D3 Front Control Arms and Steering Rack

[rdenyer]

Hi,
Just taken my MY05 D3 TDV6 SE in for its 7 year service. Luckily I did not need the time belt replaced as I had a new engine install 1 year ago ;)

As my rego is due in 2 weeks I asked to have the rego check done.

Dealer rang to informed me that before they would do the rego I need to have both front lower control arms replaced along with the power steering rack and rear sway bar bushes.

had not noticed any noises from the rear and the D3 steers, drive sand brakes just fine.

front end does "clunk" a little going over speed bumps. D3 has done 94,000Km with about 10K of that off road, and is my daily drive car.

A little taken aback in that the dealer said it was "one of the worse" they had seen.

So after spending $17K on a new motor, 12 month later, they asking me to cough up another $3.5K.

Anyone got any suggestions for 3rd party replacements or do I stay with OE LandRover?

[101RRS]

While the issues you have are relatively common - why would you get a roadworthy done at a stealer - of course they are going to find plenty of things to charge you heaps of dollars - why were the issues only picked up as part of the rego check and not the service.

I would be seeking another opinion.

[justinc]

certainly, as Garry says and i might add that the clunk over bumps is more than likely only the sway bar bushes, not the whole lot:eek:

Second opinion is very important.

JC

[101RRS]

The other issue is that stealers tend to repair by replacement rather than try to diagnose issues so they will just replace parts whether serviceable or not until the problem is fixed.

D3s do however have a problem in this area - as JC said look at the easiert things first - sway bars, tie rod ends, suspension bushes and then rack - it would seem that tie rod ends can wear and if not dealt with the knocking can wear the rack.

Second opinion needed.

[Glynhouse]

I have just replaced both front suspension arms, tie rod ends, put a metal pan on and flushed the transmission twice (did it once drove it around for a day had the wheel alignment done and swapped oil again), full 100k service (all tranny oils water and brake fluid flush all filters including air) and on strong recommendation replaced the plastic water manifold on the motor.
I supplied the auto trans oil and metal pan they supplied everything else.
Total cost $2400.
D3. MY07. Front end nice and quite now.

DD
Edit. In Cairns L/R specialist not a dealer all genuine parts.

[adzee]

Eerily similar stats with my car... 94000 needing its service in 15 days, has had some weird noises up the front with a harshness to bumps. I am aware of these annoyances, and have dropped it in to Pedders (trusty mate to look over) and he mentioned Caster Bushes are another thing to worry about. Has anyone had experience with these?

Getting him to look over all rubbers on my rig, and assessing the vehicle before I take it to the stealers or a Landy specialist... will be interesting to see if there is anything else.

At this stage I will not be going genuine unless I cannot get 3rd party... trust all the whiteline performance stuff and happy to use them if they support my vehicle... will let you know how I go, but your feedback would be great!

[bbyer]

Perhaps you may wish to review the thread re A arms and the like per the link below. As mentioned in the post above, it is easier and cheaper to replace the whole assembly rather than just a few bits. You also get the newer updated arm design as well. It sounds like this is the first time change out on your 3 - you have done well I would say. It is normal to have to replace some bits at the rear as well.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/101399-lower-ball-joint-issues.html

One advantage of replacing the assemblies is that it is easier to do than just changing the bits so that is ideal for an independent.

Once done, a wheel alignment is recommended so you may have to return to the dealer for that.