standard height and slotted swivels

[Vern]

At the moment I'm rebuilding my diffs, new bearings, axles, diff, seal, brakes etc.. to run the springs I want I have to slot my swivels for castor. Question is, as I only want to have it apart once, how will it drive with standard height springs?
I need standard springs to get through the engineering, but as I said, once done, I don't want to have to strip the diffs again to change the swivels when I fit my lifted springs:confused:

[Slunnie]

Wouldn't that just increase the self centering force of the steering?

[Vern]

yeah thats what i thought

[uninformed]

Vern, what tyres are you running. I think I have read that guys run more castor on bigger tyre'd comp trucks. If 3 degrees is ok on 29s and 32s I'm thinking a couple more may be ok if running 32s or bigger.

How much will you be driving it before the change?

[Vern]

will only drive it to get engineered and roadworthy, then change it all. Running the same springs as on my old rangie, that had 4.5" front bumpstop clearance and the swivels were rotated. Stock tyres for engineering, then only running 285/75, downsizing from 35's. (for now):)

[wrinklearthur]

Vern, what tyres are you running. I think I have read that guys run more castor on bigger tyre'd comp trucks. If 3 degrees is ok on 29s and 32s I'm thinking a couple more may be ok if running 32s or bigger.

How much will you be driving it before the change?

Hi Serg

You have missed something in your process, to fit large diameter tyres under the guards, there has to be more clearance available.

The extra clearance for the large tyres is achieved by extending the working position or length of the springs. The other end of the radius arm pivots on a chassis outrigger, that mean that as the axle housing is moved down and away from it's original position, the radius arm rotates in a arc centred on that point on the chassis.

As the arc increases, the king pin caster angle also comes around that pivot point, as the pivot is fixed in respect to the centre line of the radius arm, slotting the flange holes does allow the caster to be adjusted to varying spring requirements and can be done at any time to suit the spring setup.

Personally, I don't like the idea of removing any material from the flanges to adjust the caster angle, instead would look at some after market caster corrected radius arms, but doing this does cause the diff pinion angles in respect to the front drive shaft to increase with the likelihood of binding problems with the universal joints.
.

[Vern]

Bugger all material gets removed, they are only slotted a few mm. I could go the arm way, just swap out the front arms when done with the engineer, but i prefer the swivel method.

[Slunnie]

Bugger all material gets removed, they are only slotted a few mm. I could go the arm way, just swap out the front arms when done with the engineer, but i prefer the swivel method.
Whats the arm method?

[uninformed]

Hi Arthur, I'm well aware what's going on. I know I didn't go into detail, but what I was getting at was these guys are adjusting castor for their lift AND adding more for the larger tyres.

What is the reason you don't like the idea of slotting?

Slunnie, I'm guessing cranked RA

[rick130]

Slot them and be done with it.

All that happens as you've guessed is that steering self centring is increased and steering weight increases.
Basically you are increasing camber as the wheel turns. There is some jacking effect, but not enough to be an issue.

On certain race cars we used to run up near 10*, they were a bitch to steer, but the increased front end bite was worth it.

It's not an issue with power steering.

PS, if anyone has an issue with slotting, you can always scotch key the swivels too.
Potential, unlikely problem solved.

[POD]

You're only talking about a couple of degrees and you're only planning to drive it like that for a short time, personally I wouldn't give it a second thought. There are probably hundreds of Rangies out there (not to mention all the other makes) with caster out of whack in the other direction that will never get corrected, so you will not be the biggest malefactor on the road by a long chalk.
Also, not only is there a small amount of material removed from the flanges, but if you add a couple of bolts to prevent it rotating, it will be stronger than original. Mine now has 9 bolts in each flange in place of the original 7, and vehicles 2 years earlier had 6.

[POD]

By the way, if you don't have access to a mill with a rotary table, and are planning to do the slotting on a drill press like I did, I have a jig that I made to hold and rotate the swivels on the drill press table, you are welcome to use it.

[Vern]

Whats the arm method?
cranked front control arms:angel:

[Vern]

By the way, if you don't have access to a mill with a rotary table, and are planning to do the slotting on a drill press like I did, I have a jig that I made to hold and rotate the swivels on the drill press table, you are welcome to use it.
Thanks Pete, but for the time it will take me to get around to doing it, i will be better off paying someone to do it. Keen??:D.
Oh and i have a box of Brake bits here if your still interested, i finally got around to pulling them off.(bits from my LSE):)

[POD]

If you're paying someone to do the job, make sure they have the aforementioned mill with rotary table. It was a cow of a job in the drill press but hey, the price was right.
Can't have too many EAS spares, must catch up some time.

[justinc]

Slot them and be done with it.

All that happens as you've guessed is that steering self centring is increased and steering weight increases.
Basically you are increasing camber as the wheel turns. There is some jacking effect, but not enough to be an issue.

On certain race cars we used to run up near 10*, they were a bitch to steer, but the increased front end bite was worth it.

It's not an issue with power steering.

PS, if anyone has an issue with slotting, you can always scotch key the swivels too.
Potential, unlikely problem solved.

definately, makes for a very safe installation and takes a few minutes only per side. i used hex key grub screws, looks neat too.

jc

[Vern]

If you're paying someone to do the job, make sure they have the aforementioned mill with rotary table. It was a cow of a job in the drill press but hey, the price was right.
Can't have too many EAS spares, must catch up some time.
Will just send them to LRA and get Andrew to do them, did my last set and did a good job.

[justinc]

Will just send them to LRA and get Andrew to do them, did my last set and did a good job.

yes, thats where i sent mine.

jc

[slug_burner]

So what is the point of getting engineering and roadworthy done and then change the configuration afterwards?

Why don't you turn up for the engineering and roadworthy with the vehicle as you intend to set it up for use?

[Vern]

because it won't pass, or may'be it will at a great expence and a lot more work.

[slug_burner]

So your car will not be roadworthy and will have changes that have not been engineered! Why engineer it in the first place?

[Vern]

so do you run standard height springs and standard size tyres on yours?

[Matplat]

This is something I have often wondered about, I am still on standard size tyres because of it.

How do you keep your insurance intact if you run illegal tyres and lift? And why do the police never pull people up for it?

[uninformed]

Guys this is the tech. Section. Let's leave it at that. If you want to discuss personal opinions on legalities, maybe the soapbox is a better section.

Cheers
Serg