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View Full Version : EAS wishlist? aftermarket design ideas



Wallyb
29th August 2012, 12:43 PM
I spend a lot of hours driving each weekend which means that my mind wanders a lot. My EAS has been playing up and I started to think about replacing the whole computer and valve block with my own creation. I know there are aftermarket options but they never do exactly what you want.

This is all hyperthetical as I have a few other projects to finish first but in the interest of thinking aloud and promoting some discussion..

Most of my thoughts at this stage have been around the electronics to control it all.

So what I am interested in is peoples thoughts on what features they would like if they could have a clean slate.

At this stage I am thinking along these lines.

Features to keep or add:

Variable hight
- can be continous or stepped
- automatic or manual hight adjustment for city/highway
- ability to vary each wheel hight independently by +-10%
- drop to bumpers mode

Emergency mode 1
- ability to isolate any bag
- ability to link all bags to one fixed "pressure"

Emergency mode 2
- isolate all electronics and allow some form of manual inflation of each bag

Option for a second independant air tank


Features to remove:

Auto leveling ( I never understood the value in this)

PeterAllen
29th August 2012, 02:23 PM
Hi Wallyb,
Whats the value in retaining the bump stop mode? I would prefer if a fault was detected to have the system freeze rather than dropping everything to the bump stops. Usually the fault has nothing to do with the airbags anyway. I personally would forget access mode although conceed some people may find it advantageous with low garages. Agree on the self levelling function.

Scouse
29th August 2012, 02:33 PM
Have a look at some of the recent posts by 'alltrans' as he's done a similar thing his EAS.

Wallyb
29th August 2012, 02:56 PM
Whats the value in retaining the bump stop mode?

It is not intended as a fault mode - but rather the ability to let all the air out of the bags. I could see it useful for use during repairs, bag replacement, calibrating the sensors etc.

PeterAllen
29th August 2012, 03:25 PM
Just run with a manually adjusted system with a preset level for highway standard and off road. If you want to drain the system then you can manually deflate or lower the car to suite for low access. Kill the self levelling when engine off, in fact freeze the system height when engine/ignition is off.

Wallyb
29th August 2012, 04:44 PM
Thanks Scouse, some more discussion around this subject here:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/classic-range-rover/155200-want-reinstate-eas-93rrc-3.html

FANTOM P38
30th August 2012, 04:52 PM
How about crosslinking bags on each axle to aid articulation when in offroad
situations would be great for traction. Only need to do on each axle not front to rear!

parasnoop67
30th August 2012, 06:25 PM
How would crosslinking bags affect cornering.
Wouldn't it make the vehicle lean more.

33chinacars
31st August 2012, 12:57 AM
How would crosslinking bags affect cornering.
Wouldn't it make the vehicle lean more.

In a word yes very dangerious at any speed. But if limited to 20 -30 kph might work O'k . Off road only

Gary

Wallyb
31st August 2012, 08:44 AM
How about crosslinking bags on each axle to aid articulation when in offroad
situations would be great for traction. Only need to do on each axle not front to rear!


In a word yes very dangerious at any speed. But if limited to 20 -30 kph might work O'k . Off road only


It would be easy to implement, including putting a speed overide.

What are the disadvantages of linking all 4 bags? I would have thought that keeping equal pressure on all wheels would be an advantage?

Keithy P38
31st August 2012, 09:14 AM
I believe someone here tried cross linking in the past as an experiment, very dangerous... For hardcore off roading it would be great, for normal dirt and high range duties what we already have is quite competent!

superquag
31st August 2012, 09:26 AM
In addition to my comments/weird ideas of the link... you could add a panel of interlocked push-buttons to give you:-

L-R connection on each axle.

F-R connection on EACH side, either LEFT or RIGHT sides, or simply BOTH. This would imitate the ride of 2-tonne Morris 1500 or Austin 1800.:p:p:p

Crowning glory ... "X" linking each diagonal corner (Left-Front to Right- Rear etc) to keep the body more level when the axles are crossing...

Rather than a pickle-switch, a trigger for UP and a top-mounted button for DOWN would be intuitive.

Also, the now-redundant suspension height sensors could drive four vertical bar-graph LEDs.

