1956 Series 1 with PTO welder (home made)

[gromit]

Following on from the interest shown in another thread I thought I'd post a few pictures of my Series 1 that's fitted with a home made PTO welder.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/07/106.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WsyNRt)DSCF4232 (https://flic.kr/p/WsyNRt) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I purchased the Series 1 just prior to the 60th celebrations at Cooma and with my father-in-law as co-driver managed to get it there and back under it's own steam.

Camping on the airfield at Cooma

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/89.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WE4PMo)DSCF3642 (https://flic.kr/p/WE4PMo) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The original owner carried out many modifications to the vehicle during it's life. Early on it was used for recovering vehicles and carrying out site welding jobs, when he retired it was used for fishing trips to the Bemm River and was fitted out with a bed and storage system. It was also regularly on the Frankston boat ramp.
I've met the original owners grandson but unfortunately the family have no pictures of it during their ownership.

There are many modifications that have been carried out over the years, some modifications have been modified again as the usage changed.

A few of the main ones are :-
Home made canvas covered plywood hardtop.
Home made PTO welder.
Storage system.
Bed that stretches from the bulkead to the rear door.
Coil over addition to the leafsprings.
Flywire screens for the front windows (so you can leave them open when you're sleeping in the vehicle).
Extra gearlever
Holden carby.
Roofrack to carry a tinny, outboard and fuel tanks.
Wiper mechanism from a period British car.
Auxilliary fuel tank.
Home made door locks.

Aircraft generator (we think) & forge blower running off PTO.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/90.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WvVWit)DSCF5831 (https://flic.kr/p/WvVWit) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Electrical choke on chassis rail.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/91.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WDZBjq)DSCF1635 (https://flic.kr/p/WDZBjq) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Spot the extra gearlever.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/92.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WsAw6N)extra gearlever (https://flic.kr/p/WsAw6N) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The welder hasn't been fired up by myself yet. The previous owner used it to repair fences around his property but the governor was leaking then I found the pulley was cracked. The pulley has been replaced now, the leather seal replaced with a modern one and it now holds oil so I'll get round to trying it out sometime soon.
Currently the main fuel tank is out and I need to find time to repair it but I can still use it because of the auxilliary tank.

It's on full rego (much to my wife's disgust) and gets used occasionally.


I'll post a few more pictures when I get time.


Colin

[Landy Smurf]

looks very interesting :)

[Defender Mike]

Looks like a cabinheater on the floor pasenger side

[gromit]

Looks like a cabinheater on the floor pasenger side

Yes Mike, there is a heater. Not the usual Smiths type I haven't found a 'brand' on it but I haven't done much other that use it....

The home made hardtop has a double vent on top that can be raised from inside, both sides are flywired.
Window flywires are stored above the driver and above the passenger are the pieces of board needed to fill in where the passenger seats are (I'll post some more photo's to explain further). If you look in the photo below just above the instrument panel is a large voltmeter. I was told to get this up to about 60V-70V on the hand throttle and then the current from the welder can be adjusted by the control at the back of the car. There's a lovely pink light to illuminate the voltmeter at night.

There is a small overhead locker above passenger & driver.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/87.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WDZASo)Welder 5 (https://flic.kr/p/WDZASo) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The louvres on the side of the hardtop were for a stove & gas fridge which were removed before I got the vehicle.
I love the little access door with a small window for lighting the fridge and checking the pilot is still alight.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/09/88.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vu6kht)DSCF2526 (https://flic.kr/p/Vu6kht) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

More to follow.



Colin

[ellard]

Hi there Colin

This is a nice little unique truck - thanks for the pictures.

All the best

Wayne

[Defender Mike]

I wonder if the previous owner was a sheet metal worker or airframe fitter lots of nice elittle touches.

[juddy]

Excellent pictures thank you...

[JDNSW]

You don't mention the unique mirror mount - hopefully in the "more to follow". John

[gromit]

You don't mention the unique mirror mount - hopefully in the "more to follow". John

You've got a good memory John, I'll have to cover that later on....

I've already mentioned that the vehicle seemed to have different uses throughout it's life with the first owner. On the side where the louvres are you can see where there was a window in the past. The roof is canvas covered plywood but I did discover some fibreglass repairs when I was fixing the rot in the timbers when I first got it.

Being a shorty it's a problem to get a bed inside but the original owner came up with a solution.

There is a bench seat down the side but the top is two sheets of plywood. Clipped to the body above the bench seat are some long brackets.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1744.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W8iqa5)DSCF2537 (https://flic.kr/p/W8iqa5) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Take the top bracket and attach to the bulkhead behind the seats, open up the top of the bench seat (the two halves are held together with a piano hinge) and you have a short bed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1745.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vu6eZe)DSCF2538 (https://flic.kr/p/Vu6eZe) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Now fold down the passenger seats, take the other two brackets and fit them between the bulkhead behind the driver and the 'dashboard'. Take the plywood panels down from above the passenger and complete the bed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1746.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VrnJEs)DSCF2539 (https://flic.kr/p/VrnJEs) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Some of these pictures date back to when I first purchased the Series I, I'll have to take some more to cover a lot of the other 'extras' fitted (including the door mirror).
Some parts were missing like the poles for the rear awning, some clamps on the roofrack etc. Also it would have been nice to have the gas fridge, stove, tinny, outboard motor etc.



Colin

[chazza]

What an interesting post! :D

What an interesting car!

It is always fascinating for me to see how others have adapted their Rovers to suit their needs and to see what they were used for so long ago.

What are your plans for it Colin?

Cheers Charlie

[gromit]

What an interesting post! :D

What an interesting car!

It is always fascinating for me to see how others have adapted their Rovers to suit their needs and to see what they were used for so long ago.

What are your plans for it Colin?

Cheers Charlie

Charlie,

I plan to use it as often as I can during the dryer months and keep it pretty much as it is.
Someone at Cooma summed it up (sorry can't remember who) "it's a unique piece of Australiana, I hope you're not going to restore it....."

I might paint the inside of the hardtop because the paint is in poor condition, I have a carby to overhaul and fit but it runs OK with the Holden carby (doesn't like it offroad though), the main tank is out to be lined but I haven't got round to doing it yet.
There are a lot of small things to fix like the heater tap on the block jammed open, two windows are cracked (original owner had fitted laminated glass throughout).

I must get round to putting it onto club rego to pacify the wife, my only concern is having to get another roadworthy.


Colin

[Landy Smurf]

that is a really clever and simple idea for a bed

[gromit]

Here is the bench seat in the back lifted up to show the storage of the welding leads. There is a neat home made latch that holds the seat in position.
The welding helmet came with the vehicle, possibly belonging to the original owner.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1715.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VyP1Fo)DSCF2548 (https://flic.kr/p/VyP1Fo) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


The storage system in the back is scruffy inside because it hasn't been painted but a neat setup.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1716.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WsATDN)DSCF2540 (https://flic.kr/p/WsATDN) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


There is a cupboard at the top, another at the bottom (the rear awning is kept in there). The middle cupboard has a neat trick, although it hinges from the bottom you open it part way then pull it towards you and lift the back and you have a table.
To the left would have been the fridge & stove (now removed).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1717.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vu6nmi)DSCF2541 (https://flic.kr/p/Vu6nmi) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Sitting at the table, if you open the top cupboard the door hinges down and there is a mirror on the inside. I guess you could sit at the table & shave.
It's reasonably well set up for 1 person to live out of.

I've now owned it for just over 4 years, the previous owner had it for approximately 12 years and he got it from a car dealer in Pakenham who was selling it on behalf of the first owner's grandson.


Colin

[slug_burner]

It is a beauty, pork pie tail light and all.

[JDNSW]

.... What an interesting car!
.... Cheers Charlie

One of the most interesting Landrovers I have ever seen! John

[123rover50]

One of the most interesting Landrovers I have ever seen! John

Likewise.

Keith

[gromit]

I'm still trying to work out what a lot of the brackets were for.

This is a view of the passenger side rear showing the welder control knob but I've no idea what the bracket across the badge is for. Maybe something sat on the handle on the rear crossmember and this swung up and hooked over the top to hold it in place. Seems a bit elaborate but at the moment I've no idea what it was used for.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1694.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WsAat5)Welder 4 (https://flic.kr/p/WsAat5) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


I found out what the semi-circular supports on the back of the hardtop are for (one is just below the rear worklight). The original owners grandson told me that they were for holding water containers when his grandad took the car down to the Bemm River camping.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1695.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WfEYtj)DSCF2529 (https://flic.kr/p/WfEYtj) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


At the top of the tray are brackets with cutouts where a shelf must have been inserted to support the water containers. There is a hole in the hardtop beside each of the supports where the water containers must have been strapped into place.

At the outer edges of the tray are guides for the awning poles. They must have latched into here and then they were lifted to tension the awning and a small latch at the top swings over to hold the pole in position (you can't see this in the photo). On the top edge of the hardtop you can see the aluminium track that the awning slots into and a tie down hook on the side of the hardtop.
I must buy some tent poles and try and sort out the awning one day. It seems that there are no poles to the ground just the pair that attach it to the back of the vehicle. I guess that means you could pull out a few pegs at the bottom and move to another fishing spot with the awning still attached ?

The step that swings down with the tailgate is a nice touch, makes it easy to get into the back as you get older.......



Colin

[chazza]

Thank you for that wonderful tour of your car Colin!

Next to the old boy's helmet is a set of swing-out hooks - any idea what they might have been for?

Cheers Charlie

[gromit]

Thank you for that wonderful tour of your car Colin!

Next to the old boy's helmet is a set of swing-out hooks - any idea what they might have been for?

Cheers Charlie


Charlie,

Like so many parts of this Land Rover I have to say..... I've no idea. It could have been from the days when it was a working vehicle or it could be to hang his shirts on when it was his fishing vehicle......

I'm trying to keep it much as it was when I got it. I overhauled the brakes, replaced the pipes, changed a few seals (for original leather ones) etc. details are here :-
Getting the Series 1 Ready for Cooma (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/46683-getting-series-1-ready-cooma.html)

I have added a rope to the front for the capstan winch. The winch works OK and came with a cut down starting handle, I've managed to hand start it (just to prove I could !). The rope came from a trash-and-treasure market and I taught myself how to splice it, a leather belt from a Op Shop ties the end in place (looks like it has always been there). Hiding under the rope is a front tow hitch.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1693.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Ve2JxV)DSCF5839 (https://flic.kr/p/Ve2JxV) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Colin

[numpty]

Thanks Colin. That's a bloody ripper.

Perry

[B.S.F.]

I remember admiring that S1 at the 60th in Cooma .It attracted quite a lot of interest, certainly made a pleasant change from the 'seen one seen 'em all ' restored ones. W.

[gromit]

I remember admiring that S1 at the 60th in Cooma .It attracted quite a lot of interest, certainly made a pleasant change from the 'seen one seen 'em all ' restored ones. W.

That's why I'm loath to change too much on the old girl.
I did paint parts of the chassis around items I overhauled like the brake master, spring mounts etc. The aim was to maybe re-paint the whole chassis at a later date.
It was interesting at Cooma finding out all the non original parts (there were lots of rivet counters there for some strange reason).

