Fuel pump rebuild

[Defender Mike]

I have searched and gone through most of the files but cant find anything on the electric fuel pumps. I know my new series 1 has a fuel pump problem and I thought I may as well order the bits if i knew which bits wear out etc. Does anyone have any info on this.. I imagine theres is a rubber diaphram that gives up after a while. I am getting manuals and books etc with the car .:) Any help apreciated.

Mike

[dennisS1]

The SU pump is pretty easy to rebuild. The main bit that will be perished is the diaphragm rubber, this can be purchased as a replacement or you can obtain a bit of rubber from a fuel injection service and replace it yourself. The old pumps the washers that hold the diaphragm to the shaft are threaded and with a bit of care you can remove the lower one cut a new diaphragm and replace it.
Next reface the 2 Brass disks with 2000 wet and dry and a little valve past plus the seats.
Clean up or replace the points, the reassemble following the manual, this is very important if you want it to work.
Have rebuilt a number of units if you need a hand just pm me.
Dennis

[Drew Parker]

Dennis
Is there any source of the sealed coil for the SU pump?
My pump is in top condition except for the wiring from this sealed unit and I would hate to have to switch over to a modern pump beneath the floorboards if I can avoid that route.
thks
drew

[russellrovers]

Dennis
Is there any source of the sealed coil for the SU pump?
My pump is in top condition except for the wiring from this sealed unit and I would hate to have to switch over to a modern pump beneath the floorboards if I can avoid that route.
thks
drew
hi drew kev baker classis parts sells new ones theres a guy in nsw who converts to electronic your old one it still looks the same i have lost his number perhaps somebody has it jim

[wrinklearthur]

I had a pump stop working somewhere on the track north of Cooktown ( 1973 ) and was going again in about five minutes, How?

Turned the ignition off, as sparks and petrol are better meeting inside the engine.
Undo the nut holding the power wire onto the pump and the locknut holding the cap that goes over the points, this exposes the bits to fix, while working on the pump watch for the brass pin that the points pivot on doesn't slid out.

Clean the points ( using a folded piece of wet and dry emery paper is good, or something like a nail file if your stuck ) as this is nearly always the reason that these pumps stop.

The adjustment of the stroke that causes the spring to go over centre that opens the points is the next step, this is something that needs doing carefully as not to damage the diaphragm.

Petrol will come out in the next part of operation and placing a large rag under the pump body can be used to catch the spill.

Unscrew the five screws that hold the body of the pump onto the base, there is a cork gasket between the pump base and a spacer plate, first making sure that the earth wire that goes between the land rover chassis and the body of the pump, is out of the way and is still in good condition ( important! ).

Then with a sharp pocket knife or similar, starting at the hardest side first, continue to carefully prise away the diaphragm from the pump base, things can tear if you try to pull the pump off without freeing the diaphragm from the base first.

All going well you should then have the pump body in your hand, then separate the other side of the diaphragm from the pump body, next loosen the screw holding the blade portion of the points support and move the contact aside and do the screw back up.

Using your thumb, press the centre of the washers supporting the diaphragm,
pushing the interconnecting rod which should then snap over the points support opening the points.

Looking at the base side of the diaphragm rotate the diaphragm clockwise until, when depressing it's centre the points stop throwing open, move the diaphragm back anti clockwise one hole at a time until the points start operating again, then rotate the diaphragm another two thirds of a turn anticlockwise ( four holes ), finish by aligning the closest screw holes up up with the ones in the diaphragm.

To reassemble, the diaphragm should be in a position that it's in tension when assembled, this is simply done by depressing the diaphragm opening the points and slipping a match or stick under the rocking support to hold the connecting rod in the operating position.

I don't use any sealant when reassembling, but do the screws up in a diagonal pattern lightly at first and then go around again until tight. ( something like Kopr-Kote on the screws is a good idea to stop the screws binding into the aluminium )

Remove the stick from under the points and reassemble the rest of the pump.

