A couple of battery questions...

[Disco Muppet]

Okay so, a few questions RE batteries in D2s.

1. Read a post in the latest 4WDA magazine about a bloke who tried jump-starting his ford SUV and fried the ECU into limp mode, and thus needed to have it reset by the dealer. Is this also the case with discos? The bloke from the magazine said he needed special surge blocking jumper cables at 3X the cost of regular ones :(

2. Anderson plugs - Saw a couple of posts about deefers with anderson plug jumper leads to the battery box, and the NRMA cars have them on their bullbars, so I was thinking of doing the same. Any particular reason that would stop it from being effective? It's just a PITA to go around to the passenger side and open the bonnet :)

3: Jump starting - Main or aux battery? Thinking main as it's a higher capacity. any thoughts?

4. Winch to battery - as above, main or aux?

Cheers
Muppet :)

[alien]

Okay so, a few questions RE batteries in D2s.

1. Read a post in the latest 4WDA magazine about a bloke who tried jump-starting his ford SUV and fried the ECU into limp mode, and thus needed to have it reset by the dealer. Is this also the case with discos? The bloke from the magazine said he needed special surge blocking jumper cables at 3X the cost of regular ones :(

2. Anderson plugs - Saw a couple of posts about deefers with anderson plug jumper leads to the battery box, and the NRMA cars have them on their bullbars, so I was thinking of doing the same. Any particular reason that would stop it from being effective? It's just a PITA to go around to the passenger side and open the bonnet :)

3: Jump starting - Main or aux battery? Thinking main as it's a higher capacity. any thoughts?

4. Winch to battery - as above, main or aux?

Cheers
Muppet :)
My thoughs...
1. I've heard of this before, I use standard leads but do the following.

Triple check they are hooked up right.
Earth to the motor on the rig to be started when ever posible.
Leave the doner rig hooked up and running for 5 minutes before trying to start.
Once started leave both rigs hooked up for 5 more minutes.
Turn headlamps on in both rigs and disconect the earth from the motor 1st.
Leave lamps on for 1 more minute then all is fine.
The theory is the headlamps take the serge, leaving the leads on stablizes the voltages.

2/3. This is done on trucks also:)
You would have to double check they are wired corectly!
Wire direct to the starter(if enough length on soliniod bolt) and engine block for best results.

4. I use the start battery as most do including emergency services.
There are a small group that sugest the 2nd battery but generaly the 2nd batt is not a high discharge type like the start battery.

Cheers, Kyle.

[1976_michelle]

what sort of relatively common batteries do we like for the D2? I bumped the light switch on mine I think and the things dead flat. It's on the charger but if it objects to the abuse it copped and dies I'll have to get another and I'm unsure of capacities etc and prefer to go in forearmed with knowledge rather than rely on whatever they want to sell me

[drivesafe]

Hi Muppet, I wouldn’t take to much notice of some of the crap you find in these 4x4 mags. You will only damage the ECU if there is something already amiss in the vehicle way before you try to jump start the vehicle.

As to the Anderson plugs and leads. You can use a 50 amp Anderson plug in jump leads but unless you intend to fit an isolation/marine battery switch in this lead, under the bonnet, you risk having UNPROTECTED live high current power in an exposed lead.

Even though it can be inconvenient to have to open the bonnet to access the cable and plug, it is a much safer and simpler set to just leave the lead and Anderson plug tucked away in the engine bay and open the bonnet if and when you need the lead.

Next, both winching and jump starting should always be done from the cranking battery.

While Kyle covered the basics, the following info is the correct way to carry out a jump start on any vehicle.

One point, you do not need to switch headlights or anything else on, when your start in normal circumstances, you create the same surges and spikes and you never have problems then so don’t waste your time, this is one of the many myths surrounding 12v situations.

Whether the crippled vehicle’s battery is flat or stuffed, it will still hold a surface charge, even if that is for just a few minutes. When jump starting a vehicle, you don’t need it to hold that surface charge for more than a few seconds.

The correct procedure for jump starting a vehicle is as follows.

Bring the donor vehicle as close as practical to the crippled vehicle.

Leave the motor running in the donor vehicle at all times.

Many vehicles can draw quite high currents with the ignition key still in the switch ( up to 40 amps ).

Turn the ignition off and remove the kew from the ignition of the crippled vehicle. This is not done to protect the vehicle’s electronics, this is done to remove any remaining current draw from the crippled vehicle’s battery.

