Wind Cheetah Roof Rack Mounting Location

[GlennWA]

I would like some opinions on the best location and way to mount a 2.0m wind cheetah roof rack.

I pick up the vehicle within a couple of weeks but have the roof rack already (which includes some extra mounts :D) so I am looking at getting it prepped and cleaned up for installation.

I have read about roof cracking and a maximum load of 150kg and would like to determine the best mounting position - which may or may not include the additional mounts.

Most pictures I have seen mount the rack with three supports each side at the rear of the roof and spaced so that the safari window is left clear like the top left diagram. The concern I have is that the weight is not on any of the vehicle's pillars.

I can move the rack forward and by my calculations it should go close to aligning with the B and C pillars - but obscure the safari window which SWMBO is not too keen on:eek:.

I could also add the extra mounts as shown on the right hand diagrams.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/534.jpg

My gut feel is that bottom right would be best in that I can put the heavier items at the front of the rack. The load is on the pillars yet still distributing the load over more supports. Also by moving the rack forward there will be more weight distributed to the front axle, taking some load off the rear compared to other arrangements.

SWMBO thinks it is probably overkill and would look out of place:confused: Any opinions?

[malleefowl]

I have mine right up front as is less weight on the Mulgo pop top but is extra good to access via the bonnet chequer plate protection.Stow my table under it too.
Great to easily and quickly access things needed on a daily basis.
Cheers,
Mary

[weeds]

there is plenty of talk about roof's cracking but i'm yet to see one in the flesh

so, i'm guessing the extra mounts gives you five each side like your pics

i have the longer version fitted with non of the mounts over the pillars, there are four mounts each side

my rack is lined up flush with the back of the roof and the mounts spaced equally except for the back passenger mount as i moved it forward one to accommodate my awning

i would go top left but move the rack back so it is flush with the rear of the defender

my previous rack used to have a full length gutter mount which is also supposed to be a no no.........you would believe the weights i used to throw up there

[bicubic]

I've got mine mounted to the back too (2.2m version) but I've tried to make sure the gutter is fully sealed before mounting it. I've noticed my Defender can leak from water entering the cracks in the gutter and the sharp edges of the Wind cheater mounts didn't help this :o . Any weight being thumped about by the delight of outback roads only added to this flex. I've sealed it twice now (and it's remained sealed) :D . I've also had to leave a mount over top windows on either side—I can't see any way around this in using all four mounts. I've added the ladder and the jerry can holder (twin) too.

[tangus89]

I would mount it like the top right as well. makes access from 3 sides possible. and if you want to carry longer things you can slide it up from the back.

[GlennWA]

Thanks for all the input!

So now I see that there are conflicting opinions but the majority say rearwards. Any other opinions out there?

Bicubic - Is it really noticeable having a mount over the side windows? Is it a pain in the bum for passengers and such or is it no real worries?

Cheers

Glenn

[bicubic]

Is it really noticeable having a mount over the side windows? Is it a pain in the bum for passengers and such or is it no real worries?

Glenn

It's not a problem for any rear passengers (they walk behind anyway) but the real concern is the bracket touching the window.

This can happen if the bracket isn't pulled out to it's maximum rail extension as the weld can tip the angle of the bracket back slightly towards the glass. I was nearly going to put the grinder on the weld to level it out (it's the one binding the cross brace to the surround) but then thought I might be able to pull up the difference with the fitting and not risk making the melt thinner. These two (on either side of the glass) were the last ones I tightened up and I did it carefully to keep them off the glass. The bracket wants to pull up against the glass. :eek:

I think the arms and the welds aren't entirely resolved over this point and it's a design weakness. The bracket needs a little reshaping to be safe. I've got rub marks on the roof line from a previous install (I won't say who did it) but I was a lot more cautious when I refitted it and pulled them out further. I actually seated the arms in radiator overflow rubber to protect the roof seal too. The gutters are pretty deep and they still grip well.

I use the rubber adhesive strips from Clark Rubber (choose your own adventure here) to protect my Oz tent from rubbing and for extra grip on the cross bars. It works really well.

P

[GlennWA]

Thanks bicubic for that most informative post:thumbsup:. Great to know the things to watch out for when I install it myself.

Cheers

Glenn