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View Full Version : How Do I Disconnect the Reversing Alarm?



Peter041
23rd September 2012, 06:36 PM
Any members know where I can easily get at the power supply to the reversing alarm in my 2010 D4 3.0? I know its somewhere in behind the rear left interior plastic panels, but I cannot see how to get to it. The plan is to put a switch into it so I can turn it off when reversing with a trailer connected.

101RRS
23rd September 2012, 07:00 PM
With a trailer connected the alarm should be automatically be disabled.

It would seem you have a problem - have you genuine landrover wiring or a bodgy job?

Leds on the trailer - is the trailer symbol lighting up when you have your indicators on?

Garry

Graeme
23rd September 2012, 07:21 PM
I'd like to disable then enable the rear sensors after a trailer is detached to get the sensors working again without having to stop and restart the engine. Actually I'd like smarter software but can't do anything about that. I suspect the wiring is fitted for the dash disable/enable switch that's installed when front sensors are fitted. The harness for the front sensors are all in a connector on their own, as are the rears, with other wires that also run from the front in a 3rd connector. One day I'll get to look for the switch connector behind where the switch would be fitted.

Drafrete
23rd September 2012, 07:58 PM
In the HSE there is a parking sensor switch, which enables you to turn off the front and rear sensors after they have been automatically started. So I don't know whether you have tried this after the sensors are started.

It is possible to turn the sensors off and leave the camera on.

I have done this when reversing to connect a caravan, which is before the wiring loom is connected so the auto disengage does not work.

Peter041
12th October 2012, 08:17 PM
I guess you could say its a bodgy job. The 7 pin plug now accomodates a live wire to power the electric brakes on my trailer, and the wiring from my brake controller.

I'm really not sure why it wont sense the trailer is attached, but I have the blue (electric brake) wire and black (reversing) I have disconnected to allow for the extra other wires.

Does anyone know what signal/circuit/resistance needs to be sensed to actually tell the D4 that the trailer is attached?

rufusking
13th October 2012, 05:48 AM
Check Garrycol's questions. The trailer is "sensed" via a low voltage signal sent down the indicator circuits. Is your trailer wiring part of the original LR trailer loom or have you piggy backed off the vehicle rear lights? Does the trailer have LED lights?

Graeme
13th October 2012, 01:21 PM
...One day I'll get to look for the switch connector behind where the switch would be fitted.
Today whilst the D4's centre console was apart I had a look. There is only 1 connector on the console and its fully populated, so worked my way to being able to pop the top off the blank where the switch goes. The switch is intact. The blank is a proper switch button but with 4 or 5 legs (now removed) to stop it from moving when pushed. My reversing sensors are not currently attached (no plastic bumper skin) so cannot test to see if the disable switch works or not but will post results when the bumper is again fitted. It could be that the switch is ignored if front sensors are not fitted.

rufusking
13th October 2012, 01:43 PM
Graeme, have you stumbled across something here? Does LR just mechanically lock out switches (presumably without the graphics on the surface) instead of fitting blanking plates? Time to start poking around.

Graeme
13th October 2012, 04:30 PM
Yes, its just a simple mechanical lockout. However I don't know if the real D4 switch button has a LED to indicate the sensors are disabled because the D3 has a LED in the switch, although that wouldn't bother me as I only want to turn them off then straight back on. I didn't think to look for a 2-pin connector but I had quite a look comparing with what the stability control disable switch had beneath its button, mostly being the visible pcb that had nothing directly to do with the switches themselves. The switches are operated by a single prong near the top centre of the button, with 2 rubber tubes providing the return spring function.

Faultmate doesn't provide any test functions for the parking distance ecu so I couldn't detect if the ecu recognised the switch.

Peter041
13th October 2012, 06:30 PM
Check Garrycol's questions. The trailer is "sensed" via a low voltage signal sent down the indicator circuits. Is your trailer wiring part of the original LR trailer loom or have you piggy backed off the vehicle rear lights? Does the trailer have LED lights?

No the wiring is the original trailer loom ... interesting that you say the indicators are the circuit they sense on. These are as per normal, yellow/green for left & right so there is nothing unusual here.

Re LED's ... Yes I do have LED's but I have also tried plugging in a trailer with normal globes, the vehicle still does not sense it is there.

Confusing & annoying!

sniegy
14th October 2012, 04:31 PM
First off,

Does the trailer icon flash (separate from your indicator arrow) with the LED trailer attached?
Does it flash with an incandescent trailer attached?
Does the RPDC turn off with an incandescent trailer?

If you answer no to the above then the tow bar wiring may of not been turned on.
Will need to get a dealer/someone with fault mate to turn them on properly.
You will also need an LED adaptor module from linear electronics to mimic the extra load if you use an LED trailer.
See here..
http://www.linearelectronicdesign.com/

Cheers

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

Peter041
16th October 2012, 07:04 PM
sniegy thanks for the advice ...


First off,

Does the trailer icon flash (separate from your indicator arrow) with the LED trailer attached? NO
Does it flash with an incandescent trailer attached? NO
Does the RPDC turn off with an incandescent trailer? NO

If you answer no to the above then the tow bar wiring may of not been turned on. Sounds like it ...
Will need to get a dealer/someone with fault mate to turn them on properly.
You will also need an LED adaptor module from linear electronics to mimic the extra load if you use an LED trailer.The lights all function OK on the trailer, does that mean the resistance will still be needed??
See here..
Linear Electronic Design | Home (http://www.linearelectronicdesign.com/)

Cheers Thanks for your reply, much appreciated ...

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner