Replacement brake pads and discs independently?

[dukemasterpro]

Hi all. Got a service requirement coming up soon following a recent scheduled service.

Hoping someone will be able to help with confirming the correct part numbers and also any recommendations to order replacement brakes from overseas. Would prefer genuine parts unless there's a better reason to use aftermarket.


Need to do pads and discs on a 2009 D4 2.7 all round and I am keen to not hand over hard earned cash to the stealers and my independent service garage I use are happy to fit and also advise part numbers but it's good to be sure before ordering.

Thanks and have a good weekend

[DiscoWeb]

Mate,

I have been investigating the same thing, however i have the added dilemma of being quoted $1,720 to replace an out of warranty Electronic Parkbrake module (EPB ) which was replaced under warranty only 13 months ago. Yes that is right nearly $2k :eek:.

Remembering the high $AUD I searched around on Disco3.CO.UK forum site and found Nick (aka The Large One) who is the parts manager at Yeovil LR in the UK. I recall some people on the site getting gear from him recently, cubby box fridges I think.

Anyway, I PM'd him the bits I wanted and my Vehicle details and quoted back prices and the relevant part numbers.

Basically the quote for genuine LR parts being an EPB and Front and Rear Pads delivered to my door is circa $1K, about $250 of this cost is shipping !

So whilst I still have to pay for labour when I get things done I think I will be well ahead.

I will probably also check the price for replacement disks at the same time as the shipping costs will probably not change too much.

Worthwhile checking out I think.

Good luck.

George

[roamer]

Hey Duke
Just check the rear callipers, on those early D4s (AA513326-AA547440)
some were alluminium and some cast iron, (after AA547440 all cast iron)

Different p/n for pads,could save some heart ache if you order from O/S

Cheers Ken

[oldsalt]

Jeeeeez dukemasterpro - if that hill you're parked on in your avatar is anything to go by it's no wonder you need new brakes !!!:p

[Fatso]

Check out T.R.Spares at Padstow NSW . www.trspares.com.au (http://www.trspares.com.au) .

[101RRS]

I am needing to do the same on my car. I have heard you can get "dustless" pads but I have no idea on these - so any ideas on what brand they are, if they are effective and where to get them in Aust??

Thanks

Garry

[Geedublya]

Or Karcraft Karcraft Australia (http://www.karcraft.com.au/home.php)
I've bought OEM TRW pads form there in the past at a good price.

Also if you are after an handbrake module look to All 4 x Four in Kotara they have one on eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Handbrake-Cable-Actuator-Assembly-Land-Rover-Discovery-3-Range-Rover-Sport-Genui-/300688538271?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item46026efa9f) for $1003.00. I've also used them in the past without a problem.

[Geedublya]

Oops double post.

[dukemasterpro]

Jeeeeez dukemasterpro - if that hill you're parked on in your avatar is anything to go by it's no wonder you need new brakes !!!:p

Not called the Skytrek for nothing!:D

[dukemasterpro]

Hey Duke
Just check the rear callipers, on those early D4s (AA513326-AA547440)
some were alluminium and some cast iron, (after AA547440 all cast iron)

Different p/n for pads,could save some heart ache if you order from O/S

Cheers Ken

Hi Ken, how do you check the part numbers? Removing the old part?

[ADMIRAL]

I am needing to do the same on my car. I have heard you can get "dustless" pads but I have no idea on these - so any ideas on what brand they are, if they are effective and where to get them in Aust??

Thanks

Garry
The pads may allegedly be 'dustless' but if there is friction on your rotors, there will be dust. ( metal dust ) It pays to remember that a good proportion of the dust on your wheels from brake operation, is actually from the rotors. Another reason why the rotors don't last as long these days.
Bendix GCT's are a low dust pad, but are not ideal for use on slotted rotors if you have them fitted.

[adzee]

I paid $970 (Included installation) for all four corners pads and rotors, didn't go with genuine and they are doing me well. I haven't tested their intensity yet in hard braking as they are 500kms new, but give me a week in peak hour traffic and I may. :)

I would hate to think of the cost for all that from a stealer. Got them done through a suspension joint.

[CaverD3]

Don't use Delphi pads, squealed like crazy on mine, B&S changed the fronts for OEMs but rears go a little piggy at times. :D

[Tombie]

Like every vehicle I've owned the D4 will be getting slotted DBA rotors soon, combined with Bendix pads...

The improvement is noticeable...

And the DBA rotors last longer as the metal grade is better, meaning only the pads become the replacement for the next 3 sets....

