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View Full Version : advice on rebuilding salisbury and a few other issues



clintox
13th September 2012, 08:37 PM
well just returned home from a 6000km trip to Cape Levique and back down the coast in our 130 had a few small issues I need help with:
1 - vehicle wont shut off via key or removing power to solenoid(had to stall engine) so i will remove and clean or replace easy fix

2 - I seem to have poor power at top end I cannot seem to reach and hold 100km/hr on the flat even worse with headwind and hills 4th gear 80km/hr mostly especially towing my CT if I change to 5th just drop back in speed to 79km/hr and i change back down. the engine is a 300tdi with 370000km on clock does not use much oil(mainly loss due to leaky oil lines and maybe intake manifold gasket) and does not blow much smoke if any and I run 255/85/16.I have tried playing with fuel pump to no noticeable increase in power or smoke but EGT's increased to 560c on hills in 4th

3 - cracked coolant bottle(easy fix)

4 - THE BIGGIE I blew the diff (or something in it) whilst out at ningaloo station in soft sand drive shaft spins but just grinds. I removed drive shaft and my md axles and drove home a nervous 1000km in front wheel drive with diff lock engaged(yes towing camper trailer) so i guess i just want to know the best setup thinking detroit locker and what ever else i find once removed from car and open up

other than that a great trip and the first in the 130 with camper trailer (would just love to sit on 100km or 110 with ease . used about 14-16L/100km worst was definitely coming home in front wheel drive(not great but happy with consumption given I came out of a D2 4.6)

Jock The Rock
13th September 2012, 08:42 PM
If cleaning the solenoid doesn't fix the issue it may be a fault with your fuel pump. I've seen it several times before (on machinery) where internal leakage will allow the engine to run on. The lack of power could be caused by the same problem

Best of luck with it all

uninformed
13th September 2012, 08:52 PM
the gurus will follow....

did you notice a spike in temp? you say crack in expansion bottle, how much loss? Im thinking maybe head gasket..... do you have the OEM LR temp gauge?

Personally, I would go a ARB locker if any. (Ashcroft dont do a Sals at this Stage...DAVE are you reading this :))

Fully strip the axle down and check if fragments have made there way into the ends...check both axles and each ends for spline damage...at this stage it wont hurt to install new seals and obviously check bearings. Run your bearings in oil rather than grease if they arent already...

dont stress, more knowledgeable help will be along soon

clintox
13th September 2012, 09:04 PM
Uninformed I did not notice any spike in temp I have a madman fitted with coolant temp and low coolant alarm. It seems to be leaking from just above the weld join through middle of tank once gests below crack line I haven't noticed and other loss of fluid. I assumed it was caused due to heavy corragations but could a head gasket cause this crack with pressure.

I bought car at auction so am unsure of cars past history

bronzie66610
13th September 2012, 09:05 PM
I am reading this. Have a good P38 to put in this weekend,

uninformed
13th September 2012, 09:08 PM
if it is the black plastic type expansion bottle, these are known to fail/crack/split...you can replace with a LR item same, but white/opaque..

clintox
13th September 2012, 09:10 PM
Yep it's the black one

DeanoH
14th September 2012, 09:44 AM
I fixed my expansion tank seam leak by digging a 100mm long 'trench' along the leaking seam to a depth of about 5mm using a medium size soldering iron. I then used black cable tie off cuts (same sort of plastic) as 'filler rod' to fill the 'trench'. I then folded the sides of the trench over using the soldering iron and flattened the plastic out. Next I tightened a long stainless steel cable tie around the centre of the tank to stop the tank flexing. Hasn't leaked since. :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/1027.jpg

Don't know how long it will last for, but a good 'bush fix'. :)


Deano :)

wally
14th September 2012, 10:21 AM
A good bush fix, but a new one doesn't cost much and will give you much more peace of mind.

djam1
14th September 2012, 10:53 AM
Any chance you could post up pictures of the broken Salisbury.
Never seen one that's all?
Did it have oil?

rick130
14th September 2012, 11:49 AM
Any chance you could post up pictures of the broken Salisbury.
Never seen one that's all?
Did it have oil?

Ditto.

