Gearbox Transfer Case Rebuild

[CraigE]

As I am thinking of pulling out the engine gearbox to do head gasket, fix engine and gearbox/trans case leaks, clutch, is it a stretch to replace bearings in both and maybe synchros in the r380 while it is out. The box does seem a little notchy at times. I have thought about a recon, but at $3000 odd I would consider having a crack at rebuilding.

[langy]

Depends on how far you want to go - given that you're giving the engine a medium re-build, then it stands to reason to do the same to the GB & TC - it takes a fair bit of press work to do a total rebuild.

You can do front and rear seals and the rear main/layshaft bearings without upsetting the rest of the gearbox. Also, I found that a new oil pump ($80) has given my R380 a new lease on life. Further, a set of spider gear washers and new input /output/intermediate bearings ( and seals ) does wonders with the LT230.

I did all this stuff without a press - the only hard part was removing the collar from the GB output shaft.

[CraigE]

I think I may just get the bearing and seal kit and work from there if I find anything else when out. I do have a 12 tonne press and am going to get a decent set of bearing pullers for Fathers day.
I may not even need to do the head gasket, but as I have had 2 occasions where the coolant level has dropped by 500ml for no real reason, may replace it and check the dowels as I do not know if it still has the plastic ones.
At 180,000kms probably ready for a clutch replacement anyway.
Going to put a larger sump pan on the LT230 as well.

[justinc]

Craig, it is a safe bet that A) your head gasket is leaking, and B) there are plastic dowels in there, unless somebody has already replaced them with steel.
With The transmission, I would also look at replacing the 5th gear support bearings etc it is a very easy job just remove the extension housing and there they are :)
( Langy already mentions this, above) but I would stop short of synchros and a full strip down eetc as you will need to do some careful measuring and may require selectable shim sets etc etc . It is all available from ashcrofts, but is a lot more work for you. If the shifting is a little baulky, but not crunching as such, then this is almost as they were from new, you could do all that work and it will STILL feel like that :(
And my advice if you are going to do the clutch, stick with a genuine flywheel and clutch kit, (Not bought from LR of course :0 )

JC

[LandyAndy]

Craig
Simple way to check that coolant loss.
Mine was the same,I smelt it.
Grab a 700ml plastic flavoured milk container and secure it to the overflow outlet on the expension tank.
Mine was only blowing small amounts but it was out of the ordinary coolant usage,it was always in the catch bottle.
I had no need to get any machining done as the problem was sorted before it was an issue.
Andrew

[Jode]

Craig, I presume that you'll either replace the clutch fork with a reinforced one, or weld a patch onto your fork to ensure that the slave cyl rod won't push through it (a common fault - one sometimes wonders what the LR engineers think about when 'upgrading' models).

[Jode]

Also, I found that a new oil pump ($80) has given my R380 a new lease on life.
Langy, did you replace the standard pump fit to the extension housing or did you fit an after-market external pump? If an external pump, I'd be keen to learn about it - can you provide product info?

Thanks.

[djam1]

A TD5 had an upgraded cast fork not the cheap tin that the 300TDI had maybe they were thinking


Craig, I presume that you'll either replace the clutch fork with a reinforced one, or weld a patch onto your fork to ensure that the slave cyl rod won't push through it (a common fault - one sometimes wonders what the LR engineers think about when 'upgrading' models).

[langy]

For Mr J - it was a replacement for the standard internal shaft driven device in the extension housing. (Also fitted a new oil feed ring). And, for both Mr J and Mr E -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/888.jpg

This is the simple add on to prevent pivot 'push through' for the 300tdi.

[DeanoH]

....................................This is the simple add on to prevent push rod 'push through' for the 300tdi.

Doesn't the push rod go on the LHS of the fork (in pic) and the re-inforced bit is over the pivot point ?:confused:

Having just replaced the clutch assembly (300tdi/r380/LT230) I'm now concerned that the gearbox input bearing is too noisy. :(

How big is this job ? At least the GB/TC will be easier to remove for a second time (write a note, the glass is always half full, the glass is always half full...............). :D:(

Also taking the slop out of the centre diff would be a bonus, fortunately the TC gear/shaft are OK (about 20 thou. slop).

Craig, I found that adjusting the springs on top of the gearbox made the shift (to/from 3rd and 4th) a lot better. I originally thought syncro rings but was just adjustment of the gear stick centreing springs. :)

What would be the 'sensible' things to do with the TC/GB out. ?

For me it's GB input bearing & seal, centre diff side gear washers. What else ? I'd hate to have to pull the GB/TC out for a third time :(:eek:.

Deano:)

[langy]

Oops - my bad - I should have said 'pivot point push through' as the fix pictured was after I put a hole in the middle of my old fork - not the push rod itself. ( A Coopers LR mod )