My D3 buildup

[DoctorJ]

Well after putting up with the Patrol for 4 years, I finally picked up a D3 2 weeks ago, well it was a toorak tractor with nothing done to it so the buildup starts. I'm not the type of 4wder that loves finding the biggest boghole and drives as hard and fast straight into it I love travelleing around this fantastic country so I will be focusing on making it an awesome tourer and as the D3 is pretty special to start off with it shouldn't be too hard.

My list is as follows in no particular order:
ARB winch bar
Winch
Lightforce Driving Lights
GME TX3540 CB (where has everyone placed the body to this?)
LRA long range tank
Rear Wheel Carrier
Roof Rails and Rhino Bars
Drawers and Cargo Barrier
Dual Battery System
ARB Compressor
Snorkel
Rear Camp light
Sidesteps/sill protectors
Powdercoat the OEM alloys (Black)
All Terrains (Might be a while away as previous owner just put Goodyear Wranglers on)
I think that's it, may have missed some!!!! LOL

As I am totally useless with a spanner most of this is being done over the next 2 weeks by ARB Dandenong (See Brendan Matthews he is a champion) and Damien at Peninsula Rangie Frankston so I will be keeping everyone updated regularly as to what gets done when and I will post up pics for those that also plan on doing there D3 up, Land Rover didn't design these cars to be driven to school and back so lets use them for what they are best at!

Cheers
Julian

[DoctorJ]

Had a quiet morning so I thought I would do some of the stuff that I could do

Well the most important mod goes on first!

50000

[DoctorJ]

I then tackled the roof rails, I picked these up from MLR a couple of days ago, and as stated earlier my efforts with a spanner are pretty average but it is really easy so if you are not sure I will add a new thread, if I could do it any one can. The hardest part is removing the rubber grommets!

50001

Cheers
Julian

[1976_michelle]

see now thats how a garage should be made, that little bit wider and two doors so the other halfs big bummed xr5 doesnt hog the drive when he parks skewiff lol
THough going by the roller door height you won't be lifting much or else you'll keep the rhino racks off mostly?

[DoctorJ]

Hi Michelle, the photo is a bit deceiving there is actually plenty of room so wont be a problem with Rhino racks, but my Patrol didn't fit with its lift, roofrack, CB Aeriel and jerry can holders on the rack, so its good to be able to use it again, the only disadvantage to the garage setup is you only have a couple of centremetres on either side of the sideview mirrors so i can't fly in .......yet!

Cheers
Julian

[TerryO]

Don't forget to look at either a Llams kit or the GOA rods. Both will make a real difference off road especially in sand.

cheers,
Terry

[DoctorJ]

Don't forget to look at either a Llams kit or the GOA rods. Both will make a real difference off road especially in sand.

cheers,
Terry

Thanks Terry, it is something that I am considering however I want to find out the limitations of the vehicle first. I have heard that there may be insurance ramifications with having them on and I also want to try and keep it as simple as possible, I don't want a failure in the middle of nowhere and end up running at access height if you know what I mean, I would love to hear everyone's thoughts.

Cheers
Julian

[101RRS]

I don't want a failure in the middle of nowhere and end up running at access height if you know what I mean, I would love to hear everyone's thoughts.

LLAMS gets around that issue as long as the air compressor is OK. If you want to drive big distances on poor roads at less than 50kph then stay with the original system.

Also note that LLAMS can be disconnected and the car taken back to normal in as little as 5 minutes.

Garry

[~Rich~]

LLAMS would be my #1` fitment!
Saved my bacon more than once!

[andycapper]

I then tackled the roof rails, I picked these up from MLR a couple of days ago, and as stated earlier my efforts with a spanner are pretty average but it is really easy so if you are not sure I will add a new thread, if I could do it any one can. The hardest part is removing the rubber grommets!

50001

Cheers
Julian

Hi Julian,
I see you were getting rails from MLR (ie Land Rover oem rails...?) but plan to use a Rhino rack......? I went down that track 3 years ago and had to remove my Land Rover rails and substitute Rhino rails. I have a full length Rhino rack and to use Rhino on LR you have to add an adaptor to fit the LR rail. This lifts the rack a long way off the roof (too far for my liking) which will work with a short rack but is no good with a full length rack where it overhangs the step-down of the roof.

Good luck tho, sounds as if you will be well set up.

All the best, Andy (Frankston S)

[DoctorJ]

Thanks Andy, might have to give Rhino a call as that wasn't advised when I ordered them (pick up next week) if that's the case might have to change.

Cheers
Julian

[DoctorJ]

Just picked the car up after getting a few more mods added

Rock sliders
Dual battery system
Bash plates
Light force lights wired up (****s me there is no spots to fit switches)
Picked up the 12000lb winch (warrior brand) with dyneema rope-will fit once the ARB bar is on
Rear wheel carrier with Narva camp light

Whilst she was in Peninsula Rangie Damien noticed I needed Lower Control Arms as well, so the budget has been blown out a bit but I would rather make sure it's all good.

