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View Full Version : Who knows trailer brake controllers?



AnD3rew
9th November 2012, 09:38 PM
Getting some other stuff installed by an auto electrician and I don't have a trailer with electric brakes as yet but looking at camper trailers so thought I might as well get one installed while I am at it and the electrician is here.

Looking around the the tekonsha ones seem to be the most popular but there are three main ones, the prodigy is about $80 and the p2 and p3 are around $140. But I can't figure out the main differences and why you would buy one over the other?

I will most likely never tow a large van, probably just camper trailers. Maybe hire a car trailer from time to time.

Which one should I buy?

russ55
9th November 2012, 09:46 PM
Not all can be mounted horizontal.

Not all are easy to adjust. Some are semi-auto.

There's a bit of sense in paying extra if you're towing a larger van. I'd do a search, then check the caravan forums.

Franrick
9th November 2012, 09:57 PM
Hi Andrew,
I tow a camper that wieghs 660kg dry. Time we get on the road we are around a ton.
I use a Tekonsha Prodigy and it does the job well. We tow on the highway as well as some serious off road stuff.
I find I rarely need to have any input into the unit unless were on really steep downhill stuff and I need more control over the trailer brakes to stop them locking up and sliding.
On a D3 or later they are extremely easy to fit. There is an adaptor plug just under your dash and you purchase an adaptor cable from Tekonsha. Plug one end into Tekonsha and the other end into the plug under your dash. It's that easy. You can set it up yourself in 5mins with almost no tools.
Cheers, Rick.

sniegy
9th November 2012, 09:58 PM
AnD3rew,

For the extra $60 your best bet is buy the P3. It is the knees bees of units.
You may never use all of the functions it has but it is a good unit.

Other side of the coin.....

I use a RedArc remote head unit, I only tow a camper trailer & no longer tow in excess of 2.5 - 3 tonne.
The only disadvantage is they are not a progressive brake controller as is the P3.
What that means is in an emergency situation if you have a Progressive unit, when you apply the brakes harder & harder the sensor
in the unit then also applies more voltage as required.
The RedArc unit is a solid state unit, set it once & that is all you get.

My other point is make sure the auto sparky knows what he is doing.
There is a post on the forum specifically for the D3 make sure he reads it :-)
If you are in Melbourne I could help out.

HTH
Cheers

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

AnD3rew
9th November 2012, 10:00 PM
Thanks sniegy, I am in Sydney, but thanks for the offer. I will see if I can find the thread, but what mistake could the sparky make?

sniegy
9th November 2012, 10:01 PM
Hi Andrew,
I tow a camper that wieghs 660kg dry. Time we get on the road we are around a ton.
I use a Tekonsha Prodigy and it does the job well. We tow on the highway as well as some serious off road stuff.
I find I rarely need to have any input into the unit unless were on really steep downhill stuff and I need more control over the trailer brakes to stop them locking up and sliding.
On a D3 or later they are extremely easy to fit. There is an adaptor plug just under your dash and you purchase an adaptor cable from Tekonsha. Plug one end into Tekonsha and the other end into the plug under your dash. It's that easy. You can set it up yourself in 5mins with almost no tools.
Cheers, Rick.

Hey Rick,
Any chance you take a photo of this "plug"
I have virtually taken apart a D3 to find this elusive plug only to find they aren't part of our loom for export.
If you are in the states then fine it is in the loom.

Cheers

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

sniegy
9th November 2012, 10:06 PM
Thanks sniegy, I am in Sydney, but thanks for the offer. I will see if I can find the thread, but what mistake could the sparky make?

First mistake would be the color of the wiring is not an exact match for Australia.
Second mistake is not picking up that there are 2 park light circuits & if this is not modified then when lights are on auto & you travel
under a tunnel, this will lock on your brakes.

I have seen many attempts to wire in ETB's & in the end I normally just strip it & start from the beginning.
Have a read of the post & if you need to ask questions.

Cheers

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

AnD3rew
9th November 2012, 10:32 PM
Hi Andrew,
I tow a camper that wieghs 660kg dry. Time we get on the road we are around a ton.
I use a Tekonsha Prodigy and it does the job well. We tow on the highway as well as some serious off road stuff.
I find I rarely need to have any input into the unit unless were on really steep downhill stuff and I need more control over the trailer brakes to stop them locking up and sliding.
On a D3 or later they are extremely easy to fit. There is an adaptor plug just under your dash and you purchase an adaptor cable from Tekonsha. Plug one end into Tekonsha and the other end into the plug under your dash. It's that easy. You can set it up yourself in 5mins with almost no tools.
Cheers, Rick.

That would be awesome if true, but sniegy raises doubts. As he said if you can take a photo and post so I can check to see if it is there

Graeme
10th November 2012, 06:56 AM
That would be awesome if true, but sniegy raises doubts. As he said if you can take a photo and post so I can check to see if it is there

Even if the connector exists there is still the problem of the 2nd park light circuit using the brake wire at the trailer socket.

AnD3rew
10th November 2012, 02:46 PM
First mistake would be the color of the wiring is not an exact match for Australia.
Second mistake is not picking up that there are 2 park light circuits & if this is not modified then when lights are on auto & you travel
under a tunnel, this will lock on your brakes.

I have seen many attempts to wire in ETB's & in the end I normally just strip it & start from the beginning.
Have a read of the post & if you need to ask questions.

Cheers

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

I've tried searching but can't seem to find the post. Any chance you can provide a link to it.