When I left Melbourne for Cooma the blokes in the office were having bets on how far I'd get before coming back on a tilt-tray. Made it there with one electrical gremlin, that reminds me I never did track it down, I just added an extra wire to the coil :)
Considering the only history of the engine was a head gasket change 16 years ago, a water pump about 8 years ago, I adjusted the tappets changed the oil and put an overhaul kit through the Holden carby and haven't done much since.

I'll try and take a few more photos at the weekend, especially the mirror on the drivers door.


Colin

[easo]

I wish I took more time to perv her over at Cooma now. I'll just have to wait until 2018.

Easo

[gromit]

I wish I took more time to perv her over at Cooma now. I'll just have to wait until 2018.

Easo

I'm not sure if my back could take another pounding, if she makes it to the 70th it will probably be on a trailer........


Colin

[chazza]

I have added a rope to the front for the capstan winch. [/IMG]

Colin

I think I am falling in love with Flu, even though she has a rather infectious name :cool:

At the risk of being an irritating know-it-all; don't keep the rope on the bumper when you go for a drive - even though it looks very sexy - because it will degrade rather quickly.

Synthetic and natural-fibre ropes don't like: sand and grit; UV light; chemicals of any sort; and damp, amongst a heap of other things. They do like to be stored in cool, dry, dark places, such as in a rope-bag under the bed in Flu's backside,

Cheers Chazza

[JDNSW]

I'm not sure if my back could take another pounding, if she makes it to the 70th it will probably be on a trailer........


Colin

Lubricate the springs and you will be OK. John

[gromit]

I think I am falling in love with Flu, even though she has a rather infectious name :cool:

At the risk of being an irritating know-it-all; don't keep the rope on the bumper when you go for a drive - even though it looks very sexy - because it will degrade rather quickly.

Synthetic and natural-fibre ropes don't like: sand and grit; UV light; chemicals of any sort; and damp, amongst a heap of other things. They do like to be stored in cool, dry, dark places, such as in a rope-bag under the bed in Flu's backside,

Cheers Chazza

Thanks Charlie,

It spends rather too much time stationary in dark shed for the rope to have problems, plus the winch is unlikely to be used in anger :)

I only have one Land Rover with a name so I was surprised when you called her Flu. As the rego doesn't stay with the vehicle in Australia and because it will end up on club plates I've never personally used 'Flu'.
I was trying to think of a clever name involving welding (Rod, Arc, Stick, Electrode, Flux....etc.) but nothing really appealed to me.
Maybe MAC for Manual Arc Welding......I'll have to think about it but any ideas welcome.

If there is a break in the weather at the weekend I'll take some more pictures, I took some of the unusual mirror on the drivers door but they didn't come out too well so I need to move her out of the shed.

Colin

[chazza]

What about "Flu" becoming a contraction of "Flux" :D

Bugger the plates not staying with the car - my daughter's car was "Arrow" (1ARO...) and mine is "Algy" (1ALG...) and my S3 is "Soggy" (6OG...). Mad I know, but it has become an obsessive compulsion for me with number plates,

Cheers Charlie

[easo]

Looks like a Kevin to me! ;)

Easo

[107gus]

I like the bed. Do you have any closer pictures of the front section and how it spans the seat area?

[gromit]

I like the bed. Do you have any closer pictures of the front section and how it spans the seat area?

I'll take some when I get a chance and post them. There are basically two poles with a bracket at one end to fit onto the 'dashboard' and at the other end a bracket to fit the bulkhead behind the seats. The plywood then sits on the two poles to complete the bed.


Colin

[gromit]

I've not tried out the three electrical plugs at the back. They are all different configurations so that you don't get things mixed up.
A trouble light came with the vehicle that fits one of the plugs so that's one accounted for, no ideas what the other two were used for.

There is a 6V dropper under the bonnet that was used to get 6V radios to work in a 12V car. I haven't traced the wiring but maybe one plug is 6V ?
There was also a surprise when I removed the instrument panel (apart from all the additional wiring) I'll post a picture of that another day.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1520.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WvXzDt)DSCF4237 (https://flic.kr/p/WvXzDt) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Colin

[gromit]

Decided at the weekend to get a move on with repairing the main fuel tank.
It's been out of the vehicle for some time, just waiting for the right moment to do the job.....

The size of the fuel filler means you can get your arm in to wire brush the inside, mind you there were a couple of moments when I thought I'd have to wander back to the house with my arm still inside the tank to find the vasoline. After a thorough degreasing I applied Ranex to 'convert' any rust that was left, again an arm in through the filler neck and a torch shining through the fuel sender hole to see where I was painting it.
Before applying a liner system I've started to strip the outside of the tank. To prevent damaging the solder on the joints and the tinned surface of the steel I used paint stripper rather than mechanical paint removal.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/1292.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VroK7Y)DSCN1598 (https://flic.kr/p/VroK7Y) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Colin

[easo]

I'd jam a multi meter into the sockets to see what their outputs are.

[gromit]

I had the Series I out to service it yesterday. Considering the petrol is stale it started & drove well although I must sort out the tickover.
Checked and topped up the gearbox, transfer box, swivel hubs and axles. Took it for a short drive and everything is fine (except for a few rattles from some of the parts stored in the back).

Managed to take some more photos of the front part of the bed arrangement.

Here are the poles that fit between the bulkhead behind the seats and the 'dashboard' (OK, the bulkhead/firewall).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/775.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vu7z8H)DSCN1622 (https://flic.kr/p/Vu7z8H) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

You then take the panels down from above the passenger seat and fit into place.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/776.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHAUZB)DSCN1624 (https://flic.kr/p/WHAUZB) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/777.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHASJe)DSCN1625 (https://flic.kr/p/WHASJe) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


I also took some pictures of the drivers door mirror. It's a bit unusual because it swings out to see past a wide load but the mirror stays in perfect alignment throughout it's travel.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/778.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vu7o7V)DSCN1626 (https://flic.kr/p/Vu7o7V) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/779.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHB2k2)DSCN1627 (https://flic.kr/p/WHB2k2) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Need to get on with lining the main tank so I can get it re-fitted for next weekend.



Colin

[gromit]

I've been trying to get the main tank repaired in time to go to the Series meeting this weekend. It runs OK on the auxilliary tank but having a deadline makes things happen...

I ended up getting some Redkote (I have a POR10 kit for another tank) and a few litres of Acetone. Read up all the 'how to' stuff and decided to get stuck into it.
Because Redkote can be removed using acetone I decided to insert the tank drain plug while distributing it round the inside then I could remove it to drain any excess and clean the threads up with acetone.
For the fuel sender & pickup connections I pushed some Blu-Tack into the holes to protect the threads (although I have a 2BA tap to clean the threads if needed) and covered the holes with masking tape.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/640.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WvXXuT)DSCN1671 (https://flic.kr/p/WvXXuT) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The Redkote, which had been mixed with acetone the night before, was tipped in the filler neck and this was taped up. Then the tank was tipped & turned to make sure the whole inside was coated.
The drain plug was removed and any excess caught as it drained.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/641.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WE27W9)DSCN1674 (https://flic.kr/p/WE27W9) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

There is a warning about leaving puddles of Redkote in the tank because it skins over then when fuel is pured in it can break the skin and you get strings of redkote in the fuel. I chased the remaining redkote around the inside of the tank to spread it out (by now the acetone was evaporating and the Redkote was thickening).
It then started to rain outside and with the change in humidity and the evaporation taking heat from the tank the outside ended up running with water. Luckily the inside was fully coated before this happened.

Here is a view inside the tank.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/642.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WsBCyA)DSCN1676 (https://flic.kr/p/WsBCyA) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The masking tape & Blu-Tack were removed and the tank left to dry.

I then etch primed the tank and tonight gave the bottom a coat of satin black, tomorrow night I'll paint the top and hopefully it's ready to go back in on Saturday.
Redkote $77 including delivery, 2 litres of acetone $18 plus paint.....it ends up about 1/5 the cost of a reproduction tank, but it's the original from 1956 !

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/643.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W8j8eQ)DSCN1678 (https://flic.kr/p/W8j8eQ) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


I have a gasket for the fuel sender and have to make one for the pickup pipe. I just need to decide what to do with the bolts that hold the tank in place. I might just neutralise the rust on them and re-use, I want them to fit in with the general patina of the vehicle.......



Colin

[Brad110]

Colin

Do you know if it can be used to line tanks used for potable water?

See you on Sun.

[gromit]

Colin

Do you know if it can be used to line tanks used for potable water?

See you on Sun.

Brad,

On the Damon Industries site (the makers of Redkote) they say specifically not to use it for potable water.

Hopefully the weather holds up for Sunday.


Colin

[gromit]

I managed to get the main tank back in on Saturday. Made the gasket for the fuel pickup and also decided to make one for the sender (despite buying one). I used the rubberised cork gasket material from Super Cheap.

Carefully re-installed using the original bolts but didn't connect it up to the fuel line, decided instead to let the RedKote cure a bit longer.

Took it for a drive to the Series Gathering at Beaconsfield Upper (using the auxilliary tank) and she performed well, I must fiddle with the Holden carby and try to get the tickover more consistent.

Next job is to fire the welder up in anger, the governor pulley was the holdup originally because it was cracked. A re-manufactured pulley has been installed so I don't really have an excuse now.....


Colin

[gromit]

Picture of the repaired tank in situ. The fuel line is blanked off because the facet pump has a problem with it's non-return valve, when pumping from the other tank it supplies the carby and fills up the main tank slowly. Another job on the list......


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/382.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W8j6a9)DSCN1679 (https://flic.kr/p/W8j6a9) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Colin

[gromit]

I was checking the Series 1 over for a run tomorrow (Sandown Racecourse for the Historic Commercial Vehicle Club event) and remembered this...


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/11/555.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vu7MuM)DSCN1745 (https://flic.kr/p/Vu7MuM) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


The handbrake has been moved to allow room for the welder generator to fit in. I always find it difficult to reach because it's not quite where you expect it to be.

Sounds like the exhaust manifold has a small leak so I'll have to fix that next. Nuts don't look like they've been undone for years so could be a fun job.....



Colin

[debruiser]

Sounds like the exhaust manifold has a small leak so I'll have to fix that next. Nuts don't look like they've been undone for years so could be a fun job.....



Colin

Lanox is your friend! :D

[gromit]

Just remembered the interesting item I found behind the instrument panel.

There is a lot of additional wiring because of the dual tanks (two pumps & two fuel senders), indicators, worklights, heater, the welder etc.

Roughly in the middle of the picture below, with some red insulating tape wrapped round the base.....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/62.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W8jPqm)DSCF3501 (https://flic.kr/p/W8jPqm) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


It's a headlamp globe, added into the wiring. It connects to a switch that I think was for the rear worklight

At the time I just checked all the connections were good, carefully pushed it all back into place and screwed the instrument panel back in place and put it to the back of my mind. All is well but I did add a new fire extinguisher ( I didn't want to use the old yellow one that came with it !)

The large meter at the top of the panel is a voltmeter for the welder.


Colin

[wrinklearthur]

Just remembered the interesting item I found behind the instrument panel.-------
Roughly in the middle of the picture below, with some red insulating tape wrapped round the base.....
It's a headlamp globe, added into the wiring. It connects to a switch that I think was for the rear worklight.

Hi Colin

Without having the benefit of close inspection, that bulb is most likely taking the place of a fuse, if there is a current overload of the wiring the bulb lights up instead of a fuse blowing.