[101RRS]

For the last 30,000km every specialist who has looked at my car has said I need to do the brakes, including rotors as soon as possible yet the car continues on without fault and the low pad light has not as yet come on.

Yesterday while getting new tyres the installer made a note that brakes and rotors are needed ASAP so I thought that as I had not checked them for a while it might finally be time.

The car has now done 65,000km and on checking the rears there is about 1/8" left on the pads and the fronts are a little more so it is time to change the pads. The pads are Ferodo TWR so I assume original. I put the vernier calipers in the disks and showed 28.2mm on the front and 18.2mm on the rears. Limits are 27-30mm on the front and 17-20mm for the rears so are 60% worn. Current pad and rotor wear would indicate 70,000km out of a set of pads and about 100,000km out of the rotors.

My local brake specialist quoted $1400 to do the lot :o using DBA rotors so I will put a set of pads in now and leave the rotors to the 96,000km service but checking their thickness at interim services.

So it would seem these vehicles are not as hard on brakes as I was led to believe.

Cheers

Garry

[CaverD3]

When I last looked DBA rotors were more than LR OEMs. :confused:
Check the price of LR ones as well.

[justinc]

For the last 30,000km every specialist who has looked at my car has said I need to do the brakes, including rotors as soon as possible yet the car continues on without fault and the low pad light has not as yet come on.

Yesterday while getting new tyres the installer made a note that brakes and rotors are needed ASAP so I thought that as I had not checked them for a while it might finally be time.

The car has now done 65,000km and on checking the rears there is about 1/8" left on the pads and the fronts are a little more so it is time to change the pads. The pads are Ferodo TWR so I assume original. I put the vernier calipers in the disks and showed 28.2mm on the front and 18.2mm on the rears. Limits are 27-30mm on the front and 17-20mm for the rears so are 60% worn. Current pad and rotor wear would indicate 70,000km out of a set of pads and about 100,000km out of the rotors.

My local brake specialist quoted $1400 to do the lot :o using DBA rotors so I will put a set of pads in now and leave the rotors to the 96,000km service but checking their thickness at interim services.

So it would seem these vehicles are not as hard on brakes as I was led to believe.

Cheers

Garry

garry, you are in the minority, most people don't drive like you, i have seen plenty with metal to metal contact at 40k, brake warning lamps on at 35k, and 99% requiring discs as they actually taper from the inboard surface, thinning out toward the outer rim so that if you try new pads on the old discs, most times you get a shorter pad life and the pedal feels worse. also it is imperative to remove the rear discs and clean/adjust the park brake shoes at the same time, or an EPB module will be next on the shopping list:(.

they aren't exxy for the whole set, even over the counter at LR less than $900. try getting brakes from a bmw dealer for an x5 for that!

i have used plenty of aftermarket pads and discs, about 60% of genuine prices but just as good ime.

jc

[Stuart02]

If there was plenty left in your rotors but the pads were gone, wouldn't you just machine the taper out of the rotors?

[justinc]

If there was plenty left in your rotors but the pads were gone, wouldn't you just machine the taper out of the rotors?

Not when the new rotors are so cheap, and you will find they will become so close to undersize, that they will warp easier/ quicker.

JC

[101RRS]

Not when the new rotors are so cheap,

My quote - $380 a pair for the front and $400 a pair for the rear - not so cheap.:(

[adzee]

I paid $970 fitted. Front and rear pads and rotors non-genuine.

Im pretty happy with that. Labour was $200.

[101RRS]

Changed the brake pads with no real issues - old pads were down to between 2 and 4mm just before the wear sensor would have kicked in. I measured the disk thickness wrong before and they are actually better than I measured (got confused with 1/2mm scale on the meter). So the rears were actually 18.7mm and the fronts 28.7mm no not even half worn.

I did have minor issues with the wear sensors though - the little clip on the rear sensor took off on its own never to be seen again when the sensor came out. Sits in Ok and I put on a dob of glue to help keep it there but will probably melt off when I have to use the brakes for any length of time. The front sensor actually had a bit missing out of its moulding but is went back OK albeit a bit loose.

Bottom line is there is nothing special about these brakes. I would also be wary of people telling you that the brakes need doing as a job lot rotors and brakes and check things out yourself.

Garry

[Dirty3]

Just had my front rotors done at 85000km. New pads also & new pads on rear only. Same time LR fount the brake booster gummed up with ??? Replaced under warranty so all good there. Cost of front rotors were around $200 a side plus pads around $120, so for $520 + labour I thought that was reasonable. Mate just had his Ford Territory done for $800.