130 Suspension travel

[strangy]

My 130 DC has reached reassembly time and suspension is coming up.

Having done a search I have found a number of threads on shocks and springs, but am needing a bit more help.
Some actual opinions/ experience, on kit/ packages/ suppliers re: suspension lift and travel/articulation please.

I had dealings with an OME 40mm lift kit for a D2 and found that while it lifted the truck, the shocks actually had no more travel than the OEM units, so actually reduced the travel by 40mm.with the pox articulation that followed.
With this and other issues, I wont even look at OME stuff again.
Suspension Stuff sorted a nice package for the D2 so will be talking to them anyway.

I dont want to order in a kit or components that wont/cant do as advertised and I cant see, touch, measure anywhere in Alice so rely heavily on sellers actually knowing and telling the facts rather than regurgitating company claims.

It will often run around town and local tracks empty but has a 450kg camper pod for the rest of the time. Helper springs wont be going back in but will be replaced with Polyairs.

With plenty of spring options, I m not really stuck here. But suggestions welcome.
I wont be getting Koni raids or Bilsteins (just cant afford them),
so...
what shocks have folks found to genuinely have a longer travel to match +50mm springs.
I dont mind changing shock mounts if necessary.

I am leaning toward the Terrafirma units, but as above, dont want to stuff around.

Has anyone fitted spring isolators to their Defender has it reduced some NVH? stop laughing:p

cheers

[DeanoH]

Have used Pedders foam cell shocks on the Classic, Troopy and on Kayes D2a. They are a brilliant shock though expensive. The only caveat I'll give is look at the shocker mount and make sure it's up to the task.The ones, both front and rear, on the D2a failed within 12 months of 'easy' travel. The rear shockers in particular had this crappy mounting bar thing, nothing like the big Rover eyes on the originals.
Got them at the tyre place next to the BP in Alice, cost me over $1K fitted, waste of money. :(
The point I'm making is make sure the mount is up to standard as well as the shock itself.

Deano :)

[isuzutoo-eh]

I'm a bit of a talker without experience on this subject...so with that warning I have gone for the Gwyn Lewis challenge parts to raise the upper mounts, they are extremely well made but being galvanised aren't shiny bling like the terrafirma copies.
I haven't selected shocks yet so all the bits sit in a box not on the vehicle...

Wayne/Lowranger runs the Gwyn Lewis kit with OME shocks on his 110, the flex and balance is very good, the shocks are designed for a lifted toyota 80 series and are same front and rear.

[newhue]

Strange, I know your not keen on OME, but thay are good for the money. I think the key is don't use what they recommend for a LR. It's a cruiser shock that works for lifted defenders but I don't know the part number.

[Nick S]

Have a look a Shock Warehouse in the US, I got 4 Bilstein 7100 long travel remote resevoir shocks for $180 each. You can determine the length you need as well as the damping rate, I would suggest the 400/100 rate for the rears and the next one down for the fronts. Just remember that these shocks have got eye mounts with Heim joints therefore you would need pin to eye converters on the front mounts and lower rear mounts. I changed my upper mounts to RTE ones. Also if you do get these shocks ask for urathane inserts instead of the Heims - much better for long life. Overall these have been the best shocks I have ever had!!
Nick

[austastar]

Hi,
Have you looked at AirBagMan. They do Air springs and shocks for the Defender 130.

I'm going to get a set a$ $oon a$ Po$$ible.

cheers

[jordsvin]

Has anyone fitted spring isolators to their Defender has it reduced some NVH? stop laughing:p
cheers

Yep, and I would fit them again when the springs were out.
The fronts (RBC100111) made more of a difference than the rears (ANR2938).
It did reduce some thrumming in the cab on smooth roads.
Every little helps.
I had the isolators on the top only.

& I'll second Gwyn Lewis gear if you want more travel.
Deal with him direct, his prices are lower than via the Ebay shop.
Just remember the brake lines.

