Brakes

[reubsrover]

My brakes are jammed on on all four wheels. :(

The Landy has been off the road for three months whilst having a little work done (see below) and while I had the brake pedal out I decided to do the master cylinder.

Bled the brakes and thought the brake pedal was nice and stiff but when I went to go for a test drive today she stalled. Pulled her out of the shed in low range and found that I probably need to new snails on the rear. The front ones will back off but the brakes are still on, only just able to turn the wheels by hand.

So the only changes I've made are a new master cylinder and a new engine which came with a new vacuum pump (it has an after market brake booster).

Any ideas?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/10/328.jpg

[Blknight.aus]

crack the bleed nipples at the wheels, if the brakes back off the problem is hydraulic if its not its probably shoes related (assuming you still have drum fronts)

Once thats worked out futher diagnostics becomes feasable.

Dont be tempted to break the line at the MC it works for diagnostics but means that you have to add a full bleed to the after work.

[manic]

nice tdi!

New shoes can be a tight fit.. you could try removing the snails completly, along with new springs. Put snails back when pads worn in.

[reubsrover]

nice tdi!

Without the turbo :o

[reubsrover]

Thanks Dave that seemed to fix it. A reasonable amount of fluid came out and the brakes released after cracking only one bleed nipple. Is this caused by the brake booster?

The pedal feels normal again and brakes are working.

[jerryd]

Without the turbo :o

Have you done the conversion yourself ?? Any reason for leaving off the turbo ??

I'm about to start my 300tdi conversion and probably have a million and one questions I could throw your way :angel:

[manic]

Without the turbo :o

oh yea.. nice 300di!

[reubsrover]

Have you done the conversion yourself ?? Any reason for leaving off the turbo ??

I'm about to start my 300tdi conversion and probably have a million and one questions I could throw your way :angel:

Despite the yellow fuel cap (don't know what else makes it look like a 300) it's a 200Di. I'll update an old thread of mine when I get a chance with a lot more detail and photos but to answer your questions Jerry the main reason was simplicity. I've never done anything like this before and wanted the project to be as simple as possible as I wanted to do the majority of the work. I've also had gearbox trouble in the past (I'm getting well practiced, the box has been out three times in two years of ownership) and didn't really want to stress the driveline any more.

They were the main reasons but I'm certainly open to putting it back on in the future.

As for questions send them along I'd love to help out if I can.

[gromit]

Despite the yellow fuel cap (don't know what else makes it look like a 300) it's a 200Di. I'll update an old thread of mine when I get a chance with a lot more detail and photos but to answer your questions Jerry the main reason was simplicity. I've never done anything like this before and wanted the project to be as simple as possible as I wanted to do the majority of the work. I've also had gearbox trouble in the past (I'm getting well practiced, the box has been out three times in two years of ownership) and didn't really want to stress the driveline any more.

They were the main reasons but I'm certainly open to putting it back on in the future.

As for questions send them along I'd love to help out if I can.

I'm interested in the engineering approval and any mods you had to make because of the engine swap.
I've been offered a 200Tdi motor and I considered it but wasn't sure about other mods to brakes etc. that might be required.

I'm told if it's within 10% of the original weight (and power ?) the brakes don't have to be upgraded and also that because it's a Land Rover motor going into another Land Rover that makes things a bit easier.


Colin

[reubsrover]

Give me a day or so and I'll let you know exactly what transpires hopefully with some more photos.

[reubsrover]

What transpired was a wasted day trying to work out the why the alternator wasn't charging before finally tanking it to an auto elec to find out the bushes were not just worn but broken. A new one ordered but I also noticed the front left wheel locked on again (only one though not all four).

Same cure, open the bleed crew and brake fluid that was obviously under pressure came out (this was after driving for one mile). So does anyone have any idea what could be causing this pressure build up?

Ideas would be great as I start a new job on Wednesday and am hoping to get this drivable.

Thanks for your help so far.

[Blknight.aus]

yep, check your pedal freeplay.

if you have no or insufficient free play on the MC rod the fill port will not open on retraction which will keep any fluid in the system locked in place.