Five minutes to adjust and gone.

[Defender Mike]

Thanks Wrinklesarthur a very detailed explanation and you remember all that from 1973 north of cooktown well done.
Mike

[wrinklearthur]

Thanks Wrinklesarthur a very detailed explanation and you remember all that from 1973 north of cooktown well done.
Mike

Long term memory is fine, but the short term memory well, maybe too many petrol fumes! :confused:
.

[andy_d110]

Burlen Fuel Systems in the UK can supply all the parts you may need. I recently bought a diaphragm kit and electronic controller conversion to do away with the points completely.

Burlen - Burlen Fuel Systems Ltd (http://www.burlen.co.uk/)

Good prices, good service.

[Defender Mike]

Thanks Andy

Do you want the 107 in Milicent? I'm driving over to pick mine up this weekend and Monday and Tuesday and hopefully not Wednesday!

[andy_d110]

No thanks Mike. I am saving my get out of jail free cards for other things!

Good luck with your trip, feel free to PM me the details of any 48's or 49's you find on your journey :eek:

Going off the despatch books compared to what vehicles are known of, there must still be lots more out there. Keep your eyes open!

Andy.

[JayBoRover]

Good luck with your trip, feel free to PM me the details of any 48's or 49's you find on your journey :eek:

Get to the back of the line mate! ... Or at least behind me;):angel:

[Northern Lander]

The Midel company in Australia can supply brand new pumps in + earth, model AUA66EP at $239, a little expensive but I have had one on my 52 model since 1998 and it hasnt missed a beat so they are good and dont play up like points.

https://sumidel.site-trust.net/cat/index.cgi/shopfront/view_product_details?category_id=22278&product_id=1540380

Wardy

[Defender Mike]

No thanks Mike. I am saving my get out of jail free cards for other things!

Good luck with your trip, feel free to PM me the details of any 48's or 49's you find on your journey :eek:

Going off the despatch books compared to what vehicles are known of, there must still be lots more out there. Keep your eyes open!

Andy.

I am sure it will attract some attention on the way back with the 90 towing the series 1. What will I do if I someone offers me a 48/49 thats up in their barn back of whoop whoop SA. :)
Mike

[andy_d110]

I am sure it will attract some attention on the way back with the 90 towing the series 1. What will I do if I someone offers me a 48/49 thats up in their barn back of whoop whoop SA. :)
Mike

Well if you find yourself in that situation, simply push the 88" off and winch the 48 on.

That makes sense to me :D

[series1buff]

Hi

The armature ( coil ) is easy to remove from the main body .I've found two versions of the armature windings: one type has a enamelled coating over the copper wire, this tends to flake off after many years and cause shorting . The other type has cotton insulation on the copper wire . It would be easy to rewind the coil , measure the wire diameter and length and its resistance .

Morris Minors used the same low pressure same pump . Not sure which model, the 'low light' or the later type with the OHV engine .

BTW genuine SU rebuild kits are available from Gower and Lee in the UK , great to deal with and not expensive .

Mike

[Defender Mike]

Thanks Mike we gravity fed the carby last night to drive it on the trailer. Worked well but the main jet seems to be clogged as you would expect sitting around for 5 Years. Started easily and idled on primary jet ok just wouldn't rev .50873 bit hard to see with bonnet up.50874


50875

Nothing like playing with cars after driving 3000 ks non stop at 10 o'clock at night .

Mike

[Defender Mike]

I pulled the pump apart cleaned the points reasembled and it works The diaphram was ok. When I pulled it apart the earth wire screw was at the 8 o'clock position when reasembled it was at the 6 oclock which is impossible to do the screw up. I pulled it all apart again and I had the internal holes lined up in the correct position. Whoever had it apart last must have reassembled it incorrectly hence the no go.

Mike:)

[back_in]

Hi
can be got for 52 Quid plus postage from UK
+ or - earth
these are electronic
or get some one like me to rebuild your org pump it is simple not rocket science
cheers
Ian