I'd suggest either a bigger tank (or an additonal one) or bigger, or another compressor, 'cos you'll be playing with the air a LOT ! :D

As a silent alternative, - and I have'nt investigated the logistics apart from price ($300 or so last year) - Use an aqualung tank... with a regulator to drop from 100,000/whatever psi down to 150. Some sand-drivers use them for Very Quick tyre re-inflation. Refilling was around $35 when last checked.

Valves are relatively cheap...

4V210-08 DC 12V 2 Position 5 Way 5 Solenoid Valve Connected Base Muffler | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4V210-08-DC-12V-2-Position-5-Way-5-Solenoid-Valve-Connected-Base-Muffler-/300752705767?pt=AU_Business_Industrial_Industrial_ Supply_MRO&hash=item46064218e7)

As Keithy said, linking side to side is ONLY for off-road at sensible speeds. Or lack or speed...

Wallyb
31st August 2012, 06:48 PM
As a silent alternative, - and I have'nt investigated the logistics apart from price ($300 or so last year) - Use an aqualung tank... with a regulator to drop from 100,000/whatever psi down to 150. Some sand-drivers use them for Very Quick tyre re-inflation. Refilling was around $35 when last checked.

Valves are relatively cheap...

4V210-08 DC 12V 2 Position 5 Way 5 Solenoid Valve Connected Base Muffler | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4V210-08-DC-12V-2-Position-5-Way-5-Solenoid-Valve-Connected-Base-Muffler-/300752705767?pt=AU_Business_Industrial_Industrial_ Supply_MRO&hash=item46064218e7)

...


SCUBA tank 3-4000psi .. (about 80cubic feet of air from memory)

I was looking at the very auction item this morning!

philmoon
1st September 2012, 05:19 AM
ok so was going to start own post but its eas so why not....
Yesterday I discovered that if you press the inhibit switch then select the height you can select freeway height ........ Makes the car a more sporty feel round the city thats for sure lol. Was I the only person who didnt know about this brill feature ?

Keithy P38
1st September 2012, 09:23 AM
In short, yes!

It mentions this in the owners manual!

PaulP38a
4th September 2012, 12:02 AM
Hardy, the PO of my blue P38 did a cross-link setup on the EAS. He reckoned it was diabolical, even at low speeds, and removed it long before he sold the car to me in 2008.
I still have the switches on the dash but have re-purposed them to run the LED driving lights. The solenoids for cross-linking are long gone.

Cheers, Paul.

poleonpom
4th September 2012, 05:05 PM
I'd like mine to work.

poleonpom
4th September 2012, 05:08 PM
Hardy, the PO of my blue P38 did a cross-link setup on the EAS. He reckoned it was diabolical, even at low speeds, and removed it long before he sold the car to me in 2008.
I still have the switches on the dash but have re-purposed them to run the LED driving lights. The solenoids for cross-linking are long gone.

Cheers, Paul.

Would a fore and aft setup work better, like an electronic version of the Citroen 2CV setup?

PaulP38a
4th September 2012, 11:17 PM
Would a fore and aft setup work better, like an electronic version of the Citroen 2CV setup?

A courageous project I'd think. Probably less dangerous than the side-to-side-see-saw-fall-over effect of L-R cross-linking. Would be amusing to watch taking speed humps at speed, or in most off-road situations.

superquag
5th September 2012, 12:53 AM
Connecting fore & aft would cause a reaction to speed humps like a (two+ tonne) Morris 1500... both ends go up/down as each traverses the speed-hump. :p

wayneg
5th September 2012, 12:59 PM
As a silent alternative, - and I have'nt investigated the logistics apart from price ($300 or so last year) - Use an aqualung tank... with a regulator to drop from 100,000/whatever psi down to 150. Some sand-drivers use them for Very Quick tyre re-inflation. Refilling was around $35 when last checked.



Scuba tanks can be refilled from $2 to $10 depending on the dive shop. Trouble with Scuba tanks is they MUST be tested every year, Thats the $35 figure inc refilling. The Scuba regulator 1st stage that connects to the tank releases air at about 140psi ( I think correct me if I am wrong )