Our 88 project

[Defender Mike]

Hi all,

Well we made a start on the 88 still unamed nothing has come up that sticks yet. The wheels are off only 1 stud unscrewed, brakes hubs off fairly easy, master cylinder out looks like it will be ok apears to have been resleeved previously. The line to the resiviour broke on removal. We then pulled of the RH wing fairly easy broke a couple of bolts on the grill panel but the main ones all came out easy. Both doors and hood off and the hard top and windcreen. There is quite a bit of rust under the windscreen rubber seal and I am wondering how to go about fixing that. It has what looks like a sail track the rubber slides into which may be difficult to replicate. The water pump which was U/S was removed along with all the thermostat housing etc . Thermostat is U/S and I will need a new one from ????. Hope to get the rest of the body off this week end. Obviously my tools (spanners) arrived still waiting on sockets also the nut bolt kit from UK arrived. I have recieved quotes for most parts and they are reasonable and was relieved to find a spring manufacturer in Perth that knows all about series 1's. Im now looking for a good an engine rebuilder in Perth who can strip inspect and report on what needs to be done and someone to do the same with the gearbox. :)

Mike

[Bundy]

Pretty sure Dale Radford in the UK makes the bulkhead repair pieces. I may be easier to get on sent over.

[russellrovers]

[QUOTE=Defender Mike;1776701]Hi all,

Well we made a start on the 88 still unamed nothing has come up that sticks yet. The wheels are off only 1 stud unscrewed, brakes hubs off fairly easy, master cylinder out looks like it will be ok apears to have been resleeved previously. The line to the resiviour broke on removal. We then pulled of the RH wing fairly easy broke a couple of bolts on the grill panel but the main ones all came out easy. Both doors and hood off and the hard top and windcreen. There is quite a bit of rust under the windscreen rubber seal and I am wondering how to go about fixing that. It has what looks like a sail track the rubber slides into which may be difficult to replicate. The water pump which was U/S was removed along with all the thermostat housing etc . Thermostat is U/S and I will need a new one from ????. Hope to get the rest of the body off this week end. Obviously my tools (spanners) arrived still waiting on sockets also the nut bolt kit from UK arrived. I have recieved quotes for most parts and they are reasonable and was relieved to find a spring manufacturer in Perth that knows all about series 1's. Im now looking for a good an engine rebuilder in Perth who can strip inspect and report on what needs to be done and someone to do the same with the gearbox. :)

hi i have a spare cast iron one

[Landy Smurf]

i am sure you can get a replacement seal, i have seen them some where before i just cant remember where

[andy_d110]

Im now looking for a good an engine rebuilder in Perth who can strip inspect and report on what needs to be done and someone to do the same with the gearbox. :)

Mike

It's coming along nicely there Mike!

They come apart quickly and easily, it's the putting back together that takes more time and money than you would expect :(

For my previous Land Rover engines I have used Mettam Automotive Machining in Greenwood. My mate has just had his 2 Litre in his 86" completely rebuilt and assembled by him, I think we will be installing it next week sometime.

Can't recommend Bruce Mettam highly enough, he is a real old school bloke and knows the ins and outs of side valve pre war technology, where as a younger more modern engine builder would likely miss certain things.

Mettam Automotive Machining
22 Canham Way Greenwood WA 6024
(08) 9342 3011

I did get your MSG about the WA catch up, maybe we can bring the 86" along for you to inspect...


