Removal of Ignition Key Barrel on Puma

[pbroz]

I've got a worn barrel that is making it very difficult for the wife to start the vehicle, being a good husband I said I would get onto it first thing Saturday morning... been a couple of hours and I'm not having much fun. :(

Has anyone had any experience of removing the Ignition Key Barrel on a Puma? I can see the two shear pins which I've tried moving with a small cold chiesel without luck (maybe I need to try harder). Space is a real issue... advice or photo's...

[mike_ie]

Hey mate,

I haven't seen the puma ignition setup myself, but I've changed a few ignition barrels, including the one on my 300tdi with a similar shear pin setup. If you are buying a new ignition barrel, it'll come with a set of replacement shear pins, so, depending on the situation, I've either drilled the heads off the shear bolts entirely, and pulled the ignition out, or drilled a hole in the bolt head and hammered in a close fitting allen key (the drilled hole will still grip the allen key), and unscrewed the bolts that way. a 4mm hole and a bolt remover from any hardware store will also do the trick :)

A few articles thrown back by google tells me that the ignition setup for the puma, TD5 and tdi are the same, so the above methods should work without a problem.

[justinc]

Just persist with the tiny cold chisel, once they come loose even a little you can rotate them with your finger tip. they are harder to reach than the Td5/Tdi models. Don't fit the new shear bolts, use M8 socket head cap screws. Take the new lock barrel into a locksmith to code your old key to it, or else you will have 2 keys....:mad:

It will actually be a mixture of lock barrel and ignition switch, have replaced heaps:(. Along with wiper park switches, too.


JC

[Tote]

Thought I'd add my 2c here, having just done the ignition barrel removal and replaced the switch. In my case the symptoms were that the ignition wouldn't turn out of the lock position to start the vehicle. It started about 6 months ago doing it very occasionally and last week when we were out at the farm it took us 45 minutes of wiggling the key and swearing to get it to start. Following that I've had a very careful week of not turning it off unnecessarily and if I do only turning it enough to cut the engine..

I ordered a replacement lock barrel and switch from KLR - I've read some speculation that the Lucas lock is OEM, if it is it's not for a puma, the puma unit is a bit different.

To remove the ignition barrel the two security screws need to come off. I found the best way was to put a cut in the alloy housing and then attack it with a small cold chisel to remove the shrouding. then it was a relatively simple matter to tap a notch in the side of the bolt head and drive the screw out. I removed the steering wheel, indicator and wiper switch assembly and the steering wheel to make life easier. The cluster can be lifted up on top of the dash and left connected.

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The bolt removed

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With the clamp removed showing the cold chisel marks on the bolt head

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This is how the wiring goes, the fourth wire not pictured is black

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The finished product and the tools used.

In my case I removed the switch from the new barrel and swapped it over, that was the culprit and the ignition barrel is OK, that way I get to keep my existing key which is a win. I know if I'd had ordered the switch alone it would have been OK and the barrel would have needed replacement.......


Regards,
Tote