Note, in many new vehicle, not until you remove the ignition key will all current loads be turned off and in some vehicle, like new Land Rovers, the computers will remain active for up to 3 minutes, while they go through shut-down routines, after the key is removed.

Next, connect the positive lead to the crippled vehicle’s positive battery terminal, then connect the other end of the positive lead to the donor vehicle’s positive battery terminal.

Then connect one end of negative lead to the donor vehicle battery’s negative terminal.

Now find a suitable earthing point in the crippled vehicle’s engine bay ( if the cranking battery is located there ). This earthing point should be a bolt or something of that nature.

Do not use any body parts as the earthing point.

Leave the vehicles connected with the donor vehicle’s motor running at a high idle, for at least 2 minutes but 5 would be better.

Once some time has elapsed, try starting the crippled vehicles motor.

If it does not start straightaway, turn the crippled vehicle’s ignition switch off and remove the key and give the crippled battery more charging time.

If the motor starts, remove the negative lead from both vehicles, then remove the positive.

By applying the negative lead last and removing the negative lead first, if you drop either end of the negative lead and it comes in contact with any body work or the motor, there will not be a short.

Then when removing the positive lead, again, as there no longer a closed ( negative ) circuit, you will not cause a short.

DO NOT switch the crippled vehicle’s motor off to test the crippled vehicles battery. If you are in the middle of nowhere and your motor is now running, don’t tempt fate.

[Disco Muppet]

Thanks drivesafe, some fantastic info!
Just on the anderson plugs re unprotected plug, I was thinking of having a waterproof container around it, as obviously being on the bar it would get the occasional dunking :)
However, how would I go about fitting an isolation switch in the lead?
I'm using this set
TVR JUMP START KIT CERBERA GRIFFITH TUSCAN CHIMAERA | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TVR-JUMP-START-KIT-CERBERA-GRIFFITH-TUSCAN-CHIMAERA-/350515969150?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CommercialVe hicleParts_SM&hash=item519c613c7e)

And following this guide.
How to make up Anderson plug jump leads for a land rover Defender or any vehicle - YouTube

Cheers
Muppet

PS apologies mods for link, but it's relevant :D

[alien]

what sort of relatively common batteries do we like for the D2? I bumped the light switch on mine I think and the things dead flat. It's on the charger but if it objects to the abuse it copped and dies I'll have to get another and I'm unsure of capacities etc and prefer to go in forearmed with knowledge rather than rely on whatever they want to sell me
If memory serves me corectly I think the TD5 needs a battery of 650CCA minimum.


Drivesafe,
I was told the idea of turning the headlamps on was to absorb any posible power spike when the jumper leads are removed.
Are you saying this isn't needed?

[OffTrack]

The original battery in the Td5 was a Delco Freedom 110ah/12V which was around 800CCA. It's probably a good idea to use a similar or higher rated battery, though I'm sure you can get away with less. I was running mine on a Supercharge Allrounder MRV48 for a week or so when my starter battery died - it's a massive 525CCA.

[1976_michelle]

petrol V8, having a juicier batterywon't do it harm anyway will it?

[alien]

petrol V8, having a juicier batterywon't do it harm anyway will it?
None at all, just means you can leave the radio on longer at the fotty/cricket and it'll still start:angel:

[1976_michelle]

I'll keep recycling this for now .... :D

I put the battery on charge over night and it started up fine today..
However.. is there a way to hook everything back up without having a heartattack when the alarm goes off (shut it off by having the key ready but already had heart attack by then) or is that just part of the deal.

also I don't think I did leave the lights on, which means I might be looking for a power drain somewhere. Perhaps I left the radio on but I can't recall. The thingies that hook to the terminals are crap (basically have to just hit them on to the battery, cannot undo them at all or tighten them further) so I'll get those changed over but is there anything else I can look at to see if power is going where it shouldnt? I don't think it's a preexisting problem though, its gone days without driving before and prefer to just put it down to operator error this time lol

[drivesafe]

Hi again Muppet and please ignore that video, the guy hasn’t got a clew what he is doing and to suggest that you need to cool the solder joint down with a wet rag is actually the very opposite if what you should do.

By rapid cooling a solder joint, particularly a large joint like that, you cause the solder to crystallise, which destroys the joint and then, even just a slight increase in temperature while in use, the joint can fail and the cable can be easily pulled out of the terminal.