Cheers,
Andy

[Defender Mike]

[QUOTE=Defender Mike;1776701]Hi all,

Well we made a start on the 88 still unamed nothing has come up that sticks yet. The wheels are off only 1 stud unscrewed, brakes hubs off fairly easy, master cylinder out looks like it will be ok apears to have been resleeved previously. The line to the resiviour broke on removal. We then pulled of the RH wing fairly easy broke a couple of bolts on the grill panel but the main ones all came out easy. Both doors and hood off and the hard top and windcreen. There is quite a bit of rust under the windscreen rubber seal and I am wondering how to go about fixing that. It has what looks like a sail track the rubber slides into which may be difficult to replicate. The water pump which was U/S was removed along with all the thermostat housing etc . Thermostat is U/S and I will need a new one from ????. Hope to get the rest of the body off this week end. Obviously my tools (spanners) arrived still waiting on sockets also the nut bolt kit from UK arrived. I have recieved quotes for most parts and they are reasonable and was relieved to find a spring manufacturer in Perth that knows all about series 1's. Im now looking for a good an engine rebuilder in Perth who can strip inspect and report on what needs to be done and someone to do the same with the gearbox. :)

hi i have a spare cast iron one

Hi Russel the housing is good just the thermostat itself needs replaceing.

[Defender Mike]

i am sure you can get a replacement seal, i have seen them some where before i just cant remember where


Big Jim has the seals gaskets and the little copper pipe. he doesnt have a brass thermostat though.

[Defender Mike]

It's coming along nicely there Mike!

They come apart quickly and easily, it's the putting back together that takes more time and money than you would expect :(

For my previous Land Rover engines I have used Mettam Automotive Machining in Greenwood. My mate has just had his 2 Litre in his 86" completely rebuilt and assembled by him, I think we will be installing it next week sometime.

Can't recommend Bruce Mettam highly enough, he is a real old school bloke and knows the ins and outs of side valve pre war technology, where as a younger more modern engine builder would likely miss certain things.

Mettam Automotive Machining
22 Canham Way Greenwood WA 6024
(08) 9342 3011

I did get your MSG about the WA catch up, maybe we can bring the 86" along for you to inspect...


Cheers,
Andy

Thanks Andy thats not far from my work ill try and drop by this arvo for a chat.

[Defender Mike]

Found them i suppose they ship them in a tube anyone used these?

[Defender Mike]

A bit more done yesterday. Front grill panel with radiator removed,left wing ,Floor and seat panel all removed. A good clean up with some Kenco degreaser and the gurni. I can see all the chassis now and thereis no rust just a bit of surface stuff. This means i can just clean it up and paint no need to blast and I can leave the rear diff and springs in place. The springs are fairley new 11 leaf jobs and not swelled. Some tricky bolts to remove yesterday and some had to be cut. Now just the tub to come off and the Bulkhead can be removed.

[klonk]

Have you found any treasures hiding anywhere? I found a genuine trafficator switch that mounts on the windscreen bracket in the 80'' in klonks toolbox.

Cheers Steve

[Defender Mike]

A few goodies workshop & owners manual under seat. Nuts bolts circlips spare hoses. Crank handle but no jack or genuine wheel brace.
Mike

[Defender Mike]

Some pics of our 88 a few years back it has had a few changes. There is a series 2 photo in there as well.:)

[Defender Mike]

53071

Bulkhead freed from chassis and ready to go to panel shop. I have a engine reconditioner just up the road who will strip and check the engine and a panel beater who will do the painting.

[Defender Mike]

53072 hope to get the motor and box out this weekend.

[Landy Smurf]

you are quite lucky you have people nearby who can do the work. I am still looking for someone to do my engine 2 years later. anyway i am looking forward to seeing your project come together.

[Defender Mike]

53094Bonet now removed of paint, was a bit easier than anticipated but still took several hours.

[klonk]

How did the parts go in the mollassis, It does a good job but you need to be abit patient for the real bad bits.

Bonnet looks good, I know where there is another one to do now your in practise.

Keep plodding, dont rush and enjoy the build, it is addictive though.

[Defender Mike]

How did the parts go in the mollassis, It does a good job but you need to be abit patient for the real bad bits.

Bonnet looks good, I know where there is another one to do now your in practise.