.

[gromit]

Hi Colin

Without having the benefit of close inspection, that bulb is most likely taking the place of a fuse, if there is a current overload of the wiring the bulb lights up instead of a fuse blowing.

.

Arthur,

Problem is you'd only notice the overload in the dark.
I wondered if it was acting as a resistor, or a load in a circuit. Next time I get her out I'll confirm what that switch does, I'm fairly sure it's the worklight at the back of the vehicle.


Colin

[wrinklearthur]

Arthur,

Problem is you'd only notice the overload in the dark.
I wondered if it was acting as a resistor, or a load in a circuit. Next time I get her out I'll confirm what that switch does, I'm fairly sure it's the worklight at the back of the vehicle.
Hi Colin

Be careful there, It might be the Gremlin's reading lamp. :p

.

[gromit]

Hi Colin

Be careful there, It might be the Gremlin's reading lamp. :p

.

Arthur,

Touch wood I haven't had any Gremlins with this vehicle so maybe the globe has blown and the Gremlin can't see what it's doing ?


Colin

[gromit]

I took the Series 1 out for a run last weekend.
I still need to fix the blowing exhaust manifold. The nuts on the studs in the exhaust manifold will not come undone so I will do the job in the back shed (no power) just in case I have to drill out and replace the studs and the car is without a manifold for a while. Looks like the exhast tappet cover has to come off to allow access to one of the manifold bolts, might as well check the exhaust tappets at the same time.


On the front driveway after a few checks ready for a drive.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/504.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHBVEc)DSCN2361 (https://flic.kr/p/WHBVEc) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The home made (OK work made) governor pulley and oiltite governor.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/505.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W8kezy)DSCN2365 (https://flic.kr/p/W8kezy) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Dual fuel pump and regulator assembly.
The non-return in one Facet is leaking so I need to replace it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/506.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WE3utL)DSCN2366 (https://flic.kr/p/WE3utL) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Capstan winch. Steel mounts for the fairlead roller (is this correct ?)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/507.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WE3syU)DSCN2368 (https://flic.kr/p/WE3syU) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Colin

[gromit]

Decided to fix the blowing exhaust, the job has been on the to-do list for a while but I've had too many other projects etc.
Late last night I went down to the back shed with a torch....
I'd soaked the manifold nuts in Plus Gas the day before (brought out with all my stuff from the UK years ago). Three nuts holding the exhaust pipe came undone, but there were virtually no threads left (just rust holding it all together). One stud sheared off which was to be expected. I had to take care with the exhaust gasket because it looked suspiciously like asbestos.
Had to remove the side cover to access the front and rear nuts on the manifold but all came undone OK.

Took the manifold back to a shed with lights ! Cleaned up the block side with a file, some distortion where the manifold was clamped.
Now need to extract the three remaining studs & drill out the broken one, they were left soaking in Plus Gas overnight.

One thing I found surprising was that the studs/nuts holding the exhaust pipe to the manifold were UNF, I was expecting BSF. Not sure if this is original or has been repaired at some point in it's life.

I also noticed that the steering relay is leaking, I haven't touched this since I've owned the vehicle (apart from topping it up) so I think I'll drop the bottom plate and fit a new seal & gasket.

Off to 4-Wheel Drives for gaskets, studs etc. later today.

Pictures to follow.


Colin

[gromit]

Removed the broken stud by careful drilling out then picking out the threads.
The other 3 studs came out with heat, Plus Gas, gentle persuasion & more heat & Plus Gas. Thread in the exhaust manifold is 5/16" BSF.

Got some studs from 4-Wheel Drives but they are for later models and are UNF thread. The unthreaded section in the centre looked a possibility so I hacksawed some of the end off and cut a 5/16" BSF thread.
Then found some manifold nuts (brass - extra long) and they fitted ! These were collected in the UK many years ago and have been sitting gathering dust.

Manifold off, head needs cleaning up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/808.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHCjSV)DSCN2641 (https://flic.kr/p/WHCjSV) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Broken stud. Flats filed on the others to help get some grip in the vice.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/809.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W8kKRf)DSCN2634 (https://flic.kr/p/W8kKRf) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Manifold filed flat.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/810.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vu8YWx)DSCN2638 (https://flic.kr/p/Vu8YWx) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

New stud furthest away, then one that's cut down & rethreaded and an original.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/811.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W8kHfd)DSCN2637 (https://flic.kr/p/W8kHfd) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Hope to find time tomorrow to re-fit. Might use a smear of exhaust cement on the gaskets becuase the surface of the manifold is quite pitted in places.


Colin

[chazza]

Might use a smear of exhaust cement on the gaskets becuase the surface of the manifold is quite pitted in places.

Colin

Nice work cobber!

Try using Loctite High-temp silicone for the gasket. I have used it with great success on my V8 and finally stopped the exhaust leaks for about 5 years now,

Cheers Charlie

[gromit]

Nice work cobber!

Try using Loctite High-temp silicone for the gasket. I have used it with great success on my V8 and finally stopped the exhaust leaks for about 5 years now,

Cheers Charlie

Charlie,

I've never really been a silicon user, had issues in the past (20 years ago) and have stuck with traditional sealants since.
I used a fire clay type exhaust sealant, only a smear.
Just ran her up and apart from some smoke as the fire clay sets and the copper grease burns off she sounds a lot better.

I usually just grease the side cover gaskets but because this had to come off to allow me to tighten the end nuts on the manifold I used a dab of Permatex non-setting at the top corners. The rest of it was greased.

Side cover gasket in position.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/750.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vrqe6G)DSCN2648 (https://flic.kr/p/Vrqe6G) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Finished and running to cook the exhaust cement.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/751.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WE48KE)DSCN2650 (https://flic.kr/p/WE48KE) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Just need to remove the steering arm and drop the bottom cap from the steering relay to replace a seal. Then once the weather improves time for a check over and a few local runs.



Colin

[gromit]

Decided to sort out the steering relay today.
I topped it up some time ago but it's decided to leak out all the oil. I haven't touched it since I got it so probably many, many years since any work was done on it.

Dropped the steering arm and removed the collar, all the bolts came undone easily.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/596.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vu9o68)DSCN2686 (https://flic.kr/p/Vu9o68) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/597.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vrqx4q)DSCN2687 (https://flic.kr/p/Vrqx4q) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Endcap bolts came undone easily.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/598.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WE4jJy)DSCN2690 (https://flic.kr/p/WE4jJy) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Degreased all the parts.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/599.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WE4ibJ)DSCN2692 (https://flic.kr/p/WE4ibJ) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The locating collar needed repainting (a bit rusty) but I had one already done from a Series III. Pressed out the old seal which was rock hard and pressed in a new one. Then re-assembled with a new paper gasket and some Permatex non setting gasket cement.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/600.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vu9pQF)DSCN2693 (https://flic.kr/p/Vu9pQF) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I did consider replacing the top seal but decided to leave that for another day. Just topped up with EP90 via an oil can.

Need to get it out of the shed later in the week and clean it and run through a few checks before taking it out for a run.


Colin

[gromit]

Decided to give the Series 1 a quick check over.

The brakes had started to squeal last time it was used so off with the wheels.
The rears needed the dust cleaned out, both fronts were OK but.......one of the wheel cylinders was weeping. I fitted new cylinders to the rear and just put seal kits through the fronts so time for some replacements.

Other than that everything else checked out OK.

While I had the wheels off I took a couple of pictures of the 'coil over' conversion.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/429.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VrqN6j)DSCN2827 (https://flic.kr/p/VrqN6j) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/430.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WvZKcc)DSCN2828 (https://flic.kr/p/WvZKcc) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr



Colin

[Charlie's brother]

Hi there, the windscreen wiper motor looks very much like the ones that are fitted to the Mk V Jaguar and I notice that you have the cable drive system for the wipers as well

Cheers Nick

[gromit]

Hi there, the windscreen wiper motor looks very much like the ones that are fitted to the Mk V Jaguar and I notice that you have the cable drive system for the wipers as well

Cheers Nick


Nick,

Another of the many modifications by the first owner.
His Granson said he thought the wiper system was from a period British car but didn't know exactly what.

Like the auxilliary fuel tank, don't know what the donor vehicle was but the filler neck has been moved to suit the Land Rover and the sender works directly with the Land Rover gauge. There is a changeover switch on the dash that changes which fuel pump is used and also which sender connects to the gauge.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/366.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VyTjh7)DSCN1752 (https://flic.kr/p/VyTjh7) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/367.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHy8hD)DSCF3446 (https://flic.kr/p/WHy8hD) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Colin

[UncleHo]

G'day Gromit :)

Yup! remember that from Cooma 08 I went down with Incisor,that windscreen wiper motor looks like Series 3 (2nd type) also common to Morris 1100's etc, and possibly 2 dr RRC's, as are the fuel tank with changed filler, and the coil-over same as my 85 RRC.

I too hope to be fit enough to go to the 70th,age being my drawback ;)

cheers

[digger]

I too hope to be fit enough to go to the 70th,age being my drawback ;)

cheers


What Uncle? Too young to go?? :) :angel:

[gromit]

FLU has gone......







The rego has now changed and it's on Club Permit.

Every year I was getting grief from SWMBO, now it's gone from $600 for full rego to $69 for 45days permit. I doubt whether I'll use all 45 days but if I do I can add another 45days.

The Club Permit system is the way to go (in VIC anyway). Either join a club or form your own and get it approved by VicRoads.



Colin

[gromit]

As part of the safety check for the Club Permit I found that the front wheel cylinders were weeping. These were the originals that I freed off and resealed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/916.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WE4ycf)DSCN2944 (https://flic.kr/p/WE4ycf) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

You can see some wrinkled paint from bleeding originally to get a firm pedal (I've now found a brakefluid resistant paint !).
I fitted some aftermarket cylinders but not until I had stripped them, cleaned & red rubber greased them. They seemed to have oil on the pistons as supplied.

Today I pulled the originals apart and the seals are perfect but there was some corrosion around one piston. They are hard chromed pistons but one was rusted, I cleaned it up and greased it but it ended up corroding again.
This time I treated it with phosphoric acid then honed the cylinder bores and after thorough cleaning re-assembled with red rubber grease.
They'll do as spares.

Need to change the rego on my insurance and get out and use it occasionally.


Colin

[Bundy]

Hi Gromit

Just wondering what paint you use that is brake fluid resistant? I would like to get some.

Thanks Paul

[slug_burner]

Try these PPC - Restoration Specialists (http://www.ppcco.com.au/) or Rust Stops Here - Paint - Tank Sealer - for rusty surfaces - KBS Coatings (http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/). Both produce paints that can only be removed by physical abrasion, chemical paint removers will not shift the coatings they provide. Not everyone likes them as they go off with moisture can bubble if put on too thick and you have to schedule your painting to get the coats on before the earlier coat goes too hard.

[gromit]

Hi Gromit

Just wondering what paint you use that is brake fluid resistant? I would like to get some.

Thanks Paul

It's a brake caliper paint from SuperCheap in a rattle can. States it's 'brake dust resistant' which is odd but I think they mean brake fluid resistant.
Did some trials and it definitely resists brake fluid.
It's available in red, blue & yellow but if you look at the back of the cabinet you'll find black (not a popular colour with the boy racers).