I'll post some photos over the weekend, next week she is off to ARB to get some more goodies and a catch up with DiscoJools to swap my Goodyear Wranglers for his General Grabbers

[DoctorJ]

As Promised the photos:

The RWC is from 4x4 design, I chose this unit as it also allows for the addition to become a Dual RWC which is in my plans, and also incorporated a Light stand, have found it to be of a good quality, however the latch needs a good hit to close. Here is the link to the webite 4x4 Design and Engineering - Home (http://www.4x4de.com.au/)
50272

50273

The Camp Light is a Narva LED Flood Lamp checked it out last night and I'm really happy with the output
50274

[DoctorJ]

And the rock sliders, these are awesome I love how they are thick as some can quite thin. I'll have to find out where Damien sourced these from as when I initially had a chat too him he knew exactly what I was after.
50276

50277

50278'

I feel this will be the one mod that will tell everyone that this is no Toorak Tractor, I'm not designing it to be an extreme machine more of a tourer but you still want it to look like it could [wink11]

[~Rich~]

As Promised the photos:

The RWC is from 4x4 design, I chose this unit as it also allows for the addition to become a Dual RWC which is in my plans, and also incorporated a Light stand, have found it to be of a good quality, however the latch needs a good hit to close. Here is the link to the webite 4x4 Design and Engineering - Home (http://www.4x4de.com.au/)


I fitted the same carrier, I think you will find it catches well once you have the weight of the spare on there.
It also works well as a ladder to gain access to a roof basket, you step on the centre of the wheel bar and then on the top of the tyre. ( Carrier closed at the time)
Only issue I have is with the rear park sensors, sometimes they work but mostly not!

[DoctorJ]

Next came the Redarc Dual Battery system with a Optima D34 Yellowtop, this could be the mod I might enjoy the most as I've never had a dual battery system before and to be able to sit in one place without the worry of not being able to start the car sounds good to me![smilebigeye]
50284

50285

I've also added a transmission bash plate for some extra protection with a compressor bash plate still to come
50286

Off to ARB tomorrow to get some more goodies added so I'll add some more photos when I get it back.

Cheers
Julian

[DoctorJ]

I fitted the same carrier, I think you will find it catches well once you have the weight of the spare on there.
It also works well as a ladder to gain access to a roof basket, you step on the centre of the wheel bar and then on the top of the tyre. ( Carrier closed at the time)
Only issue I have is with the rear park sensors, sometimes they work but mostly not!

Thanks Rich its good to hear someone else is happy with theirs, Re: the parking sensors Michael at 4x4 design claims you can rectify the issue with the sensors and the RWC so I plan on having a chat with him once i get it back from ARB because they drive me mad ATM:mad:

Cheers
Julian

[Tombie]

I then tackled the roof rails, I picked these up from MLR a couple of days ago, and as stated earlier my efforts with a spanner are pretty average but it is really easy so if you are not sure I will add a new thread, if I could do it any one can. The hardest part is removing the rubber grommets!

50001

Cheers
Julian

How far back did you cut the original black strip?

[DoctorJ]

How far back did you cut the original black strip?

G'day Tombie, measuring from the rear of the plastic strip 1525mm, its all in the thread i started

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/156998-fitting-roof-rails-d3.html

Glad I could help

Cheers
Julian

[Tombie]

G'day Tombie, measuring from the rear of the plastic strip 1525mm, its all in the thread i started

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/156998-fitting-roof-rails-d3.html

Glad I could help

Cheers
Julian

Thanks mate.... Appreciated.... Had been told, but easier to see :D

[Tombie]

Thanks Rich its good to hear someone else is happy with theirs, Re: the parking sensors Michael at 4x4 design claims you can rectify the issue with the sensors and the RWC so I plan on having a chat with him once i get it back from ARB because they drive me mad ATM:mad:

Cheers
Julian

Julian....

In THIS pic....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

It doesn't look like they Fitted the sensor in the mount down the bottom there...

Is it still in the main bar?

That will be your problem!

[DoctorJ]

Julian....

In THIS pic....

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/d3-d4-rrs/50273d1345960435-my-d3-buildup-img_0669.jpg

It doesn't look like they Fitted the sensor in the mount down the bottom there...

Is it still in the main bar?

That will be your problem!

Yeah it's still in the main bar I'll take it back to Damien to get sorted, how does it work as the rear wheel goes out and retracts. A photo wouldbe great if you get a chance.

[~Rich~]

I moved mine down there, you have to adjust the plastic mounting plate to fit in the holes. Extend the wires to mate up with the existing loom cable tying them as you have for the light pole.
Worst part is:




You have to remove the bumper again to get to the sensor & wiring. :(

I also fitted another spring to return the release lever back to the closed position, it's a pain without one as you have to remember to push it back down prior to closing the carrier.
(This maybe why you are having trouble closing yours)

[Tombie]

Yeah it's still in the main bar I'll take it back to Damien to get sorted, how does it work as the rear wheel goes out and retracts. A photo wouldbe great if you get a chance.

Don't have a pic here.

You're supposed to splice a longer wire into the loom for that sensor and run it up and along the arm to the new sensor point...

Similar to what you have for the light...

Hope that makes sense...

[DoctorJ]

I moved mine down there, you have to adjust the plastic mounting plate to fit in the holes. Extend the wires to mate up with the existing loom cable tying them as you have for the light pole.
Worst part is:




You have to remove the bumper again to get to the sensor & wiring. :(

I also fitted another spring to return the release lever back to the closed position, it's a pain without one as you have to remember to push it back down prior to closing the carrier.
(This maybe why you are having trouble closing yours)

Thanks Rich I have thought of doing the same re adding a spring

[DoctorJ]

Don't have a pic here.

You're supposed to splice a longer wire into the loom for that sensor and run it up and along the arm to the new sensor point...

Similar to what you have for the light...

Hope that makes sense...

Total sense I will get onto that

Thanks guys I love this forum!

Cheers
Julian

[~Rich~]

Here is the spring I added:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/285.jpg

[DoctorJ]

Here is the spring I added:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/285.jpg

G'day Rich it looks like such an easy fix you wonder why they don't do that at the manufacturers.

