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frostyblue
27th August 2012, 03:24 PM
Hi All, If I run an second battery in this location does that mean I need to run normal thickness batt cable to rear or is there another solution, I would run a solenoid to seperate charging only when engine is running, I really only need to run Waeco, I dont like the current setup with the factory 12v outlet as it is only powered with Acc on which means leaving it on like that overnite

cheers

Ken

discostu
27th August 2012, 09:02 PM
Hi Ken,

If you're only going to run a few accessories from your second batt, then you only need a cable big enough to carry the charge current, around 6mm would be fine IMO.
If you are going to run a set up where you can join both batts together, like for winching, then much larger cable will be required

Hope this helps
Stu

Sharkee
27th August 2012, 10:18 PM
I have my aux in the storage bin and ran heavy cable, cant remember exactly how many amp it was maybe 50 amp but ran same size + & - all the way back to the main battery. Earthed it on the earth points behind main battery and ran a fairly hefty fuse to + in case of body rub through. Spoke to auto elec and he recomended the size I have was fine although he did say if I wanted to use the aux battery to link/jump start I would need heavier cable.
My thread
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/155181-dual-battery-install-rear-storage-bin.html


Steve

frostyblue
27th August 2012, 11:23 PM
Thanks discostu and sharkee, ye sharkee i have read your post numerous times as your setup is the way i am gunna go, so you have pretty much answered my questions and will use 50 amp wire, my question but is if i have it connected to main batt via solenoid like the can type from ABR sidewinder and engine is running and i am using my winch will that try to pull power from second batt which means 130 + amps will be getting dragged back thru 50 amp cable, am i correct, the reason for the batt is only to run waeco 0.85 amp and occasional flouro when car is switched off, then charging when engine is running

Cheers

Ken

Tombie
27th August 2012, 11:54 PM
Put simply... Dont use a can type from anyone...

Get a proper system, contact Drivesafe on this forum or take a look at www.traxide.com.au (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/www.traxide.com.au)

Not a good idea to run a solenoid on a modern computer vehicle.

Traxide units are almost plug and play and damn good value.

Sharkee
28th August 2012, 07:51 PM
As Tombie said on LR's not a good idea to run those types of solonoids. Idealy use a solonoid that has all the protections, I think they call it voltage spike and surge protection. So protects computers from any unwanted spikes/surges. Also with these ones they dont open the circuit to charge the second battery until main is charged or to a point of near charged. So I'm thinking that if your winching and pulling big amps from the main battery the theoryetically the circuit should'nt be open to the second one. Please if I'm wrong on any of this someone correct me please.
I'm not 100% sure on whether the solonoid would be closed while winching and yes you would need to be sure on this I would think as you said if your cable was too small and they were actually linked while winching then the cable may not be rated high enough.
I intend down the track of adding a third battery to mine. Mounted under the bonnet with a seperate solonoid to run a winch. I will then also transfer all the extra bits and pieces off my deep cycle in the back to the one under the bonnet so my rear deepcycle runs fridge only. I will probably add a heavy duty switch to shut off the linking of the battery in the rear while winching in case what you said occurs and they do link.
My aux battery, I can get around 4-5 days (not in hot temps) running my 45l Waeco with very minimal driving.
The one thing I'm not happy with in my aux battery fit is the cable routes. I will change that in time.


Steve

Catmatt
28th August 2012, 08:18 PM
Hi All, If I run an second battery in this location does that mean I need to run normal thickness batt cable to rear or is there another solution, I would run a solenoid to seperate charging only when engine is running, I really only need to run Waeco, I dont like the current setup with the factory 12v outlet as it is only powered with Acc on which means leaving it on like that overnite

cheers

Ken

I installed a 2nd sealed battery into the L/H side rear compartment of my '02 D2 mainly 'cos I didn't have the actual compartment bins fitted and the AGM battery I found fitted perfectly within the space. I've never been a fan of fitting a 2nd battery within the engine compartment due to heat degredation and simply crowding and an already crowded engine bay so believe the rear compartment bins area is a great fit. I have winch, spotlights etc fitted.

I bought and fitted a complete Traxide kit (Bloody great value and quality components) and to date have had no problems whatsoever. Since the installation - I've fitted a Drifta kitchen, Weaco fridge, multi power points for outside and inside lights and charging points for phones, computers etc.

With the electrical load I have at present, I can get 2 days of full use without needing to breakout the solar cell to top up the charge level or start the car so am pretty happy with the installation.

IMHO - the rear bin area is a brilliant area for fitting electrical ancilliaries.

Cheers!

frostyblue
28th August 2012, 08:49 PM
thanks for all the comments guys and I will fit a correct solenoid, cheers and thanks again


ken

Mundy
31st August 2012, 12:54 PM
I had second batteries under the bonnet for several years but the heat kept blowing the batteries after a year to 18months or so. Recently put my second battery in rear passenger side bin. I ran 4 gauge cable (about 1cm across) to minimise voltage drop. I use a voltage sensitive relay to isolate the second battery, located in the rear bin too.

As has been noted, when you run your winch, the voltage drop cause by the high current draw should cause the isolator to open circuit so you are drawing off your main battery and alternator only. I have put a bypass switch around the isolator in case i need to start the motor from the second battery.

You must have a suitably sized fuse at both ends of the cable run (positive cable only). I don't envisage using the bypass to run the winch as the current draw will blow the fuses.

I also run my compressor off my the supply line to the second battery, before the isolator but after the fuse. I used to have the isolator under the bonnet next to the main battery but this compressor draws 30 odd amps and the voltage drop was causing the isolator to cycle on and off, which wasn't good.