Colin

[MattyGM]

Hi Gromit,

just went through your thread, that is definitely an aircraft generator connected to the PTO (heaven knows I have adjusted hundreds of newer ones).

Wonderful old machine with so much history, great to see it being looked after and used

Cheers
Matt

[gromit]

Hi Gromit,

just went through your thread, that is definitely an aircraft generator connected to the PTO (heaven knows I have adjusted hundreds of newer ones).

Wonderful old machine with so much history, great to see it being looked after and used

Cheers
Matt

Matt

I keep saying I'm going to try out the welder but don't get round to it.
Apparently the previous owner used it so I should pluck up the courage (and get a fire extinguisher ready)......


Colin

[MattyGM]

Matt

I keep saying I'm going to try out the welder but don't get round to it.
Apparently the previous owner used it so I should pluck up the courage (and get a fire extinguisher ready)......


Colin

Definitely with the extinguisher handy but those generators are pretty tough units, can ask one of the sparkies I used to work with (I am a fitter/machinist) the specs on the 747/767 units, would be pretty close by the look of that.

Cheers
Matt

[JDNSW]

Definitely with the extinguisher handy but those generators are pretty tough units, can ask one of the sparkies I used to work with (I am a fitter/machinist) the specs on the 747/767 units, would be pretty close by the look of that.

Cheers
Matt

I doubt it is even very close (although knowing how conservative things tend to be in the aviation world, where everything needs to be certified, I may be wrong). Given the apparent vintage of the conversion (1950s) it is a pretty good guess that the generator is a disposals unit from WW2, possibly Korean war. (But the 747 is a 1960s design and electrical equipment could well be very similar to that used in the 1940s - after all, significant parts of the 1960s Landrovers date to that era; for example, the six cylinder engine was patented in 1940 - and the diffs and gearbox went back to the 1930s.)

John

[MattyGM]

I doubt it is even very close (although knowing how conservative things tend to be in the aviation world, where everything needs to be certified, I may be wrong). Given the apparent vintage of the conversion (1950s) it is a pretty good guess that the generator is a disposals unit from WW2, possibly Korean war. (But the 747 is a 1960s design and electrical equipment could well be very similar to that used in the 1940s - after all, significant parts of the 1960s Landrovers date to that era; for example, the six cylinder engine was patented in 1940 - and the diffs and gearbox went back to the 1930s.)

John

The housings look identical and somehow I doubt they have changed much over the years. I assume US aircraft have used 28 V DC and 115 V AC for quite a long time

Cheers
Matt

[gromit]

I'll have to take some better photos of the generator, the one below was taken soon after I collected it.

I can see Type P3 on the label and the serial number starts with ES.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/681.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WMre1J)DSCF2135 (https://flic.kr/p/WMre1J) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

[harry]

p3 is a good indication , but what other data is on the plate, serial no doesn't mean much.
biggest question is what voltage is it?
all wartime aircraft that may have had that bolted to their big old radial engine would have been 24 volt,
I doubt that it came from a jet engine, but if so may well have been 115 ac.
can you give us all the data on that plate?

[gromit]

p3 is a good indication , but what other data is on the plate, serial no doesn't mean much.
biggest question is what voltage is it?
all wartime aircraft that may have had that bolted to their big old radial engine would have been 24 volt,
I doubt that it came from a jet engine, but if so may well have been 115 ac.
can you give us all the data on that plate?

The plate is difficult to read, there is a layer of what looks like varnish which has turned brown with age.
I had a quick look last night and it looked like 30V but the previous owner said get it up to about 60Volts (on the voltmeter) for welding. I need to check the plate and also the scale on the meter.

Mention here of a P3 system http://www.bywat.co.uk/equip/elec.html
28Volts DC.

Colin

[MattyGM]

The plate is difficult to read, there is a layer of what looks like varnish which has turned brown with age.
I had a quick look last night and it looked like 30V but the previous owner said get it up to about 60Volts (on the voltmeter) for welding. I need to check the plate and also the scale on the meter.

Mention here of a P3 system Canberra Electrical Systems (http://www.bywat.co.uk/equip/elec.html)
28Volts DC.

Colin

That is a type of varnish/electrical sealant, you can gently get it off if you like though it wont be easy. Maybe some scotch-brite or very fine steel wool however it would be easy to take off the paint underneath. You could also try a razor blade. Being an older varnish type methylated spirits may get it off too.

If in doubt just a clean with soapy water on a rag is about all you can do safely if you want to keep it looking original.

Hope that is some help
Matt

[JDNSW]

The housings look identical and somehow I doubt they have changed much over the years. I assume US aircraft have used 28 V DC and 115 V AC for quite a long time

Cheers
Matt

Yes, 28v DC and 115v 400Hz were established standards in WW2 (and possibly before). If this unit is being used as a welder, I'll bet it is 28v. (Although the actual voltage will be dependent on engine rpm and current draw. As a welder it is probably completely unregulated.

John

[harry]

it looks to me to be a generator off a radial engine, I didn't think the Canberra would have been fitted with such an antique bit of kit,
and yes, I bet it is 28 volt, I don't think you would be able to get 60 volts out of it.
reading the Canberra stuff, 400 amps is mentioned, that would throw a good arc.
to read the name plate, just wipe some thinners on a rag over it gently to only take the varnish off.
most of those plates had acid etched lettering, so the lettering was raised over the black background paint.
if you did wipe off all the paint the writing would most likely still be evident by the corrosion of the unpainted lettering.


I will ask my aircraft generator ace tomorrow, forgot about this until now.

[gromit]

OK, maybe it was 30 Volts.......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/566.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WDmGYv)DSCN2960 (https://flic.kr/p/WDmGYv) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

For some reason 60 Volts stuck in my mind but looking at the voltmeter 30 Volts is about right.



Colin

[gromit]

Just took delivery of a master cylinder thanks to wrinklearthur highlighting the Minerva ones for sale on Ebay. Not sure if it's NOS or a replica.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/07/569.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHD9tM)DSCF2136 (https://flic.kr/p/WHD9tM) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Mine has a damaged lug on the mounting flange. I slipped the broken piece under the bolt head when I put it back on and it's still there.
I just honed it and re-sealed it and i'ts always been in the back of my mind to get a replacement, well now I have one....
Now that I have a replacement the original will never play up of course.

You can see the unpainted broken part of the lug in this picture.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/530.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WvVgf8)DSCF3457 (https://flic.kr/p/WvVgf8) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

One thing I do remember is that the overhaul kit I purchased came with the copper washer for the end cap. It leaked like a seive. When I took it apart I found the copper hadn't been annealed and there was a mark across the sealing surface. Annealed the original washer and it has been OK since 2008.


Comparing the photo of the original with the Minerva one, the ports are offset on the original whereas they are in the centre of the body on the Minerva unit.
If that's the only difference it just means re-bending the pipes slightly.



Colin

[chazza]

Mine had a broken lug as well; so I put a piece of copper where the hole should have been; pre-heated the stripped master cylinder to a very dull-red; and built the missing lug up with Weldall arc electrodes; post heated it and when it had cooled naturally, I filed my welding to shape,

Cheers Charlie

[gromit]

Just checking the Series I over for a run to Yarra Glen tomorrow Home - Historic Commercial Vehicle Club of Australia (http://www.hcvc.com.au/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/890.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WsDDvS)DSCF1891 (https://flic.kr/p/WsDDvS) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Found a brake light out so had to take one of it's Pork Pies apart for the first time in many years. Then found a huge Huntsman guarding a sac of eggs in the storage lockers, quickly found that a new home.

Petrol is a bit stale but she started & ran OK, a quick wash over and later today I'll fill out the logbook and take her for a short drive to get some petrol.


Colin

[gromit]

Left the Series I out last night for an early getaway this morning at 6am to go to the Wantirna market.
A quick look round and then off to Maccas on the way to Yarra Glen.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/1029.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WsDZgo)DSCN3320 (https://flic.kr/p/WsDZgo) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Fantastic event, Yarra Glen Racecourse is a better venue than Sandown racecourse. Some great restored & unrestored trucks.

Interesting chats with a number of people about the Landy and several discussions about whether to restore or not restore.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/693.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHDsZp)DSCF3049 (https://flic.kr/p/WHDsZp) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr



Picked up some plastic lens sidelights for the series I (copies of the original Lucas ones), a couple of leads to Dormobiles (people making phonecalls & getting back to me) and then.......


a possible '48 for sale, have to go and look at it and check out the chassis number :)


Colin

[gromit]

Checked the sidelights I picked up at the weekend. Two have plastic lenses the others are glass. Not Lucas but a fair period copy and at $10 per pair you can't complain (some of the Lucas glass lenses were $25 each !)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/11/570.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VBubcM)DSCN3323 (https://flic.kr/p/VBubcM) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Forgot to mention before, met Chops, Rangieman & Reachjatt at the Historic Commercial Vehicle show.

Need to follow up on the '48 I was offered at the show, probably turn out to be a '49 or '50..........


Colin

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Nice pick up! :BigThumb:

[gromit]

Followed up on the '48 that I was offered at the Historic Commercial Vehicle show.
Despite asking questions about where the headlamps are mounted, size of speedo etc. it turned out to be, according to CalVIN, a 1956 88".
Has a 2.25 fitted, missing one door & both doortops, tin sheet riveted onto hoops to make a hardtop. Bulkhead didn't look too bad but it was raining and I was a bit disappointed so I didn't spend much time looking.
Vehicle is in Taylors Lakes and he's after $1200. I'll post in vehicles for sale when I get a chance.


Colin

[gromit]

Still learning about the extras added by the original owner. Following on from a thread about Smiths heaters it looks like mine is fitted with a home made job !

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/828.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WDoEor)DSCN3522 (https://flic.kr/p/WDoEor) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Good heat output, especially in the summer (must replace the on/off valve on the engine) but no demisters.
I wonder what the matrix came out of ?


Colin

[damiane]

Thanks for pointing me to this Colin. What a little ripper of a vehicle. Shows the sort of ingenuity that Wilks displayed in first putting it together; another time I guess.

Damian

[gromit]

Checked the Series I over the other day ready for some local jaunts and found one headlight was not working. On dip the filament had the slightest glimmer but nothing on main beam.

Removed the headlight first to check the globe and clean out a few spiders. The rubber seal has disintegrated so need to replace at some point in the future.

The wiring is very fragile (original). I'd love to justify fitting a new harness but there are so many electrical modifications it would be a mammoth job to undertake.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/523.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vua8Rp)DSCN3553 (https://flic.kr/p/Vua8Rp) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Eventually tracked it down to a bad earth, cleaned it up and then the indicators played up. Turned out to be a bad connection in the switch on the steering column !

All lights now working, oils checked, ready for some action.



Colin

[gromit]

Took the Series I to Scoresby today to meet with a few other AULRO members.

It was cold, windy and rained quite a bit.

Good to look round all the engines that were running today and also good to catch up with a few other members.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/193.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VrrzFY)DSCF4042 (https://flic.kr/p/VrrzFY) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/194.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W8mPRN)DSCF4046 (https://flic.kr/p/W8mPRN) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

One of a matched pair of Fowler ploughing engines.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/195.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VyWDeQ)DSCF4055 (https://flic.kr/p/VyWDeQ) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

[crackers]

Col, I'm not sure if you noticed, but that last one isn't a Land Rover :eek:

Luv them traction engines. Wonder if they had as much romance when they were in use?

