Tdi flat spot/ injector flush

[Nundle]

Hi all
I have a 98 300tdi and since purchasing have noticed a flat spot around 2000rpm and also occasional jerkyness at certain points (mainly staying on 50 on a slight incline). There are a few occasions where it accelerates smoothly (generally taking off from give way sign after a constant 100-110km/h run) but it reverts back to its old ways quickly. I haven't changed the fuel filter and not sure when it was last done. I consulted the Haines which pointed to the injectors. Asked local mech about it and they recommended an injector flush. My questions are: would this be a waste of money or is there a way to positively identify the problem at home? Cheers

[justinc]

first thing check that the fuel sediment bowl isn't brimming with bacteria/ diesel jelly. it is out of sight out of mind to most mechs not familiar with landies. it is located on the inner chassis rail bolted to a bracket attached to the rh rear upper shock mount bolts.

do not attempt to undo the nylon drain plug, use a 7/16th" ring spanner and remove the central bolt down from the top, take off the whole bowl and clean it out.

jc

[roverrescue]

JC,
would you suggest lift pump or IP as the next port of call if Sedimeter and Filter are reasonable???

S

[justinc]

JC,
would you suggest lift pump or IP as the next port of call if Sedimeter and Filter are reasonable???

S

yup, and don't forget that stupid plug on the ip stop solenoid:mad:


did you get my message about the spring?

jc

[Nundle]

thanks for the info justinc. that will be on my list of weekend jobs. It seems straight forward. do i need to bleed the system afterwards? It is covered in muck that is hard to remove so my guess is it might bring up some surprises.

[justinc]

no need to bleed these tdi's via the lever method, just clean out the sedimenter and refit, crank the key and allow it to idle. it'll get a bit rough as the air gets to the pump, but don't be tempted to touch the throttle. if it stops just crank it again till it goes. in about 15 secs the revs will even out and bleeding is complete:). then replace the engine bay filter, and repeat the procedure. if you do both at once, it takes longer for the air to be bled out.

jc

[Blknight.aus]

most likely causes are the filters but if theres any moisture coming from the hinge of the priming lever then the lift pump is not playing nice.

Ive given up on replacing them and fit a facet style pump wired up off of the iP solenoid bolted to the wing then just fit a blanking loop to the normal lift pump.

The lift pumps are good in general but just dont seem to like what I use in place of diesel.

take the lines off of the sedimentor and filter housings and blow them backwards with 100PSI of compressed air, you'll be impressed at what will come out of them.