There is a half-witted salesman in Brisbane who uses this very same video when he “instructs” people on how to solder Anderson terminals. So also be on your guard when getting advice from self-proclaimed sales “experts”


Hi alien and applying a load to any DC circuit will not stop or dampen spikes. Spikes are voltage by origin and an increase in current flow will not effect high voltage spikes.

Furthermore, there are loads of devices in your vehicle that regularly cause spikes but you don’t have electronic failures when they occur, and the reason for this is that every single ELECTRONIC device has spike protection built in and I mean every electronic device, not just those in vehicles.


Hi Michelle and how old is your battery, how often do you drive your vehicle and how long do you drive it when it is driven?

Also, it sounds like you disconnected everything. Was this to charge the battery?

[1976_michelle]

Hi again Muppet and please ignore that video, the guy hasn’t got a clew what he is doing and to suggest that you need to cool the solder joint down with a wet rag is actually the very opposite if what you should do.

By rapid cooling a solder joint, particularly a large joint like that, you cause the solder to crystallise, which destroys the joint and then, even just a slight increase in temperature while in use, the joint can fail and the cable can be easily pulled out of the terminal.

There is a half-witted salesman in Brisbane who uses this very same video when he “instructs” people on how to solder Anderson terminals. So also be on your guard when getting advice from self-proclaimed sales “experts”


Hi alien and applying a load to any DC circuit will not stop or dampen spikes. Spikes are voltage by origin and an increase in current flow will not effect high voltage spikes.

Furthermore, there are loads of devices in your vehicle that regularly cause spikes but you don’t have electronic failures when they occur, and the reason for this is that every single ELECTRONIC device has spike protection built in and I mean every electronic device, not just those in vehicles.


Hi Michelle and how old is your battery, how often do you drive your vehicle and how long do you drive it when it is driven?

Also, it sounds like you disconnected everything. Was this to charge the battery?
Hi, have only owned a month and apart from the several hundred kms to get it home from Sydney its only had 3 short runs to address issues to get its road worthy otherwise it sits in garage. Forgive me for I have sinned, it was over 7 days between the last two times I started it.. :angel:
Yes I disconnected everything so I could charge the battery last night (I could have just waited till today and got the racv man out to jump us but the registration doesnt take place until Wednesday, and though I have a transfer permit for getting to and from places required to do work for RWC, I didn't want to take it out for a minimum half hour jaunt to charge a battery up after a jump start
Should I have done it another way?

[bsperka]

petrol V8, having a juicier batterywon't do it harm anyway will it?

NO harm in having a bigger capacity battery, as when it gets old / degrades, it should have enough umphh to get you going, whereas one of a smaller capacity may not. Just make certain it's the right type and size, terminal locations etc.

[1976_michelle]

yep it is the wrong size, some supercheapa uto battery the caryard dropped in it, already known that it is too small and that might explain the connectors for the terminals not being good fit either, and the damn thing has water caps on it, Ithought al the batteries went to self maintaining now shows how cheap this one must have been

[drivesafe]

Hi Michelle and don’t blame the battery.

You need to either drive a lot more, or use the battery charger as much as possible till you do start driving more.

You do not need to disconnect anything from the battery before connecting a battery charger.

Just remember to connect the charger’s positive lead to the battery’s positive terminal first.

Then the charger’s negative lead MUST BE connected to an earth point AWAY FROM THE BATTERY.

Then, if it’s a multi stage charger, you just leave it connected till you need to drive it.

[1976_michelle]

Come wednesday the driving wont be an issue, 95km daily (or on the days its my turn to drive not the better half in his xr5) I just had to put off the registration until I could rake up the dosh again after spending so much the last 4 weeks on patio, flights, car RWC items etc etc

Might go buy a battery tomorrow anyway (would only be able to get a hold of century batteries today, unless anyone thinks those are good enough anyway)

Figured out why it screamed at me too, supposed to disarm it completely before disconnecting battery, but I couldnt disconnect it because the battery was flat already

[1976_michelle]

Land Rover Melbourne Car Batteries, Buy a Land Rover Car Battery online in Melbourne. (http://www.everybattery.com.au/landrover_auto_batteries.php)