[gromit]

Got the Series I out to give it it's annual wash. 20 minutes later it started to drizzle, then it gradually got heavier & turned into rain.

On the plus side she started first time & drove OK, just a few checks when it's dry ready for the Historic Commercial event in Yarra Glen next weekend.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/1029.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WsDZgo)DSCN3320 (https://flic.kr/p/WsDZgo) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

With the miserable weather I thought I'd have some 'shed time'. I'm in the process of repairing my above ground pool and need to lift some sections of decking. I remembered a tool I found at a boot sale in the UK back in the late 80's but it was missing a depth control foot. Made a foot this morning and it's ready to use when it stops raining.....
Couldn't find any info on the internet, I've seen one other and that was also at a boot sale in the UK.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/1030.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WMHBcm)DSCN3673 (https://flic.kr/p/WMHBcm) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Colin

[gromit]

Took the Series I for a drive today.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?p=2448274#post2448274

I must get round to fixing some of the rattles but in general she performed well but held up the traffic in a few places.
Top speed is somewhere around 55mph but it's much less stressed at about 45mph. Nothing has been done to the motor, clutch & gearbox since I got it back in 2007 except for changing the oil & adjusting the tappets and a few maintenance issues like an exhaust gasket.

Have to make up my mind whether to take the welder or Wallit to Rob Roy on 22nd November. Wallet needs some shakedown runs first so need to get moving.........


Colin

[Dinty]

Colin, just out of curiosity what is that tool and it's use? cheers Dennis

[gromit]

Dinty,
It's a floorboard saw.
It has a ratchet drive which is identical to a Stanley brace.
Foot goes into the aluminium section so you can push down then across as you cut a floorboard.

Used years ago in the UK to cut floorboards when installing central heating etc., I guess it dates to the 50's/60's.

Can't find it on an internet search and I've only seen two.
Markings are

Floorboard Cutter
Model TC4
Patents Pending
Made in England by
Melway Products
Maidenhead
Berkshire


Colin

[Lionelgee]

Dinty,

Can't find it on an internet search and I've only seen two.
Markings are

Floorboard Cutter
Model TC4
Patents Pending
Made in England by
Melway Products
Maidenhead
Berkshire

Colin

Hello Colin,

I found one that had been on sale on eBay and they showed some photographs. Accessed 10th November 2015 from, THE Delway Floorboarding Tongue Cutter Model TC4 PAT Pending C 1970s | eBay (http://www.ebay.ph/itm/The-Delway-floorboarding-tongue-cutter-Model-TC4-Pat-Pending-c-1970s-/151829777101).

The last photograph shows the foot clearly.

With the final price it would have cost more to post than to buy.

I like old wood working tools BTW. :)

Kind Regards
Lionel

[gromit]

Thanks Lionel,

The one listed is also missing the depth adjustment stop but it does have what looks like a rubber edge on the aluminium section. Mine has a line of glue, I guessed there was something fitted there.

Is there a section on the forum for old woodworking tools ? I have about 20-30 planes, many saws, braces, bits, spokeshaves, draw knives etc. etc. Most obtained from boot sales or trash & treasure sales for minimal sums plus a few inherited from my Dad. Then there are all the carving tool for making rocking horses.....
I've just about finished a pole lathe & shave horse.

I easily get distracted and move on to another project......



Colin

[Lionelgee]

Thanks Lionel,

The one listed is also missing the depth adjustment stop but it does have what looks like a rubber edge on the aluminium section. Mine has a line of glue, I guessed there was something fitted there.

Colin

Hello Colin,

You mean a depth gauge like in this photograph :)

Accessed 10th November 2015 from, Delway Floorboard Cutter Model TC4 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DELWAY-FLOORBOARD-CUTTER-MODEL-TC4-/191671906502?clk_rvr_id=927314138497&rmvSB=true&nma=true&si=SySlZrWsRGU6J8mmFLFk9HqZ%252Bx4%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557)

Plus some showing the rubber strip
Accessed 10th November 2015 from, Vintage Delway Floorboard Cutter, Model TC4, made in England (09/10/2014) (http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-delway-floorboard-cutter-840841247)

Another photograph of one that sold along with what looks like its original packaging Accessed 10th November 2015 from, https://www.easyliveauction.com/auction_lots.cfm?itemID=17824BFCCD4943D1F805FCEADE FD0529D8D4CAEA

Kind Regards
Lionel

[gromit]

Thanks Lionel,
The depth guide looks simpler than the one I made !

Colin

[Lionelgee]

Thanks Lionel,
The depth guide looks simpler than the one I made !

Colin

G'day Colin,

You can just grab a bit of scrap alloy and start up your mill-drill. Or whatever that bit of precision machinery was shown back in the Isuzu C240 thread?

Kind Regards
Lionel

[gromit]

Took the Series I to the Scoresby Steam rally today.

Yesterday while checking it over I decided to try the windscreen washers and there was no water movement. There isn't a non-return valve so I buzzed it a few times then it just stopped working.
After stripping the pump down I found a plastic gear running on a plastic shaft with no water it had seized !
Managed to get it apart, scraped the shaft & inside the gear, added a dob of waterproof grease and got it working again......

Uneventful trip to Scoresby apart from a few people in modern cars tailgating, seem to think that if they drive really close somehow the old Series I will go faster ?!

Here she is with Marcus (Chops) with his Defender.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/876.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WQVB9T)DSCF5156 (https://flic.kr/p/WQVB9T) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Lots of interesting vehicles, a few Perenties and many people who came up to talk about Land Rovers they had owned earlier in their lives.
Met someone who nearly owned my Series I, in fact I met him at Cooma in 2008 when he rushed up and said 'I nearly purchased that a couple of years ago".


Colin

[B.S.F.]

Are those rope guide brackets home made? They look different.
.W.

[gromit]

Are those rope guide brackets home made? They look different.
.W.

Yes they seem to be home made.
Someone commented at Cooma that the winch wasn't 'correct', something to do with the shape of the raised lip around the capstan. I'll have to post a few photos.

Colin

[gromit]

Close up of the winch & roller.
Brackets are steel fabrications, yet another modification by the original owner.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/875.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Ws6oYY)DSCN2369 (https://flic.kr/p/Ws6oYY) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

[B.S.F.]

Close up of the winch & roller.
Brackets are steel fabrications, yet another modification by the original owner

They certainly appear to be a lot stronger than the original ones, which tend to break when you pull at an angle, and the rope rubs against them. I know you're not supposed to, but sometimes it can't be avoided.
.W.

[gromit]

All the old photos now gone thanks to Photobucket, not going to pay their ransom demand of US$399 per annum !

Will look into adding photos when I get time ........

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/07/106.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WsyNRt)DSCF4232 (https://flic.kr/p/WsyNRt) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr




Colin

[gromit]

Time to dust off the Series I and get ready for a few local trips.

Next weekend is the Historic Commercial Vehicle rally @ Yarra Glen so decided to take it for a run. Started first time after being standing in the garage for some months so onto the front garden for a quick wash.
Then bled the brakes to flush through some fresh brake fluid ( also flushed the Defender and the wife's Territory ).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/109.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Z6m1rQ)DSCN4570 (https://flic.kr/p/Z6m1rQ) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Then took it for a drive to Dandenong & back. I keep meaning to get a sign to put on the back "It doesn't matter how close you are behind me.... I can't go any faster"

As soon as I got back I dropped the oil and managed to change the filter without getting too much oil up my arm.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/110.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2169He9)DSCN4572 (https://flic.kr/p/2169He9) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

A few more checks during the week and then off to Yarra Glen on Sunday.



Colin

[gromit]

Decided to check the transfer box oil, haven't done it for ages.

First checked the gearbox, easy with the dipstick and you can do it from the comfort of the drivers seat.
Then underneath to remove the transfer box level plug. Then the difficult part........because of the position of the welder generator it's a struggle to remove the filler plug.
At the back of my workbench is a plastic funnel jammed into a piece of irrigation hose, dug that out and inserted into the transfer box. Didn't take much to top up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/287.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21iEqe5)DSCN4575 (https://flic.kr/p/21iEqe5) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Then checked the front brakes, pulled the drums and all looked OK, no leaks etc. Checked the swivel hubs & topped up with oil.
Found a UJ on the rear propshaft that may need attention, looks like one cup is moving. Don't have a spare so greased it for the trip tomorrow and will organise getting one.

Pumped up the tyres, including the spare.

Ready for the Historic Commercial Vehicle show tomorrow.



Colin

[Johnno_p]

Ready for the Historic Commercial Vehicle show tomorrow.

Colin

Where is the show?

[gromit]

Where is the show?

Yarra Glen, I posted details in 'Upcoming Events'.




Colin

[gromit]

Gave the old girl a good run to Yarra Glen & back yesterday.

Nearly got rear ended a few times pulling away from junctions, as I change (slowly) from 1st to 2nd following cars somehow don't realise it's an old vehicle and are right up to the rear crossmember !

It's fitted with a Holden carby with an adjustable main jet and it's always been a bit on the rich side but the theory is it won't easily burn out exhaust valves. Add to this the fact that the timing hasn't been adjusted since I purchased it and the following problem might be self evident.

A few times when arriving home you turn the motor off and as it almost stops revolving it backfires. Well now it seems to be doing it on gear changes as well.

1st thing I'll check is the points gap and then I'll have to look at the timing. Finally I might lean it off a bit.

On the plus side the temperature didn't rise above normal (previous owner fitted a temperature gauge) and apart from the backfiring it ran OK considering the minimal work I've done on the engine.



Colin

[gromit]

Looks like the Series I will get to Cooma on a trailer.

My co-driver for the 2008 event isn't well enough and the young bloke is on L's.
The Father-in-law has fibrosis of the lungs so he's easily out of breath. He was towing a Suzuki Jimney behind his motor home as he traveled round Australia and he's decided that he'll leave the Jimney behind now.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/471.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HCTvee)IMG_1370 (https://flic.kr/p/HCTvee) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


The trailer is now at my place and it looks like I have some work ahead.
Remove solar panels & water tank, re-design the ramps, remove some of the boxes at the front and try to work out how to fit a LWB on the trailer. A shorty goes on without an issue but might be handy to modify it for a LWB......



Colin

[rangieman]

Looks like the Series I will get to Cooma on a trailer.

My co-driver for the 2008 event isn't well enough and the young bloke is on L's.
The Father-in-law has fibrosis of the lungs so he's easily out of breath. He was towing a Suzuki Jimney behind his motor home as he traveled round Australia and he's decided that he'll leave the Jimney behind now.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/471.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HCTvee)IMG_1370 (https://flic.kr/p/HCTvee) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


The trailer is now at my place and it looks like I have some work ahead.
Remove solar panels & water tank, re-design the ramps, remove some of the boxes at the front and try to work out how to fit a LWB on the trailer. A shorty goes on without an issue but might be handy to modify it for a LWB......