Keep plodding, dont rush and enjoy the build, it is addictive though.
Mollassis is the best stuff since sliced bread. because I work away when i come back the work is done. All the bolts came up like new and the little curved panel above the gearbox on the bulkhead came out shiny. I am tempted to build a big dip pond and stick the whole chassis in. I line dams for a living so its an easy task and I could pass it on to others when I am finished . dipping the whole chassis would get rid of rust on the inside of the box as well.
thinking about getting all the bolts nuts nickel plated. I spoke with Ferace auto rust this morning and will drop the bulkhead over to get repaired when I get back from work in a couple of weeks. Didnt get the engine out will buy a crane from Supa cheap first. Having fun and its moving along but wish I could do something every day working away is holding things up a bit.:)

Mike

[Defender Mike]

Guard and bonnet to paint shop bulkhead to sandblasters. Nice shiny guard afterpaint stripping and wire brushing then rubbed back with wet and dry. A bit of bog found in the out will be removed and reworked.

[andy_d110]

Mollassis is the best stuff since sliced bread. because I work away when i come back the work is done. All the bolts came up like new and the little curved panel above the gearbox on the bulkhead came out shiny. I am tempted to build a big dip pond and stick the whole chassis in. I line dams for a living so its an easy task and I could pass it on to others when I am finished . dipping the whole chassis would get rid of rust on the inside of the box as well.
thinking about getting all the bolts nuts nickel plated. I spoke with Ferace auto rust this morning and will drop the bulkhead over to get repaired when I get back from work in a couple of weeks. Didnt get the engine out will buy a crane from Supa cheap first. Having fun and its moving along but wish I could do something every day working away is holding things up a bit.:)

Mike


I have also thought of dipping a whole chassis in molasses! Instead of digging a hole i was thinking of forming up a pond with ply and pine and then line it with plastic... I have a tub of goodies that are almost ready to go, it smells a lot nicer than normal rust converter.

How did you go with Bruce Mettam for the Engine? My mate has just refitted his engine to his 86" and he is super happy with it. He would be happy to show it off if you wanted to see the final product?

You can get a complete bolt set from LR Fasteners, I haven't bought a set yet, but I will be for the 48 when it gets to the front of the queue...

Land Rover Body Fastener Kits, Spares, Land Rover Parts (http://www.landrover-parts.net/)

Andy.

[Landy Smurf]

it would be good to dip the whole chassis. I think i would want to probably do a few chassis while i was going. How does the molasses go against paint?

[Defender Mike]

Regarding chassis dipping I can make a free standing tub out of 2mm dam liner. I fold and weld the corners may need. May need a bit of supporting the centre. This would sit on any flat surface. How deep would it need to be to cover the chassis completely and have 100 freeboard?

[Defender Mike]

I would give the paint a hit with stripper or wire brush on the 7 inch grinder to loosen it up. Usually where the paint remains there isn't any rust anyway.

[Defender Mike]

53141 both guards now in for paint . That's hard works stripping paint. I'm back in Melbourne for s couple of weeks so will try and get some bits while over this way. When I get back tub off engine and gearbox out.

[Landy Smurf]

i hate taking paint off, so slow

[klonk]

You could reward your hard work removing the paint by polishing the bare aluminium and having a nice bright and shiney landy.;)

You have done well to find a panelbeater that wants to work on aluminium panels.

During the weekend I will measure klonks chassis depth and let you know. the dam liner is a good idea but will have to be aware of the sharp corners that may cause leaks. The mollassis stinks for sometime and covers a big area when it escapes, also it may need quite abit of support around the sides and probably hold 250 ltrs

[Defender Mike]

You could reward your hard work removing the paint by polishing the bare aluminium and having a nice bright and shiney landy.;)

You have done well to find a panelbeater that wants to work on aluminium panels.