Chaser
10th November 2012, 03:51 PM
There are about a million posts in the other thread. this is a potential minefield for a sparky that isn't up on Landys. I got my P3 wired up at Graeme Coopers Landy specialist at St Peters. They knew exactly what to do and quite often fix other landy 'specialist' mistakes. I got quoted approx $700+ at Purnell Landy and they wanted a wiring diagram of the trailer - WTF!? Coppers did it for just under half that I recall. I also have a unique wiring position on the top right of the dash as I don't want the unit there 24/7 - only when I tow. Works a treat!

sniegy
10th November 2012, 04:50 PM
Search - Electric trailer brake wired photo

It was the first thread.

Cheers

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

SBD4
10th November 2012, 05:13 PM
you wanted to make him work for it didn't you Pete? :D

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/51521-electric-trailer-brake-wired-photo.html

Shane 3157
10th November 2012, 05:59 PM
Hey Rick,
Any chance you take a photo of this "plug"
I have virtually taken apart a D3 to find this elusive plug only to find they aren't part of our loom for export.
If you are in the states then fine it is in the loom.

Cheers

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

I'm with you Pete. I've been researching this illusive plug (plug and play) option on my 2010 RRS for some 12 months leading up to the delivery of our caravan. In short, it doesn't exist in Aus. I have also read your posts on wiring up D3's for trailer breaks leading up to the arrival of the van. The information is great, thankyou, very well done!
Unfortunately I ran out of time and thought I'd take my vehicle to the local Landrover Dealer, they know what they doing I kept telling myself......wrong!! The wiring diagram (attached) supplied by Landrover Aust to the installing LR tech has the compulsory diode in bum about, stopping the brake signal to the Brake Control Unit. I have brought this to his notice, hopefully it's passed on to LR Australia.
Hope this works, I'm only a beginner at this forum stuff

Cheers Shane

sniegy
10th November 2012, 06:01 PM
you wanted to make him work for it didn't you Pete? :D

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/51521-electric-trailer-brake-wired-photo.html

No, Well maybe :-)I can't copy & paste certain things in "Forum Runner" on my iPad.
Sometimes a pain the behind.

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

sniegy
10th November 2012, 06:05 PM
I'm with you Pete. I've been researching this illusive plug (plug and play) option on my 2010 RRS for some 12 months leading up to the delivery of our caravan. In short, it doesn't exist in Aus. I have also read your posts on wiring up D3's for trailer breaks leading up to the arrival of the van. The information is great, thankyou, very well done!
Unfortunately I ran out of time and thought I'd take my vehicle to the local Landrover Dealer, they know what they doing I kept telling myself......wrong!! The wiring diagram (attached) supplied by Landrover Aust to the installing LR tech has the compulsory diode in bum about, stopping the brake signal to the Brake Control Unit. I have brought this to his notice, hopefully it's passed on to LR Australia.
Hope this works, I'm only a beginner at this forum stuff

Cheers Shane

Welcome mate,
Any questions feel free to ask, we are all very helpful.
Again if you are in Melb, happy to lend a hand & show you how things come apart, work etc.

Cheers

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

Franrick
10th November 2012, 06:57 PM
Sorry guys, can't help with a photo. I am in a D2 and just about to wire it up and came across the D3 adaptor while browsing the Disco CD.
I thought it might be usefull but it seems it's not on Aussie vehicles.
Sorry about that.
I wired my D1 at home. took just over an hour and will do the same for the D2.
Cheers, Rick.

sniegy
10th November 2012, 09:50 PM
That will explain it Franrick.:D

AnD3rew
11th November 2012, 08:15 AM
Bloody annoying though that they would include such a brilliant idea for the US market but deem us not worthy to include it for us.

Shane 3157
11th November 2012, 09:24 AM
Welcome mate,
Any questions feel free to ask, we are all very helpful.
Again if you are in Melb, happy to lend a hand & show you how things come apart, work etc.

Cheers

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

Thankyou Pete, You might be sorry with your offer, I've got a few question boiling around in my head at the moment. You can blame Tim (I think it was) from Traxide for dobbing you in, "just go on the aulro site and look for sniegy" he said.
What a great, proffessionally made dual battery kit they make, with all the supporting installation info, can't fault the product in any way.

Cheers Shane

Pedro_The_Swift
11th November 2012, 09:36 AM
I you are going to get a sparky to do it,,
dont forget about a charging cable from the battery to an anderson plug at the back,,
If he is going to run one cable-----;)

Nomad9
11th November 2012, 02:40 PM
Hi Andrew,
I have a Tekonsha Prodigy P3, I wired up the unit from the trailer wiring at the back left hand corner of the vehicle. Hooked directly into the wiring, all soldered joints and I've had no problems at all. Only downside is you have to run the wiring the length of the vehicle. Worked for me. I mounted the Tekonsha unit above my left knee on the plastic cover.

tonic
11th November 2012, 03:07 PM
I have a Redarc unit in me Deefa for a 1t camper trailer. I like it because it only has a small knob and light in the dash. The unit is in behind the dash. No bulky thing to hit your knee on where I have seen other brands fitted under the dash. It works well.

SBD4
11th November 2012, 04:59 PM
Bloody annoying though that they would include such a brilliant idea for the US market but deem us not worthy to include it for us.

Absolutely agree with that! A car capable of towing 3500KG but only 750KG un-braked - it's obvious that a brake controller has to be fitted, why not provide an interface as a standard feature? Why make people go through all the hassle to splice it in them selves only to have a high degree of risk of introducing faults? Sheesh!