TD5 Automatic Transmission - removing electrical connections and top oil line

[twr7cx]

Since I have a strong record of breaking the clips on electrical connection plugs, I thought I'd ask before attempting.
On the top of the automatic transmission are some black round electrical connection plugs, they're up high and I can't see a clip or straight forward way of disconnecting them - whats the secret please?

And the top oil cooler line fitting, what's the best way to attack that? The bottom one was easy with a 19mm crowfoot on the end of a 3/4" 6" extension and ratchet.

[Jason789]

Hello twr7cx,

Slide a small electrical terminal screwdriver between the metal bracket and the plastic clip. This disengages the little tab that is holding the terminal to the bracket.( so while you have the screwdriver in behind the tab, jiggle it a bit and then wiggle the the plastic terminal).
I hope that makes some sort of sense :unsure:

I had my transmission out last week, that's what worked for me.

Cheers,

Jason

PS. Use an open ender for the line on the side of the transmission(and the bottom line also for that matter). Do get new O rings when you put them back

[twr7cx]

Between the passenger side chasis rail and the automatic transmission:


Inhibitor switch connection looks like it first needs to be disconnect from it's mount tab and then the disconnected:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/837.jpg


How is this black cylinder electrical connection disconnected? Looks as though it be be unscrewed?
Note the two black flat terminal connections floating loose (one has a black wire with green stripe), they were not connected to anything, is that an issue? Should they have been?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/838.jpg



Transfer box from the front:

How do these get removed?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/839.jpg



Can I place a jack under the transmission, remove the two rear mounts and lower it down a bit to increase working area or would this overstress the front engine mounts?



EDIT: inhibitor switch and transmission fluid cooler lines are disconnected. Just the black cylinder connection on the automatic transmission and the transfer box connections holding me up now. And the top drivers side bellhousing bolt.

[OffTrack]

Have a look at the Auto Transmission TB attached to this post:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/152939-removing-transmission-need-help.html#post1704941

It is a revised version of the auto removal procedure in RAVE. It should answer every question you've asked in this thread so far ;)

For example:


32. Rotate the locking ring anti-clockwise and disconnect the transmission connector.

40. Raise the transmission and remove the two transmission mounting bracket assemblies.
41. Lower the transmission sufficiently to access the top of the transmission.

42. To prevent damage to components, cushion the jack pad with a block of wood or hard rubber.
Position a second support jack under the engine using a block between the engine sump and jack to prevent damage to the sump.

cheers
Paul

[twr7cx]

Is there anywhere to get ALL the TB's since Rave was released?

[twr7cx]

Cheers for the TB, but it is still quiet vague.

I'm still have difficulty with the black cylinder electrical connection. I can get my hand on it, but it doesn't turn either way. The TB says anti-clockwise, which is stupid, as that is a subjective term, anti-clockwise when facing which way? Also, if you look at the picture I put up earlier, there are two parts that are knurled, I assume its the part closes to the transmission that I turn, but not really sure, could have to turn both to unscrew them from each other?


It's frustrating having just these few connections holding me up from dropping the box. Out of daylight now anyways though. I'm pretty confident that there is enough slack in the cables to lower the back of the box down a bit (hopefully the engine mounts will survive) and this hopefully will allow me to actually see what I'm disconnecting and get to it.

[justinc]

Hi scott,

That large cylindrical wiring harness plug; rotates as if you are undoing it IE Anticlockwise when viewed from behind looking forward. It only rotates about 90 degrees and pulls out IIRC. You have to rotate the collar that is right in close to the casing, not the outer one.

I have a sump pan corner clamp here for you, too.

JC

[OffTrack]

Is there anywhere to get ALL the TB's since Rave was released?

Yes. You can purchase a 24 hour subscription to D2 TB section on Topix and download them, which is how I got the ones I have.

http://topix.landrover.jlrext.com

[twr7cx]

All disconnected now. Probably the most frustrating and time consuming part of this job! Definitely the best way is to lower it down a bit, might not be nice for the front engine mounts though...

[jan v b]

My gearbox is giving fault codes like, speed sensor on gearbox (intermittent), gearbox temp sensor (intermittent, and a couple of other gearbox related codes. Do anyone know were the gearbox wiring plugs to the main harness or maybe other plugs were I might find bad contact on plugs?

[twr7cx]

My gearbox is giving fault codes like, speed sensor on gearbox (intermittent), gearbox temp sensor (intermittent, and a couple of other gearbox related codes. Do anyone know were the gearbox wiring plugs to the main harness or maybe other plugs were I might find bad contact on plugs?

If you grab the Rave manual it has the full wiring diagram with connector identification numbers. The connector library will assist you in finding their locations in and around the vehicle.