Thanks heaps

Julian

[jimc]

Nice build up. I am about to do exactly the same to mine.
Can you advise what each phase cost you?
I am getting wildly differing quotes for ARB bar, wheel carrier etc.

...and did it take long to have all the gear fitted?

[Tombie]

Nice build up. I am about to do exactly the same to mine.
Can you advise what each phase cost you?
I am getting wildly differing quotes for ARB bar, wheel carrier etc.

...and did it take long to have all the gear fitted?

jimc - if you're relatively handy and savy with basic tools then you can save an enormous amount.

Keep that in mind...

Bullbars are easy to fit, as are battery kits, lights etc...

Fuel tanks need a little thought and the rear wheel carrier some patience.

PM me with what you're looking to do / fit... I'll get back to you :)

Cheers

[Disco4SE]

Nice build up. I am about to do exactly the same to mine.
Can you advise what each phase cost you?
I am getting wildly differing quotes for ARB bar, wheel carrier etc.

...and did it take long to have all the gear fitted?
Hey jimc, keep in mind that if you fit the ARB bar, you cant fit as larger tyre as you can with a OL bar, even though they look very similar.
I have the Cooper 285/60/18's and they fit fine with my OL bar, however they will not fit with the ARB bar.

Cheers, Craig

[rufusking]

Isn't the OL bar a ECB bar?

[Disco4SE]

Isn't the OL bar a ECB bar?
Not as far as I know?
Cheers, Craig

[DoctorJ]

So on went the ARB bullbar, it looks so naked without Driving Lights or winch!
50385

and of course the Safari Snorkel
50386

[DoctorJ]

Next came the ARB compressor
50387
we installed the switch in the same compartment

[DoctorJ]

and just fitted tonight is the GME 3540, I chose this unit as I had it in my last vehicle and find them very good, struggled to find an appropriate spot for the remote head connection was hoping to connect it to the dash by the Air con as I had a spare spot but after pulling it apart found out they are a sealed unit:(. So saw that a few guys put it here
50388

50389

Main unit is hidden under the dash

Cheers
Julian

[DoctorJ]

Nice build up. I am about to do exactly the same to mine.
Can you advise what each phase cost you?
I am getting wildly differing quotes for ARB bar, wheel carrier etc.

...and did it take long to have all the gear fitted?

G'day Jim I'll PM you the costs, it didn't cost a huge amount to get it all installed but that being said if you can do it yourself you will save $$$$ ( I personally with my skills couldn't get the finish that these guys do so was happy to pay), your car is off road a bit for example ARB just installed the bullbar, compressor and snorkel and it took 1.5 days

Cheers
Julian

[Tombie]

Next came the ARB compressor
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/d3-d4-rrs/50387d1346226759-my-d3-buildup-img_0675.jpg
we installed the switch in the same compartment

So where are you putting your second battery???????

Are you buying a battery tray as well?

[Tombie]

Typical installers....

On a D3, you use that area for a battery and then you dont need a tray :)

You install a compressor down the other side, behind the headlight in front of the main battery...

Tell them you want them to pony up for the new battery tray you now have to buy ;)

[DoctorJ]

G'day Tombie, I was after the biggest battery possible to fit and I did mention that prior to the work being done, I thought the battery went on the opposite side but it was mentioned to me that the d34 optima wouldn't fit however I have since seen that others have fitted them, does the plastic cover fit back on afterwards? to be honest I'm happy with his work and having the battery on one side or the other doesn't worry me and he did me a great deal on the other things installed that it would have more than covered a battery tray

Cheers
Julian

[Stuart02]

and just fitted tonight is the GME 3540, I chose this unit as I had it in my last vehicle and find them very good,

Main unit is hidden under the dash

Cheers
Julian

Do you have it under or "inside" the dash? I was thinking I'd get a 3340 just cos they're that much more compact than the 3540...

[DoctorJ]

Do you have it under or "inside" the dash? I was thinking I'd get a 3340 just cos they're that much more compact than the 3540...

G'day Stuart they are the same size but the 3540 is the 80 channel model I had the 3340 on the patrol, the unit is inside the dash.

Hope this helps

Cheers
Julian

[DoctorJ]

Ok I added a few more mods yesterday, first up were the Rhino Racks, I ended up choosing the Aero style as there are more accessories that can be added to these eg awning brackets and shovel holders, I preferred the sports bars but for two reasons I didn't go ahead 1-space, they really minimise what you can carry and 2- you can't fit brackets to them. I went for these as I needed the extra space for when we go on trips but will never take a roofrack down once installed so I plan on using a pod instead, putting the Blackwolf quick setup tent next to that and installing an awning on these aswell, picked an awning up cheap from tigerz11 so we'll see what thats like when i pick it up tomorrow.
50470

50471

Tigerz11 - AWNING2.5 X 2M (http://tigerz11.com.au/products/-SIDE-AWNING-2M-X-2.5M.html)

[DoctorJ]

Caught up with Julian (yeah theres another one!;))(DiscoJools) yesterday after having a chat he was wanting to get HT tyres as he already has a set of Muddies and I wanted AT tyres, both sets were only a few months old so we met at a tyre place close by and swapped them over. They are the General Grabber AT's that every one seems really happy with so it ended up being one of my cheapest mods but could very well be my best. Thanks mate!
50475

For those of you that haven't caught up with the great guys and gals on this forum, PM a few of them that live close by, organise a time to catch up, have a coffee and a chinwag as they are all great people willing to talk everything Land Rover and are a wealth of information, you wont come away disappointed.