During the weekend I will measure klonks chassis depth and let you know. the dam liner is a good idea but will have to be aware of the sharp corners that may cause leaks. The mollassis stinks for sometime and covers a big area when it escapes, also it may need quite abit of support around the sides and probably hold 250 ltrs

The thought crossed my mind polished aluminium with some nose art like a Mustang P51 D. With the 2mm liner you would only need a bit of support in the centre up to 300 mm deep over that would require a frame or tendons across to hold it together . Its very tough stuff and a bit of geotextile in the bottom will protect it. I was thinking of getting a 1000 Litre pod to pump the mixture back into when finished. It could be recycled and used by some one else then if required it doesnt seem to go off with age. I will go and take some pics of a few lining tubs i have laying around the job here in Geelong. I use them to catch any fuel spills when working on potable water storage systems.
Mike

[JayBoRover]

The thought crossed my mind polished aluminium with some nose art like a Mustang P51 D. With the 2mm liner you would only need a bit of support in the centre up to 300 mm deep over that would require a frame or tendons across to hold it together . Its very tough stuff and a bit of geotextile in the bottom will protect it. I was thinking of getting a 1000 Litre pod to pump the mixture back into when finished. It could be recycled and used by some one else then if required it doesnt seem to go off with age. I will go and take some pics of a few lining tubs i have laying around the job here in Geelong. I use them to catch any fuel spills when working on potable water storage systems.
Mike
I may well be able to donate a 1000lt bulky bin with cage to the project. I think I'll have one coming free in a few months from a project I'm working on. Might be ideal for collecting the mixture for re-use.

[Defender Mike]

Hi john
I hope to have mine registered in a few months. Trying to get her up and going for the. 65 th WA anniversary on the 23 June. Stripping the rest of the gear off the chassis next break and will try and get the chassis soaking over Christmas . I was looking at heading to the uk for a week or two in January to buy all my bits but everyone tells me it will be too cold. I will pick those tanks up next break as well.
Mike


Mike

[klonk]

Hi Mike

Measured klonks chassis (80'') and it is 450mm to the highest point sitting on the floor 1.5 wide and 3.2 long. That means your tub would have to be about 600 high, and would need 2500 ltrs to fill it :eek: and bigger for the 86 & 88s. Dont know what 205 ltrs of mollasis would cost. Our horse place charges $2 per ltr if you have your own container, so a wholesaler might do it for $1-$1.50 in bulk.

Cheers Steve

[JayBoRover]

Hi Mike

Measured klonks chassis (80'') and it is 450mm to the highest point sitting on the floor 1.5 wide and 3.2 long. That means your tub would have to be about 600 high, and would need 2500 ltrs to fill it :eek: and bigger for the 86 & 88s. Dont know what 205 ltrs of mollasis would cost. Our horse place charges $2 per ltr if you have your own container, so a wholesaler might do it for $1-$1.50 in bulk.

Cheers Steve
Hmmm. A big job getting bigger! I might be able to stretch to donating two 1000lt bulky bins (if I can keep others from pouncing on them) and I know where there's a few for sale just up the road too. I could also probably donate a 205lt drum if required for collecting bulk molasses - I have a few lying around.

I don't think either of my S1 chassis' actually need dunking though. The 80" is a "minta" and the 86" isn't going to be torn down to chassis as it's pretty good and I like the patina of it "as is" - just needs to get running for me to enjoy or sell on.

Cheers
John B

[Landy Smurf]

we get 200L for about $160 in a drum. I just did a few litres in a 20L bucket today and am giving the chassis dipping some thought and will see after smaller trials.
I was thinking what would be better digging a hole or making a crate then put some lining in.

[Defender Mike]

Hi Mike

Measured klonks chassis (80'') and it is 450mm to the highest point sitting on the floor 1.5 wide and 3.2 long. That means your tub would have to be about 600 high, and would need 2500 ltrs to fill it :eek: and bigger for the 86 & 88s. Dont know what 205 ltrs of mollasis would cost. Our horse place charges $2 per ltr if you have your own container, so a wholesaler might do it for $1-$1.50 in bulk.

