TD5 - torque converter to flex plate bolts

[twr7cx]

How/where/what are these? I'm busy removing the torque converter (or trying to) and am currently stumped on these. I have the starter motor out, and it seems there is the fly wheel (ring gear) there, but I can find the bolts that go into the torque converter (I can only feel with my figures can't get my head into any position to see).

I removed the round plate at the bottom of the bellhousing and it looks as though the torque converter is further back. How does this work? Does it go fly wheel (ring gear) to flex plate to torque converter or?

I have been looking through Rave and it seems fairly useless:


14. Remove and discard 3 bolts securing torque
converter to drive plate.

Not really much of an explanation.

[twr7cx]

Ok, seems that there are holes in the fly wheel and a 13mm socket (or maybe 1/2") goes through these holes (with an extension on).

EDIT: they are 1/2" not 13mm for anyones future reference.

[Barefoot Dave]

That's the way mate.
Easiest if you have a mate turn the engine from the front as you go.
Have fun!
Cheers, Dave.

[twr7cx]

Easiest if you have a mate turn the engine from the front as you go.

I used a flat head screw driver on the ring gear to turn the engine while I was by myself under there.
Where do you turn the motor from the front? It so cramped around the crank shaft pulley that I couldn't see how I'd get a spanner on it without moving various hoses and that first.

[Blknight.aus]

what it doesnt mention...

before trying to seperate the gearbox from the engine....

Pry the TC back towards the auto to disengage it from the flex plate and centering spigot.

Id guess that the #1 cause of seal damage of the pump when removing the auto for replacement of the TC, flex plate or rear main is the TC hanging up on the flex plate and being pulled forwards off the box then allowed to hang.

After you pull the first bolt out stop.

now take it and go make up a guide dowel and drill a 2mm hole in the end of the dowel that will poke forwards. Grab some 2.1mm or 2.2mm whipper snipper cord (12 inches is usually ample)

When you go to put the auto back in thread the guide dowl into the bottom TC thread hole and poke the cord into the hole in the dowl.

As you close up the gap from the Auto to the engine poke the cord through the hole in the flex plate and then out the hole in the engine adaptor. Once all the bell housing bolts are up and the mounts are in place remove the cord remove the stud and do up the first TC/flex plate bolt.

[Pierre]

The Warriors have taught you well, Sir David.

Pete

[haydent]

I used a flat head screw driver on the ring gear to turn the engine while I was by myself under there.
Where do you turn the motor from the front? It so cramped around the crank shaft pulley that I couldn't see how I'd get a spanner on it without moving various hoses and that first.

This was a great tip and worked fine, the only other way would be from above the crank pulley with wrench, but never tried. The screw driver was so easy.

[haydent]

"and discard 3 bolts securing torque"

im guessing you use new ones, its quite surprising that its just those 3 little one transferring all the power through whhe nyou compare it to the 8 bigger looking bolts that hold the flex plate to the crank...