Cheers
Julian

[DoctorJ]

OK I have been a bit slack this week in updating my progress, I connected up the Lightforce 240's and the Warrior winch which definately finishes off the front end, however I have planned to add a 3rd Spottie across the front so installed the winch control box under the bonnet to leave room for the 3rd spottie still to come
50796

After much deliberation I decided to go for the LLAMS system so organised that from Graeme this week, who has been fantastic with his communication, however I hated the switch it now comes with (more suitable for D4), so after speaking to Graeme went down to Jaycar and changed it to something a bit more suitable
50797

And now I have complete control over my height without having to drive like a grandpa!:D
50798

I also removed the mudflaps as I prefer my fourbies without them for two reasons, 1- they have a tendancy to break and 2- you look higher without them[wink11]
50799

So I've got the Longranger tank going in on Monday week and then I'll nearly be finished, now I've just got to get out there and use it, so I'm heading out with the guys on here on Sunday and I've teed up for a weekend trip with a mate the following weekend out of Licola so we'll see how good she is then.

Cheers
Julian

[Graeme]

I agree that the current knob looks a bit strange in a D3 and maybe the RRS too. Your replacement is a lot more stylish than the original black one and perhaps a better all-rounder. I'll see how one looks in my D4.

[AnD3rew]

Looking good, I can't wait to get started on mine, I have a nice pile of stuff I have bought for it sitting in a corner, but still waking for some quotes to come in before I book it in to get it all done.

[DoctorJ]

Looking good, I can't wait to get started on mine, I have a nice pile of stuff I have bought for it sitting in a corner, but still waking for some quotes to come in before I book it in to get it all done.

Gday And3rew, its exciting at the start when it all starts coming together but I seriously can't wait to see how good she is off road, i've only done a few trails so far, stuff that a freelander wouldn't be tested by so cant wait for the next couple of weeks and then it will be time to start planning for the next big trip, does the permagrin ever leave?:D

Cheers
Julian

[AnD3rew]

Gday And3rew, its exciting at the start when it all starts coming together but I seriously can't wait to see how good she is off road, i've only done a few trails so far, stuff that a freelander wouldn't be tested by so cant wait for the next couple of weeks and then it will be time to start planning for the next big trip, does the permagrin ever leave?:D

Cheers
Julian

Well I can answer that question, I have had mine for 3 years and it's been offroad lots, I don't need the extra gear to know its awesome offroad. My extra gear is just for a little extra protection and insurance.

[Tombie]

Dont stick a 3rd driving light on... Its illegal for starters.

It will also seriously raise running temperature - Even if the gauge doesn't indicate it, it will be working the cooling system harder.

[oldsalt]

Hey Julian, any chance of a photo of your installation of the winch controller box under the bonnet ? - your D3 looks great - congratulations...look forward to catching up soon.
cheers

[DoctorJ]

Dont stick a 3rd driving light on... Its illegal for starters.

It will also seriously raise running temperature - Even if the gauge doesn't indicate it, it will be working the cooling system harder.

G'day Tombie I have heard that somewhere that it raises the running temperature why is that the case? In regards to it being illegal so are rooftop lights but everyone does it I don't think the cops would be too worried about it. It takes a certain individual to have 3 lights across the front, and I want it to look different from the rest. If I was to have my time again though I would have just got the black arb bar as opposed to the Colour coded.

Cheers
Julian

[101RRS]

Lights are supposed to be mounted in pairs - there may be people out who mount differently but that is their choice and may have to cop up if they get caught out.

Having said that I am looking at mounting three (center spot and two broad beams) on my roof rack. Just got to work out how to get power from inside the cabin.

Garry

[DoctorJ]

Hey Julian, any chance of a photo of your installation of the winch controller box under the bonnet ? - your D3 looks great - congratulations...look forward to catching up soon.
cheers

G'day Peter, I can't get a photo of the control box as its hidden away but I have the control switch hard wired in and have positioned it by the dual battery system just in case the remote doesn't work, I will post a photo up later. I see your not going to the Land Rover night so we will have to organize a day out.

Cheers
Julian

[Graeme]

There used to be a NSW limit of 6 front lights.

[TerryO]

G'day Tombie I have heard that somewhere that it raises the running temperature why is that the case?

Cheers
Julian


I had to replace my air con compressor at 120k and was told that this repair was much more prevalent on D3's with front bars and Spotties. I had to have it done at real short notice, namely less than one week turn around, because of work and nearly 3k later I wasn't feeling real happy about the experience.

Cheers,
Terry

[AnD3rew]

I have tossed up several options for lights for my build, but in the end I have decided that the standard bi xenon units in my D3 are pretty awesome on their own and that anything that might provide any meaningfull addition to them would be very large and very expensive. If I put them on, it would only be for the look of it, and that seems pretty silly.

I have also heard lots of airflow stories, not sure how true they all are, but maybe not worth the risk considering the standard lights are so good.

In light of that I decided to save the money and spend it on other stuff.

[DoctorJ]

I had to replace my air con compressor at 120k and was told that this repair was much more prevalent on D3's with front bars and Spotties. I had to have it done at real short notice, namely less than one week turn around, because of work and nearly 3k later I wasn't feeling real happy about the experience.

Cheers,
Terry

G'day Terry, I wouldn't think the spotties would cause any issues with the compressor. I could understand the bullbar/winch weight may make the compressor work harder but the spotties would be lucky to weigh a couple of kg's. Wow, 3k to chuck a new compressor in most quotes I've heard have been around the 1k mark. Could be a new thread[wink11]

Cheers
Julian

[DoctorJ]

I have tossed up several options for lights for my build, but in the end I have decided that the standard bi xenon units in my D3 are pretty awesome on their own and that anything that might provide any meaningfull addition to them would be very large and very expensive. If I put them on, it would only be for the look of it, and that seems pretty silly.