Cheers Steve

I can build a tank to fit around the chassis andnot fill the void in the center that will reduce the amont of liquer required considerably and give it some added strength as well. 200litre drums are available from elders or one of those type outfits often seen near a water point on cattle properties. helps calm the wild clean skins and keep them around for muster.:) Its cure all this stuff might start taking a bit myself LOL

[wrinklearthur]

I can build a tank to fit around the chassis andnot fill the void in the center that will reduce the amont of liquer required considerably and give it some added strength as well. 200litre drums are available from elders or one of those type outfits often seen near a water point on cattle properties. helps calm the wild clean skins and keep them around for muster.:) Its cure all this stuff might start taking a bit myself LOL

Fermented?

[klonk]

I did klonks diff housings, springs and other parts in a trench dug in the ground and lined with builders plastic, it was Chazza's idea, kept it covered with a tarp to stop unwanted things falling in. After awhile there was lots of froth and mould growing on the top, it was a bit grose reaching in to retreive parts from the soup. If you dont wear gloves your arm turns golden brown and you can give up on any thoughts of romance for at least 3 days untill the smell wears off. Remember though you should remove the parts for a wire brush every 3 days and it takes about 4 scrubs to clean them properly.;)
It does seem to ferment after awhile. Sorry didnt get any photos of the froth in action.

Cheers Steve

[Landy Smurf]

how much is the builders plastic? because this is the way i was thinking. it just means we will need to make sure the cattle are in a different paddock

[wrinklearthur]

how much is the builders plastic? because this is the way i was thinking. it just means we will need to make sure the cattle are in a different paddock

eBay Item number: 281022867818 .
.

[Landy Smurf]

that would be a good price between a few people. how many square metres does a chassis?

[Defender Mike]

Just poped in to the panel beaters both guards and bonnet now straight and in undercoat but the bulkhead has been left at the sand blasters. Thats now sorted and should get the bits home this weekend.

[Landy Smurf]

do you have before and after photos of the guards and bonnet?

[andy_d110]

Just poped in to the panel beaters both guards and bonnet now straight and in undercoat but the bulkhead has been left at the sand blasters. Thats now sorted and should get the bits home this weekend.


Hi Mike,

Who is doing your panel beating for you? I haven't had any luck in finding someone who wants to touch 60 year old Landy panels. How did they repair your parts?

Good to see you making good progress with the beast.

[Defender Mike]

I got a guy just up on Rockingham road "rocky road panels" but wait till i take a realy good look. Thet told me they would doly them but a quicky look on Monday felt more like filler but we shall see when I get back home again this Friday. They are only painted in primer he tigg welded up the cracks around the mirror mount and lower guard support brackets. The bonnet was perfect and right guard was porettygood as well.
Mike:)

[Defender Mike]

It will be next Wed now i had to fly back to Melbourne for a few days.

[Defender Mike]

Picked up the 2 guards and bonnet now dent free and looking good in grey primer. The bulkhead is back from a trip to the blasters and needs abit more work than I thought but its still not too bad. shopde around a few sheet metal guys here in Perth and I am sure i can get the parts from Radfords cheaper even with the freight. I am calling them shortly this evening.

[Defender Mike]

Here is a couple of pics of the rust removed from the bulkhead. I have ordered my top rail & rubber from Radfords and its now on its way. I couldnt get anyone else interested to do a bulk buy never mind. I tried a few companies that specialise in rust removal but they are way too expensive. So i will do it myself. Just need my local sheety to fold up a peice to fit and weld it in. I pulled some long term soaking bits from the mollassis and painted them with cold galv.Including all the water pump attachment whic came up very well after 6 weeks soaking. Slowly but surely moving ahead but Im not getting much time off of late everyone wants there job finished by Christmas. Im taking an extra 2 weeks off in january to get the chassis cleaned up and painted and then its reassemble time.:)
Mike

[Defender Mike]

My top rail and rubber arrived Monday from Radfords only took 2 days to get here by mamoth parcels. photos to come :)