Interesting... they consider a lesser battery required for the D3 than the D2 for the petrol v8 (730 CCA/135RC versus 950 CCA / 200 RC)
The one in the car is only 420cca/85rc) :/, that and the fact the clips are tightened to max and still have to be tapped on and off as there is no room for further tightening (potential for fluctuations when driving over corrugations which could fry something and also interfere with its ability to be recharged?) and the clamp doesnt fit over it properly as it is so small there isn't room between the water fill caps to nestle it down properly - now I'm pretty cheap, and always happy to get out of having to buy something, but in this case I think replacement is warranted ? even though the battery is still good (assuming I didnt kill it by it going flat)

[trevor]

Hi michelle. In regards to your battery draining Im not sure but my radio turns off after maybe 1.5-2 hours if the ignition isn't on. I know because when I work on the car I have the radio on. I'm not sure if maybe there is a setting you can change with a nanocom that can make the radio turn off after a certain amount of time. I haven't done this but perhaps the previous owner did.
That's all I've got on this topic, FYI I run an optima red top and yellow top with a colmbia overland dual batt tray that removes the jack (but requires a bit of modification to fit the ECU in a td5) and those have done me quite well over the years, has 750 CCA if required to jump start.

[OffTrack]

I'm not sure if maybe there is a setting you can change with a nanocom that can make the radio turn off after a certain amount of time. I haven't done this but perhaps the previous owner did.


FWIW the Nanocom doesn't do anything with the entertainment system or climate control. These systems aren't connected to the can-bus is any way.

[onebob]

...... FYI I run an optima red top and yellow top with a colmbia overland dual batt tray that removes the jack (but requires a bit of modification to fit the ECU in a td5) and those have done me quite well over the years, has 750 CCA if required to jump start.

Hi Trevor, PM sent....

onebob

[gavinwibrow]

Hi michelle. In regards to your battery draining Im not sure but my radio turns off after maybe 1.5-2 hours if the ignition isn't on. I know because when I work on the car I have the radio on. I'm not sure if maybe there is a setting you can change with a nanocom that can make the radio turn off after a certain amount of time. I haven't done this but perhaps the previous owner did.
That's all I've got on this topic, FYI I run an optima red top and yellow top with a colmbia overland dual batt tray that removes the jack (but requires a bit of modification to fit the ECU in a td5) and those have done me quite well over the years, has 750 CCA if required to jump start.
Trevor, care to expand on what you had to do with moving the ECU please?
I'm thinking of duplicating your system as 2 x yellow tops apparently won't quite fit - although I have a photo of 2 strapped together - just not sure if they were shoe horned into a D2 TD5 or other vehicle. Unfortunately too big to attach.

[Toppa]

Here is mine. Installed a couple of weeks ago. I struggled to get the battery tie down bar to fit and had to modify the holes to get it to work. The two optimas just fit.

50229

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[gavinwibrow]

Here is mine. Installed a couple of weeks ago. I struggled to get the battery tie down bar to fit and had to modify the holes to get it to work. The two optimas just fit.

50229

Sent from my GT-I9100T using Tapatalk 2
You little beauty - many thanks.

[onebob]

Thanks Toppa, thanks Trevor,

Are the Yellow tops model D34's ? - I'm going with the same Battery tray and are online atm researching the battery options. Just need to decide on a dual battery controller - what have you both chosen ?
onebob

[clubagreenie]

Tim, Michelles battery is partly to blame. The dealer had fitted a new battery but it's tiny. I could fit two into the box. Michelle, nothing wrong with century batteries.

I'm working on rebuilding the original battery box in alloy to fit two yellow tops in there. It'll fit but I need a spare box to make templates off. If anyone has a spare. It's ok for a V* but the TD with the ecu in the box would need to be relocated.

[Toppa]

Thanks Toppa, thanks Trevor,

Are the Yellow tops model D34's ? - I'm going with the same Battery tray and are online atm researching the battery options. Just need to decide on a dual battery controller - what have you both chosen ?
onebob

Optimas are D34's. I used traxides USI-160.

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[clubagreenie]

There's a couple of yellows that'll fit. I think the 34's are what I'm planning on fitting together, just use the 34a (i think it is) that has the terminals reversed for the second.

I'll second the USI 160, I have fitted it even though I'm yet to set up the second battery. I have replaced the original switch/led with a different setup in the D2's switch blank on the instrument binacle.

[trevor]

G'day guys, so my install looks exactly like toppa's with the two group 34 batteries. I didn't modify the battery tray, just the old tray that was there before. As Chris mentioned to me the ECU it is fairly unprotected now and open to the elements to an extent including water, mud and heat. I've been thinking of a way to protect the ECU and all i can come up with is similar to how it was before in that it was protected by the battery/jack tray. I'm thinking of measuring the ECU and perhaps making up a case for it and somehow protect those ever important red and black connectors, maybe a gromet like setup but It's still only in my head at this point lol.

