Llams Vs Rods Vs Nothing

[LR D4]

I trying to work out if Llams or Rods are worth it, as I'm starting to hear stories of them throwing fault codes and confusing the computer system.

Has anyone had Llams or rods throw faults??

Is there any pro's and con's of each type ??

[101RRS]

Where have you heard this? I have had LLAMs fitted and follow its use on here and have not heard of any issues (there were some issues related to assembly that are now fixed) - nor have I had any issues. If there was one anyway, i would simply disconnect it (about 5mins work max) and drive on this the suspension system as standard.

I don't think you will have any issues (and if you do LLAMs and rods can be disabled)

Rods - relatively cheap but lack a little flexibility

LLAMS - certainly not the cheapest but with the height limitations of the car you can do what you want from the drivers seat and on the move.

No Rods or LLAMS - when offroad at offroad height - excessive compressor use as you go up and down and possible damage to the car if it has dropped and you have not noticed - like ripping off rear bumpers on creek crossings on Fraser when your height has been dropped and you have missed it.

My preference id LLAMs but if you like them go the Rods - but you will limit your vehicles capability when offroad if you do nothing.

Garry

[LR D4]

Where have you heard this? I have had LLAMs fitted and follow its use on here and have not heard of any issues (there were some issues related to assembly that are now fixed) - nor have I had any issues. If there was one anyway, i would simply disconnect it (about 5mins work max) and drive on this the suspension system as standard.

I don't think you will have any issues (and if you do LLAMs and rods can be disabled)

Rods - relatively cheap but lack a little flexibility

LLAMS - certainly not the cheapest but with the height limitations of the car you can do what you want from the drivers seat and on the move.

No Rods or LLAMS - when offroad at offroad height - excessive compressor use as you go up and down and possible damage to the car if it has dropped and you have not noticed - like ripping off rear bumpers on creek crossings on Fraser when your height has been dropped and you have missed it.

My preference id LLAMs but if you like them go the Rods - but you will limit your vehicles capability when offroad.

GarryThanks Garry, that's why I asked on here to get the correct info, I had a hunch I was getting fed BS by a third party, I will give the Llams a go !!

[RichardK]

X2 for me

[wombathole]

Can you use faultmate as a way to increase the standard height?

[CaverD3]

Yes.

[wombathole]

Yes.

Thx CaverD3.

Interesting concept to consider.

Basics diags device plus LLAMs for suspension control. Equals how much? About $1500?


Or faultmate mvs2. About $1500? Which does diags, ability to set vehicle in "tight tolerance" mode, plus ride height control, plus what else?

Which is better?

[Graeme]

The suspension ecu allows the ride height to be adjusted by a maximum of 25 mm using appropriate diagnostic tools.

[CaverD3]

Faultmate, Autologic or IDD tools. :BigThumb:

Llams is easiest then IDD displayed on info screen. Then others.

[gghaggis]

It is possible to get a "sensor out of range" error when using either LLAMS or the rods and in situations where a wheel is left hanging in the air. It's not a serious condition and a quick restart will clear it. It certainly doesn't detract from the advantage that either system provides to the user.

Cheers,

Gordon

[Graeme]

Llams's fade-out option should prevent most sensor out of range faults but the trade-off is possible less height during extreme articulation. The option is worth trying if getting repeated out of range faults. Keeping the suspension moving is usually all that's required to keep the average sensor value (height) within range, presumably with shortened rods too for the same reason.

[adzee]

Any issues with llams for me were sorted as mentioned above. Never once did I grind to a halt, or be stuck with no suspension. It is the best investment you can make IMHO as grounding regularly will destroy the underside of your rig.

[~Rich~]

Again as said before LLAMS had some minor loom issues but these have been addressed by Graeme a long while ago now.

LLAMS is pretty well bullet proof and has saved me a couple of times where I would of been stuck with no help at hand. The additional height was the saving factor.

The flexibility of the system is fantastic where on my recent Simpson trip I used every setting: -20mm on the way up on the open roads, +30mm I used probably the most off road as well as the off road setting. +50mm was used on some faster dirt sections with the car set at standard height as if you use off road the moment you get over 40kph you get the bong and when you hit 50kph the car drops to standard height.

LLAMS every time for me.

[gghaggis]

By comparison, the rods are pretty simple (and cost-effective). Flick them over, run at on-road height all day (which is now the old off-road height). Raise the car to off-road (now old off-road + 45mm) ONLY when needed.

Keep in mind that your car's wheel articulation is optimised for the original off-road height, as is the air system in general (compressor wear, tank reservoir etc). Using other heights off-road is not optimal, hence why you should only use when needed.

Cheers,

Gordon

[LR D4]

Which of the two are easier to hide from Land Rover ?