I have also heard lots of airflow stories, not sure how true they all are, but maybe not worth the risk considering the standard lights are so good.

In light of that I decided to save the money and spend it on other stuff.

Agree And3rew that the lights are pretty good on there own but I will post a photo of the massive difference these lights make, I was gobsmacked the first time I tried them out, they are considerably better than my narvas I had on the patrol.

Cheers
Julian

[gghaggis]

G'day Terry, I wouldn't think the spotties would cause any issues with the compressor. I could understand the bullbar/winch weight may make the compressor work harder but the spotties would be lucky to weigh a couple of kg's. Wow, 3k to chuck a new compressor in most quotes I've heard have been around the 1k mark. Could be a new thread[wink11]

Cheers
Julian
I believe Terry's referring to the air-con compressor in the engine bay, not the suspension compressor. The theory is that lack of air-flow around the (AC) compressor would cause it to fail prematurely. Not sure I'd believe that, but that's the theory!

Cheers,

Gordon

[MR LR]

Lights are supposed to be mounted in pairs - there may be people out who mount differently but that is their choice and may have to cop up if they get caught out.

Having said that I am looking at mounting three (center spot and two broad beams) on my roof rack. Just got to work out how to get power from inside the cabin.

Garry
Would it be any different if all three were working in the same circuit? So that there was no chance (unless two are blown) of driving down the road with one centre light??

My Discovery has a Spot and a Fog on it, although they are wired together they could easily be independant as the fog could be used in different conditions (not just for high beams), they're also wired directly into high beam (no switch) as i think thats the most stupid law around.

Cheers
Will

[101RRS]

Will - I am not sure but I have something in the back of my mind that the rules are that lights are to be mounted and operated in pairs - and as mentioned I believe up to a max of 6.

So a spottie and a fog that come on together are most likely legal but I suspect that if they operate independently that may be a different story.

Garry

[DoctorJ]

Yeah I've heard of the pair law, it's ridiculous you can have 4 spotties across the front but not 3 might have a word with vicroads to see what the ruling is in Victoria as every state is different.

Cheers
Julian

[Graeme]

Don't forget that you already have 4 standard lights.

[DoctorJ]

Ok as promised here are the pics of the lights in action, you really need to blow them up to see as the attachments show bugger all, but what I see from inside the vehicle is considerable distance over standard high beams and also width of the beam, not sure if the photos clearly show this
Standard Lights
50885
High Beams
50886
High Beams with Lightforce 240's
50887

The clarity, width and depth of the light definitely make them worthwhile for anyone doing night driving.

Cheers
Julian

[Stuart02]

I can definitely see a heap more asparagus in the driving lights pic. :)

[Tombie]

G'day Tombie I have heard that somewhere that it raises the running temperature why is that the case? In regards to it being illegal so are rooftop lights but everyone does it I don't think the cops would be too worried about it. It takes a certain individual to have 3 lights across the front, and I want it to look different from the rest. If I was to have my time again though I would have just got the black arb bar as opposed to the Colour coded.

Cheers
Julian

Essentially the amount of airflow blocked by the 2 lights alone raises running temp. A third really is like shoving cardboard in front of the grill ;)

Lights must be mounted in Pairs, with a maximum of six units allowed by law.

3 on the bar looks rather "naff" to be honest... :angel:

Same with the roof rack - If you mount, mount in pairs...

Forward facing, roof mounted lights ARE legal... If wired correctly.
But still must be mounted in pairs....

3 on a roof rack would look bloody ridiculous!!!!!! :twisted:

[oldsalt]

Yeah I've heard of the pair law, it's ridiculous you can have 4 spotties across the front but not 3 might have a word with vicroads to see what the ruling is in Victoria as every state is different.

Cheers
Julian

I'm not sure ... but I think I saw DoctorJ yesterday - he wasn't in his D3 but I 'm pretty sure this is his scooter :p .... sorry Julian .. couldn't help myself.
http://files.myopera.com/veedub5/albums/12539772/Scooter-Many-Lights-09.jpg

[DoctorJ]

Thanks Peter that is a classic but I only wish I had that much hair:D

Cheers
Julian

[DoctorJ]

Ok took her for a good test and did some damage but hopefully will give me the ability to upgrade to full length rails, might change back to a roof rack aswell instead of the rhino racks

here are some of the photos on the tracks
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/doctorj-albums-licola++walhalla-picture3826-photo-33.jpg

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/doctorj-albums-licola++walhalla-picture3825-photo-32.jpg

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/doctorj-albums-licola++walhalla-picture3812-photo-16.jpg

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/doctorj-albums-licola++walhalla-picture3823-photo-29.jpg

[tocqueville]

Well after putting up with the Patrol for 4 years, I finally picked up a D3 2 weeks ago, well it was a toorak tractor with nothing done to it so the buildup starts. I'm not the type of 4wder that loves finding the biggest boghole and drives as hard and fast straight into it I love travelleing around this fantastic country so I will be focusing on making it an awesome tourer and as the D3 is pretty special to start off with it shouldn't be too hard.

