon there after.

I changed all my original setting to the LRA levels, primarily because other vehicles have now come on the market with low operating voltage levels and the lower cut-in level, as requested by LRA, works with these other vehicles.

As side benefit form using my isolators.

I have been manufacturing the SC80 for over 20 years and the way they work has had customers continually informing me that they not only get longer operating lives from their auxiliary/house batteries but the cranking batteries also last longer.

It was obvious that the longer cranking battery life span was a direct result of fitting my isolator, but I could never work out why.

That is until I started getting feed back from D3 customers who had the info screens and told me that before having one of my dual battery systems fitted, they were getting regular Low Battery Warnings but within 1 to 3 weeks of fitting my system, the messages stopped.

First time I heard this I didn’t give it much thought but then I started getting it from customer after customer and not just here in Australia.

Then the penny dropped and I did some testing.

What was happening is that the vehicle is started and then the cranking battery is recharged.

BUT, all batteries, while they can be “nearly” fully charge in a short time, it actually takes quite a long time to FULLY RECHARGE the battery.

With my system, because the isolator keeps the cranking battery and the auxiliary battery connected long after the ignition is turned off, ( all other brands of isolators disconnect when the ignition is turned off or shortly thereafter ) and because the auxiliary battery, when not being used to run accessories, is always in a higher state of charge, the auxiliary battery will back discharge into the cranking battery.

This has the effect that in as little as 1 week, the cranking batteries settled state of charge, would rise and this is why the messages stopped and because the cranking battery is kept in a higher state of charge, this is why cranking batteries last longer when one of my system is installed.

While this has been happening for the 20+ years I have been making the SC80, it is now more beneficial since the introduction of Calcium/Calcium batteries. As fitted to LRs.

While this works with any type of auxiliary battery, the results seem to be better and quicker when the auxiliary battery is an Optima ( or similar ).

Now as much as I would like to claim I designed my isolators to specifically give this benefit, it’s not so, the “FEATURE” is simply an unplanned beneficial spinoff from the way my isolators are designed to work.

But this “feature” is now one of the primary benefits of fitting one of my isolators, that is not available with any other brand of isolator.

[AnD3rew]

Ok I am convinced. I will only go Traxide.

[gghaggis]

Ok I am convinced. I will only go Traxide.
Good choice ;)

Cheers,

Gordon

[drivesafe]

Ok I am convinced.

Hi Andrew and sorry for the long winded reply but Mike had posted up some misinformation but not misinformation of his own doing, misinformation of mine and I just wanted clear Mike’s “GOOD” name. :angel: :angel: :angel: :angel:

[jon3950]

Ok I am convinced. I will only go Traxide.

You won't regret it. With a D4 now on the way I'll soon be ordering my third one. I have always run them with an Optima yellow top and it has proved to be a very reliable set-up.

Cheers,
Jon

[sniegy]

You won't regret it. With a D4 now on the way I'll soon be ordering my third one. I have always run them with an Optima yellow top and it has proved to be a very reliable set-up.

Cheers,
Jon

I will agree with Jon,
I too have run them in most of my Disco's & this is my 3rd unit. Now using the USI160. (previously SC80 & before that the SC40) Never had any issues.
Optima Yellow top D34's are a great all round battery.

Cheers.

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