HTH,

Andy

[lambrover]

I have terrafirma +5 kit in my 130. But I run 3inch lift and all the other mods required for that height. As mentioned there is nothing wrong with ARB stuff, you just can't run what what they they suggest. The lifted cruiser shocks have about 11 inch travel.

[strangy]

Hi,
Have you looked at AirBagMan. They do Air springs and shocks for the Defender 130.

I'm going to get a set a$ $oon a$ Po$$ible.

cheers

Yes, and have varying feelings about this. Mainly $. My D2 has the SLS and it still impresses me. Having a similar system on the 130 would be nice, but probably more a wish at the moment.
Some concerns about management sytem reliability, but have nothing to base this on.
Given its all in pieces it is the ideal time to bite the bullet. Wouldnt be going for air up front though.

cheers

[frantic]

The shock for the gwyn lewis set up is the OME 60070L which has 11.7 in travel you could also look at billies which are a great shock but have a ring mount , OME 60070L have pins at both ends.

[wilga]

will be doing the suspension in my 130 shortly and have checked out gwyns kits , just wanting info on road handling with the kit installed , looks like it will be perfect for bush work

[muzza99]

im running tough dog big bore 40mm adjustables in the front and back, ive got the heavy in the front and 500 kg con coil in the rear with 38mm front and rear coil spacers and a 2in drop top shock mount and the big one i do recomend for all lifted defenders is a 3 deg radis and trailing arms from terra firma, with that set up and no say bars in the rear im popping my rear coils out with the flex, and im trying and idea of dropping my rear say bar mount a further 40mm on the chassis, i hope this helps you

[strangy]

Well.... after a few emails to Gwyn Lewis it seems I'll be going with the apparent competition.... the terrafirma +2 Shock Turrets and Rear mounts.
I was hoping to support Gwyn but with 210gbp shipping for mounts and rear arms (no springs or shocks or front arms) just made things cheaper and easier in Oz, who would of thought:eek:

Also I'm sure better minds than mine have contemplated the rear arms, but,.........I was measuring the front radius arms against the rears. I get 40mm difference, with the front being longer. Has anyone just cut the extra mount from the front arms giving avery strong rear arm and then made new brackets for the A arm to bring the pinion angle back(or A arm Mod)? I havnt gone and measured the arc of travel but 40mm, on face value doesnt seem much to go back and would probably be less with a lift.
Thoughts?

cheers

[LowRanger]

will be doing the suspension in my 130 shortly and have checked out gwyns kits , just wanting info on road handling with the kit installed , looks like it will be perfect for bush work

Although not having a 130,I do have a 110 Defender,and have had the Gwyn Lewis mounts,towers and rear arms for a few years now,and I can say that they are well made,although they are not fancy or pretty looking,unlike the knockoff brands.The rear arms are the heaviest arms that I have come across anywhere,and would account for the high transport cost due to the weight.They are very heavy.
Handling is really mute,as it will depend on the springs and shocks fitted,which will mainly effect handling.But if you do fit longer springs,then I suggest you do the mods to your swivel balls to account for the alteration to the geometry.

[LowRanger]

Well.... after a few emails to Gwyn Lewis it seems I'll be going with the apparent competition.... the terrafirma +2 Shock Turrets and Rear mounts.
I was hoping to support Gwyn but with 210gbp shipping for mounts and rear arms (no springs or shocks or front arms) just made things cheaper and easier in Oz, who would of thought:eek:

Also I'm sure better minds than mine have contemplated the rear arms, but,.........I was measuring the front radius arms against the rears. I get 40mm difference, with the front being longer. Has anyone just cut the extra mount from the front arms giving avery strong rear arm and then made new brackets for the A arm to bring the pinion angle back(or A arm Mod)? I havnt gone and measured the arc of travel but 40mm, on face value doesnt seem much to go back and would probably be less with a lift.
Thoughts?

cheers

Unfortunately,the weight of the rear arms,which are the heaviest that I have seen,will be the main contributing factor in the high cost of shipping from the U.K. which is high anyway.
Goodluck with the knockoffs though.