My list is as follows in no particular order:
ARB winch bar
Winch
Lightforce Driving Lights
GME TX3540 CB (where has everyone placed the body to this?)
LRA long range tank
Rear Wheel Carrier
Roof Rails and Rhino Bars
Drawers and Cargo Barrier
Dual Battery System
ARB Compressor
Snorkel
Rear Camp light
Sidesteps/sill protectors
Powdercoat the OEM alloys (Black)
All Terrains (Might be a while away as previous owner just put Goodyear Wranglers on)
I think that's it, may have missed some!!!! LOL

As I am totally useless with a spanner most of this is being done over the next 2 weeks by ARB Dandenong (See Brendan Matthews he is a champion) and Damien at Peninsula Rangie Frankston so I will be keeping everyone updated regularly as to what gets done when and I will post up pics for those that also plan on doing there D3 up, Land Rover didn't design these cars to be driven to school and back so lets use them for what they are best at!

Cheers
Julian
Hi Julian,

Can you tell me where you got the Drawers and Cargo Barrier from. I went to ARB in Bendigo and looked at setup in Nissan, but they said the drawers in particular were not available for Defender 110??

Regards,

Michael

[AnD3rew]

Looking good Julian, what kind of damage did you do?

And why are you looking to change from Rhino, I was about to put Rhino on mine?

I have just ordered
Long Ranger aux tank
ARB Bar
Dolium rear wheel carrier
Cargo barrier
Safari snorkel

As soon as they are in the workshop they will be installed
Along with the Mitch hitch and Llams unit I already have.

Stage 2 will be
GME TX3540 UHF (aleady have)
Traxide dual battery system (ordered)
Winch (still haven't decided which one Warn, VRS, Magnum)
Rhino short legs with Rhino platform, foxwing awning, spare wheel strap and shovel holder brackets.

I think that's it for now.

[DoctorJ]

Hi Julian,

Can you tell me where you got the Drawers and Cargo Barrier from. I went to ARB in Bendigo and looked at setup in Nissan, but they said the drawers in particular were not available for Defender 110??

Regards,

Michael

G'day Michael,
I haven't done the drawers and cargo barrier yet but there are some great posts by Rich showing how to build your drawers yourself with diagrams, a definite must read for anyone thinking about it.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/138015-d3-d4-build-yourself-custom-storage-drawer-unit.html
And here's a good post as to how to add water tanks into the mix as well, Oldsalt in my mind has a great setup
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/159186-onboard-water-tank.html

Cheers
Julian

[DoctorJ]

Looking good Julian, what kind of damage did you do?

And why are you looking to change from Rhino, I was about to put Rhino on mine?

I have just ordered
Long Ranger aux tank
ARB Bar
Dolium rear wheel carrier
Cargo barrier
Safari snorkel

As soon as they are in the workshop they will be installed
Along with the Mitch hitch and Llams unit I already have.

Stage 2 will be
GME TX3540 UHF (aleady have)
Traxide dual battery system (ordered)
Winch (still haven't decided which one Warn, VRS, Magnum)
Rhino short legs with Rhino platform, foxwing awning, spare wheel strap and shovel holder brackets.

I think that's it for now.

g'day And3rew we should catch up our vehicles are going to be setup very similar, I was 4wding near Licola in the high country and unfortunately there were a lot of trees down. As I was crawling under a downed tree my front wheels dropped which lifted my rear, the shovel holder caught the tree and ripped the roof bars off, I just got the car back from getting the repairs done and decided to stay with the bars and get a roof rack if I plan on doing anything more hardcore, in truth I don't think it will happen again as I was traveling in an area that had had severe wind damage over the previous 2 weeks

Cheers
Julian

[AnD3rew]

g'day And3rew we should catch up our vehicles are going to be setup very similar, I was 4wding near Licola in the high country and unfortunately there were a lot of trees down. As I was crawling under a downed tree my front wheels dropped which lifted my rear, the shovel holder caught the tree and ripped the roof bars off, I just got the car back from getting the repairs done and decided to stay with the bars and get a roof rack if I plan on doing anything more hardcore, in truth I don't think it will happen again as I was traveling in an area that had had severe wind damage over the previous 2 weeks

Cheers
Julian

They are even same colour:)

Who knows, my brother and sister in law live in Frankston so if we head down to see them we should catch up.

[DoctorJ]

They are even same colour:)

Who knows, my brother and sister in law live in Frankston so if we head down to see them we should catch up.

Sounds great

[herrBlick]

OK I have been a bit slack this week in updating my progress, I connected up the Lightforce 240's and the Warrior winch which definately finishes off the front end, however I have planned to add a 3rd Spottie across the front so installed the winch control box under the bonnet to leave room for the 3rd spottie still to come
50796

After much deliberation I decided to go for the LLAMS system so organised that from Graeme this week, who has been fantastic with his communication, however I hated the switch it now comes with (more suitable for D4), so after speaking to Graeme went down to Jaycar and changed it to something a bit more suitable
50797

And now I have complete control over my height without having to drive like a grandpa!:D
50798

I also removed the mudflaps as I prefer my fourbies without them for two reasons, 1- they have a tendancy to break and 2- you look higher without them[wink11]
50799

So I've got the Longranger tank going in on Monday week and then I'll nearly be finished, now I've just got to get out there and use it, so I'm heading out with the guys on here on Sunday and I've teed up for a weekend trip with a mate the following weekend out of Licola so we'll see how good she is then.

Cheers
Julian

Hello DoctorJ I hope your well... I would like to pick your brain s about the llams gear.
Is it worth it?
Do you know anyone who installs it ?
Does it lower the car even more in entry height ?
Also does it effect the special functions of the car ie rock crawl / mud and ruts
Cheers

[DoctorJ]

G'day Herr Blick,

Is it worth it? Depends on how much 4wding you do, I love to get out there and as I'm sure you have already experienced with the car dropping after 50kmh and chiming after 40kmh just for the serenity it's worth it, if you only get out a couple of times a year I would think twice about it

Do you know anyone who installs it ? No my brother and I installed it we came across a problem with the install and Graeme on a Sunday ran us through it, it is fairly easy if you have worked on cars before

Does it lower the car even more in entry height ?Yes I believe so but I don't use it for that I find entry height sufficient for car parks and my mum to get in

Also does it effect the special functions of the car ie rock crawl / mud and ruts? No it doesn't it purely overrides the height sensors to think the car is still in the height set in the main unit.