Heard of broken axles and broken housing/tubes, but not a broken CWP or sun gears.

djam1
14th September 2012, 12:03 PM
Another thing to consider is if you drove 1000ks home driving on the front diff only is the crown wheel bolts on the front diff.
Its not unknown after these scenarios that the bolts loosen causing issues.

Judo
14th September 2012, 12:15 PM
I thought that:

Power to solenoid = engine on
No power to solenoid = engine off

If that's the case it seems unlikely cleaning it will help as if it was a connection issue then the engine would stop...????

clintox
14th September 2012, 12:46 PM
yes has oil, when I pull diff ill take some picks and find out exactly whats gone wrong, the 130 has done near on 400000 clicks of which I know 6500km of so I would be happy to get another 400000 out of a new diff.
the axle ends looked fine at the time I'm still packing away our gear and cleaning campertrailer and car so give me till the weekend for pics

clintox
15th September 2012, 03:31 PM
well it appears I may have been a little hasty in saying my salisbury had died on inspection of removing the cover I found that it looked in pretty good condition(no worn patch on ring gear or any metal fragments in housing) and spun quite freely (with driveshaft removed and no axles) so I thought I would take another look at axles and drive flanges to find this. Once I noticed this I twigged that when I removed this axle I remember thinking thats odd I had to belt the flange off with the hammer instead of just normally pulling off by hand( I guess in the heat of the moment and my kids climbing over me to get moving it just didn't register.

rick130
15th September 2012, 03:53 PM
All too common with greased hub bearings.

Get a new drive flange, pull the stub axle, remove the axle oil seal, fit an RTC3511 hub seal, lots of diff oil over the bearings and put it all back together, and you can overfill the diff a bit too.

That won't happen again ;)

clintox
15th September 2012, 04:00 PM
guess I'm up for a new set of maxi drive axles and flanges as the passenger side looks worn as well.

now to next issues lack of power in top end and oil cooler hoses.
and here is a shot of the rig (ella) as promised

clintox
15th September 2012, 04:02 PM
rick i did have oil fed bearings although when i changed the bearings for the first time when i got vehicle i had noticed what looked to be a mixture of grease and oil on old bearings

slug_burner
15th September 2012, 04:13 PM
make sure the transfer case is not a disco case as the gearing will be too tall for the 300 tdi 130. I 'd ensure that the fuel supply side of things is ok before going further on the hunt for low power.

rick130
15th September 2012, 04:25 PM
rick i did have oil fed bearings although when i changed the bearings for the first time when i got vehicle i had noticed what looked to be a mixture of grease and oil on old bearings

Unusual then.

The oil coming through from the diff prevents the fretting (usually)

rick130
15th September 2012, 05:02 PM
Re get up and go, I'd start with the fuel supply side first, separator, lift pump, main filter etc. then check the pump timing.

djam1
15th September 2012, 05:56 PM
Don't forget to check the front diff crown wheel bolts at that mileage it would need adjustment anyway.

justinc
15th September 2012, 06:26 PM
injector pump can fail to shut off if there is swarf under the plunger for the shut off solenoid. when removing the solenoid to check it, remove the plunger and very carefully look for metallic particles in the fuel well where the plunger seat is. this is the first sign of the hardfacing coming off the cam ring in the pump. won't be long before a rebuild is req.

jc

uninformed
15th September 2012, 06:46 PM
Unusual then.

The oil coming through from the diff prevents the fretting (usually)

lots of varibales...what oil is used in the diff, how often oil is changed...is diff or any part leaking? have the bearings been checked and adjusted regulary?

the list goes on..

clintox
15th September 2012, 08:07 PM
The diff side of things I use all penrite oils but I must stress I have only done 6500km in this vehicle and history of the other 380000km is unknown. I have Replace all wheel bearings, lift pump, brake vacuum pump, all filters, all oils, adjusted tappets, and timing belt. Will attack shutoff solenoid tomorrow

clintox
15th September 2012, 08:11 PM
And installed a madman gauge, and new radiator along with a new head lining, traxide headlight upgrade and traxide dual battery kit. I'm looking to making this vehicle a reliable touring rig with spending money wisely when needed