[strangy]

Gwynn put me onto Gigglepin, suggesting they maybe able to provide his hardware with a better freight cost.
They haven't responded to my emails.

I know the rear arms and kit are reasonably heavy but, for hardware only, no springs or shocks, freight for these is more than I have been quoted for a complete engine and box from the UK. Also considering the freight for the Ashcroft gear which just arrived, I think the freight mob he is using are out to make an early retirement.

Oh well, I shall persist and see if I can get a better result.

Cheers

[uninformed]

................. I'm sure better minds than mine have contemplated the rear arms, but,.........I was measuring the front radius arms against the rears. I get 40mm difference, with the front being longer. Has anyone just cut the extra mount from the front arms giving avery strong rear arm and then made new brackets for the A arm to bring the pinion angle back(or A arm Mod)? I havnt gone and measured the arc of travel but 40mm, on face value doesnt seem much to go back and would probably be less with a lift.
Thoughts?

cheers

Are you suggesting getting some radius arms, cutting the front bush and curved part of arm off, then using the left over as a rea trailing arm?

And you want to use the stock trailing arm chassis mount where it is, but making new brackets for the A arm to adjust pinion angle???

What are you trying to achieve?

[strangy]

uninformed;1753745]Are you suggesting getting some radius arms, cutting the front bush and curved part of arm off, then using the left over as a rea trailing arm?

Yes


And you want to use the stock trailing arm chassis mount where it is, but making new brackets for the A arm to adjust pinion angle???

What are you trying to achieve?


That was the original thought, as I have a spare set of front RA's I was hoping to achieve a viable (i.e free) alternative option for heavy duty rear arms. As the front RA's are pretty tuff compared to anything close to the original Rear Arms. Using an offset Castor Correction bush, Cranking the arm and an adaptor plate for the A frame chassis mount would be quick and easy to bring the pinion angle back to match the longer RA. Inclusive of a 2 inch lift the distance from chassis mount to diff mount would be around 20mm longer than the original. (dont hold me to precise calcs, it was just a tape measure and cardboard template)
However....
Ive had a bit more time to look at the setup now and while it isnt too hard to do in reality it will be easier to just get some off the shelf heavy items.

As with most stuff I do, I throw ideas around until they become impractical from my own deductions or someone elses.:wacko:

cheers

[modman]

Turn or grind the weld from the pin at the chassis end of the TA
Sleeve the TA with closest fit hollow bar
Sikaflex or plug weld bar
CHEAP!!!!!
I know someone will tut tut the grind or turn but I'm pretty sure
That part is superfluous to the integrity of the TA
(has been mentioned before)
Dc

[uninformed]

I think you may be correct modman. They are friction welded, so a little different to conventional welding where the weld that is above the surface is reinforcing.

[rick130]

Turn or grind the weld from the pin at the chassis end of the TA
Sleeve the TA with closest fit hollow bar
Sikaflex or plug weld bar
CHEAP!!!!!
I know someone will tut tut the grind or turn but I'm pretty sure
That part is superfluous to the integrity of the TA
(has been mentioned before)
Dc


I think you may be correct modman. They are friction welded, so a little different to conventional welding where the weld that is above the surface is reinforcing.


Yep, friction welded so what you see is just flash that AFAIK can easily/safely be removed

[roverrescue]

"closest fit hollow bar"

NB32H

Yeah its got a seam but its cheap and slides over stock arms like hot butter (one the flash from the friction weld is reduced in diameter), splash the MIG around and for probably less than $30 you have arms that most likely wont bend ;)

S

[rick130]

I have some Mecaval 147 hollow bar, 40.5mm OD according to an old post to sleeve mine.

They won't bend :D