I like you was sceptical until I went out in the car for the first time, obviously the other option are the rods but they don't give you the versatility of the Llams unit

I reccomend that you Pm Graeme as he really is the expert and may even know of others down this way that have had them installed by mechanics, he is extremely helpful and available all the time (I don't know when he sleeps lol)

At the end of the day I'm happy I put it in with no regrets in fact there have been a couple of times I have had suspension faults (cracked compressor bracket) and it has indicated normal height only and I have been able to lift the car still via the Llams unit that could be a lifesaver out in the bush


Best of luck with your buildup

Cheers
Julian

[DoctorJ]

Forgot to add if you want to catch up and have a look at one in the flesh I am more than happy to do so for another Aulroian ( is that a word? Lol)

Cheers
Julian

[herrBlick]

Thank you very much Doctor J you have been very helpful with your insightful information, I will probably do it in the new year

[adzee]

Nice setup! What have you don with the mud flaps?;) were they originals in reasonable condition? I like you feel they break too often but olive having them as I don't have steps like you and it prevents mud on the sills. If your keen to part with em let me know.

[DoctorJ]

Thanks Adzee I'm planning on keeping them but I will let you know if it changes

[DoctorJ]

I've been a bit lazy in posting up here lately but here are the new tyres I ended up putting on, I've got to say I'm happy at this early stage, I even went 4WDing without a puncture lol. It's great to finally have a sidewall however there is a bit of rubbing that only happens with articulation. In running the larger size the compromise is that I have to run my Llams on off-road height permanently.

[~Rich~]

You need to move that wiring loom up on top of that chassis rail on the front left ASAP.

[DoctorJ]

Thanks Rich I was either going to do exactly that or make a guard for it.

[rb30gtr]

Awesome build up, I would like one the same please.

[~Rich~]

Best to just move it up, a guard would either stop full lock or be ripped off taking the loom with it.

[DoctorJ]

Best to just move it up, a guard would either stop full lock or be ripped off taking the loom with it.

Good point! Might get the cable ties out tonight

Cheers
Julian

[discojools]

If you're gonna run at offroad height on the road then you will need to do a new wheel alignment otherwise tyres will wear

PS lucky you didn't need to pay for the GGs! Must get together sometime..

Jools.

[DoctorJ]

If you're gonna run at offroad height on the road then you will need to do a new wheel alignment otherwise tyres will wear

PS lucky you didn't need to pay for the GGs! Must get together sometime..

Jools.

G'day Julian, yeah I thought of that and knowing there might be some rubbing I asked Boof to do the FWA at offroad height, and I would love to catch up just give us a bell


Cheers
Julian

[DoctorJ]

Planning on building some rear drawers this weekend using Rich's plans so should be flat chat, where has everyone got the carpet from, might just wait for the Wandin 4x4 show if I can't get any at the right place.

Cheers
Julian

[Tombie]

Would it be any different if all three were working in the same circuit? So that there was no chance (unless two are blown) of driving down the road with one centre light??

My Discovery has a Spot and a Fog on it, although they are wired together they could easily be independent as the fog could be used in different conditions (not just for high beams), they're also wired directly into high beam (no switch) as i think thats the most stupid law around.

Cheers
Will

Do you mean by chance Spot and Spread (not fog)?

And the switch is actually very useful.... ;)
On highway you can stage your dipping of lights...
Spots off, Down to Low... Means you can get a bit closer before having to dip... In my case, its 2km before I need to drop the High Beams...

Also, in some road conditions, High Beam works pretty well, but Spots on just glares the entire area...

[Tombie]

Planning on building some rear drawers this weekend using Rich's plans so should be flat chat, where has everyone got the carpet from, might just wait for the Wandin 4x4 show if I can't get any at the right place.

Cheers
Julian

Marine shops have great carpet, waterproof, tough... ABout $40.00 per/LM (2mt wide usually)

[DoctorJ]

Marine shops have great carpet, waterproof, tough... ABout $40.00 per/LM (2mt wide usually)

Cheers Tombie

[DoctorJ]

As I said Ive been a bit lazy lately with the updates so this is a bit of a catchup, the Autosafe Cargo barrier has been installed. I love these they give you an area to attach a number of items that are within quick and easy reach. Let us know if you need one and I'll get you a discount, just PM me or call us up on 03 9786 1818 and ask for me.

Cheers Julian

PS Sorry for the images they are off the phone

[MR LR]

Do you mean by chance Spot and Spread (not fog)?

And the switch is actually very useful.... ;)
On highway you can stage your dipping of lights...
Spots off, Down to Low... Means you can get a bit closer before having to dip... In my case, its 2km before I need to drop the High Beams...

Also, in some road conditions, High Beam works pretty well, but Spots on just glares the entire area...
Nope!! One is yellow haha!! They came off a trade in, so someone actually bought them like that!! But I use it as a spread beam.

Very good point! If only my lights were that good

Cheers
Will

[herrBlick]

Planning on building some rear drawers this weekend using Rich's plans so should be flat chat, where has everyone got the carpet from, might just wait for the Wandin 4x4 show if I can't get any at the right place.