I haven't had the setup the way it is for a while but light 4x4ing and everyday driving hasn't worried the ECU (knock on wood)

[trevor]

Ok new idea; had a quick search and others have used waterproof junction boxes that sparkies use. Now with the dual batt tray it is already a tight fix and I did read about extending the wires for the ECU? If that's the case it could be moved and I would suggest (inside the cabin if possible) but if not then towards the back left (drivers side) of the engine bay by the brake servo. From memory there seems to be a bit of space. So relocate it there, put in junction box and silicon it up around wires seals etc and securely attach it somewhere. If possible, it'd be out of the way, protected from heat mud etc and what's best... Piece of mind. Only issue is if the wiring look extenders do exist? I would think they would but haven't seem them. If they are you can be sure I will be doing this job soon

[1976_michelle]

yes justin I think the terminals are so small that that the clamps arent making a good connection and so not charging well, that coupled with me not driving it for over 10 days whilst it was unregistered and voila,

[trevor]

Seems like a £300 2m cable is the only option from eBay which seems to be the cheapest. I know many people will solder and extend the wires themselves but I'm too worried that I may damage the ECU or worse and there goes the money I saved. So... Rest assured this project will be completed, just not as soon as I would've wanted.

[clubagreenie]

So 2 x 34's fit in there without mods? by measuring (don't have a sample battery) I thought they'd come up short, but I also want to put the isolator and winch solenoid in there as well. Not bogged down with the ecu either.

[Tombie]

SO for all the modification...

You now have 2x 55AH batteries.... :)

When by running the large CAT battery in the factory position, and fitting a D34 or equiv in the back corner, then using Tim (Traxide) kit to link them you can have 110AH + 55AH (and the Traxide uses a portion off the factory battery first extending run time)... :D

Seems not a lot of thought is going into these mods people ;)

You're worse off for 'juice' then before you 'upgraded'...:eek: :angel:

[Tombie]

My Exide Orbital (equiv to D34) has run happily in the PS rear corner for 5 years....

But if heat concerns you, fit a bonnet scoop / vent or duct air to the location... Cheaper and easier....

[OffTrack]

SO for all the modification...

You now have 2x 55AH batteries.... :)

When by running the large CAT battery in the factory position, and fitting a D34 or equiv in the back corner, then using Tim (Traxide) kit to link them you can have 110AH + 55AH (and the Traxide uses a portion off the factory battery first extending run time)... :D

Seems not a lot of thought is going into these mods people ;)

You're worse off for 'juice' then before you 'upgraded'...:eek: :angel:

But at least they can lift the bonnet and tell their mates they have "Yellow Tops" and they'll recharge real fast even though they are flat now. :p

Personally can't see the point of installing two batteries that equal the capacity of the original and calling it an upgrade - "knobbing about" is all I can see going on.

[gavinwibrow]

Deleted after re-reading earlier posts

[gavinwibrow]

Well put Tombie
Pardon ignorance - CAT battery?

[Tombie]

Well put Tombie
Pardon ignorance - CAT battery?

This CAT...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/08/436.jpg


They do great batteries for Cars and 4WDs too...

Caterpillar Batteries for Demanding Environments (http://australia.cat.com/parts-service/parts/batteries)


More on AULRO here: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/122348-caterpillar-cat-agm-batteries.html#post1422933

[onebob]

SO for all the modification...

You now have 2x 55AH batteries.... :)

When by running the large CAT battery in the factory position, and fitting a D34 or equiv in the back corner, then using Tim (Traxide) kit to link them you can have 110AH + 55AH (and the Traxide uses a portion off the factory battery first extending run time)... :D

Seems not a lot of thought is going into these mods people ;)

You're worse off for 'juice' then before you 'upgraded'...:eek: :angel:

Exactly! ... this became apparent to me yesterday when researching online, and after downloading and studying all the OPTIMA product spec pdf's it was clear that in a single OPTIMA I could go nowhere near matching even half the capacity of what i already have installed - which is monster 180A/hr x 1000 CCA jobbie. Initially the dual battery tray option was attactive to me because i had already utilized the other convenient option by mounting an air compressor on my ARB second battery tray. So now it's back to the drawing board so as to speak.

onebob

[Toppa]

Yeh, i had originaly purchased an arb tray to sit next to the turbo but found the dual a/c pipes made it almost impossible to fit it there and i had a seven seater so the 3rd row option was also out - hence my best option was the two smaller optimas in the original battery location. It was more expensive but it works. It certainly wasnt done that way just because it 'looks' good.