Colin
Nice trailer mate [thumbsupbig]
Unless you are going to be 7,5 metres in combined length or longer id lose those signs on the ramps as some Vic roads guys could take their book out for that one [wink11]

[gromit]

Nice trailer mate [thumbsupbig] Unless you are going to be 7,5 metres in combined length or longer id lose those signs on the ramps as some Vic roads guys could take their book out for that one [wink11] Thanks Chris, That is on the list....... Colin

[gromit]

Solar panel frame removed from trailer along with an assortment of boxes, water tanks etc.
Need to get some steel to lengthen the deck and fit a small box on the A-frame to house the breakaway brake battery and some tie down straps.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/111.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/238euyY)DSCN4607 (https://flic.kr/p/238euyY) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I should also make an effort to try the welder out on the Series I before Cooma !!


Colin

[gromit]

Did some more work on the trailer today, fitted a beavertail.
My DIY MIG welder is about 25 years old and it does the job but I decided to tack weld the main components and then I'll take the trailer into work and use a decent welder.
Added 500mm to the rear and will add 500mm to the front that way it will take a LWB.

Need to fit the hand winch and a box to the drawbar. It came with a box but I had to cut it off to extend the front.

SWMBO commented "Why are you making it long enough for a LWB ? You're not buying any more !!". Thinking quickly I answered "It's in case one of the LWB's breaks down and I have to tow it home.....". I must of hesitated briefly because she clearly didn't believe me !

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/02/97.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22EfKzT)DSCN4641 (https://flic.kr/p/22EfKzT) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I'll have to run some temporary wiring for the lights then once the welding is finished do it properly.
I'm considering taking the box in the floor out as well. It takes the spare wheel but you'd have to remove the vehicle being towed to get to it. A crossmember was cut out by the father-in-law to fit the box but I have another to fit if I go ahead.


Colin

[rangieman]

Colin looking good [thumbsupbig]
If you want i have a 250 amp mig your welcome to borrow if it help`s[wink11]

[gromit]

Colin looking good [thumbsupbig]
If you want i have a 250 amp mig your welcome to borrow if it help`s[wink11]

Thanks Chris,

I actually have a big MIG welder I was given but I've never used it before so rather than learn while welding this trailer I thought I'd get someone at work to set up the works welder. Bonus is they probably have a better power supply at work than me working at the end of an extension lead. Double bonus is it's their wire & gas..........



Colin

[gromit]

This is fast becoming a 'trailer' thread......

Started on the front extension after chopping out the front rail etc.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/02/165.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22ZYfoh)DSCN4644 (https://flic.kr/p/22ZYfoh) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Here is the other welder in the shed, I really need to play with it to get used to the settings etc. Mind you I should see if Google can provide a manual....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/02/166.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/245R9Jz)DSCN4643 (https://flic.kr/p/245R9Jz) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I'll have to drag it out & have a look.

Getting the series I ready for Cooma in 2007, doesn't time fly..... Getting the Series 1 Ready for Cooma (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/46683-getting-series-1-ready-cooma.html)

Some comments after Cooma 2008 Made it to Cooma & back (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/53933-made-cooma-back.html)


Colin

[Chops]

You should be able to get online instructions with a Transmig, I think they're a fairly common unit. Also, I think (?) there's a shop on Greens Rd not far from the rail Xing which is a base for these too Colin. The other option is I can give you a crash course with some tips on it if you like.

[gromit]

You should be able to get online instructions with a Transmig, I think they're a fairly common unit. Also, I think (?) there's a shop on Greens Rd not far from the rail Xing which is a base for these too Colin. The other option is I can give you a crash course with some tips on it if you like.

Thanks Marcus,
I'll see how I go getting it done at work, should be ready in a couple of weeks.
If that doesn't work out I'll give you a call.....

Colin

[Chops]

Thanks Marcus,
I'll see how I go getting it done at work, should be ready in a couple of weeks.
If that doesn't work out I'll give you a call.....

Colin


Too easy mate. That arrangement we had last week, sorry [bigwhistle],,,, I'll see if I can make it happen this week, I'll text you later about a time.

[gromit]

The trailer is just about finished, took it to work to do the structural welding.

It would probably have taken the Series I OK but I knew if I didn't modify it to take a LWB then at some point in the future I'd curse myself when I have a trailer at home but I had to hire one because I'd 'found' another LWB.

Anyway, needs some scraping & painting underneath but otherwise it's re-wired and ready to go. Finishing off the ramps I ran out of wire ! My welder was purchased about 25 years ago in the UK so I wondered if the wire spool size was the same.....luckily it was so Bunnings to the rescue.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/172.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/253finm)DSCN4667 (https://flic.kr/p/253finm) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/173.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/253fkYd)IMG_1549 (https://flic.kr/p/253fkYd) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/174.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GYi4FA)DSCN4665 (https://flic.kr/p/GYi4FA) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Got the Series I out of the shed, it was last used in November, started first time and runs as good as it did when I took it to Cooma in 2008.

Drained & re-filled the diffs and also did a coolant change.
Brake fluid was changed last year along with the engine oil.

I'll be at Corowa next weekend but the following one I'll trial load onto the trailer then I'll work out how to tie it down......


Colin

[rangieman]

Looking good mate [thumbsupbig]

[shamirj]

Just a word of warning re that number plate location, i know there is not much in way of options for number plate locations on these trailers but i recently hired one with number plate in same location with a tilt in the rear as yours and almost ripped the number plate off. by the looks of the number plate i was not the first either. they just hang far too low not a problem when driving on flat surfaces but the minute you drive into a drive way which may have a angle they scrape badly. just a thought otherwise keep up the good work.

[gromit]

Just a word of warning re that number plate location, i know there is not much in way of options for number plate locations on these trailers but i recently hired one with number plate in same location with a tilt in the rear as yours and almost ripped the number plate off. by the looks of the number plate i was not the first either. they just hang far too low not a problem when driving on flat surfaces but the minute you drive into a drive way which may have a angle they scrape badly. just a thought otherwise keep up the good work.
That’s why I hinged it so that it swings out of the way if it contacts the ground.

Colin

[gromit]

Just took the trailer for a test run, need to sorts some straps out during the week before heading to Cooma.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/406.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/246XD34)IMG_1582 (https://flic.kr/p/246XD34) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/03/407.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25sSp2F)IMG_1583 (https://flic.kr/p/25sSp2F) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Towed well and brakes worked OK. It's fitted with both electric & override brakes but I'm only using the override (car isn't wired for electric).


Colin

[gromit]

OK so 10 years ago I drove it to the 60th this time I trailered it to the 70th.

The trailer handled perfectly, if you hit a rough patch of road it swayed a bit but quickly settled down. I need to sort out how the ramps will fix into/onto the trailer so they were in the back of the tow vehicle for this trip.

On the way up I stopped to help a Series III owner with a puncture. I introduced myself and he said "do you live in Narre Warren", I sad "yes", he then reminded me that a few years ago he gave me a roofrack ! Saw him on the way home, hope you had a safe journey home Ian.

The Series I has probably never traveled as fast as it did on the trailer. Problem was the aerodynamics of the Territory meant the insects travelled with the airflow over the roof then hit the non-aerodynamic windscreen of the Land Rover !

Good to catch up with a few people from the forum, my two boys loved it but did get a bit bored at the Gala night listening to all the advertorials. Some of the speakers were interesting but the awards dragged on a bit.
There was mention of a 75th celebration but we'll have to wait & see if this is 'picked up'. Philip Bashall said that if a 75th goes ahead he'll do his best to get the OTAL (One Ton Amphibious Lightweight) out here. This was designed for the Australian Army, shipped out for trials but never went ahead.

Managed to get in the second row of the parade lineup.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/60.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24DGjFG)DSCF7373 (https://flic.kr/p/24DGjFG) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Series I's from row two/three back. Series II's & III's in the distance

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/61.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24DGkEW)DSCF7380 (https://flic.kr/p/24DGkEW) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Front row at the showgrounds.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/66.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HAH8Mh)DSCF7394 (https://flic.kr/p/HAH8Mh) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Managed to pick up a " Highly Commended Series I 86" Original" award ( found a certificate on the drivers seat when I came back to the car).

Lots of discussions about the welder, lots of people (especially Alien) winding me up about trying the welder out. Someone took a photo of the generator legend plate and was trying to find out what aircraft it came from.....there is the possibility the generator is worth quite a bit on it's own.

Speaking to one of the guys that came over with Gus a tentative 'offer' was made. I said it was in my will to Aidan one of my sons, he turned to Aidan and asked if he had a will......... !

A great time had by all. On the way home my boys were trying to decide which Land Rover they will be driving (for me !) to the 75th or 80th. There were no Dormobiles there and no Tanami's so maybe the welder gets left behind next time ?


Colin

[Dinty]

Colin, I did see you in the parade, I was standing near the intersection Sharp st and Boundary rd I did call out to you but you did not respond I guess maybe too much noise and concentrating on the vehicle in front added to that the bunching up at the corner, anyway I couldn't find you later at the showground either LOL maybe next time cheers Dennis

[gromit]

Colin, I did see you in the parade, I was standing near the intersection Sharp st and Boundary rd I did call out to you but you did not respond I guess maybe too much noise and concentrating on the vehicle in front added to that the bunching up at the corner, anyway I couldn't find you later at the showground either LOL maybe next time cheers Dennis

Dennis,

Several people found the Series I but not me.......I had my two boys with me so we wandered off a few times when they got bored or, more often, when they were hungry.

Next time we need an AULRO stand or need more discussion on who's going, where we can meet etc. etc. Maybe at the 75th if it comes to fruition......

Caught up with several Victorians but mainly because I had their phone numbers. Also caught up with Bevan Fenner a few times (he put me on to the Dormobile I now own). At the 60th his brother John, who has sadly passed, won the best Series I with his LWB ute. On the way home the tow car broke down and they had to tow the tow car home with the show car !! Met John at a Historic Commercial Vehicle rally at Sandown racecourse a couple of years later and he pointed out the stone chips he got on the way back.......


Colin

[gromit]

Found this when I returned to the Series I on the Sunday.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/337.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25YRG3B)IMG_1604 (https://flic.kr/p/25YRG3B) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Sometime soon I'll check the wiring and test the welder but I think it's time for a different Land Rover to go to the 75th or 80th.



Colin

[gromit]

It's been a few months now since Cooma........thought it was about time I cleaned the Series I.
The trip to Cooma & back (on a trailer) was the fastest the old girl has ever traveled so there were a few squashed flies on the windscreen.

Started first time, not bad because the petrol has been in the tank for a long while.
Need to check her over and look at the ignition timing. Runs OK but seems down on power, was backfiring on shut off until I adjusted the points. Timing hasn't been touched since I got her 11 years ago so maybe worth a look.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1971/44412105314_e755239f25_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2aExDBG)DSCN4946 (https://flic.kr/p/2aExDBG) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Colin

[JDNSW]

As I think you know, this Series 1 has fascinated me from the time I first saw it at the 60th. And I appreciate anything you write about it.

[gromit]

As I think you know, this Series 1 has fascinated me from the time I first saw it at the 60th. And I appreciate anything you write about it.

Thanks John,
I keep promising to check out the welder but in 11 years I haven't got round to it.
The engine does seem down on power, at Cooma this year I went to the lookout just out of town and had to drop into low range to get to the top !
Soon after I purchased it I found from the original owners grandson that the head gasket had been changed some 12years earlier (now 23 years ago). Apart from adjusting the tappets, fitting a kit to the Holden carby, plugs, points, condensor, HT leads and some minor repairs nothing else has been touched on the engine since I got it.