Cheers
Julian

Mate you should contact Drifta I got some made and I have never looked back...you can measure from you guard to get that snugg fit...I love them

[DoctorJ]

Agreed if I was to buy a set if drawers I would probably go the Drifta options but I have almost everything required so I thought I would give it a shot..... so far so good

[phl]

As I said Ive been a bit lazy lately with the updates so this is a bit of a catchup, the Autosafe Cargo barrier has been installed.

How much was the barrier, installed, or did you do the install yourself?

I also gather from another post that there are no obvious drill holes for the upper straps with this system, as it's hidden under the trim.

[Tombie]

As I said Ive been a bit lazy lately with the updates so this is a bit of a catchup, the Autosafe Cargo barrier has been installed. I love these they give you an area to attach a number of items that are within quick and easy reach. Let us know if you need one and I'll get you a discount, just PM me or call us up on 03 9786 1818 and ask for me.

Cheers Julian

PS Sorry for the images they are off the phone

Julian

Out of concern for your personal safety...

Put MUCH larger washers behind the Extinguisher mount...
And check the retaining strap is really secure..

And... Move that Maglite..

If you ever run into something hard you are likely to get the back of your skull smashed :(

[Graeme]

Julian

Out of concern for your personal safety...

Put MUCH larger washers behind the Extinguisher mount...
And check the retaining strap is really secure..

When I had the carrier in my D2 behind the 1st row seats for trips I had the fire extinguishers (1 each side, a small powder and a large water) mounted behind the barrier but they were accessible from the rear doors, not possible with the barrier further back. The powder one is now mounted in the D4's driver side rear door pocket which is not ideal because its not particularly obvious.

[Steve223]

Mate you should contact Drifta I got some made and I have never looked back...you can measure from you guard to get that snugg fit...I love them

yes can only attest to that, Drifta did a great job with my on

[DoctorJ]

How much was the barrier, installed, or did you do the install yourself?

I also gather from another post that there are no obvious drill holes for the upper straps with this system, as it's hidden under the trim.

G'day PHL,
I installed myself but I wouldn't think it would be much to get someone else to do it but it is rather easy, I got it through work so it cost me hardly anything bu I can get more give me a bell on 03 9786 1818 and I'll see if I can get an Aulro special going, and it is hidden under the trim so no obvious drill holes.

Cheers
Julian

[DoctorJ]

Julian

Out of concern for your personal safety...

Put MUCH larger washers behind the Extinguisher mount...
And check the retaining strap is really secure..

And... Move that Maglite..

If you ever run into something hard you are likely to get the back of your skull smashed :(

Thanks Tombie,
The bracket for the fire extinguisher is held onto the cargo barrier by steel wire it's not going anywhere, but I will look at them both again and check how they could move in case of an accident.

Cheers
Julian

[AnD3rew]

Thanks Tombie,
The bracket for the fire extinguisher is held onto the cargo barrier by steel wire it's not going anywhere, but I will look at them both again and check how they could move in case of an accident.

Cheers
Julian

I debated this myself, whether to put the extinguisher behind the barrier or in front of it, obviously it is much more accessible in the cabin but I wasn't happy that however well I fixed the bracket that I wold be able to trust the clip that holds the extinguisher into it in an accident.

I decided the likelihood of an accident was higher than that of a fire and a fire was most likely whilst camping where I usually have the back door open anyway so I put it behind the barrier.

I also didn't like the look of that Maglite from a safety perspective.

[Tombie]

Mine vehicles mount across the floor in front of the passenger seat in LVs

To avoid drilling the floor you can make a metal strap up from the seat mounts.

Its also really accessible: Imagine trying to open the back door - vehicle on fire, only opened 1 door when getting in, electrics fried. :(

MagLite - Same deal, Drivers side - Also good protection and easily grabbed if on the receiving end of a Road Rage type incident...

[Steve223]

Good point with the extinguisher, I will rethink my extinguisher location on CB facing forward as well, not sure whether I trust the industrial cable ties I used

[Piddler]

Mine vehicles mount across the floor in front of the passenger seat in LVs

To avoid drilling the floor you can make a metal strap up from the seat mounts.

Its also really accessible: Imagine trying to open the back door - vehicle on fire, only opened 1 door when getting in, electrics fried. :(

MagLite - Same deal, Drivers side - Also good protection and easily grabbed if on the receiving end of a Road Rage type incident...

Thats where mine is.
If you mount them in the back surely when you need them the old dust in the rear door lock will get you and you wont get the door open :D

Cheers

[AnD3rew]

Mine vehicles mount across the floor in front of the passenger seat in LVs

To avoid drilling the floor you can make a metal strap up from the seat mounts.

Its also really accessible: Imagine trying to open the back door - vehicle on fire, only opened 1 door when getting in, electrics fried. :(

MagLite - Same deal, Drivers side - Also good protection and easily grabbed if on the receiving end of a Road Rage type incident...


I also have the Maglite in the drivers door:)

[phl]

[QUOTE=DoctorJ I got it through work so it cost me hardly anything bu I can get more give me a bell on 03 9786 1818 and I'll see if I can get an Aulro special going, and it is hidden under the trim so no obvious drill holes.
[/QUOTE]

If it isn't hard, may do it myself. My D4 is literally still being built, so will wait until it's done. And seeing that I have to be in Melbourne early April, may even be able to pick it up.

[phl]

Mine vehicles mount across the floor in front of the passenger seat in LVs

In my current Pajero, it's mounted under the driver's seat. Had to take a few plastic trims out, due to the size of the extinguisher (2.5kg); fortunately being electric, seat adjustment didn't depends in the under-seat handle.