Ignition barrel rebuild - new wafers

[catch-22]

I have to get this done and would prefer someone come out to do it.

Any recommendations on who to use? I'm on the North Shore in Sydney.

I've called a few and they don't seem to know about the specific issue with the D2s.

Cheers

[Pedro_The_Swift]

If you supply the new wafers surely any locksmith could do it??

[alpick]

Bensons Locksmith in alexandria are specialist for Landrover issues.

They sent their mobile expert to get me going when my barrel failed completely when away from home. Wasn't cheap but was completely sorted roadside.

highly recommend them .

[dswatts]

Had mine lock up completely yesterday. Had to remove the barrel and wafers. Cleaned it all out, had to leave half of the wafers out on reassembly. Wafers had a little wear, but the barrel had grooves worn into causing the wafers to jamb.
Not a hard job to do your self. An hour and a half all up going easy.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

now that would have made a great tutorial:ohyes:

[northiam]

Mine wouldnt turn the key yesterday also , managed to free with spraying contact cleaner in the lock. Found this:
ignition lock fix - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum (http://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/ignition-lock-fix-35422/)

[Rick Fischer]

Been there done all that. Final solution was to remove all the wafers and the steering lock. Note that if the key can come out from Acc or Run, the lock must be removed!

Security is still fine because the engine is electronically locked and won't start unless it gets the proper signal from the correct key.

[alpick]

Search
Replace your d2 barrel with a d1 barrel. Much cheaper.

[catch-22]

what part do you replace - just the barrel itself I'd imagine?

The D2 has the electric security device that ties in with the key....I'll read more by searching :-)

[alpick]

You buy the whole D1 barell assembly, have it keyed to your keys and replace your faulty barrel and wiring..

There is a tutorial on here somewhere on replacing the barrel assembly.

Don't buy a pattern part as I did, (Brit part cheapy) they are slightly off proper tolerance and I had to get mine modified for the keys to operate smoothly. Worked great with the keys it came with but not so good with original keys. Would have been cheaper to buy an OEM/LR part that didnt require mods

Way cheaper than a new d2 barrel and fits exactly. Go figure.

[alpick]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/136200-discovery-_2-ignition-replacement.html

found it

[northiam]

Can anyone help with what size bolts thread etc to replace the shear bolts after removing them Thanks

[tailslide]

My D2 is having a night out tonight, all by its self.:mad::mad::mad:

Tried WD40, then off with the covers and a few taps to the barrel but no joy. I was stumped by the shear bolts... Thankfully I've found this thread.:D:D:D

Will tackle this tomorrow after catching the train to work and back.:mad::mad::mad:

Cheers
Ron

[Ollie]

I searched and found a tutorial when I replaced my steering lock for a D1 unit.
The key would go in but not turn. As an emergency measure I removed the bolts & lock pushed the steering lock plunger in & put a Tie Wrap round to stop it engaging. Put the lock back in place with standard SHCS bolts M8 x 12 ? Removed the electrical switch, two screws.
So putting the key in place registered on the electronic reader then I turned the, loose switch,to start with a stubbie screw driver.
After changing the complete switch for new, via a locksmith to match the old key I found that it still was not perfect. Last weekend I stripped the lock and as per tutorial ground off any minor protrusions . Still not good, I increased the angle on the point of the keys, I then reduced the key thickness from 2.6mm to 2.1mm this solved the problem. I could not find the spring for the steel ball I was about to use the one from the original lock but this seemed to create more issues so I left it out. So all the wafers in cleaned & lubed with Vaseline. No steel ball, thinner key, solved the problem it works wonderfully.

[tdi130dualcab]

Had the barrel done one ours a year or 2 ago.

Took the barrel out ourselves (only took about half an hour)

Had a locksmith repair it (Ruswins in townsville) cost $75, dropped off in morning and picked it up by lunch.

Refitted it that afternoon (about half an hour)

Any proper locksmith should be able to repair it at a reasonable cost if you want to remove and refit yourself.

[twr7cx]

I found that when mine seized hitting knocking the key with a hammer twice made it work again long enough for me to drive the vehicle home. I also put some graphite powder on the key first.

Like others I replaced with a D1 ignition barrel, that's what the local Land Rover parts supplier recommended and sold me.

[tailslide]

Armed with the right tools, cold chisel and hammer, the lock assembly was off in a few minutes. Key in coil, and 1/4" flat blade screw driver in switch assembly and I was heading the D2 back home.:)

On closer inspection back home it looks like the previous owner had already been there... The retaining pin had been out before and sever wafers were missing. In my case one of the internal springs had moved and a single wafer was sticking out. All fixed now and reinstalled.:D For those that are interested the thread is an M8 x 1.25.

Cheers
Ron

[northiam]

My lock finally completely jammed up even though I was applying graphite every few weeks. After 1/2 hour of wife and kids screaming I managed to wriggle the key to start and get home.

Picked up new Lucas branded D1 ignition lock for $125, had new lock reset for existing keys $45.
Thanks the bolts are M8. I just unscrewed the shear head bolts with a centre punch easy. Used new shear bolts but did not tighten them enough to break/shear off
All sorted thanks to this awesome forum :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/1251.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/1252.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/1253.jpg

[Willis]

I got some valuable advice from others on this forum, then sent my spare key down to British4wd in Tassie and the bloke there (Allan?) supplied a new D1 barrell, arranged to have it rekeyed to my spare and sent the lot back.

Followed the tutorial to remove the old barrell and replace - I think it was on this site - but can search for it if necessary.

It was an easy install - I used some good multigrips to undo the shear bolts, and when putting the new barrel on just used regular nuts, spring washers and locktight. To steal the car you have to get past the immobilizer first....

The D1 barrell is a little tighter on the key than the original but i can live with it. I think it cost about $250 all up with barrel, rekey and freight.

Best

Willis

[NWTASD2]

Alan is Awesome...

A Genuine Gentle Man.......

I had this issue today and before I could read this forum got the RACT to have look. The technician accidentally got the key to turn after we removed dash and column covers etc.

Got home Ok.............And have left key in ignition (parked in backyard).

The option I will choose is to take it (barrel) to local locksmith on Tuesday and get him to remove wafers.

Several other members have had positive results with this method.

I will replce shear bolts with normal bolts and keep a s stubby screwdriver and zip tie in case of future emergency.