Colin

[Lewy110]

Good to meet you yesterday. So many little features on this thing, it was great to see it up close.

[gromit]

Good to meet you yesterday. So many little features on this thing, it was great to see it up close.

Thanks, good to meet you especially because you came so far to attend......

I really must fire the welder up in anger because the previous owner claimed to have used it. I've only been the custodian for the last 11 years and it's slowly working it's way up my 'to do' list !


Colin

[gromit]

Had to replace the battery yesterday.
It only gets used occasionally but I thought it was time for a new one, the one I removed has got to be 8 or so years old.

Started it up and, as usual, after a couple of pumps of the accelerator she fired first time.

Had a check round and started to make a list of things to do when the weather gets better. Also decided to look for a kero fridge for the back. The chap I purchased it from said it had a kero fridge fitted by the original owner, can't find anywhere that a gas bottle would have been stored.
It would have to be very compact, was there a small kero fridge available ?

Coolant needs changing soon and I really need to check the timing and then check through the wiring for the welder. At some point the head needs to come off because it's down on power but doesn't smoke or use much oil, mind you, stale petrol wouldn't help matters. It's always run slightly rich and I haven't fiddled with the Holden carby fitted apart from putting a gasket kit through it 12 years ago......

Someone has recently contacted me to see if I'd sell her but I've decided I'm not ready yet.



Colin

[JDNSW]

Small kero fridges used to exist, but I have not seen one for probably fifty years! Come to think of it, I don't think I have seen a large one for nearly as long!

[goingbush]

made in China,... of course

40l Lpg Gas Kerosene Absorption Mini Camping Caravan Fridge Refrigerator - Buy Absorption Fridge,Camping Fridge,Car Fridge Product on Alibaba.com (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/40L-LPG-Gas-Kerosene-absorption-mini_62157857196.html'spm=a2700.7724857.normalList .1.2c21651bWxCPWY&s=p)

[gromit]

Small kero fridges used to exist, but I have not seen one for probably fifty years! Come to think of it, I don't think I have seen a large one for nearly as long!

Thanks John,

Probably a lost cause then........


Colin

[B.S.F.]

Ive never seen a small kero fridge. We used two of the big ones till about 86. one was a "Charles Hope" the other an "Electrolux". I assume these were the major brands as I've also had an "Electrolux" in PNG in the 60/70s. I've still got the original instruction booklet for the 'Electrolux"
.W.

[Don 130]

made in China,... of course

40l Lpg Gas Kerosene Absorption Mini Camping Caravan Fridge Refrigerator - Buy Absorption Fridge,Camping Fridge,Car Fridge Product on Alibaba.com (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/40L-LPG-Gas-Kerosene-absorption-mini_62157857196.html'spm=a2700.7724857.normalList .1.2c21651bWxCPWY&s=p)

I got sucked in by one of those adds until I read further down. They only run on LPG or 220V electricity

Don.


Power Source:
Gas

Voltage (V):
220

LPG gas:
90g/24h
Thermostat:
Electric/Gas
Voltage:
220V or 110V or 12V
Indicator:
Flame Indicator

Electric Consumption:
0.7kw/24h

Thermostat Electric/Gas
Ignition Piezo Ignition
Indicator Flame Indicator
Safety Valve Flame Failure safety valve for Camp

Consumption
LP Gas 90g/24h
electric 0.7kw/24h

[LR1953]

Thanks John, Probably a lost cause then........ Colin

Colin, the price of Kero would horrify you even if you did find a small kero fridge in working condition, plus they are astonishingly heavy. Better off to find an Electrolux caravan fridge - built-in, under-bench style, from a 70's/80's era caravan. They usually have 240V power option as well, so you can cool it down before you leave home and switch to gas later. Electrolux also made small free-standing LPG fridges, about the size of a large bar-fridge.

Cheers, Rob S

[gromit]

Colin, the price of Kero would horrify you even if you did find a small kero fridge in working condition, plus they are astonishingly heavy. Better off to find an Electrolux caravan fridge - built-in, under-bench style, from a 70's/80's era caravan. They usually have 240V power option as well, so you can cool it down before you leave home and switch to gas later. Electrolux also made small free-standing LPG fridges, about the size of a large bar-fridge.

Cheers, Rob S

Rob,
It's more to make it 'perod' correct than actually use.
I have a small Engel but this vehicle isn't used for long trips.

Thanks,

Colin

[LR1953]

Hello again Colin, if it's just "the look" you're after, I'd suggest advertising in the "Wanted" section of rural newspapers in Gippsland - suggest areas that didn't get mains power until 1960's. When the power came through farmers often bought an electric fridge and put the old kero item in the shed.
To save weight and space in the vehicle, I'd suggest separating the cabinet from the refrigeration unit and just install the cabinet. Typically the Electrolux refrigeration part was imported and the cabinet/burner/kero tank made locally. Hence all the different brands (eg "MasterKold", "Silent Knight" were all based on an Electrolux refrigeration unit made in Sweden.
Cheers Rob S

[gromit]

Hello again Colin, if it's just "the look" you're after, I'd suggest advertising in the "Wanted" section of rural newspapers in Gippsland - suggest areas that didn't get mains power until 1960's. When the power came through farmers often bought an electric fridge and put the old kero item in the shed.
To save weight and space in the vehicle, I'd suggest separating the cabinet from the refrigeration unit and just install the cabinet. Typically the Electrolux refrigeration part was imported and the cabinet/burner/kero tank made locally. Hence all the different brands (eg "MasterKold", "Silent Knight" were all based on an Electrolux refrigeration unit made in Sweden.
Cheers Rob S

Thanks Rob,

I lost touch with the gentleman i purchased the Series I from and always wondered if he removed parts from it. There was also a tinny, outboard motor and fuel tanks that went on the roofrack....
I've put an advert on Gumtree but may take up your advice......it's worth a shot.


Colin

[jillr]

Last week's "The Land" had a couple of kero fridges going in one of their clearing sales. These sorts of items frequently turn up in farm clearing sales.

[gromit]

Last week's "The Land" had a couple of kero fridges going in one of their clearing sales. These sorts of items frequently turn up in farm clearing sales.

Thanks, the problem is finding a small one but another avenue to follow up.

Colin

[Aaron IIA]

I wouldn't consider kerosene expensive. $2.00 per litre around here.

Aaron

[gromit]

No luck finding a kero fridge so far.....I thought it was a long-shot.

Time to change the coolant and I thought I'd have a go at sorting out the timing, it's been down on power for a while and often backfires when turning off.

Checked plugs and points first. Plugs looked OK, it does run a bit rich because in 2008 when we went to Cooma my father-in-law was paranoid that we'd burn out exhaust valves.

Took the cover plate off the back of the motor so I could see the timing marks. I've never removed this before so ended up degreasing it and making a couple of gaskets. It seemed to swing the wrong way and covered the pointer so I turned it 180 degrees so when you swing it open you can see the pointer clearly.
Set the pointer on 10degrees BTDC on the flywheel then using a thin piece of plastic between the points rotated the distributor until it just released the plastic.
Then went indoors and got the young bloke out to help.... He pulled gently on the plastic between the points and I turned the motor gently, stopped as soon as the plastic was released, seems to be about 8degrees BTDC now.

Starts & runs OK (but it always did) so I need to take it for a test run later. I did try and use a strobe to check the timing, problem is my strobe light is older than me and I'd have to check at night because it isn't that bright (like me sometimes).

Just remembered, I must check that the vacuum advance/retard is working.



Colin

[grey_ghost]

What’s the blue car on club plates with the love heart? A Corolla?

[gromit]

What’s the blue car on club plates with the love heart? A Corolla?

Yes, a KE30.
Aidan is running a Subaru Liberty as his daily driver and decided he also needs a weekend toy !

Colin

[Landy Smurf]

156706
156707
This is a small one that would be out of a van. It does nt have the working parts but is an original kerosene one if that's what you are after.

[gromit]

This is a small one that would be out of a van. It does nt have the working parts but is an original kerosene one if that's what you are after.

Could you take a picture of the back. My Series I has a small door to light the fridge, just wondering if it lines up.
A few overall dimensions would help.

Looks promising.....

Thanks,

Colin

[Landy Smurf]

Next Time I am down that way I will do so.

Could you take a picture of the back. My Series I has a small door to light the fridge, just wondering if it lines up.
A few overall dimensions would help.

Looks promising.....

Thanks,

Colin

[gromit]

I'm making a handle for a Shelley jack I picked up at a Trash & Treasure market so I thought I'd check out the jack handle on the Series I.

Now I've owned the Series I since 2007 and know that it has a King Dick jack but never really looked at the handle. It's mounted in Terry clips behind the seats and when examined it I found that the socket on the end is forged onto the end of the solid bar !

I can make one down the local woodwork club I just need an idea what it looks like.

There is one at the end of this thread I started years back Land Rover jacks (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-land-rovers/227380-land-rover-jacks.html)
It looks like it's tapered along the whole length, I was going to turn up something more fancy with just the tapered section in the middle.
Or I could buy one......Jack Handle - Wooden (FF007211) for Land Rover Series IIA/III (https://www.famousfour.co.uk/new_parts/ff_part?part=25136)

Anyone have an original, does it look like the one from Famous Four ??


Colin

[1950landy]

I made up the handle for my Shelley LJ25 Jack using a early RR jack handle. I welded the two sections of the handle together & modified the end that fits into the jack. I bought the wooden handle the UK. I will get you a photo tomorrow & the length .

[1950landy]

158207158208158209
Found photo of the Jack & handle I made from the RR handle. Also photo of my complete tool kit that has taken many years to find. I will measure the length of the handle tomorrow.
Depending on which Shelley jack you have what the jack end of the handle looks like ,mine has a spade shape.

[gromit]

158207158208158209
Found photo of the Jack & handle I made from the RR handle. Also photo of my complete tool kit that has taken many years to find. I will measure the length of the handle tomorrow.
Depending on which Shelley jack you have what the jack end of the handle looks like ,mine has a spade shape.

The Shelley jack has a square socket 3/4" across flats.
The steel section will be straightforward it was the wooden T-handle I need to make, yours looks like the one from Famous Four.

Thanks,

Colin

[1950landy]

I have bought a Shelley jack from a later Series that had the Sq at one time from a guy in Bathurst , I pasted it on to a mate who had a later S1. I can remember a few years back I bought 4 Shelley LJ25 jacks at Toowoomba Swap & none came with handles, have passed them on to other owners. The LJ25 is correct for 1949 / 50 .

Yours should be much easer to make 158223 I had about 15 of the RR jack handles , am not sure if I have any left, if I do you can have a set for free, I will check it will save you a lot of time making the end the wooden handle fits into.

[gromit]

Thanks, I was just going to weld a piece of thick wall tube on some 5/8" rod and a short piece of 3/4 square on t'other end. Not going to bother with the taper in the socket for the wooden handle.
Hopefully I never have to use it anyway ....

Colin

[1950landy]

158226 158227 158228
This is what I have which is a copy of an original LJ 25 handle . every thing should be the same on yours except the end that fits into the jack. Not sure if the longer wheel base had a longer handle though to reach under the centre of the spring pad.