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[clubagreenie]

So do CAT make a battery that can be paired in the original box, I have nil option of using the rear passenger under bonnet area and don't want to put it inside in the back either.

[Tombie]

So do CAT make a battery that can be paired in the original box, I have nil option of using the rear passenger under bonnet area and don't want to put it inside in the back either.

What have you got that consumes the PS space at the moment?

[Tombie]

Exactly! ... this became apparent to me yesterday when researching online, and after downloading and studying all the OPTIMA product spec pdf's it was clear that in a single OPTIMA I could go nowhere near matching even half the capacity of what i already have installed - which is monster 180A/hr x 1000 CCA jobbie. Initially the dual battery tray option was attactive to me because i had already utilized the other convenient option by mounting an air compressor on my ARB second battery tray. So now it's back to the drawing board so as to speak.

onebob

Bob, shuffle the compressor to the other side between the brake booster.. :)

[Tombie]

Yeh, i had originaly purchased an arb tray to sit next to the turbo but found the dual a/c pipes made it almost impossible to fit it there and i had a seven seater so the 3rd row option was also out - hence my best option was the two smaller optimas in the original battery location. It was more expensive but it works. It certainly wasnt done that way just because it 'looks' good.

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How long ago? I was led to believe the ARB tray has been updated to suit the Rear A/C units..

Someone on this forum (good luck finding the posts) has an ARB tray and rear A/C for sure...

And whilst yes, it works... You're could most likely have gotten away with a Low Voltage Cut-out device, and a huge single battery... And carried a jump pack in the back for those "oops" moments.. :cool:

[Toppa]

I think you are right. I remember a post on some one modifying a tray and either moving or manipulating the a/c pipes out of the way. I looked at doing it but i didnt want to risk cracking the a/c lines. ARB definately didnt have a tray to suit rear a/c when i rang them (.

Honestly if i was to do it again, id put a monster in the orig spot and rip out the rhs 3rd row seat and put the second there. 2 optimas are a pretty heavy weight to hang over 1 wheel.

Btw, i saw the fyrlyt's at the show todatt. They look pretty good, slightly smaller that i expexted but hard to comment on the light output when shown them in the middle of the day.

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[Tombie]

I think you are right. I remember a post on some one modifying a tray and either moving or manipulating the a/c pipes out of the way. I looked at doing it but i didnt want to risk cracking the a/c lines. ARB definately didnt have a tray to suit rear a/c when i rang them (.

Honestly if i was to do it again, id put a monster in the orig spot and rip out the rhs 3rd row seat and put the second there. 2 optimas are a pretty heavy weight to hang over 1 wheel.

Btw, i saw the fyrlyt's at the show todatt. They look pretty good, slightly smaller that i expexted but hard to comment on the light output when shown them in the middle of the day.

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Their output certain isn't :cool:

Have you got SLS? If not, Theres a battery position down there to be had for those looking for alternatives...

[clubagreenie]

Have compressor and catch can and breather manifold there so no more room for batteries

[crossy999]

Yes, the ARB battery bracket can fit on a D2 with rear AC; I installed one a couple of years ago. There is one pipe which needs to be carefully bent/manipulated to allow the bracket to sit in place, once done the rest is easy.
I can probably provide more details (from distant memory) if you are still interested in doing this.

[Fluids]

I've got an Optima D34 yellow in that corner, on an ARB tray.

It's a tight fit, but do-able .... search the D2 forum for the relevant posts with pic's (I can't find it at the moment).

[onebob]

Bob, shuffle the compressor to the other side between the brake booster.. :)

Yes, If it were only so easy - check out my MudPod install posts. i've got all the compressor wiring, compressor air intake* and some instrument connections coming thru the firewall on the LHS at the rear of the glovebox and i don't relish the thought of re doing any of it. Interesting suggestion of yours to utilise the SLS compressor bracket as a battery mount - I wonder about it getting a dunking on my next river crossing and the potential for the batt terminals shorting out whilst immersed. Is that a valid concern?

* i have the compressor drawing its (clean) air from inside the cabin, the intake is near the SLABS.

onebob