Defender Front Wheel Bearing

[DeanoH]

Pulled the front hubs off today and this is the front RHS outer wheel bearing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1091.jpg

An absolute mirror finish on the inner half of the cup and a matching wear pattern on the race.

Why is it so ? :confused: and should I replace it ?

The wheel bearing was loose but not excessively so, the outer lock nut was very loose, wouldn't even call it hand tight. The only thing that held it on was the tab washer. Very thankful it wasn't the LHS. :eek:

Deano :)

[Reads90]

Well as you have it apart then replace them

But if you want to put them back on and tighten them, then get your self ready to change them soon, and keep an eye on them.

[Blknight.aus]

Pulled the front hubs off today and this is the front RHS outer wheel bearing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/1091.jpg

An absolute mirror finish on the inner half of the cup and a matching wear pattern on the race.

Why is it so ? :confused: and should I replace it ?

The wheel bearing was loose but not excessively so, the outer lock nut was very loose, wouldn't even call it hand tight. The only thing that held it on was the tab washer. Very thankful it wasn't the LHS. :eek:

Deano :)

mis matched bearing and cup angles will usually cause this.

yes replace it

[DeanoH]

mis matched bearing and cup angles will usually cause this.

yes replace it

Thanks Dave

Just a thought. The inner and outer bearings are the same (unlike most vehicles). Usually you don't have to worry about keeping the inner and outer races separate as they're different sizes. 'What if', the inner and outer races were inadvertantly swapped at a previous bearing grease ?
Might be the answer ? or is this wear pattern common with a loose bearing, though I've never seen one like this before.


Deano :)

[nedflanders]

As Taper roller bearings are adjustable unlike cars that have roller bearings that are just torqued up then I wouldn't have thought it mattered if they had been swapped, I think poor adjustment is more the problem.

Its a real shame Land Rover decided to go from an adjuster nut and locknut set up to shims, makes it a real pain in the arse getting the right shims now.

[rick130]

[snip]

Its a real shame Land Rover decided to go from an adjuster nut and locknut set up to shims, makes it a real pain in the arse getting the right shims now.

I'm guessing it's easy enough to convert TD5's on to the old, easy to adjust setup. (unless there isn't a shoulder for the outer cone to seat against now ?)

[Blknight.aus]

As Taper roller bearings are adjustable unlike cars that have roller bearings that are just torqued up then I wouldn't have thought it mattered if they had been swapped, I think poor adjustment is more the problem.

Its a real shame Land Rover decided to go from an adjuster nut and locknut set up to shims, makes it a real pain in the arse getting the right shims now.

swapping them inside the hub doesnt matter so long as you swap the shells over at the same time (if you ever watch me servicing hubs I do them one at a time and ziptie the hub seal to the inner bearing so you can not mistake them)

swapping bearings in races is always a bad plan once the bearings have been used.


If they were that far out of adjustment that the bearings were running where indicated youd have eaten the brakes, fretted or snapped the axle at the splines, swarfed the bearing and had the worst wheel wobble you could imagine.

[Graeme]

I'd be suspecting a damaged roller and would definitely replace both bearings due to expected grease contamination.

[DeanoH]

Thanks all. I'm giving both bearings (inner and outer) the flick. The other wheels (so far) have been fine. :)

I've serviced/replaced a lot of wheel bearings but never seen a cup this 'shiny' before.

Deano :)

[wrinklearthur]

Thanks all. I'm giving both bearings (inner and outer) the flick. The other wheels (so far) have been fine.

One out all out, fit with new seals and while you are at it make sure the breather bolt hasn't corroded inside it self .

Keep the good ones as spares and do as Dave said by zip tying the cup and it's matching cone together.

With the new bearings then serviced with fresh grease and a adjustment after fitting new hub seals, done every time you change the brake pads, how long would you expect them to last?

My guess is about 200,000 kilometres.

[landy]

Does anyone know if its possible to convert the bearings to the adjustable type by simply removing the spacer and replacing the single stacked nut for the earlier double nut version. I believe the part numbers for the stub axles are the same for the 89MY and the 99MY vehicles.

Nino.

[Blknight.aus]

it is

[DeanoH]

One out all out, fit with new seals and while you are at it make sure the breather bolt hasn't corroded inside it self .

Keep the good ones as spares and do as Dave said by zip tying the cup and it's matching cone together.

With the new bearings then serviced with fresh grease and a adjustment after fitting new hub seals, done every time you change the brake pads, how long would you expect them to last?

My guess is about 200,000 kilometres.

Can't argue with your logic here Arthur, but where do I start and where do I stop ? I've got all four hub assemblys in bits at the moment and have replaced rear pads with rotors near minimum and am considering replacing front rotors (also near minimum but pads OK). Perhaps I should just bite the bullet and do the lot, pads, rotors, bearings and seals and get it over and done with. But the cost does add up, might drop Roverlord a line and see how much.:)

Deano :)

[Blknight.aus]

Its only brakes......

Do the lot, who cares about the price.

[weeds]

Can't argue with your logic here Arthur, but where do I start and where do I stop ? I've got all four hub assemblys in bits at the moment and have replaced rear pads with rotors near minimum and am considering replacing front rotors (also near minimum but pads OK). Perhaps I should just bite the bullet and do the lot, pads, rotors, bearings and seals and get it over and done with. But the cost does add up, might drop Roverlord a line and see how much.:)

Deano :)

If the disc are in good nick than just do the pads, leave the discs till next pad change

[wrinklearthur]

If the disc are in good nick than just do the pads, leave the discs till next pad change

I go with weeds, if the discs are worn but still serviceable, I would continue to use them until the next pad change.
.

[DeanoH]

Thanks all for the input.

I'm inclined to go with the bearings/seals and keep an eye on the rotors.

Re-measured the rear rotors off the vehicle 11.95mm and 11.90mm. With the rotors off you can read min size 13 mm in the casting on the back (can't read it with rotors on), LR manual says 12 mm and DBA rotor chart says 11.7 mm minimum.

'Pick a box', :confused:

For front solid rotors DBA says 13 mm minimum, LR says 12 mm and for vented front rotors both agree on 22 mm. Mine are both 22.1 mm.

Be nice if it was clear cut. Normally wouldn't take much notice of the rotor manafactures as they are in the business of selling new rotors, but DBA's 11.7 mm sort of goes against the trend.


Deano :)

[eddy]

Nino,I think you need one of these kits per wheel eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/260734082059'ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649) If you want to go oil filled use double lipped seals, part no RTC3511?

[DeanoH]

Thanks eddy, I've ordered these seals today. RTC3511, your link points to very nice leather steering wheels etc. :D

I also bit the bullet and ordered a complete set of wheel bearings.

Deano :)

[eddy]

Deano,Sorry wrong link,try eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221008816398'ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649) for the part numbers.