[gromit]

158226 158227 158228
This is what I have which is a copy of an original LJ 25 handle . every thing should be the same on yours except the end that fits into the jack. Not sure if the longer wheel base had a longer handle though to reach under the centre of the spring pad.

The forged eye on mine is different and the rod is round not square.
Might have been supplied with the King Dick jack so different supplier, different handle ? Also may have been changed at some point over the years because the flat on the end has been filed or ground at some point.

How about this ....... a website devoted to classic British car jacks ! Vehicle Jack Index (http://www.classic-british-car-jacks.uk/vehicle_jack_index.htm)
King Dick is not mentioned for Land Rover so maybe it was changed at some point but it does mention that LR would have sourced various jacks depending on price or availability at the time.

A few names from the past on there, Harvey Frost were based in a town in the UK I lived in as a young bloke (long time ago....), also made cranes for wrecking trucks.
Ernest Lake plus Lake & Elliot were in a town I was living in 22 years ago before heading to Australia.

Colin

[1950landy]

As I said not sure if they changed the handle on the later S1's . There is a good couple of Shelley Jack web sites with lots of photo's , descriptions & year listings.

[gromit]

Turned up a wooden handle last night, just need to varnish it and install in the Series I. Did this go in the toolbox or were there Terry clips behind the seats for it ??

Next I need to get some steel and make a handle for the Shelley ......


Colin

[JDNSW]

I think it went behind the seat.

[philip yabsley]

interesting story and pics. very nice

[gromit]

Decided to check out the Series I and clean it today. It's been sitting for 6-9 months, I charge the battery occasionally.

It has twin Facet pumps and a Holden carby that was fitted years ago, I have a period correct carby that I must look at fitting one day..... Choke out, ignition on, pump starts clicking away. When the tone changes press the accelerator a couple of times and press the starter and she fires up immediately.
Petrol must be a bit stale and as mentioned it's been sitting for months but every time it starts up 'on the button'.

Washed & dried, checked fluids but when driving back to the shed I found the tickover was a bit high. After some investigation I found a spring was missing from the arm on the carby butterfly. Found & modified a spring, fitted and the revs now drop down when the accelerator is released.

Back in the shed ready for a run another day.


Colin

[Homestar]

When are we going to check the operation of the Welder? You know you want to - I’ll bring a fire extinguisher... 😇

[gromit]

When are we going to check the operation of the Welder? You know you want to - I’ll bring a fire extinguisher... 😇

I was thinking of disconnecting the governor today but then thought that I'd probably need it to test the welder.

Once I clear some of the project backlog I'll have to give it a try.


Colin

[whitehillbilly64]

Looking good.
What is the ID of jack handle please.
Thanks.

whitehillbilly

[gromit]

Looking good.
What is the ID of jack handle please.
Thanks.

whitehillbilly

I'll have a look when I'm next down the back shed, pouring with rain so far today.

I made one for another jack I found at a Trash & Treasure market, a short section of thickwall pipe and bored a taper so that the handle wedges in place. The one I have is a King Dick with, I assume, the original handle.

Did you ever get back to the chap with the Kero Fridge ? I needed dimensions to see if it would fit into the Series I.

Colin

[whitehillbilly64]

Thanks.
'Did you ever get back to the chap with the Kero Fridge' ????
Don't think that was me Colin.

whitehillbilly.

[gromit]

Thanks.
'Did you ever get back to the chap with the Kero Fridge' ????
Don't think that was me Colin.

whitehillbilly.



Someone replied to my 'Kero fridge wanted' ages ago and sent a picture of one they knew of, I asked for dimensions. Checked back a few posts and it was Landy Smurf.

ID of jack handle is 24.4mm to 27.3mm. I just turned a handle to suit with a raised tapered section in the middle.


Colin

[gromit]

Decided to take the Series I to work on Thursday.
Traffic is a bit quieter as Christmas approaches and I tend to hold the traffic up and some people get a bit upset as from their driving style they must already be late for work ?!

Ignition on, wait for the Facet pumps to slow down and the carby bowl fills, fired first time as always.
It crossed my mind that the last time I added fuel may have been Cooma in 2018 so I drained about 2 gallons from the rear tank and added fresh petrol. The old fuel wasn't that bad but it didn't smell like fresh petrol.

All washed, running OK but I'll check tyre pressures, oil levels etc tomorrow night. I'll also take it for a run locally.

Power had been down for some time so I need to organise a head gasket and lift the head at some point in the future. I also, still, need to fire the welder up and see if it works.

SWMBO is away for 10 days after Christmas at the Scout Jamboree, minor problem is that I have the youngest daughter and two older 'boys' to look after. So shopping, cooking & washing may slow work on Land Rovers.

Anyway, off to work tomorrow in Wallit my Series III with C240 Isuzu motor, this does keep up with the traffic.....


Colin

[gromit]

Well, made it into work.
Cut up by 3 tradies in utes, one was still partly in my lane as he overtook.

I'm guessing that the majority of drivers don't understand that a 'H' plate on a vehicle means it's old and therefore may be slower than modern traffic. Despite the state of my Series I they don't understand why I am slowing them down so with this in mind they drive closer & closer in an attempt to push me along !
Do you think a "This may be slow but it's in front of you" sticker might help [smilebigeye]

Did get a friendly wave from an older truck driver and an odd look from two policemen. My log book was filled in before leaving home so I had nothing to worry about.



Colin

[grey_ghost]

Well, made it into work.
Cut up by 3 tradies in utes, one was still partly in my lane as he overtook.

I'm guessing that the majority of drivers don't understand that a 'H' plate on a vehicle means it's old and therefore may be slower than modern traffic. Despite the state of my Series I they don't understand why I am slowing them down so with this in mind they drive closer & closer in an attempt to push me along !
Do you think a "This may be slow but it's in front of you" sticker might help [smilebigeye]

Did get a friendly wave from an older truck driver and an odd look from two policemen. My log book was filled in before leaving home so I had nothing to worry about.



Colin

Tradies driving dual cab utes - the modern equivalent of Nazi’s I rekon… They drive like they own the road, especially the bit that you are occupying… Flogs!

[gromit]

It's probably been close to a year since I last started the Series I.
I do charge the battery every 3-4 months (along with several other Land Rovers).

Needed to get to something in the back of the shed today so had to move it out.
It has Facet fuel pumps and a Holden carby. Ignition ON, lots of ticking as the pump tops up the carby bowl, when the ticking slows down press the accelerator a few times, pull out the choke and she started first time.

Always surprises me with stale petrol and after standing so long there is never a problem starting.
Took it for a drive up & down the garden, made sure it got up to running temperature then parked it back in the shed.

Need to flush brake fluid & coolant soon then track down the power loss......


Colin

[1950landy]

It's probably been close to a year since I last started the Series I.
I do charge the battery every 3-4 months (along with several other Land Rovers).

Needed to get to something in the back of the shed today so had to move it out.
It has Facet fuel pumps and a Holden carby. Ignition ON, lots of ticking as the pump tops up the carby bowl, when the ticking slows down press the accelerator a few times, pull out the choke and she started first time.

Always surprises me with stale petrol and after standing so long there is never a problem starting.
Took it for a drive up & down the garden, made sure it got up to running temperature then parked it back in the shed.

Need to flush brake fluid & coolant soon then track down the power loss......


Colin
My 80" is the same, I started it couple of weeks ago after sitting in hibernation for a year. I keep it on a solar charger to keep battery charger & in good condition, got 14 years out of the last battery, which I replaced last year. Turned on key the SU pumped up the stail fuel, pulled out the choke & couple of pumps on accelerator & one & a half revolutions of the motor & she started. I was surprised the clutch disengaged so could select 1st gear, this usually doesn't happen. That reminds me I need to do the same with my 80".

[gromit]

Brake flush & coolant change was done at Christmas.

Down on power but it doesn't get used much and also doesn't get much maintenance. VRS set ordered from the Series I Club some time back so time to investigate.

Checked exhaust tappets, two were 10thou rather than 12thou so they were adjusted.
Cork gasket fell apart so dug out a replacement.
Sparkplugs OK, points checked & gapped.
Checked the timing which was a bit out. Used a timing light whereas in the past I'd done it with thin plastic in the points and manual turning of the engine until the plastic is released.
Found a split in the vacuum tube to the distributor.
Checked compression.....expecting the worst (that's why I got the VRS set !).
All cylinders were around 110psi.

Maybe the timing & split in the vacuum hose were the main issues ?

Time for a test drive.


Colin

[gromit]

Decided to get the Series I out to clean it yesterday.

As usual, choke out, ignition on and the Facet starts ticking quite loudly. Wait till the tone of the Facet changes (carby full), a couple of pumps on the accelerator and it started first time.

Checked tyre pressures and they were very low, the old crossplies don't tend to give the game away so good thing I checked.

Washed and left out in the sun to dry. Then decided to wash Wallit.


Colin

[gromit]

Nearly a year since I last did anything on the Series I !
I did start and run it a few weeks ago and it wasn't running that well so decided today to remove & clean the carby.

A previous owner had fitted it with a carby from a Holden, a few home-made modifications to get it to work on the Series I along with an adjustable main jet.
There's a blanking plug inside and it has seen better days but got me to Cooma for the 60th and until recently it was running OK.

Removed the carby, stripped & ultrasonically cleaned.
Re-assembled using the original gaskets but will buy another gasket set.
I had a lot of problems early on with Fuelmiser repair kits. The accelerator pump seals kept splitting, problem solved when I got hold of a leather seal.

I'll see how it runs tomorrow, then it's a decision whether to persevere with this carby, try to get another Holden carby or look for an original carby and air cleaner !

If anyone knows their Holden carbys maybe they can tell me what it was from.
1 1/32", 23-3001 E

Colin

[B.S.F.]

There are some spec. numbers listed here. Listing of Stromberg Carby Codes HOLDEN / FORD - Holden General Discussion - Fastlane (https://www.fastlane.com.au/forum/postst15085_Listing-of-Stromberg-Carby-Codes-HOLDEN--FORD.aspx)
.W.

[gromit]

There are some spec. numbers listed here. Listing of Stromberg Carby Codes HOLDEN / FORD - Holden General Discussion - Fastlane (https://www.fastlane.com.au/forum/postst15085_Listing-of-Stromberg-Carby-Codes-HOLDEN--FORD.aspx)
.W.

Many thanks,

Seems it's from a EK-EJ Auto.
Elsewhere I found reference to Grey Motor.

An original Solex carby & air cleaner would be a better bet I guess but the Holden carby had worked OK.
It's been down on power for some time but a few other things to check.

It did start & seemed to run better after the ultrasonic clean.
I remember before the 60th the Father-in-law richened the mixture as he didn't want burnt out exhaust valves. Need to check the plugs after a run.

Colin



Colin

[B.S.F.]

I've been using an unregistered L/R with 179 Holden engine around the place for close to 30 years without problems.
A visual difference between early carbs is the length of the vent tube. I've never had any reason to take mine apart
and therefore don't know anything about them. I also like to keep spares.
.W.

[V8Ian]

EK & EJ were both fitted with the "grey" (138) sideplate engine and both available with the GM Hydromatic transmission.

[gromit]

EK & EJ were both fitted with the "grey" (138) sideplate engine and both available with the GM Hydromatic transmission.

Thanks,
Being a 'new Australian' since '97 I don't know much about Holden models.....

Colin